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About cccerbeus

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    U.S. Northeast
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  1. Short version, water pump failed, milked oil, swapping in refreshed boneyard motor in the spring. Every resource i've seen says the drivetrain go in and out through the bottom. Has ANYONE done this job through topside access?
  2. I was never a Ford tech. I did work for a Jaguar independent dealership / restoration for several years and ford did own Jaguar, but i'm still 2 degrees of separation from being able to have any pull (haha) I don't want a rebuild, but i was considering a Ford OEM Reman. as it stands, I think i'm just going to do the pump and see how it is after. It doesn't seem to have a knock after changing the oil twice.. Either way, I'm stuck doing the job myself, whether i went for an engine or just a pump, and doing the pump looks like the best return on investment. And fwiw, I am still a tech doing fleet service for one of the largest civilian employers in America,
  3. I need to do this job. Every reference i've seen says drop the engine out to do it. I'm just wondering if anyone has done the job any other way?
  4. WATER PUMP Failed.

    FWIW, the dealer that did my "diag" quoted me $8800 for an engine installed. I've seen Ford reman engines for $3600 - 5600 (purchase price only, plus $1000 core) but that is an ass raping for installation. Which is why I'll be doing it myself. (whichever route I go) There is no way I'd put a used engine in this car considering the water pump issue and impossibility to do it in car.
  5. WATER PUMP Failed.

    I'm not 100% sure but if i had to guess, it stalled due to the battery being low (battery has been on the weak side for a little while, was slated for replacement before winter set in) because the alternator belt was slipping from the coolant being sprayed on it out the leak port. (ford did make a port to dump coolant leakage outside the motor but thats not the only direction it leaks, and there was a pressure vent going on when i opened the hood). it stalled due to the oil being over thickened by the mixing of oil and coolant which becomes almost gelatinous at a certain mixture ratio, and the extra load on the oil pump was more than the engine could handle at idle it stalled because the super thick oil coolant mixture couldn't make it up to the cam phaser so the cam timing went to whatever position it goes to without oil pressure (probably full retard)
  6. Engine Replacement

    But, they go in as a complete assembly.. If just replacing the engine (like I may have to do) maybe topside access would work.. I'm trying to figure this out myself
  7. WATER PUMP Failed.

    I had my pump let go on the ride home from work, stalled coming into the driveway, oil all milked up. I had a third party extended service contract so I had it towed to a dealership for confirmation of diagnosis but the company it's telling me they won't cover it because I change my own oil which is strictly excluded in their contract language. For the record I was an ase-certified Master Tech who allowed my certifications to expire because they weren't making me $1 more and we're only costing me on renewal tests. Now I'm trying to figure out whether I should just change the pump or replace the engine considering the contamination. I did change the oil when I got it back from the dealership twice and it does not knock at this time. But you never know what damage the coolant could have done to the actual bearing surfaces. The dealership invoice said that the engine was knocking and skipping which it never did when I dropped it off and I didn't run it after picking it up until I changed the oil, and it never did after I change the oil so I'm hoping that was just some creative license on their part to try to sell the job to the warranty company. So the question is what's the likelihood at the bottom end is still viable if I just do the pump? Considering the amount of work required to get to the engine front cover to do the pump I'm half inclined to just buy a Ford reman and throw it in but the warranty on the reman is pretty pitiful.
  8. So, just a big ass PSA here.. The water pumps on our engines (Sport = 3.5L) are behind the front engine / timing cover and the pump is driven by the timing chain. My pump seal failed, dumped coolant into the engine pan, circulated and mixed with oil, engine is toast. Dealer estimate $8800 for reman'ed engine and installation. And oh yeah, I still owe almost that much on it.. 3rd party Warranty company (Ownershield) is not honoring the warranty because the language of the contract prohibits me from doing my own oil changes, even though I was an ASE certified Master Tech. FWIW, I let the certs expire years ago because my employer at the time would not pay me a penny more for them or even reimburse the cost of the test. So, have someone else do your services if necessary to maintain your warranty coverages.
  9. its not a dumb question, but yes, i opened everything i could open. Alldata diy says:
  10. anyone done this? I tried pulling the bottom hose but very little comes out and don't want to waste a week draining and filling 2 quarts at a time... Alldata DIY is pretty worthless for info on the cooling system flow path etc.. Also any reference to cheaper specialty green motorcraft fluid (or recommendations) is appreciated
  11. Is my low fuel warning coming on early?

