Hi everyone... First time poster. I am getting a P0456 code which says to change the evap canister purge valve. It takes a while to start the car too after filling it up with gas. I have the Chilton's manual for it but their revision date says 2/2013 for it and the pictures on the procedure look different than what's under my hood.
Does anyone know where that elusive purge valve is located? If you can post a picture, I would greatly appreciate it.
New to the forum andI have the same problem with my 2015 Titanium Ecoboost approx 50K Miles. I have CEL on, P1450 error code, Hard Starting/Stalling after refueling. I have already replaced the Purge valve with a new OEM part and cleared the P1450 Code.
I took the car and topped up the fuel tank and it was still hard to start and stalling. The CEL and P1450 returned on the drive home.
2017 Fusion Sport Owner
I get 21-23 City & 26-28 Highway
That 2.7 Twin is not a car to buy for MPG. I made the decision due to having a very short commute on a day to day basis. Those numbers are also as a daily driver with a slightly heavy foot.
I traded in my 2012 SEL for it ... TOTALLY different car!
When I purchased the vapor canister, I got it from Tasca Ford and it was only like $75 including shipping and it includes the purge valve. If your car actually stalls and both sensors have not been replaced, then I would start with the other sensor before you move on to the canister.
Does anyone have info on how to replace the canister purge valve.
This is the right part from what I'm understanding. My car is FWD. Should the canister be replaced as well? My fuel pressure sensor was replaced a couple of years ago but only improved the issue but never fixed it. Do you think this would fix the hard idling issues too?
The dealer replaced the :BU5Z-9F972-B (low pressure) and I replaced the other one (high pressure). I thought I had posted the part number in one of my previous posts, but cannot find it. Honestly, I am not sure exactly where the low pressure sensors sits. I was planning on replacing that one myself, but then the dealership covered it under warranty when they found the issue with it during my transmission replacement.
I do still also still get the stutter every once in a while and it is always shortly after having filled my tank. My best guess on this is that I did always top off my tank in the past before reading some comment on this thread about not doing that. I probably have some raw fuel stuck in the vapor canister (this is for what is called on board vapor recovery and the reason why most of the country is now disabling their Stage 2 vapor recovery systems at their fueling sites). I suspect that the computer only tries to purge the vapors from the canister shortly after you fill up. Those vapors are being directed into the engine so they can be burned through the combustion process. Having some raw fuel mixed in with the vapors may very well be "flooding" the engine which is then creating the stumble that we are seeing. There may also be other times when the computer decides to purge the canister, again possibly creating a stumble at idle. Personally, I had every intention of replacing my vapor canister. I ordered one in and was ready to replace it until I started reading through the workshop manuals. My car is AWD, so I have the entire axle assembly in the rear that sits directly over (under actually) the vapor canister. In order to replace the canister on my car, I would need to basically remove the entire rear sub-frame. Not something I wanted to tackle to try and prevent an occasional engine stumble. However, if your car is FWD only, it is a really simple task of disconnecting the lines, wiring, unbolting it from the car and sticking the new one in. Probably a 2 hour job for a first timer, 30 minutes for a trained technician. Again, I have not really studied the sequence of operation of the vapor canister (I know it is somewhere in the shop manual), but so this is all just a supposition based on the timing of the stumbles and other information that I have gathered.
For those that are following the thread. The fuel pressure sensor replacement seemed to drastically improve the issue with my car stalling from a cold start such as in the morning before going to work, however it never resolved the issue with the car stalling. I feel like there is still an issue with a stutter at low RPM. Sometimes if I accelerate it jerks forward. I've read that this could be issues with the fuel delivery to the car itself? I took my car to the dealership to get an oil change recently and I brought all this up. They did some tests. They did find that my battery was low and needed to be replaced however that had nothing to do with or help fix the issues I've been having with the car stalling. I went over to the gas station immediately and filled up with gas. It was very close to stalling, it never did but I could tell there was an engine issue. Normally it should hover just below 1k rpm but it would spike downward almost to 0 and then recover at a stutter. You could feel the car shake a bit as this is happening. I got it on video and i called the dealership back but they said that they couldn't do much until they could see it happen. That doesn't make any sense to me, but you know that's just them not wanting to deal with it for the rest of the day. It has been less frequent but that might just because I'm always aware of the potential after a fuel up that it could die and I purposely try to not stop until the car has ran for at least a few minutes. The car does seem to run better in sport mode. I do like my car a lot, but I feel like the engine isn't living up to its potential because of the issues I'm having.
Thanks for your help. I did read your previous post but must have missed the dealer replacing the other sensor.
Do you recall which one the dealer replaced (part #/location) vs. the one you tackled at the fuel rail?