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Showing most liked content since 11/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Use left display controller. Go left, then Settings/Display/Gauge Display/Fuel+Tach Then go back to MPG display and voila!
  2. 1 point
    You are correct, gas is not sprayed on the intake valves, but the better gas produces less harmful vapors that get pushed through to the PCV system. The PCV system being the main culprit on the carbon buildup on the intake valves. Every little bit helps in that prevention of that build up that we know is happening on ALL our engines.
  3. 1 point
    BlueOval2010

    Heated Seat Issue

    I looked into the aftermarket stuff too, but bought the Ford parts. The heat pad is a resistive electrical device, and my butt would be sitting on it so I decided the perfect fit part was the best way to go.
  4. 1 point
    drolds1

    FordFusionTeam.com ?

    'Search' is your friend: http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/11946-ford-fusion-team-join-today/ The site is not sponsored by FoMoCo.
  5. 1 point
    eGuru

    2013 Ford Fusion se heater not working

    Try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes. Reconnect and then the system will recalibrate itself. If no improvement, it could be the blend door actuator or temp controller module. We would need more details in order to offer anything more specific.
  6. 1 point
    Disconnecting the battery will reset the PCM, and that simple effort can reset all sorts of electrical issues. Leave the cables disconnected for a while, reconnecting the battery too quickly will not do a full reset and may not correct your radio issue.
  7. 1 point
    i did the black fusion today. went from 245/45/18 to 225/60/16 with pirelli cinturado strada tires from discount tire. Did the cmax a earlier in the week. went from 225/50/17 to 215/60/16 pirelli p7 cinturado all season plus. The fusion is only about a half inch larger in diameter. 60.7 miles an hour when you are registering 60 on the speedo. the fusion was the same diameter as before but i changed the wheel offset to push it out a bit and fill the wells. both cars now drive much better and the fusion is the biggest difference ive ever experienced in a tire change. with the reduced unsprung weight and adding so much sidewall the car just drives fantastic. Its a super soft quiet ride and it accelarated better than before. Its an ecoboost awd which was quick before but now it just feels way better. i am the opposite of most people but i think if people really knew how negatively large rims and tiny sidewall really impacted every aspect of the drive they would go in the opposite direction. till then ill enjoy the better ride at a discounted price. tall sidewalls and small wheels are way easier on the wallet.
  8. 1 point
    FusionFud

    Frustrated with car stalling

    Here is the part number for the Sensor Items Ordered: 1. BU5Z9F972B SENSOR - FUEL INJECTOR PRESSUR Price: $34.95
  9. 1 point
    drolds1

    Horrible Costly News: Transmission

    Mercon is known for turning dark fairly quickly. It's normal and not an indication of a malfunction. See video.
  10. 1 point
    I agree, you would think transmission longevity would be figured out by know but new cars seem to be going backwards. I drained my tranny fluid (65,000 miles) recently after learning of the filter being non accessible. I was surprised how dark the fluid was. I plan on draining the fluid every other oil change till it clears up.
  11. 1 point
    drolds1

    2014 Fusion 1.5L Ecoboost code P0420

    An illuminated CEL will cause an automatic failure in any state that has emissions testing. The question is : why is it on in the first place? It could be a 02 sensor but it could also mean a bad catalytic converter. Even if the light is off when testing, if NOx emissions are high, it'll still fail the test. You may have warranty coverage on the CC but you need a diagnosis .
  12. 1 point
    Here is the Michelins on the 18's.
  13. 1 point
    mmwat

