Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. Can you upload both the 4.4 and the 4.6?
  3. Yesterday
  4. I have the larger screen. I have the 2012 Ford Fusion SEL version. It has the large screen with navigation. The information below is from the Ford Website. I have to verify the actual version from the car itself. I did an update when I bought the car in 2021, but I don't think I upload the update log file to ford to acknowledge the update. I jusr recently did to a 2016 Ford Explorer I recently bought and did upload the log file. From the picture below I cannot tell what SW it is. SYNC GenerationSYNC 1 SYNC Current Version4.0.2 SYNC Updates Update Available4.6
  5. What version do you currently have installed and is it the large screen with Navigation or the small 2-line screen? Everything below applies to the small 2-line screen as I have no experience with the large screen: If you have 4.4, I would leave it alone. Version 4.6 takes away more than it gives you. If you have an iPhone, you will lose the ability to use Siri while connected to the car. I believe it also negatively affects similar functions on Android phones. The only positive thing I found about 4.6 is that it gives you a reboot function. So, if you have older than 4.4, I would look for 4.4 instead. Version 4.4 gives you song title and artist while streaming music as opposed to the generic “bluetooth streaming” on the display. I still have a download of 4.4 that I used in my former 2011 Mariner that should work. You are welcome to it if you want to give it a try. BE AWARE THAT IT IS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND THAT IF THERE IS ANY INCOMPATIBILITY OR OTHER ISSUE, YOU COULD BRICK YOUR SYSTEM. I have the 4.6 download too (same warning above apples).
  6. I was just checking the Ford website and also have the 4.6 for my 2012 Ford Fusion, but I don't see a link. It says contact the dealership. Did you find the update file?
  7. Last week
  8. The quality of quick struts has fallen off a cliff. I would buy all the individual parts and have them built using quality parts. SUre it will be far more expensive, but you will regret quick struts when they crap out after a year.
  9. You've already posted this in another sub-forum. Please don't start another, separate thread for the same topic. This thread is now closed.
  10. From what I’ve seen online my best bet might be to try to take the fitting off this hose and put it on a new piece of hose. This is just ridiculous how difficult this is.
  11. OK sorry to be that guy that signs up for Foreman just because he’s desperately seeking help but I don’t know what to do. My car is been down for over two months now he needs a replacement transmission oil cooler hose. I tried ordering one from Ford parts dealer it was gonna take nine days and I got canceled literally the day before it was supposed to show up. From what I’ve read online some places will fabricate them for you but I haven’t been able to find any thing. Let’s just seems ridiculous they wanted me to buy $170 assembly for one 3 inch piece of hose. There’s gotta be another way??? is there?? thank you for anyone that tries to help me on this into the moderator I hope that I posted this in the right spot
  12. Ok so little bit of a back story. My son has a 2012 Fusion SE. I told him he needed to get the rear brakes done ASAP because pads were almost gone. He didn't listen and blew out the rear driver side caliper. During that event he sucked air into the master cylinder and likely ABS module. We have since done a full rear brake job and replaced the damaged caliper. We pulled the master cylinder and replaced with a new one after bench bleeding. Prior to installation of new master cylinder we plugged the outlet ports and confirmed internal seals were good as we had absolutely no movement in the piston with outlet ports plugged. We have installed the new master cylinder and manually bleed at the caliper at least 4 times time now including running the ABS bleed with Forscan 4 times and bleeding at each caliper. We have gotten some air of the system but no major pockets of air that I can see. Even after all these bleeds we still have zero brake pedal and no brakes at all. Prior to blowing out the caliper the braking system was working perfectly. Am I missing something, is there still just air trapped in the system somewhere and I need to keep at it with the bleeding? Any tips/advise would be greatly apricated.
  13. Looking to replace front struts on 2014 Fusion Titanium Hybrid with 18" wheels. Interesting in replicating factory like ride, (i.e. smooth, quiet ride), yet with responsive handling. Would like to go with Bilsteins, (22-250315 ft lt, 22-250322 ft rt), B4 OE replacement. However, without access to spring compressor would rather go with the quick strut assemblies. I've been unable to locate Bilstein Quick Strut Assemblies. What recommendations would you make based on positive experiences on the front strut, spring replacements? Thank you, TKell
  14. Either an EVAP valve or the cannister itself is no good. The cap is only responsible for sealing, not venting.
  15. I am currently looking for a QuickStrut recommendation for a 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid 18" rims. I'm interested in original ride height and the original ride quality. From my research neither Bilstein or KYB provide the QuickStrut for the Fusion. Recommendations are appreciated.
