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#52974 How can i find my thermostat and

Posted by Sports-car-list on 06 March 2012 - 03:38 PM

:happy feet:

Finally got 'er done! Talked to a former co-worker and he said you gotta unbolt the pump as mentioned in the previous post. The Ford WSM isn't detailed enough.

Safely raise vehicle, secure rear wheels, jackstands etc.
Drain coolant, a red petcock can be found the driver side lower radiator. I used a small rubber hose (maybe 3/8"?) to attach to the drain to run through to my catchpan.
Remove the splash shield on the passenger side wheel well that covers the crank pulley.
With the use a 13mm wrench/belt tensioner tool release the slack on the belt and remove.
Undo the 3 bolts (10mm) on the power steering pump. The top left one will remain with the pump whereas it cannot be completely removed because it is obstructed by a line. Top right bolt will be removed. The lower bolt can be taken off of with a small box wrench.
Move the pump and reservior assembly to the side. (2006 models that do no have ABS will have addtional room where as the ABS module is in the vicinity here) you can also unbolt (8mm) the filler neck for the washer fluid reservior for some more space.
You have access now to the thermostat housing assembly.
Remove the two coolant hoses. A plier hose clamp spring loaded tool is VERY recommended here!
Now you can remove the 3 thermostat bolts (8mm). The top one on the passenger side can be accessed from the top. The two driver side bolts (top and bottom) can be accessed from under the vehicle. This is the only useful step from the Ford book. :do what:
Remove housing.
I flushed some more distilled water through the system. I undid the upper hose and flushed distilled water through the block.
Installation is reverse of removal. Ha, again from Ford manual.
Before you add in the new coolant/water mix, open the relief valve. It is a small platic capscrew located by the brake master cylinder. I think on AT models the trans dispstick is in that area too (not sure since mine is an MT).
Fill with coolant, eventually some will start to come out of that valve.
Run engine, get up to temperature, run heat on high, inspect for leaks and check coolant level.

I wish I had taken some pictures, but hope this helps.

Excellent instructions by Dyoct, worked good for me also, as well as aspen007 mentioning that (don't need to unhook the power steering hoses) and aspen007 said "I highly recommend you replace the original hose clamps with adjustable hose clamps. It makes the reassembly a ton easier." Is also good advice. Any how since I did not see any pictures on the internet relating to this process and Doyct mentioning, he wished he took some pictures. I figured I may as well take some pictures so people can get a visual on the thermostats location etc. Also helpfull to buy the new hose clamps before taking the car apart, I did'nt have new clamps so i had to pick them up the next day. Here are a few pictures, if you want to see all the rest of the pictures, 28 of them you can check them out here. http://www.sports-ca...mostat-replace/

Attached Files


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#61823 Radio/Clock light is dim or out, but will brighten when pushed against

Posted by cirrus1965 on 18 November 2012 - 12:34 PM

Hi Folks! :doh:

I too had this problem with my Ford Fusion 2007 Radio display dimming out after 5 years. The problem is very Real (as some people on this thread seem to imply that we are imagining this problem), and the solution is very Simple!

I've found the solution from a "YouTube" video with this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CAdvuenTcc

It is for a "2007 Ford Explorer dim radio fix", but it is the same radio model (and problem) that I've got, and I'm sure the same problem you folks all have with your radios.

So here are the facts about this problem:
  • This kind of electronic trouble, which usually starts showing up gradually with time, are mostly due to "cold" solderings on one of the radio motherboards. (a hot soldering is when both parts are sufficiently hot enough before applying the tin to make a hard bond).
  • The display starts fading gradually, and when you press on the display bezel it comes back: well this is simply because you press on the "cold" solder parts and make a temporary contact again, but it doesn't/won't last.
  • I've noticed that this problem deals with the bigger resistors 'surface mount' types. My explanation is that during assembly, the soldering machine doesn't put enough lead/tin in the soldering joints, and the repeated cold-hot seasons make it weak, and the electrical contact wears down, lowering the available voltage to the display filaments.
  • There are 6 of these resistors and you simply need to "refresh" their solder joints with a soldering tool and a bit of 'tin'. The process is easy.
  • Those resistors are located behind the faceplate of the radio. So simply remove the radio from the dashboard (other youtube videos give directions on how to do this), unscrew the face plate (two black screws from the top, and two from the bottom of the face plate), and when you flip it back, you'll notice the big black rectangular resistors in the middle area; two on the left and four in-line on the right.
  • Those resistors actually give the voltage to the very-very small lines that traverse the display horizontally inside, which is what drives the fluorescent intensity on each segment. Fixing the resistor contacts make the proper voltage go across those 9 filament lines within the display.
Ford Radio Board Resistors
Ford Radio Display Driver Filaments


So, here you are my friends! Finally a solution I've been searching for quite some time. Please watch this video, and you'll get your fully-lit display back again, and save lots of $$$.

