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#52974 How can i find my thermostat and

Posted by Sports-car-list on 06 March 2012 - 03:38 PM

:happy feet:

Finally got 'er done! Talked to a former co-worker and he said you gotta unbolt the pump as mentioned in the previous post. The Ford WSM isn't detailed enough.

Safely raise vehicle, secure rear wheels, jackstands etc.
Drain coolant, a red petcock can be found the driver side lower radiator. I used a small rubber hose (maybe 3/8"?) to attach to the drain to run through to my catchpan.
Remove the splash shield on the passenger side wheel well that covers the crank pulley.
With the use a 13mm wrench/belt tensioner tool release the slack on the belt and remove.
Undo the 3 bolts (10mm) on the power steering pump. The top left one will remain with the pump whereas it cannot be completely removed because it is obstructed by a line. Top right bolt will be removed. The lower bolt can be taken off of with a small box wrench.
Move the pump and reservior assembly to the side. (2006 models that do no have ABS will have addtional room where as the ABS module is in the vicinity here) you can also unbolt (8mm) the filler neck for the washer fluid reservior for some more space.
You have access now to the thermostat housing assembly.
Remove the two coolant hoses. A plier hose clamp spring loaded tool is VERY recommended here!
Now you can remove the 3 thermostat bolts (8mm). The top one on the passenger side can be accessed from the top. The two driver side bolts (top and bottom) can be accessed from under the vehicle. This is the only useful step from the Ford book. :do what:
Remove housing.
I flushed some more distilled water through the system. I undid the upper hose and flushed distilled water through the block.
Installation is reverse of removal. Ha, again from Ford manual.
Before you add in the new coolant/water mix, open the relief valve. It is a small platic capscrew located by the brake master cylinder. I think on AT models the trans dispstick is in that area too (not sure since mine is an MT).
Fill with coolant, eventually some will start to come out of that valve.
Run engine, get up to temperature, run heat on high, inspect for leaks and check coolant level.

I wish I had taken some pictures, but hope this helps.

Excellent instructions by Dyoct, worked good for me also, as well as aspen007 mentioning that (don't need to unhook the power steering hoses) and aspen007 said "I highly recommend you replace the original hose clamps with adjustable hose clamps. It makes the reassembly a ton easier." Is also good advice. Any how since I did not see any pictures on the internet relating to this process and Doyct mentioning, he wished he took some pictures. I figured I may as well take some pictures so people can get a visual on the thermostats location etc. Also helpfull to buy the new hose clamps before taking the car apart, I did'nt have new clamps so i had to pick them up the next day. Here are a few pictures, if you want to see all the rest of the pictures, 28 of them you can check them out here. http://www.sports-ca...mostat-replace/

Attached Files


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#61823 Radio/Clock light is dim or out, but will brighten when pushed against

Posted by cirrus1965 on 18 November 2012 - 12:34 PM

Hi Folks! :doh:

I too had this problem with my Ford Fusion 2007 Radio display dimming out after 5 years. The problem is very Real (as some people on this thread seem to imply that we are imagining this problem), and the solution is very Simple!

I've found the solution from a "YouTube" video with this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CAdvuenTcc

It is for a "2007 Ford Explorer dim radio fix", but it is the same radio model (and problem) that I've got, and I'm sure the same problem you folks all have with your radios.

So here are the facts about this problem:
  • This kind of electronic trouble, which usually starts showing up gradually with time, are mostly due to "cold" solderings on one of the radio motherboards. (a hot soldering is when both parts are sufficiently hot enough before applying the tin to make a hard bond).
  • The display starts fading gradually, and when you press on the display bezel it comes back: well this is simply because you press on the "cold" solder parts and make a temporary contact again, but it doesn't/won't last.
  • I've noticed that this problem deals with the bigger resistors 'surface mount' types. My explanation is that during assembly, the soldering machine doesn't put enough lead/tin in the soldering joints, and the repeated cold-hot seasons make it weak, and the electrical contact wears down, lowering the available voltage to the display filaments.
  • There are 6 of these resistors and you simply need to "refresh" their solder joints with a soldering tool and a bit of 'tin'. The process is easy.
  • Those resistors are located behind the faceplate of the radio. So simply remove the radio from the dashboard (other youtube videos give directions on how to do this), unscrew the face plate (two black screws from the top, and two from the bottom of the face plate), and when you flip it back, you'll notice the big black rectangular resistors in the middle area; two on the left and four in-line on the right.
  • Those resistors actually give the voltage to the very-very small lines that traverse the display horizontally inside, which is what drives the fluorescent intensity on each segment. Fixing the resistor contacts make the proper voltage go across those 9 filament lines within the display.
Ford Radio Board Resistors
Ford Radio Display Driver Filaments


So, here you are my friends! Finally a solution I've been searching for quite some time. Please watch this video, and you'll get your fully-lit display back again, and save lots of $$$.

