I am needing upper control arms again. I don't think this last set lasted as long as the original ones. I'm wondering if there is a difference between the AWD arms and non AWD arms. I have a non AWD with 18" wheels. I'm wondering if the ball joint is offset more or less. I'm also wondering if the bushings are beefier in the AWD arms. I might just have to go compare them at the auto parts store.
– A new and expanded fleet of Ford SUVs will be doing the heavy hauling when the 91st edition of America’s Thanksgiving Parade - one of Ford Motor Company’s signature community events - rolls along Woodward Avenue in downtown Detroit.
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Hence, the statement, "Your Mileage May Vary" or YMMV, which has entered the American lexicon and is now used in a variety of instances that have nothing to do with EPA figures.
As akirby points out, knock 3% right off the top for E10, which is mandatory in many places. More.
I've never been a fan of small engines in big cars as a path to fuel efficiency. I believe that sometimes a bigger, more powerful powerplant doesn't have to work as hard thus produceing better real-world mpg.
Case in point: attached is a shot of the fuel economy readout from my 2017 MKZ 3.0TT taken on a trip this past summer. This was taken while cruising on the NJ Tpk at the speed indicated and A/C running. I was able to maintain this for the entire highway portion of the trip. Including stop-and-go at the beginning and some local driving at the end, I averaged 26+ mpg for the entire 94 mile journey. This is a 400hp/400lb.ft, 4300lb AWD sedan. Before you bring up the accuracy of the fuel economy gauge, I've checked it against the old-fashioned, hand calculated method numerous times and the results have always been within .1 mpg of each other.
Lincoln doesn't even use the "Ecoboost" name anymore. It's just 2.0T or 3.0T.
Sorry for the long wait but the problem has been fixed.
To make a long story short, my dealer found that there was a safety bulletin for all 1.6 Fusions and Escapes, concerning coolant loss and overheating and cracking cylinder heads. The car was pressure tested, found there to be a leak in cylinder #3. Ford decided to replace the engine with a brand new unit at no charge. I had them replace the clutch too while they were in there, so it cost me $150 for a new clutch. I would say it was a pretty stand up job of Ford to do this on a car with 72000 miles.
Let me know if anyone has some questions, I will be happy to try and get you the info to get your car fixed too.
I don't have a clue how you drive - I'm just putting facts and options on the table. You don't have to "beat" it to get bad mpg. I've found one thing that makes a difference is taking your foot completely off the gas when coasting. Keeping just a slight pressure on the pedal prevents the Deceleration Fuel Shutoff from engaging.
Just for fun - try fuel from a different station to make sure you're not getting lower octane than advertised. It can happen. If that doesn't make a difference try a tank of premium and see if that makes a difference. Also make sure it's E10 and not E15. The EPA tests with pure gasoline (not E10) even though most of us can't find pure gas any more. E10 will lower mpg versus pure gas. E15 will be even worse.
The test is perfectly valid and it doesn't matter if the computer is off a little. The point is to see what you're getting as close to EPA tests as possible. If the test says 27 mpg that points to a problem. If the test says 33 mpg then it's probably your driving.
Don't assume the dealer did anything. Dealers are independent businesses not controlled by Ford. Some are great, some are terrible. If those other tests point to a problem you can always try a different dealer.