Cheers, and be well.
cirrus1965
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#76516 Ford Fusion with a few visual mods (black vinyl roof, tint, tail lights...)

Posted by tonyd9448 on 06 May 2014 - 11:42 AM

This is my CPO new to me 2013 Ford Fusion. I'm coming from an 08 Tundra, and a 2012 Genesis Coupe. I had to downsize/streamline due to my wife being pregnant with out first child.

 

So far I like the car, there are a few things that annoy the heck out of me:

Sync won't automatically go to bluetooth audio when I turn the car on, I have to tell it to.

A few rattles and vibrations from the interior that I'm slowly finding and taking care of.

Had to unbolt all of the front body panels in order to get them all lined up properly....fit and finish is pretty sub par

 

That being said, I do like this car. The interior is nice, comfy seats, ride is good, exterior styling is nice, the little 1.6L Ecoboost has enough power for me (says my wife) but still gets good gas milage.

 

Here are a few pics of what I've done to my car so far.

Black gloss vinyl roof wrap (DIY)

Lamin-x tail light tint around exterior of tail light housing

Black 17" OEM wheels (looking for new wheels to swap when it's time to buy tires)

5% tint all around

De-badged the trunk lid

 

20140419_1733341_zpse95b65a8.jpg

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20140419_173320_zps86bfe1bd.jpg


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#99778 New Exhaust set-up! (Video)

Posted by BlackBetty on 04 May 2017 - 06:09 AM

What do you guys think? I gotta say I Love it!


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#98210 2016 Fusion SPITS oil out of oil filler hole

Posted by akirby on 20 February 2017 - 12:21 AM

As fordtech pointed out over on BOF it's perfectly normal. You shouldn't remove the filler cap while the engine is running.
  • timwil56, WWWPerfA_ZN0W, Frank F and 1 other like this


#77541 SYNC issue

Posted by akirby on 18 June 2014 - 09:38 AM

 

Yours is a special case, she just didn't like the way you were barking out commands and is giving you the silent treatment.

 

That's entirely possible.  I may called her a bitch a few times when she wouldn't recognize "USB"..........


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#74583 Engine splash guard

Posted by BlueOval2010 on 16 February 2014 - 02:51 PM

and lets us not forget the most important function of the engine shield - it prevents the sockets, wrenches, and dropped nuts and bolts from falling harmlessly to the garage floor where we could have easily picked them up!


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#54385 Not your ordinary fusion

Posted by cocoloyespanol on 09 April 2012 - 07:25 PM

Nineball and billm who said I just added springs?? For your info I actually did the steeda springs with bilstein shocks and struts and im pretty sure even with the springs the stock setup would be fine. You also mention proper length and then say coilovers, using drop springs will give you a more precise length all around instead of coilovers not being perfectly even. If i wanted to autocross i probably wouldnt have bought a fusion either. Now people who cut srpings may be ghetto but lowering a car doesnt make it ghetto. I dont mind criticism but please actually know what your talking about first.
  • BlackBetty, TTFusion408, Pyzik and 1 other like this


#54254 Not your ordinary fusion

Posted by 3 point 5 on 06 April 2012 - 11:00 PM

I still don't understand why people lower their cars. Imo it makes the cars look ghetto. If you do a full suspension with quality coilovers and you autocross then I understand. But throwing springs on it is just plain stupid. Those rims are absolutely horrible. 5 years from now you are going to look at those pictures and ask yourself "was I on drugs?".


Wow!!! way to be positive... I dont like the wheels either but I dont understand you reasoning for the lowering comment. I did mine because I like the stiffness and look of having my car lowered. I would like to hear a reasonable answer as to why it is "plain stupid" to put springs on a car. What are you 70 or something? Sorry man but not everyone likes how there car looks when in stock form. You must not be into custome cars. There is such a thing as to much wheel gap...

SOOOO this looks ghetto???

