dfelix94 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Hi all, Brand new to this forum so please bare with me. I drive a 2010 Ford Fusion SE 4cyl./2.5L. About two weeks ago now, I was running some errands when suddenly the dash lights, A/C, and RPM's began fluctuating. I was by a Pep Boys so i thought I'd stop by to check my battery and alternator. After about an hour they told me both the alternator and battery had passed the tests. I then went to my mechanic who told me the alternator was showing some signs of needing to be replaced, so I had it replaced. Fast forward to today and I am still having the same issues, limiting myself to only drive during the day as the headlights fluctuate too much to be driving at night. My last option before taking it to Ford would be to replace the alternator connection, but wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas as to what may be the issue. If anyone has replaced the alternator connection, how difficult was it to do yourself/any advice? Frustrated in San Diego, Dave?? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Did you replace the battery? If it's more than 3 yrs old I'd go ahead and replace it even though it tested ok. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propwash Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) I would have the battery checked again, making sure that they use the newest battery tester. Many times a bad battery will show OK when tested with the older style test machine.Is this the original battery in a 2010 model? If so, it's more than overdue for replacement Browse through the forums here and you will see many cases where there were some strange, unrelated warning lights illuminating, Replacing the battery solved the problem in many of these cases. Good luck. Edited August 27, 2016 by propwash 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfelix94 Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 The battery was replaced in May of 2015. Also, there are no codes being sent to the computer indicating any issues. Should I still get the battery checked out? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Yes. I bought a Solar tester because I don't trust the shops and auto parts stores any more. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfelix94 Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 Battery was tested again and it passed (along with the alternator). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfelix94 Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 I figured I would take a look at the wires stemming from the alternator to see if I found any loose connections. After removing the battery, I found this. The red wire shown pulled apart with the lightest tug. Switching them out this afternoon, hopefully this will be the solution! I'll keep you all posted!! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfelix94 Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfelix94 Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 After an hour of replacing and taping up, I was ready to put the battery back in and run the engine. After a test drive, with different loads on the battery, no fluctuation of RPM's, battery light, or dimming lights.. SUCCESS!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propwash Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Glad to see that you have apparently gotten it taken care of. It's amazing how much trouble a corroded/intermittent connection can cause. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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