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Showing most liked content since 09/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    First you go to the left side D button on the steering wheel, press left, then go back to whatever display mode you prefer. Next you go read the owner's manual where it explains how to do this and dozens of other things you need to know.
  2. 2 points
    My first thought is the bearing is probably starting to go. The easiest way to tell is to jack up the front of the car so that the wheels are completely off the ground, and then try to 'shake' the tires/wheels both back and forth and up and down. If the bearings are good, there should be ZERO play in the wheels.. if there is ANY movement at all, then the odds are extremely good that your bearing for that wheel is going out. Some bearings won't actually induce play into the wheel at all, but can still be bad. For these, you can tell by jacking the car up, or putting it on a lift, and getting the wheel moving, either by hand, or via the engine, such as in this video by Eric the car Guy: (please note that putting the car in drive while it is jacked up CAN be dangerous, so make sure you take precautions. I have been suspecting that one or more of my bearings on my 2010 Fusion is starting to go.. slight feeling, slight noise.. I checked this past Sunday, and sure enough, the passenger front wheel has about 2 millimeters of play in it.. Time to order a new bearing/hub assembly. I was REALLY hoping it would be a rear bearing, and not a front one. Rears are both much cheaper, and MUCH easier to replace.
  3. 2 points
    eGuru

    aftermarket rotors and pads

    I have had excellent performance from the Raybestos ATD1161C advanced technology ceramic pads. The 680958R professional grade rotors are also a good choice because they have very low runout.
  4. 2 points
    daniylo

    aftermarket rotors and pads

    For the pads, I personally like the Akebono ceramic pads.
  5. 2 points
    eGuru

    Engine Tick Stopped by Vacuum Line?

    This video will show you how to test it. Do you have any error codes?
  6. 2 points
    An add-a-circuit will provide a power source for your project BUT even if you are tapping the fuse that feeds the parking lights, that is not going to result in the power being supplied only when the parking lights are on. These fuses come upstream of the switching elements (FETs) that are controlled by the logic in the SJB/BCM. So the fuse is always "live". You need to tap into the actual wire feeding the parking lights (which would be downstream of the FETs).
  7. 1 point
    BlownGP

    2013+ OEM Big Brake upgrade

    I'm sorta obsessed with big brakes. lol So while my wife's MKZ was in the shop. I was given a MKX loaner which was pretty nice but noticed it had Dual piston calipers compared to the MKZ single piston. I was thinking it's a SUV, probably different platform, probably going to need custom brackets yada yada. Well come to found out thanks to Wiki it uses the CD4 platform.. I found out that the MKX uses a INCH bigger rotors with the Dual piston calipers. This might be worth the upgrade. Found some used calipers off a 2017 Continental (same calipers) with less than 1000 miles and got new pads and rotors. Everything bolts of up like stock. Can use the same caliper bolts also. The only extra part you need is the dust shields. You really don't need them but I bought some Continental ones off ebay for $10 just in case. The only downside to this upgrade is un-sprung weight but this ain't race car and if I was worried about gas mileage I would have got a Hybird. lol The Vehicles that come with the dual piston calipers are 2016+ MKX 2015+ Edge but not all of them have them. So it's hard to find them 2017+ Continental. I think this is the stranded brakes but not sure. 2017+ Fusion Sport. Only the sport gets the bigger brakes 2017+ MKZ. Like the Fusion. I believe they only come on the Twin Turbo V6 MKZ's. Any questions, let me know Thanks Steven
  8. 1 point
    RRM707

    New Wheels!

    Mach ME5 20" X 8.5 with BFGoodrich Comp 2 A/S 245/35ZR20
  9. 1 point
    I was having the exact same problems with my 2010 Fusion as you, and lived with it until it happened for the 3rd time. My Fusion had about 225,000 miles on it and was still running on the factory original Throttle Body, so I figured it was definitely time to replace it. Don't mess with an aftermarket/3rd-party throttle body - Go for the genuine Ford product. I bought mine here: Ford DS7Z-9E926-D Electronic Throttle Body It has actually come down in price since I bought mine, and is currently only about $50 and change (wow!)... Snap it up now and get it swapped out. I haven't had the problem once since I swapped mine, and it's an _EASY_ job.. took me less than 30 minutes. Also, to swap it out, you'll need to pull off part of the airbox, which contains the MAF. Get a can of CRC MAF Cleaner and carefully clean your MAF while you've got it apart. A few notes - Absolutely make SURE that you do not put your finger anywhere near the throttle body 'butterfly' - It's VERY strong and can potentially cause serious injury if it activates. This video is technically for a Ford Escape, but since the engine and TB are the same for the Escape and Fusion, it may as well be a video on doing it for the Fusion too: Best of luck!
  10. 1 point
    RRM707

    New Wheels!