Posted Image
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#52406 2010 premature rear brake pad wear

Posted by swandog on 23 February 2012 - 11:24 AM

The Problem:
:banghead: I have a 2010 fusion 48k miles I-4 Auto with rear brake premature wear problem. The original pads were worn to the metal pad at 40k, so I changed pads and rotors.... no better...the average mpg read 27.0 so I didn't give much thought, but i did notice when I let off the gas the car would slow down. It almost felt like the transmission was slowing the car....

The fix:
I pulled the rear tires off then the calipers looking at the contact point of the pad to the rotor....The pads were basically glued to the rotor: drivers side more so than the passenger. So unbolted the brake shoe sides to investigate deeper...what I found was as the pads get closer to the center the tighter they got.... so I proceeded to remove material from the ears of the brake pads....The pads now side with ease. You want those pads to retract with the brake pedal is released....

Now I do not here the clunk when I get into the car after it sat in the garage overnight....Also the average MPG reads 30.0 + I do 90% highway driving.....And the car doesn't slow down after I let off of the gas.

I hope this helps...

Just in time $4+ gallon of gas.....LOL :drool:
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#24424 New Mods

Posted by Angelod on 06 April 2010 - 05:56 PM

Hello all,
Completed some front end mods today. Installed custom grille and Magnetbra. I'll add pic for all to see. I also installed red and black wheelskin on steering wheel but no pic of that. Have more plans but taking my time. Really enjoying the Sport. Loved my 06 SE but really love the new Sport. So much more fun to drive.
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#100078 AC not working, pressure gauge maxed

Posted by akirby on 19 May 2017 - 10:24 AM

It indicates that you should take it to a mechanic with the proper equipment.


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#99852 150 mph with a 2.0 turbo diesel engine

Posted by andyross on 08 May 2017 - 09:20 AM

What I wonder about is why such big and strong cars are still being sold, if the speed is electronically limited?

 

Americans love their lawyers and suing large corporations!


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#99574 2014 2.0 Dealer Fuel Induction Service Now Faulty Fuel Pressure Reg & Vap...

Posted by sirtanon on 25 April 2017 - 12:00 PM

I agree with all the comments above.   Whichever dealer did this induction service to your car was very much in the wrong, both for suggesting/pushing it in the first place, and then for performing it at all.

 

They are 100% liable for the damage, and should be held responsible for the expense of repairing the damage, as well as covering any down-the-road damages that occur as a result, even if they are not apparent now.

 

Whether or not they accept initial responsibility and agree to cover the current repairs, if I were you, I would also call Ford corporate, or at least speak with a regional service manager, and advise them about what this dealer did, and see if you can get Ford to agree to either an extension of the warranty, or something in writing stating that they stipulate to potential further repair coverage, should additional failures as a result of the induction service they performed.


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#99567 2014 2.0 Dealer Fuel Induction Service Now Faulty Fuel Pressure Reg & Vap...

Posted by eGuru on 25 April 2017 - 08:31 AM

Whatever chemicals your dealer used for this unauthorized service probably caused your issues. They should pay for the fixes.


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#99319 Performance Upgrades/ Adding boost 1.6 ecoboost

Posted by akirby on 11 April 2017 - 04:16 PM

You're going to need to clarify this statement. Who's getting 60 mpg's with a 1.5L, 1.6L or 2.0L EcoBoost? My overall mpg's since I picked it up on 6/22/16 is 32.3.

 

Get your sarcasm detector fixed......


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#99149 suggestions to improve mpg

Posted by drolds1 on 05 April 2017 - 02:19 AM

Yes, "lazy" O2 sensors can affect your MPG and not necessarily trigger a CEL.  


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#98740 2017 LED headlights

Posted by drolds1 on 22 March 2017 - 01:51 AM

LED headlamps are standard on the Titanium, Platinum, and Sport and optional on the SE as part of a package.

 

Yes, the light is produced by LEDs.  Not to be confused with LED signature lighting.

 

2017 Fusion brochure.  Go to p.17

 

 

 

 


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#98718 Manual passenger door locks when battery is dead

Posted by thefoeyouknow on 21 March 2017 - 05:26 AM

And welcome one and all to today's episode of RTFM.


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#100013 Advanced (better) fuel economy

Posted by akirby on 17 May 2017 - 09:57 AM

I could go into a lengthy explanation why you're wrong but it's clear with your attitude that you're not capable of having a reasonable, logical discussion.

 

If you change your mind and wish to engage in such a discussion please start a new topic.   This one is done.


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