    2014 Fusion 2.0L Intermittent Stalling

    I have a 2014 Ford Fusion SE 2.0L Ecoboost with about 90k miles on it. For the last 4 or 5 months it has been randomly stalling, it only happens about once or twice a month and randomly. It usually stalls shortly after start up once I put the car in drive. After the car stalls it will start up fine and run fine until it happens again. No check engine light pops up, but after clearing all codes and letting it happen again the code P0087 showed up. This led me and my mechanic to believe it was a fuel pressure sensor, which we replaced two weeks ago. Unfortunately the stall happened again last night. I started the car, put it in reverse, pulled out of a parking spot, put the car in drive, made a right turn, it started to sputter and lose power, then died. I then restarted it and it has driven fine since. Here is some other random/weird information about the stalling that's probably not useful. The stalling has happened in two places, a few times pulling out of the drive of my house, three times in front of one restaurant in our town that we don't frequent all that often, and pulling out of my parents drive. It also hasn't happened on a warm day (above 60F) yet. Do you guys have any suggestions or recommendations?
  14. 1 point
    drolds1

    Compare tire sizes

    Comparison: It's not advisable to mix tire sizes:
  15. 1 point
    eGuru

    Compare tire sizes

    Not a good idea at all as it will not play well with the ABS due to significantly different tire diameters.
  16. 1 point
    eGuru

    Horrible Costly News: Transmission

    As droids1 mentions, there are parameters that are constantly changing so during the life of a vehicle the number of memory write cycles can be astronomical. Flash memory has a limit to the number of write cycles before failure, That number varies based on the flash type, but can be less than a million cycles. The life is also significantly degraded at the higher temperatures that you would find under the hood.
  17. 1 point
    drolds1

    Horrible Costly News: Transmission

    Thanks for the compliment but I'm hardly the oracle. The PCM's do have flash memory for certain fixed settings, e.g., rev limiter, top speed, Things like idle and fuel trim are constantly changing based on input from sensors. I'm sure eGuru has a better answer.
  18. 1 point
    drolds1

    Dead Battery

    My friend had a battery last 9 months in his BMW. You just never know.
  19. 1 point
    Video of me replacing the Evap Temp Sensor in my 2011 Fusion. https://youtu.be/88HbfW4rQv8
  20. 1 point
    drolds1

    Dead Battery

    Motorcraft and Duralast batteries are both manufactured by Johnson Controls. Get back to us in 3 years.
  21. 1 point
    drolds1

    Fusion Ecoboost Fuel Mileage

    Hence, the statement, "Your Mileage May Vary" or YMMV, which has entered the American lexicon and is now used in a variety of instances that have nothing to do with EPA figures. As akirby points out, knock 3% right off the top for E10, which is mandatory in many places. More. I've never been a fan of small engines in big cars as a path to fuel efficiency. I believe that sometimes a bigger, more powerful powerplant doesn't have to work as hard thus produceing better real-world mpg. Case in point: attached is a shot of the fuel economy readout from my 2017 MKZ 3.0TT taken on a trip this past summer. This was taken while cruising on the NJ Tpk at the speed indicated and A/C running. I was able to maintain this for the entire highway portion of the trip. Including stop-and-go at the beginning and some local driving at the end, I averaged 26+ mpg for the entire 94 mile journey. This is a 400hp/400lb.ft, 4300lb AWD sedan. Before you bring up the accuracy of the fuel economy gauge, I've checked it against the old-fashioned, hand calculated method numerous times and the results have always been within .1 mpg of each other. Lincoln doesn't even use the "Ecoboost" name anymore. It's just 2.0T or 3.0T.
  22. 1 point
    akirby

    Fusion Ecoboost Fuel Mileage

    I don't have a clue how you drive - I'm just putting facts and options on the table. You don't have to "beat" it to get bad mpg. I've found one thing that makes a difference is taking your foot completely off the gas when coasting. Keeping just a slight pressure on the pedal prevents the Deceleration Fuel Shutoff from engaging. Just for fun - try fuel from a different station to make sure you're not getting lower octane than advertised. It can happen. If that doesn't make a difference try a tank of premium and see if that makes a difference. Also make sure it's E10 and not E15. The EPA tests with pure gasoline (not E10) even though most of us can't find pure gas any more. E10 will lower mpg versus pure gas. E15 will be even worse. The test is perfectly valid and it doesn't matter if the computer is off a little. The point is to see what you're getting as close to EPA tests as possible. If the test says 27 mpg that points to a problem. If the test says 33 mpg then it's probably your driving. Don't assume the dealer did anything. Dealers are independent businesses not controlled by Ford. Some are great, some are terrible. If those other tests point to a problem you can always try a different dealer.
  23. 1 point
    or there is a bad antenna cable connection to the head unit.
  24. 1 point
    jwscogin

