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2.0 Ecoboost - Warm Start Engine Studder and dying


malisk
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When the engine gets to normal temperature and then left for 10 or so minutes, I start the engine, put it in reverse and within several seconds it will begin shuttering and die. I restart the engine (which takes about 2 seconds, longer than normal) and most of the time it will work fine until I get to where i'm going. Tonight however, I went shopping (so it was warm when I got to the store) and it died twice in a row when driving out of the parking lot which suggests to me the issue is getting worse. No check engine light.

 

Currently I haven't experienced the issue unless the engine is warm (no cold start issues so far).

There is 56k miles on the vehicle.

The issue has been occurring for about 4 months now.

We are in Texas.

We only use mid grade gas (if that matters)

 

I've got the extended 100k/6year warranty but I'm sure if I take it in they will have me replace a bunch of parts NOT covered by the warranty :cry:

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So when I take it into the dealer any pointers on how I approach it with them? I've read a lot about people taking theirs in to the dealer and getting told BS, such as that there has to be a check engine light or codes or something for them to be able to really diagnose or fix anything.

 

Is there anything I should do upfront before taking it in to the dealer (like record certain information about the problem)? I really want to avoid them talking me into replacing a bunch of parts I have to pay for that may or may not be causing the issue. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is covered by the warranty (which two of you have suggested is the issue). So If I go into the dealer and they say it is spark plugs, should I push back and list reasons why the fuel pump is more likely the culprit for the issue?

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Depending on the dealer, they may or may not charge you a diagnostic fee upfront. My dealer does not usually charge if they don't find anything the matter.

 

Anyway, they should pull codes first, which can set even without a CEL on the dash. Hopefully there will be one fuel related, like a P0087 or something. If there are no codes or clues at all, in all honesty, the list of what could be wrong is not short. But the likelihood of it being fuel system related in these GTDI engines is high. Just to take an example, on the Taurus alone, there have been recalls for BOTH the intank fuel pump and the control module (different MYs etc). So I would insist on a check of the fuel system at the very least. Again, they may charge you a diagnostic up front, which would then go towards your deductible should it be warranty work.

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  • 1 month later...

GREAT NEWS, it was the fuel pressure sensor which was covered under the extended warranty. I am very happy, I was really expecting a long diagnosis phase with lots of part replacements before the fault was found.

 

Posting the actions by the tech for others' future reference.

 

 

zNIHMFd.jpg

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  • 2 years later...
  • 2 months later...

Very common problem with at least the '13 and '14's.   I have a 2014 Fusion Titanium with 85k miles, love it and never had any issues.

But just recently it started having this same issue... after starting my car up, put it in drive, it would shudder, rpm's start sinking and then just die.

I took it to AutoZone and they pulled a P00C6 code.  After googling for a while I found a ton of people having the same issue and the vast majority were resolved by replacing the low pressure fuel sensor.

So I bought part CM5250 ($49) and installed in about 15 minutes and bamm that did it!   (Fingers crossed).

 

 

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