  16. Hey friends, my gas cap seems to be trapping air in the tank at the moment. Whenever I go to fill up, it starts and stops and every time it stops I hear the air whistle out. This hasn't caused any driving issues but it has made filling the tank obnoxious in the winter. My first thought and the mechanics first thought was that the purge valve needs to be replaced, however I noticed it doesn't have any issues whatsoever when the car is on, even in just electric mode (car not fully on). Could this be a software bug that needs to be fixed? How could it be the purge valve if it only happens when the car is off? Additionally, the button to release the cap hasn't been working, I've been using the manual release in the trunk. My guess is the actuator needs to be replaced. Could that be related to the issue? Thanks to anyone who can offer some help!
  17. Did you ever figure the noise out. Mine is doing the exact same thing!
  18. Earlier
  19. Did you ever pinpoint the issue? I have the same in first and second when accelerating. Hoping it’s motor mounts and not a full trans rehab.
  20. If the turbo comes apart while driving you'll sure wish you didn't drive it.
  21. I cannot find anything on the code, you need to get someone with a higher level scan tool to get in there, probably something in the ABS module, but that is a pure guess.
  22. If you don't change your spark plugs out at 100000 miles or less it will cause the ingiton colis to go bad witch in turn can cause the pcm to go bad as well
  23. I've done some research, but haven't found any answer that pertain to my situation. Last night on the hwy, my car threw the code p0299, underboost condition. My waste gate has been rattling for the last few weeks on cold starts and decel. I'm 40 miles from home and would rather not spend money on a tow truck, since I just bought a new turbo this morning. The car didn't go into limp mode, would I be okay driving it home? Or should I get it towed? It's all highway driving.
  24. A test with 92 Octane gas yielded 46.0 MPG at 55MPH and 36.3 MPG at 70MPH. So it's about a wash, basically 50 cents more per gallon than 88 octane gives 15% better milage. However I'm sure I get more Horse Power, so I'll just run the higher octane fuel and avoid too much timing coming out. I ordered a K&N cold air intake and I'll update these numbers once I install that to see if I pickup any fuel mileage.
  25. Direct injected cars like the Ecoboost lineup can have bluish smoke from bad/leaky injectors or improper fuel pressure. You need to do a case study, start writing down when you have to add oil (if you do) and how much. Would not hurt to have it looked at for fueling problems too.
  26. How many miles? Do you know the maintenance history? What shape is the oil in it now? It may just be worn a bit or maybe the valve seals?
  27. 2013 Fusion Energi C0022 grabby brakes when slow I have a 2013 Fusion Energi with 110,00 miles. The last couple of years, and last 20,00 miles or so the Brake System Warning box pops up along with the small red Brake light on the dash and a warning sound. I push OK to the box and it goes away leaving the small red light still on. Brakes seemed to be working perfectly though. After a few miles down the road the small red light will go out, and this scenario my not happen for another thousand miles, but will eventually happen again, with same scenario. But the other day after a no event drive of about 20 miles, I parked for about an hour and when I turned the ignition on I heard a growling noise from under the hood and both brake warnings came on again. When backing out slowly and lightly touching the brakes they seem to grab as if brakes were engaging intermittently. The car seemed to drive fine at normal speeds, and brake fine till car came to almost stop then brakes grabbing again. Have been driving the car for about 10 trips now and sometimes everything is ok, but mostly warnings lights on and brakes grabbing and making growling noise. Brakes and rotors look almost new though original. When Parked and pressing brake I hear growling sound, let off brake and sound goes away till I press on the brake again. Pulled a code of C0022-1 from a generic code reader, and pulled a code of C0022:01-28 from Android ForScan Lite. Brake fluid is full, but color is a slightly cloudy yellow. To my knowledge the fluid has never been flushed of changed. Could that be the problem: Thank you so much!
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...