    PRNDL Lights Draining Battery

    The park position microswitch fixed the problem. The car sat overnight and started with no problem, not even a slower than normal crank. Thank's everyone!
  25. 1 point
    jwscogin

    PRNDL Lights Draining Battery

    We too "Pick N Pull" today and removed a shifter assembly from a 2011 Fusion. The shifter assembly for the 2011 fusion was a little different in operation. But, it used the same microswitch for the P (park position). Removed the microswitch and installed in the original shifter assembly and the PRNDL on the instrument cluster turned off within a minute of turning the key to the off position. I will wait overnight to see if the battery holds a charge and not be dead. Again, thank you all.
  26. 1 point
    jwscogin

    PRNDL Lights Draining Battery

    Just located the problem on my 2010 fusion with the PRNDL staying on and that was causing the PCM stay active. The micro switch for the park position was bad on the shifter assembly. I removed the micro switch and set voltmeter to ohms (with beep on) and tried ohming across all three wires with the switch in and out with no change. I cut the three wires and reconnected the one large wire connector. Next two steps I only touched and did not twist or keep them permanently attached. Touched the black and blue wire and the P (park position) turned orange. Touched the red and blue wire and heard a click. The PRNDL on the cluster turned off. I checked fuse 26 (instrument Cluster battery power) inside and it was still 2.8 millivolts, good? But, when I checked fuse 46 (PCM) under the hood. Yes, it dropped from the 10.3 millivolts to ZERO. My large draw on the battery has been eliminated. Leaving the battery connected to validate my findings. Microswitch for the shifter assembly? Unlikely that I will be able to purchase that separately from the shifter assembly. I'm glad that it was not a PCM ($500) causing the large draw. Will follow up with final findings and how I resolved my problem. Thank you all for the help and getting me pointing in the right direction with the PRNDL post. Again, thank you!
  27. 1 point
    I had the same issue and it was resolved by replacing the purge valve. This video might help... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meuO6syzkdw&list=LLWnGdJz4zWJQf5vpbyuzWMA&index=1
  28. 1 point
    nForrest

