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i am so glad i found this page, this easily saves hundreds of dollars thank you so much. ordering part as we speak

The connector on resistor looks perfectly fine (actually still looks brand new). I ended up replacing the blower motor only and its working perfectly now.

Pm sent. Thank you.

Great news! Glad the original showed up and worked first time, it can be a nightmare when something goes into theft mode.

Filed a lost parcel claim on Saturday. They found it Monday. Wasn't an issue until USPS was about to pay out some money. Installed the new cluster. Fired up the first time. Haven't had a problem since. Will let her run it a few days, and if the trend continues, will get it all pretty again and call it good. Automotive Circuit Solutions of Marshfield MO is the company who did the work for us. Definitely worth a shot if smacking the dash has become part of your car starting on a Ford Fusion!

You need to figure out if it is in theft mode, which it likely is. You cannot just drop in a programmed cluster while it is theft mode, it will not fix it if that is the case. The theft system looks at the key, the cluster and the module itself to decide what to do. Once it is tripped, it is not a simple task to get it out as you need a higher level scan tool to get into the modules. Remotely programming modules is not an exact science, there are lots of problems that can happen. Try and find someone local.

I'm sure it's the same part, I just can't find where they put it.

What's different? Ford lists the same part # sensor for over 1600 vehicles.

The folks who I took the cluster to are professionals. They know what they are doing. I think the current problem is that when I asked to get the old cluster bad while USPS searched for the lost replacement, they gave me the wrong "old" cluster, meaning someone else's. The shop had told me the old unit was in such bad shape, it would be cheaper, better, to buy new. They did so, programmed it, and USPS lost it. The old cluster they handed me was in much better shape than it should have been. I wasn't familiar enough with the old to know what damage was present, but the owner doesn't think this one was hers. Would the wrong cluster, not programmed to the car, do this? Have filed an insurance claim with USPS. Will buy another and press on.

This is gonna sound crazy but, I have a 2012 ford fusion with the 3.0 liter v6? Anyway the ac will stay on all day in park, but the second you shift out of park the ac quits. Put it back in park the ac will come back on . Actually the second you click the button on shifter the ac shuts off . You can push button on shifter and the ac will cycle on and off. Please help anyone. It's my wife's car and she hauls our 3 kiss around.

First thing I did was find videos and its obvious that the construction is entirely different. In the mean time I think my diagnosis of a bad connection is correct, I drove on a rough unpaved road to shake everything up and it has started working :).

The Lounge is for off-topic discussions, not for questions or discussion about the Fusion. Per the header at the top of the forum; Therefore, your question has been moved to the appropriate area.

The ambient temp sensor is located in the front behind the grille on the passenger's side. I doubt that the location on the Hybrid is any different from that of the gas-only version. See video.

The Welcome! section is intended for new members to introduce themselves, not for questions about the Fusion itself. Per the header at the top: In addition, you've also posted this question in another Forum section. Please don't create duplicate threads for the same topic. This topic is now closed, as it's a duplicate post as well as in a non-related section.

So i own a 2020 ford fusion hybrid titanium it comes with the sony 12 speaker system with supposed 390w Regular Amplifier. I purchased 2 pairs of Pioneer TS-A652C A-Series 6-1/2" Component Speakers for front and back doors also Pioneer TS-A879 A-Series 3-1/2" 2-Way Car Speakers for front and back centers, I will sound proof the 4 doors and also the trunk and add a JBL bass pro 12 it draws small amps 20 to be exact because going over 30 amps can cause a lot of issues . From all the research i have done because it is a Hybrid and adding a aftermarket Amp is a whole other ballgame. My question is adding 4ohm speakers to the system will it make my amp and head unit run hot or will they be ok thanks in advance Cheers!

Until now (2024). But the problem is minor, ambient temperature sensor is acting strange, like a bad connection. Problem is I can't find it. Hybrid looks much different than standard pictures.

Where is the ambient sensor on the 2017 hybrid version? It read -40 for a few minutes, then slowly started rising. It's up to 23 now instead of about 75. That seems to me like it's working but has a bad connection, hopefully just a loose plug. The hybrid looks quite different to videos of the standard version. I hope it's not buried too deep. :( Thanks, Ann-Marie

The blower motor is usually fine. It's the contacts in the connector that plug into the resistor that overheat and melt the housing, causing poor contact. That melted plastic can coat the resistor contacts, or cause oxidation. There is a connector repair kit that has a new connector with tighter connectors, and possibly better plastic that can stand the heat. The new connector does require cutting the old connector off (ONE lead at a time) and soldering to the new connector's pigtail. If you unplug the connector at the resistor, look at the connector to see if you see a melted connector. If so, it needs replacement. You MIGHT be able to get some extra life if you remove and look at the contacts in the resistor, and you can scrape off any melted plastic. I had 2011 Fusion SEL that started doing that. I bought a replacement resistor and the connector, but never got around to replacing it. I had cleaned the contacts and with some careful adjustments, it worked 99% of the time. I have since sold the car, but still have the parts. The connector is Motorcraft WPT-1285.

88 octane is bad but you don't care about a useless k&n filter? Run what the manual says to run. Highest octane is not always the best choice. Skip the k&n, they are more trouble than they are worth. Factory filter/airbox is more than able to flow all the air your engine will ever need.

I have a 2011 Fusion Hybrid with dual climate. My blower motor was shutting off randomly for a while and then just stopped working all together. I pulled it out, looked at it and put it back in. After reinstalling, it started working again without issues for a few weeks and then died again. I've seen people saying it's best to replace the blower motor AND the resistor at the same time. My only thing is I'm thinking my resistor is just fine. When it was blowing, it worked on all fan speeds. When it stopped blowing it didn't work on any fan speed. Also, looking under there I can see that the resistor has more than likely already been replaced at some point. The wires have splice connectors and the plug doesn't have any corrosion or burn marks whatsoever and looks just fine. Do you think I'm ok to replace JUST the blower motor? The resistor is another $155 and I'd rather not spend that money if it isn't necessary.

88 octane is garbage. It's more octane but has less btu's so you are gonna burn more. I wouldn't run that crap even in my lawnmower.

It's likely in theft mode along with whatever the original problems are. It's a 3000lb brick. You need to find someone that has dealer level scan tools to hopefully get it out of theft mode and then maybe you can flash the cluster to work. Messing with the cluster was a BAD idea, they have to be flashed to the car properly or theft mode just kills it dead.

It's used up. 200K miles on a hybrid is a gift, he should cherish the memories. It would be very cost restrictive to fix it.

So glad I found this forum before I took the car to a dealership. Spent about $30 to fix the problem. Thank you so much for this information.

Came over to give it another try. The antitheft light was blinking slowly, and the flashers were blinking. No crank. The electronics say there are zero miles until empty. This may be factual, knowing her... Any suggestions on what to look for in getting this thing started?