Cheers, and be well.
cirrus1965
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#76516 Ford Fusion with a few visual mods (black vinyl roof, tint, tail lights...)

Posted by tonyd9448 on 06 May 2014 - 11:42 AM

This is my CPO new to me 2013 Ford Fusion. I'm coming from an 08 Tundra, and a 2012 Genesis Coupe. I had to downsize/streamline due to my wife being pregnant with out first child.

 

So far I like the car, there are a few things that annoy the heck out of me:

Sync won't automatically go to bluetooth audio when I turn the car on, I have to tell it to.

A few rattles and vibrations from the interior that I'm slowly finding and taking care of.

Had to unbolt all of the front body panels in order to get them all lined up properly....fit and finish is pretty sub par

 

That being said, I do like this car. The interior is nice, comfy seats, ride is good, exterior styling is nice, the little 1.6L Ecoboost has enough power for me (says my wife) but still gets good gas milage.

 

Here are a few pics of what I've done to my car so far.

Black gloss vinyl roof wrap (DIY)

Lamin-x tail light tint around exterior of tail light housing

Black 17" OEM wheels (looking for new wheels to swap when it's time to buy tires)

5% tint all around

De-badged the trunk lid

 

20140419_1733341_zpse95b65a8.jpg

20140419_173229_zpsd0e6a269.jpg

20140419_173320_zps86bfe1bd.jpg


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#98210 2016 Fusion SPITS oil out of oil filler hole

Posted by akirby on 20 February 2017 - 12:21 AM

As fordtech pointed out over on BOF it's perfectly normal. You shouldn't remove the filler cap while the engine is running.
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#77541 SYNC issue

Posted by akirby on 18 June 2014 - 09:38 AM

 

Yours is a special case, she just didn't like the way you were barking out commands and is giving you the silent treatment.

 

That's entirely possible.  I may called her a bitch a few times when she wouldn't recognize "USB"..........


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#74583 Engine splash guard

Posted by BlueOval2010 on 16 February 2014 - 02:51 PM

and lets us not forget the most important function of the engine shield - it prevents the sockets, wrenches, and dropped nuts and bolts from falling harmlessly to the garage floor where we could have easily picked them up!


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#52406 2010 premature rear brake pad wear

Posted by swandog on 23 February 2012 - 11:24 AM

The Problem:
:banghead: I have a 2010 fusion 48k miles I-4 Auto with rear brake premature wear problem. The original pads were worn to the metal pad at 40k, so I changed pads and rotors.... no better...the average mpg read 27.0 so I didn't give much thought, but i did notice when I let off the gas the car would slow down. It almost felt like the transmission was slowing the car....

The fix:
I pulled the rear tires off then the calipers looking at the contact point of the pad to the rotor....The pads were basically glued to the rotor: drivers side more so than the passenger. So unbolted the brake shoe sides to investigate deeper...what I found was as the pads get closer to the center the tighter they got.... so I proceeded to remove material from the ears of the brake pads....The pads now side with ease. You want those pads to retract with the brake pedal is released....

Now I do not here the clunk when I get into the car after it sat in the garage overnight....Also the average MPG reads 30.0 + I do 90% highway driving.....And the car doesn't slow down after I let off of the gas.

I hope this helps...

Just in time $4+ gallon of gas.....LOL :drool:
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#24424 New Mods

Posted by Angelod on 06 April 2010 - 05:56 PM

Hello all,
Completed some front end mods today. Installed custom grille and Magnetbra. I'll add pic for all to see. I also installed red and black wheelskin on steering wheel but no pic of that. Have more plans but taking my time. Really enjoying the Sport. Loved my 06 SE but really love the new Sport. So much more fun to drive.
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#98331 Wipers colliding with each other

Posted by Titanium_2016 on 24 February 2017 - 07:01 PM

So I decided to tackle this myself with the aid of this fantastic PDF I found online. Admins I hope you don't mind me sharing this link but it may come in useful to those that have the same issue as I experienced. 

 

http://www.carlite.c...Replacement.pdf

 

I bought a 2 leg small jaw puller, wipers came off easily, completed the procedure and fingers crossed everything seems normal again.

 

Thanks all for the input!

 

Danny


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#97088 Trunk Gun Mount

Posted by indifferent on 22 December 2016 - 10:57 AM

Pretty ingenious.  As a Veteran and a supporter of the right to carry i see nothing wrong with this.  He isn't storing it loaded and i don't see loose magazines rattling around in his trunk.  This is no different than if kept it in a gun case a toted it around in his trunk.  Terrorist...Really... They are more likely to rent a uhaul and plow you down while you wait to see Santa with your family by the Christmas tree off Main St.  I personally have no need to tote around an AR in an easy to access area but to each their own.  