    For what it is worth, It comes on at "50 miles to empty" but that is bullshit and very early. My spec information says the tank holds 18 gallons (2011 Fusion Sport AWD) but even with the display saying zero miles to empty i've never gotten it to take more than 16.3 gallons, so there was still a gallon and a half of reserve. BTW, this is not a bad thing. Just setting you clocks ahead to stay on time if you have a chronic late person in the house, the safety margin is a good thing. No down side really.
  12. Fusion Sport AWD Maintenance

    just a quick update, I got my dealer to replace the PTU under warranty at 59.600 miles, as they considered it failed. (very pleased with this) Also, both front suspension springs were broken and as a result both front strut assemblies were replaced under my extended warranty
  13. Fusion Sport AWD Maintenance

    I used mobil 1 synthetic 75w-140 in both the PTU and rear diff, because i had it, and because it was listed as an alternative to standard fluid in the diff in cases of severe service. The PTU calls for 75-140. i used this pump http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv7241.aspx There are no drain plugs on the PTU or rear diff but it is simple to stick a hose in through the fill port & pump out most of the fluid from the diff. not so easily doable with the ptu.. Next time i try it i plan to make a suction tube out of metal, fuel or brake line, that i can better control than a floppy hose. The fill plug on the PTU is on the passenger side, accessible, but not easily due to being close to a steel brace. my real plan is to drill and tap the bottom of the case for a plug, but you have to drop the Y pipe to gain unfettered access to the bottom of the PTU and without a lift to work on, its a bit of a PITA.. this album on photo bucket (not mine) shows a lot of pictures of the unit, tear down, and location for the drill and tap to install a drain plug in the PTU http://s159.photobucket.com/user/the_natrix/library/Ford%20Edge%20PTU
  14. Fusion Sport AWD Maintenance

    On further examination, it is possible that the apparent leaks are from the vent on the top of the case, and not a seal.. but working on ramps does not make for great visibility so i cant be sure. because of the fill plug's orientation to the rest of the case, and being partially obstructed internally by a gear, i could not get a tube down into the sump to suck it all out, but after topping it up and taking a 150 mile ride, and using a smaller OD hose, i did manage to pump out about 6ozs and refill again. What came out was black nasty sludge, and the magnet on the plug was caked with material again.. The upshot of all this is that the average fuel economy is up almost 3MPG, and the PTU is still under warranty, so if the leak persists i have some recourse..
  15. Fusion Sport AWD Maintenance

    Just want to offer my experience here on the PTU "lifetime" service today (49,695 mi) i did my oil change and diff and PTU fluids. oil was nice, but it was an early change since i bought it from a dealer used with 43,000 on it, a fresh oil change, but who knows what oil they put in it ( i use mobil 1 in everything.. its cheap insurance imho) when i pumped out the diff oil it was barely colored at all from original condition.. that was good to see. The PTU was a different story all together. There is an obvious leak from the side that appears to mount to the transaxle, and from the case seam near the right side CV output. The plug had a 1/4" of magnetic sludge stuck to it, and when i tried to pump out any existing fluid, i got nothing. Knowing the unit takes 12ozs to fill, i put in 8ozs before any started coming back out.. and what came out was pristine fluid with ribbons of what looked like asphalt.. i expect to drive it a bit tonight and pump it out tomorrow, and refill again. Bottom line, if you have an AWD model, laughingly disregard their assurance that the PTU is a lifetime fill, and consider servicing it at least every 40,000miles If you are a bit anal about this sort of thing like I am, you'd probably want to do every 30,000 max, maybe every 20,000 if you have a very heavy foot like i do.. now i'm wondering about cost and availability of PTUs, as well as time to do the job...