All Activity

Please help someone, I have a 2012 fusion with the v6. The ac will blow cold all day long AS LONG AS ITS IN PARK, the second you pull it out of park it's starts blowing. Put it back in park ac comes back on. I know it sounds crazy but I'm lost and it's my wife's car and she hauls out three kids around and it gets very hot in Oklahoma. Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated. ~Steve

I am a 2013 Ford Fusion SE and I'm trying to install a 1080p rear view backup camera. The card does not currently have any backup cameras. Is it possible to by the bezel with the camera that comes installed in it and replace it with a better camera? I guess I'm asking what my options are.

2013 Ford Fusion SE. I'm looking to replace the mic for a better one. What ones exist that I can install where the current mic is with better sound quality?

Have a 2007 fusion se 4cyl.. On the dash above radio is 3 buttons..info...settings .reset...these buttons do nothing at all.. My speedometer is lit and working.. Is this a common thing that I can not get buttons to show oil,,or mpg readings..how can I fix

Even though the arbitration was in January this year, Ford has not replaced the dash. Ford is impossible to reach. In the meantime, like everyone else with this problem, I am driving with a car with a defective passenger air bag. As I mentioned earlier, a Ford engineer admitted that the airbag would not deploy properly.

Another 6 months of owning my car has passed. I only 53k on the car but decided to bring it for an oil change. But that's not the only fluid that got change I also went and changed the trans fluid. What a difference!!! I went from having little bumps telling I'm in gear to smooth gear selection. Also smoothed out 2nd to 3rd and a lot of little small things.

Hey I’m having the same issue on my fusion hybrid and I entered forscan to fix my issue but mine looks different. I’m not sure which numbers I change because mine are : 727-01-01 1850 FA00 0092

Awesome!! I’m glad somebody was able to get their dash repaired. I ended up cutting the crumpled pieces away and ordered a dash cover!! I’m still pissed about it!!

I had this problem with my 2017 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium which I bought new. I also bought an extended warranty. I asked Ford to fix it but Ford declined a the grounds that it was a defect in the “ dash pad” which was not covered. I took Ford to arbitration and the arbitrator ruled in my favor. I argued it was a safety matter because the defroster was not working properly and I was concerned that the air bag would not deploy properly. During testimony the Ford engineer admitted that the air bag might not deploy properly and that the defroster would not work properly.

The 3 vehicles i used to run K&N filters on, all got better gas mileage. Factory airboxes are made with a few major things in mind, cost, assembly time and NVH. I don't see doing maintenance as "more trouble than it's worth". I change my transmission fluid every year, i would never figure it is "more trouble than it's worth". On the other hand, a friend at work who put a K&N on his truck claimed he got worse mileage, he is a lead foot though.

Modern car use a TON of electricity to run proper. Couple that to modern batteries are crap and you get issues.

Just for future reference for other who might experience a similar issue, I may have found the solution I wanted to post on the forum. Last week I had two more instances of issues. First, where I forget to disable the start/stop function with the button, and it stalled at a stoplight while heading to work. The car refused to start and I was stuck at the light for about 2 hours waiting for a tow. The dash screens would light up but none of my outside lights worked. For the heck of it, before the tow arrived, I disconnected and reconnected the terminals and, low and behold, the car was working fine again. The second instance happened when I parked my car and later it simply wouldn't start (appeared unrelated to stop/start). Once again, I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it was starting fine. Strange as it sounds, my Cobra radar detector has a battery check function whenever the car is started and it told me last week the battery was bad. Exploring this potential cause, I discovered that the prior owner installed a standard, non-AGM battery in the car. According the owner's manual, stop/start cars specify a AGM-type battery. I installed an AGM replacement and haven't had any problems (at least so far). Admittedly, I'm a bit nervous about keeping the stop/start function on so I've been trying to remember to keep it off but check it's functionality every time I drive the car when parking the car to see if works. So far, about 20-30 tests without issue. Just to try to increase my confidence in the fix, when I took the old battery to the auto parts store to recycle it, I asked them to use their battery check equipment to verify the battery was bad. When they checked it, it showed as 'passing'. This didn't help me feel better but, like I stated, the car appears to be running fine now that an AGM-type battery is installed. Maybe the old battery was just starting to fail (?). I hope this information helps someone else out in the future.