    They fit perfectly, no rubbing!
  11. 1 point
    For those inclined to troubleshoot their wiper and washer problems, refer to the attached troubleshooting guide. Wipers and Washers.pdf I am expecting at least 2 "likes" for this.
  12. 1 point
    Hello, thank you for the help. I went to autozone and had them load test the battery and it failed. Got a new battery and voila! working again thanks!
  13. 1 point
    eGuru

    car dying / electric brake problem?

    The click is the shift interlock solenoid which is activated with the brake. As far as the other problems, perhaps your battery is not good - regardless of AutoZone's analysis. The battery is now likely at least 4 years old if it is the original and probably needs to be replaced.
  14. 1 point
    sirtanon

    Rear Wheel Bearing

    My 2010 has 240,000 miles on it, and while my right front bearing is now showing some play and thus in need of replacement, I'm still on the factory original rear bearings. I have never heard of any Fusion needing multiple wheel bearing replacements like that before, so I'd say that this is not a systemic issue, but rather specific to your vehicle, your mechanic, or something in your environment. Improper installation methods would absolutely cause replacement bearings to fail quickly. Any kind of damage introduced during installation would cause the bearing to fail pretty quickly, IMHO. If a bearing is being pressed into the hub, but the pressure is not uniform, or is on the inside race only, then it would definitely screw things up. If the bearing is pounded in with a hammer.. that would do it. If the surfaces are not clean, that would also do it. The first question that comes to mind, however, is "do you have any kind of wheel spacers or non-standard wheel offsets in use on that car?" My next question is "Have you lowered it, or in any other way change your suspension characteristics?"
  15. 1 point
    Clean66

    Joining from California

    Thanks! A few Ford's, '66 and '06 Mustangs. Thinking it's time for 4 doors...
  16. 1 point
    eGuru

    2009 lincoln MKZ strut question

    Monroe's e-Catalog is not recommending the 172261 Quickstrut for the MKZ, only for the Fusions. I suspect it is because the springs in the MKZ are stiffer than in any Fusion because your MKZ is more than 200 lbs heavier. Probably impossible to know how the springs in the quickstrut compare to the original MKZ springs.
  17. 1 point
    Weird, mine has 52k. Yours must have been hit by a rock also. The "hit by a rock" comment actually made me laugh. I mean seriously, look at it. It would be pretty well impossible for a rock to ever make it in there. As I mentioned when mine broke, there were white plastic shavings all around the area which is a dead giveaway the bushing just sits there and wears little by little every time you move your shifter. Plastic bushing on a metal pin and plastic heating and cooling everyday = horrible design. Nothing more than a part that should not wear, but Ford says its a wear part. Transmission cables should never leave you stranded. I'm not an idiot, I actually have built many hot rods and modern muscle cars. I know my way around tools and cars. This Fusion is my DD. Not sure why the love and defensiveness admitting Ford engineering sucked on this one. Doesn't take a genius to see this design is awful and is meant to break Anyhow, I replaced mine last Thursday evening. Took me about 4 hours. You don't have to remove the dash, but you will have to remove all the trim around the shifter and what goes up and around the radio/ nav screen. You will remove the vinyl trim pieces running the length of the console on the side. Remove all these pieces gently working your finger or tools along the edge to pop the clips loose. Its pretty well all clipped in until you get those pieces removed to reveal the actual hardware of the console. You will then remove 4 screws where the console sweeps up and attaches to bottom of dash/ on sides of nav screen. You will see two larger bolts at the front of the console pointing towards engine bay. Remove those. Slide front seats forward and remove the two large bolts at back of console from rear floor board. You''ll see those once you have all the plastic side panels of the console removed. Then there are four maybe six nuts holding shifter down to the floor. Remove those. With all those bolts removed you should be able to lift console from the rear. All you're doing at this point trying to give yourself enough room to feed the old cable out and new cable in. Out/ in will be done through the console. It will not come through firewall. The oval plate built onto the cable attaches under the dash via two nuts right onto the floor well. This plate is basically a cable guide. The hardest part is feeding the cable under the abundance of wiring at the very front of the console, but you can do it. Just don't start yanking on the cable. Feed it, work it around etc. As for the part. No local store could get it for me. I was told by two stores the car is too new. It had to come from Ford directly. The part # is most likely DG9Z7E395L or DG9Z7E395M. You'll need to contact a Ford dealership and give them your vin so they can get you the right one Oh and one last thing. This will happen again. Its supposed to. Might not be a horrible idea to keep an extra cable or lots of zip ties to at least get you going again like I had to
  18. 1 point
    Yep, just trade for what you want, don't try to build it.
  19. 1 point
    Waldo