    2016 Fusions SE2

    From the album 20616 Fusion SE

  29. 1 point
    snake2332

    Heated Seat Issue

    Thanks for your steps. I did this job Saturday on my 2010 SEL AWD, driver's side. Took me about 4 hours with no special tools or experience doing these sort of repairs. Little bit of a pain, but not too terrible. If I had to do it again, I would do this: Remove the 4 plastic shrouds over the 4 mounting points of the seat. These generally pull straight forward/backward away from the seat, though you'll need to pull up on them a bit to get them out, especially the rear ones. They're pretty tight!​ Loosen the 4 bolts, moving the seat forward and backward as needed. You can probably remove the bolts completely but I left them threaded in a little to help hold the seat while I did the next few steps. Recline the seat pretty far back so you can remove the head rest, then remove it and incline the seat pretty much all the way forward. Move the seat pretty far forward to best access the 2 electrical plugs beneath it. I wouldn't put it all the way forward because you won't be able to move it again after you remove the plugs. I ended up having mine almost all the way forward and still managed to get the seat out of the car, but it would have been easier if it was maybe 70% of the way forward or less. Right in the middle might be best, I don't really know. Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery. I believe it's a 5/16" bolt on the battery cable. Side-note: I looked at my tripometer prior to this since I use it to track my distance between oil changes (I don't like solely relying on the computer telling me when to change the oil), but the tripometer reading didn't get cleared when the battery was disconnected. Nice! Disconnect the fuse if you want to. It was called the Restraints Control Module in my manual, like fusionff said in his post. I didn't remove it because I like to live dangerously, haha. But seriously, if you disconnect the battery, that should be good enough. If the fuses were easier to get to, I would have pulled it, but they're kind of a pain to access and I'm lazy. Beneath the seat in the back, you'll see two plugs to remove: A small yellow one and a big black one. For the smaller yellow plug, pull it down out of the two holes and then disconnect it. For the large black plug, you'll need to rotate it. To do this, remove the plastic black plug holding it in place. You'll also need to push down on the little metal tab that is sticking up through a hole right next to the weird aluminum plug thing (see pic), then rotate it clock-wise. The gray frame/hinge thing is what ejects the plug, so push down on the tab holding it in place and fully rotate the frame downward to eject the plug. I managed to break that little tab off of the gray frame since it's not very strong and it was cold when I was doing this, so the plastic was weaker. ​ Those 2 plugs and the 4 bolts are the only things you need to remove to get the seat out. Well, and the head rest. Now, put something around your door jam to protect it from scratches that might occur when wrestling the seat out. I used a blanket and avoided damage mostly. I figured out a good plan when putting the seat back in that would have kept me from getting scratches had I thought of it when removing the seat, which is: Put 4 leather work gloves (or something similar) around the 4 corners of the frame, like where the bolts go. I used some medium-sized gloves and they stayed on there pretty well and avoided damage. Put your steering wheel up as high as it will go, then wrestle the seat out of the car. I forget the exact angles and whatnot, but you'll figure it out. Hope you don't have back problems or else you might need a 2nd person to help you. I took my seat into the house to work on it where it was warm. I did all the work on the seat with it laying on its back. Looking at the seat from the bottom and the seat laying on its back, you'll be removing the top and left edges of the leather to access the heating pad. You won't need to remove the plastic on the right edge where the controls and lumbar knob are, luckily. There is a long plastic guide holding the leather on the "top" edge. Pull that off. There is another shorter plastic guide on the "left" edge, pull that off (guide #2 in following pic). There is a cloth part that goes over the seat belt receptacle that is held on with a little pocket that wraps around a metal tab - remove it from that tab and unvelcro it to free it up all the way. I believe you should be able to pull the leather back to the first row of the dreaded hog clips now. I simply separated them with two needle-nose pliers, trying not to bend them any further than required. Remove the two rows of hog clips, 6 clips total. Pull the heating unit off, trying to avoid ripping up foam cushion of course. The heating pad goes way back there to where it seems like you might have to take the seat cover off more, but just compress the foam as much as you can and pull the pad off. Naturally, you'll need to unplug the unit it from under the seat, remove the 2 clip-things holding the cord in place, and pull the cord through the seat as you remove the heating unit. Install the new heating unit, pushing the plug and cord through the cushion first. They included the 2 clip-things on the cord so you don't have to reuse the ones from the previous unit. I adhered the very back of the unit first, jamming it back there as far as I could, then the next two adhesive sections. I purchased part "number" AE53-14D698-AA and my exiting unit ended in AB. The new heating unit seemed a bit longer but still barely fit. Now for the most difficult part...put the hog clips back in place. I managed to do this with needle nose pliers, though I imagine a hog clip tool might have made it easier. I made sure the two narrow rows of velcro stuff was pushed in as I put the seat cover back on, though I imagine just sitting in the seat accomplishes this. Underneath the seat, put the two plastic guides back into place and the cloth part that goes around the seat belt receptacle. The longer guide kind of seemed like it snapped into place after I jimmied with it for a while. It should be ready to put back into your Fusion. Make sure you have protection on the 4 corners of the frame, and probably along the door jam of your car. Hope you vacuumed under the seat and washed off those 4 plastic shrouds while the seat was out. Mine was pretty dirty since my wife eats in the car during the warmer months since she speed-walks on her lunch hour and used to have to eat while driving since her supervisor was mean and wouldn't let her eat at her desk. Now my wife is the supervisor though and has an office, so HA! Hope my input helps! All in all, not too bad of a job. Definitely worth it to save the $500+ that Ford would charge you. I got the heater for $73 shipped. My wife's butt had better appreciate the effort I put in, hahaha!
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