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thefoeyouknow

Fusion Member
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About thefoeyouknow

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  • Region
    U.S. Great Lakes
  • My Fusion
    2012

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  1. The new remote needs to be programmed to the RMST system. Find the override switch attached to the RMST module. Hold the brake and turn on the ignition, then hold the override switch for several seconds (I don't remember how long) after the chirp, release the brake and override, press the button ON THE REMOTE START FOB, you should get a chirp if you have more than one, program the one by pressing IT'S button and getting a chirp as a response. turn off the ignition, remove the key. with the doors closed, press and hold the remote start button for 2 Mississippi and release. there should be a chirp, a couple second wait, then a start up, followed by a 2 to 4 second wait, then parking lights as visual confirmation of start. I have a write-up on the Bronze system 100 kit, here. If you go looking for it, please accept Photobucket's apology for the pictures being broken. They apparently didn't feel like sharing anymore. At the dealer, I installed several hundred of that kit on various Ford vehicles.
  2. The rain sensor is a camera attached to the glass with a Gel Lens, ABOVE the rear view mirror, the lower camera is for auto-high beam and LANE DEPARTURE warning. The Homelink opener doesn't need an "eye", it's not IR, it's RF and it's entirely enclosed in it's assembly (you can take it out and wire it to a 9 volt and it will work. Ask me how I know). The controls for rain sensing wipers are on the right stalk ONLY, with rain sensing, it's a sensitivity adjustment, without it's the interval setting. There are no menu items related to rain sensing wipers in the message center, whether you have it or you don't.
  3. Exactly. And a Bi-Xenon system is best when built into a projector. A Bi-Xenon projector provides HID high beams by simply changing the optics. Instead of a Low beam, consider it a light source, if you change the shield, you change the beam height and create a high beam. DON'T PUT HIDs IN YOUR HIGH BEAM. Change your projectors to 1. an actual HID projector (has a different shaped reflector bowl so you don't blind people and can have a properly wide beam) 2. a Bi-Xenon HID projector (not required unless you really want HID high beams, as OEMs like to use a fixed low beam HID with a halogen high beam so they can current limit the high beam for use as a DRL).
  4. They're HIDs, of course they are. Answer this: do OEMs have separate HID high beams? Why not?
  5. So, you really want to wait 3 to 10 seconds for your high beams to be usable? Wow.
  6. Bi-Xenon Hella projector swap with D2S burners, 35w ballasts and Capacitors (4700uF). Only way to do it. I don't have strange electrical problems with my setup, my autolamps don't stick on, nothing. Don't use relay kits, don't use shit-can ballasts, and for God's sake, don't try to put rebased burners in your stock projectors. Now, OP hasn't told us about his setup, I can only assume based on what every OTHER HID problem around here starts out with for a swap setup. If I've misjudged you, please elaborate by detailing your HID layout.
  7. AC not working, pressure gauge maxed

    When the system is static (clutch not engaged), you'll find that system pressure will be more or less equal to ambient temp in F. If you're reading 70psi, you're not engaging. Who knows why, but there is always the old standby of disconnecting the battery 15 minutes. The clutch is managed by computers, and every now and then a computer needs the old 3 finger salute. After you try that, go see the dealer. And as always do not add refrigerant yourself. If a shop knows you did, they probably won't touch it for fear of getting their 3,000 to 10,000 dollar machine fucked up with sealant. You can never be sure your walmart refrigerant cans don't have "stop-leak". Quotes, because stop leak doesn't stop leaks, it fucks shit up.
  8. P0301 code / misfire, etc..

    I don't know about this valve specifically, but some EGR valves can be forced open by backpressure. I'd check for backpressure, it's easy and fast.
  9. P0301 code / misfire, etc..

    I stand corrected. Congratulations on your victory.
  10. P0301 code / misfire, etc..

    My friend uses that on his EcoBoost truck, swears he has a MAF. All EcoBoost engines are speed density, so no actual MAF; just a calculated value. The "all EcoBoost are speed density" thing is directly from Ford engineers as related to me in training in Allen Park. I have the literature. I haven't peeked under the hood of the Fusion lately, so I'd be happy to admit to being wrong if you can post a pic of your EGR valve.
  11. P0301 code / misfire, etc..

    I'm glad to hear that. My wife is out by you for work, and based on her reports of the weather there, 201-205 seems completely reasonable. Unless I'm mistaken, you don't have an EGR valve. My Fusion is a 12 with a 2.5, and I don't have one so I can't imagine that you would. Ford uses the variable cam timing to influence valve overlap for the purpose of achieving the same effect.
  12. Get a 6800uF 50v capacitor for each ballast. You're feeding the ballasts a pulse width modulated signal for power, and they don't like it. Also, 55w is a poor choice for ANY HID install, there are several reasons why, you're dealing with at least one of them. On your car, you don't need CAN-BUS adapters or ballasts, because they also add load. You have to understand what the term can-bus means, it means that the system monitors current draw to determine the health of the light bulb and circuit. If draw is low, it thinks the bulb is out; if it's high, it thinks there is a short. When the BCM flags either of these conditions, it disables the circuit as a protection measure. Can-bus also means that the module controls brightness through the process of pulse-width modulation, which means it's cycling the power on and off at a high frequency with a transistor, rather than just grounding a relay on that supplies clean power from the battery. THIS is how ballasts die in newer cars. THAT is can-bus. If someone tells you a ballast includes can-bus hardware they're full of shit. A can-bus adapter includes a load resistor and a capacitor. The load resistor increases current draw so the module doesn't get the idea that the bulb is out, and the capacitor cleans up the power. With 55w ballasts, you're already at or near the current draw the module wants to see, so adding the load resistor can push the module into thinking there is a short by further raising draw. All you need for your high contrast special is a suitable capacitor on each ballast to clean up the power. You can do THIS, but in the few years since this post, I've started using 6800uF 50v caps.
  13. P0301 code / misfire, etc..

    On the discussion of the profitability where you suggest an engine replacement to be more lucrative: An engine replacement carries a LOWER profit margin that a head replacement, which is less profitable than a valve replacement and seat repair. From a business standpoint, heavy engine is more of a liability, costs are higher for the shop, markups are lower, and labor doesn't make up the difference. A long block is a sure thing, but LESS profitable, so the idea that a dealership or other shop wants to push it because it's a high dollar job is simply uninformed. It's only about risk management, take the profit hit to avoid a larger loss from having to eat the job next time. I no longer work for a dealer, I'm an independent now, so I don't want to sell you a car, and I would have made the same recommendation. Your block assembly may be fine, but there is no way for them to know that, aside from what you tell them, and customers are notoriously unreliable as a source of information. I hope your repair ends well. Please don't mistrust your mechanic because you misjudge his intentions.
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