    Swaps

    All that stuff talks to the other modules over the CAN network. Even if they bolt right in, you'll need to find a way to change all the configurations in the software to match the parts you put in. If you end up with combinations of parts that were never designed to work together, you can get all kinds of strange results.
  20. 1 point
    It would probably be cheaper to simply buy a V6 Fusion. There are probably tons of differences in many parts, including springs, due to weight and other differences. Not to mention computers, wiring, etc...
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    The dash does not have to be removed so cost quoted is way too high.
  23. 1 point
    fusionff

    Parts Identification

    Maybe this is what you're looking for. Click on the right smaller picture under the blown up view for a darker picture.
  24. 1 point
    eGuru

    A/C blowing hot air

    Okay. It's not clear what you mean by "this happened" but this "justanswer" is only partially correct. You don't need to pull any fuses. Disconnect one of the battery cables for a few minutes and then reconnect and start the vehicle. Don't touch the HVAC controls. The car will re-calibrate the HVAC damper servos in less than a minute. This may resolve your issue. If not, you need to be more specific about your symptoms (fault codes etc) before anyone here can offer meaningful advice.
  25. 1 point
    davidm

    2012 Ford Fusion "Growling Noise"

    eGuru. Evidently the kit is just a pulley per description on FordPart.com below: PULLEY Part #: AL8Z10344A Pack Qty: 1 Price: $ 185.53 That was the part number on my repair order for my 2012 Fusion. I did not look at the part but I would think it was the tensioner pulley with stronger tension to stop the harmonic oscillations that are causing the growling sounds. Have you tried checking to see if an aftermarket parts store can cross the part number over to something they have? Good luck,
  26. 1 point
    davidm

    2012 Ford Fusion "Growling Noise"

    Did they replace the pulley with the Pulley Kit, Ford part # AL8Z-10344-A, referenced in 2009-2012 Escape and Mariner TSB 11-10-26? This Pulley Kit took care of the growling noise on my 2012 Fusion and also my sister's 2012 Fusion, both with the 2.5L 4 cylinder motor.
  27. 1 point
    drolds1

    Auto Engine Off?

    While you're waiting for them to fix it, you can stop worrying about your starter. Cars with the stop/start feature have a suite of upgraded parts/systems. Among those is the starter. It's not the standard starter that goes in non stop/starter-equipped cars.
  28. 1 point
    And they made fun of the push button , electronic shifter in my MKZThe 2017 Fusions have an electronic selector. More and more mfrs. are moving to them.
  29. 1 point
    Perhaps this video will make the repair process less painful.
  30. 1 point
    For single zone systems there is only one blend door actuator and it is on the driver's side. You should be able to get your finger on the shaft by lying on the floor.
  31. 0 points
    Well, then I guess this is a two-off problem, because I just had this exact same failure on my 2013 with 51k miles. Replacing the bushing at the end won't solve the problem because the entire bushing snapped in half (so the video link doesn't help, but thank you). As for it being "hit by a rock", the linkage between the cable and the transmission is located at the very top of the transmission housing, under the hood, so that is impossible. I'm now being quoted over $600 from the dealer to repair because they have to remove the dash, center console, etc. in order to replace the $45 cable. This is outrageous. It is a design flaw. I'm asking the dealer to assist me in getting Ford to cover this repair, but I'm not too optimistic.
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