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#96339 How I updated the speakers in my 2015 Fusion SE

Posted by markwiz on 11 November 2016 - 10:44 AM

Here is a blog post where I explain how I upgraded my speakers in my 2015 Ford Fusion SE. 

http://mrwizstechblog.blogspot.com/

 

I hope this helps if you plan to do the same.


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#94163 What do you use to clean your touch screen?

Posted by hermans on 18 July 2016 - 03:28 PM

Eye glass cleaner and a eye glass cleaning towel from the eye doctors office. I keep it in the sunglass holder.


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#93516 2017 Ford Fusion Crash Test Video

Posted by mark0006 on 17 June 2016 - 12:04 PM

2017 Ford Fusion Crash Test 
 

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#85104 Just passed 100,000 miles on FFH, anyone else?

Posted by jeff_h on 13 April 2015 - 05:41 PM

Today was the day my old 2010 FFH hit 200k and still looks and runs great!

 

2010_FFH_200k_inset_zpsatigtbef.jpg


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#82160 2013 Fusion SE in dark impact blue....

Posted by pronkie1 on 29 December 2013 - 10:50 AM

Here's our after new wheels installed at America's Tire eariler this year......


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#74110 Throttle Body Extended Warranty - Program 13N03

Posted by akirby on 29 January 2014 - 06:00 PM

Customer Satisfaction Program 13N03

 

Ford has extended the warranty on throttle bodies to 10 yrs. 150K miles from original purchase.

 

If you have already paid for a Throttle body service or replacement you may be eligible for reimbursement and must submit receipts to a Ford dealer by July 31, 2014.

 

If your vehicle is past 10 yrs or 150K miles the warranty is extended to January 31, 2015.

 

The extended warranty transfers to all new owners.

 

If you have concerns contact Ford at 866-436-7332.

 

 

It doesn't say which vehicles are covered but this was sent to a 2010 Fusion owner.


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#54385 Not your ordinary fusion

Posted by cocoloyespanol on 09 April 2012 - 07:25 PM

Nineball and billm who said I just added springs?? For your info I actually did the steeda springs with bilstein shocks and struts and im pretty sure even with the springs the stock setup would be fine. You also mention proper length and then say coilovers, using drop springs will give you a more precise length all around instead of coilovers not being perfectly even. If i wanted to autocross i probably wouldnt have bought a fusion either. Now people who cut srpings may be ghetto but lowering a car doesnt make it ghetto. I dont mind criticism but please actually know what your talking about first.
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#54254 Not your ordinary fusion

Posted by 3 point 5 on 06 April 2012 - 11:00 PM

I still don't understand why people lower their cars. Imo it makes the cars look ghetto. If you do a full suspension with quality coilovers and you autocross then I understand. But throwing springs on it is just plain stupid. Those rims are absolutely horrible. 5 years from now you are going to look at those pictures and ask yourself "was I on drugs?".


Wow!!! way to be positive... I dont like the wheels either but I dont understand you reasoning for the lowering comment. I did mine because I like the stiffness and look of having my car lowered. I would like to hear a reasonable answer as to why it is "plain stupid" to put springs on a car. What are you 70 or something? Sorry man but not everyone likes how there car looks when in stock form. You must not be into custome cars. There is such a thing as to much wheel gap...

SOOOO this looks ghetto???

Posted Image
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#35912 What DON'T you like about your Fusion?

Posted by timwil56 on 31 December 2010 - 10:10 PM

I have the 8-way power driver's seat and there are too many positions to choose from. I have to make so many choices to fill the six disk CD changer. My friends always want me to drive because they say my car is so comfortable to ride in and has so much room. After 19 months I'm tired of people commenting how good my car looks. Other than that I love my Fusion.
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#25597 Fuse box

Posted by ninjasenses on 26 April 2010 - 01:29 AM

No worries. I had to do exactly what bbf2530 said; get under there with a flashlight.. It's not as readily visible as on most other cars I've owned. Squeeze the two clips on the sides of the cover to release it. (See att'd. pic).

Pics att'd: fuse box location, cover off and one of just the cover for illustrative purposes. Mine's an MKZ but there's no difference here


Thanks so much for the quick response and help!! My sync wasnt working, I just pulled the fuse and put it back in, started it up and it was working.

For anyone else having trouble heres some more hints:

Open the driverside door
Sit outside of the car
put a flashlight inside and angle it towards the upper left part under your dash
it is not visible from the outside, the fuse box is pretty much located behind where the dimming controls are
youll pretty much only be able to stick your head and one arm in there to look around
after that just look for the fuse box cover that droids1 posted
squeeze the two clips on the sides of the cover to release it

and if you havent pulled a fuse before:

there are white clips on the inside of the fuse cover
they kinda resemble alligator clips
place them around the fuse you want and pull it out

hope this helps everyone, its not very intuitive and thanks again to droids1!!
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