Hey Jeremy, I am having the same issues with my 2019 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium. 51000 miles. Identical blower fan issues that righted itself after couple starts and stops. But then climate control is on full heat if setting isn't set to LO. This includes when AC is on. Have tried resetting climate control and will look at cabin temp sensor later today. I know its been a couple years but hoping you see this and let us know what the repair ultimately was. Thanks.

I have issue whit hood safety switch, the wire as been cut from the hood. Also can find the propper wire im my car to connect wire. Idk why sometimes when try start its honks 2 times and today honks 4 times. How do i reprograming or master reset of the remote start.

FOr those of you like me that refuse to shop on Amazon and Walmart I suggest Carquest as you can get WIX filters there. If I run regular oil I do a short change interval of 3000KM. If I run semi-synthetic I go the full 5K KM. If I run full synthetic I change it between 5-10K KM when it looks dirty on the dipstick. Prices in Canada are crazy right now, 5L of regular oil will set you back $50 if not on sale. I just paid $65 for a store brand (Canadian Tire) full synthetic 5L jug, and that was the sale price. Average price for name brand was $79 for 5L.

Oil filter(s): the 2 I use most (either @ Walmart or Amazon, whichever costs less), Motorcraft FL 910 / 910S Supertech ST3614 Both are very good filters for the $$, I used to disassemble my old filters, these 2 are well built, and post use inspection has taken Fram off my list to ever use. I keep an "inventory' of drain plug gaskets in my oil change kit.. I have used copper, but default to the "plasti-rubber" with seating ridges. I'm not gonna advise on ramps, I used to use them, but since I got a 4 post lift the ramps just hang on the wall. Oil I always use 100% synthetic, I use high mileage (different additive pkg) when it is available. I generally buy what is on sale (Menards currently has Pennzoil full synthetic for $16.99 for 5 qts) and I change the oil & filter @ 5K miles.

IF you overheated I would start with a compression test as well as testing the coolant for exhaust gases. You could also start by getting someone to scan it and look at live data and see what temperatures the computer is seeing. Check wiring see if anything looks melted around the coolant temp sensor.

sounds like the throttle body might be having issues, i had similar symptoms years ago on my '10 hybrid, wrench light and no codes, ended up replacing the throttle body because the electronics in the TB crack and dry out over years of use and create those issues. it is a really easy fix, and 3 years ago the cost was only about $75 including the gasket, no telling how much it is now though thanks to our government printing money as it needs it so that all our money is worth less.

It is not uncommom for a bad blower motor to take out the resistor/wiring plugs but that does not mean it is a guarantee. My blower makes a bit of noise when it's cold out but so far it's been OK. I really need to change it to prevent wiring/resistor issues though.

That was good luck. The only issue I remember with the blower motors is that the bearings would start chattering and chirping.

I have this issue, only mine did overheat, not horribly or for long, but it did after a low speed accident. I replaced the water pump, thermostat and radiator. The car runs great; no hesitation, no leaks, temperature right where it should be. Went to smog it the next month (in Cali) and there 1299. Checked the wiring, replaced the sensor but it’s still hanging around and won’t pass smog because of it. Any other suggestions for the spare time mechanically inclined? Before paying for an ECU or pro? thanks.

i am so glad i found this page, this easily saves hundreds of dollars thank you so much. ordering part as we speak

The connector on resistor looks perfectly fine (actually still looks brand new). I ended up replacing the blower motor only and its working perfectly now.

Pm sent. Thank you.