Jump to content

sirtanon

Fusion Member
  • Content count

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About sirtanon

  • Rank
    Forum Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Mountain
  • My Fusion
    2010

Recent Profile Visitors

303 profile views
  1. 2010 / 2011 Steel Wheel Owners ! Inventory Lug Nuts

    Maybe I'm lucky. I bought some nice alloy wheels shortly after I bought my 2010 in 2014.. including new slim lug nuts. No problems since. When you're replacing these lug nuts, are you just using the standard Ford-issued replacements? If so, why not go with some better aftermarket lug nuts?
  2. I agree with eGuru in regards to the intervals. Your engine can easily handle 10,000 mile oil change intervals on a good synthetic oil. As it stands, I've run synthetic blends and High-mileage oils out to past 8,000 miles without any detriment. Then again, I drive a LOT of miles. For your mileage, if you stick to conventional oil, synth-blend, or high-mileage oil, you should be able to just do it once per year. Doing your Transmission fluid change at 60,000 miles is a good place to start, especially considering how long it will take to reach that target. At that point, you're looking more at the age of the trans fluid compared to mileage. I would like to also point out that doing a trans _FLUSH_ is generally a very bad idea.. but doing a drain-and-fill of the trans fluid is definitely a good idea. The typical "trans flush" process used by many shops can cause problems. The trans is actually set up to very easily do a DIY drain and fill. There's a drain plug on the bottom. What I do is let it drain fully, and then replace the same amount of drained fluid with Motorcraft Mercon LV fluid ( Valvoline MaxLife trans fluid works very well too). For the record, I have a 2010 Fusion SE with the 2.5 engine as well, and it is due to hit 248,000 miles this weekend. My regimen is ~7,500 miles per oil change (which for me is about 3 months), and 22,000-25,000 miles per trans fluid drain-and fill.
  3. New owner, OBD question

    My guess is either it is, or was, connected to some kind of OBD-II monitor or aftermarket bluetooth/wireless reader.. could be one of those OBD-II extension cords that you can get to run the port up to a more convenient location.. ..such as one of these on Amazon. If yours is a 2010, then the first place I'd look is in the little cargo hatch in the middle of the dash, and if I found nothing there, I'd check the center console or the glovebox.
  4. ...says the person posting on a Ford Fusion forum..
  5. I was having the exact same problems with my 2010 Fusion as you, and lived with it until it happened for the 3rd time. My Fusion had about 225,000 miles on it and was still running on the factory original Throttle Body, so I figured it was definitely time to replace it. Don't mess with an aftermarket/3rd-party throttle body - Go for the genuine Ford product. I bought mine here: Ford DS7Z-9E926-D Electronic Throttle Body It has actually come down in price since I bought mine, and is currently only about $50 and change (wow!)... Snap it up now and get it swapped out. I haven't had the problem once since I swapped mine, and it's an _EASY_ job.. took me less than 30 minutes. Also, to swap it out, you'll need to pull off part of the airbox, which contains the MAF. Get a can of CRC MAF Cleaner and carefully clean your MAF while you've got it apart. A few notes - Absolutely make SURE that you do not put your finger anywhere near the throttle body 'butterfly' - It's VERY strong and can potentially cause serious injury if it activates. This video is technically for a Ford Escape, but since the engine and TB are the same for the Escape and Fusion, it may as well be a video on doing it for the Fusion too: Best of luck!
  6. Rear Wheel Bearing

    My 2010 has 240,000 miles on it, and while my right front bearing is now showing some play and thus in need of replacement, I'm still on the factory original rear bearings. I have never heard of any Fusion needing multiple wheel bearing replacements like that before, so I'd say that this is not a systemic issue, but rather specific to your vehicle, your mechanic, or something in your environment. Improper installation methods would absolutely cause replacement bearings to fail quickly. Any kind of damage introduced during installation would cause the bearing to fail pretty quickly, IMHO. If a bearing is being pressed into the hub, but the pressure is not uniform, or is on the inside race only, then it would definitely screw things up. If the bearing is pounded in with a hammer.. that would do it. If the surfaces are not clean, that would also do it. The first question that comes to mind, however, is "do you have any kind of wheel spacers or non-standard wheel offsets in use on that car?" My next question is "Have you lowered it, or in any other way change your suspension characteristics?"
  7. My first thought is the bearing is probably starting to go. The easiest way to tell is to jack up the front of the car so that the wheels are completely off the ground, and then try to 'shake' the tires/wheels both back and forth and up and down. If the bearings are good, there should be ZERO play in the wheels.. if there is ANY movement at all, then the odds are extremely good that your bearing for that wheel is going out. Some bearings won't actually induce play into the wheel at all, but can still be bad. For these, you can tell by jacking the car up, or putting it on a lift, and getting the wheel moving, either by hand, or via the engine, such as in this video by Eric the car Guy: (please note that putting the car in drive while it is jacked up CAN be dangerous, so make sure you take precautions. I have been suspecting that one or more of my bearings on my 2010 Fusion is starting to go.. slight feeling, slight noise.. I checked this past Sunday, and sure enough, the passenger front wheel has about 2 millimeters of play in it.. Time to order a new bearing/hub assembly. I was REALLY hoping it would be a rear bearing, and not a front one. Rears are both much cheaper, and MUCH easier to replace.
  8. 2012 Ford Fusion "Growling Noise"

    Even cheaper if you check around: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-pulley_al8z-10344-a.html - Only $120 Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Ford-AL8Z10344A-Pulley/dp/B01FL4BOX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505945088&sr=8-1&keywords=AL8Z10344A - $100
  9. 6F35 to G6M manual swap?

    Ah.. yeah you might be on to something. One of the first things I did after I bought my Fusion (used) was to replace the Belt Tensioner. Man, was that sucker LOUD. Passed a fair bit of vibration through at certain speeds to. The part was only about $43, and took about 90 minutes to replace, and I had never done it before, so I went slow.
  10. Good morning everyone. As some of you know, I had some work done on my engine back in April, which involved removal of the head and replacement of one of the exhaust valves on cylinder 1. That was approximately 11,000 miles ago, and now, 2 oil changes ago. Many of you also know that I get regular used oil analysis done on the used oil that I've drained, to see how things are wearing inside the engine. Just gives a better idea of whether or not anything is problematic inside the engine. Interestingly enough, the UOA I got done prior to the engine work I had done was one of the reasons I brought it in. Anyways, following the work, I changed out the post-service oil at just under 3,000 miles, to help get some of the early wear metals, particulates, etc.. out, as well as to make sure nothing was wrong after the work.. and aside from some elevated Aluminum, Iron, Copper, and Silicon, things were good.. and these elevated numbers were still pretty low, and to be expected following top-end work. Cut to my most recent change, performed a couple weekends ago @ just under 238,000 miles.. The numbers have gone down even more, so I'm feeling pretty good about things. Thought I'd share them with you guys. Of course, I welcome any comments, etc..
  11. New stubby antenna on 2011

    I barely even notice the standard 10" antenna that came stock on my car, so I can't see going through the trouble of replacing it with something even shorter.. but this kind of thing is personal preference, so to each his own. I'm curious to know how going shorter has affected your reception.
  12. There's a known issue with a range of years of the Fusion and the wrench light, having to do with the throttle body. There's actually a TSB on it. If I remember correctly, there's another TSB concerning the transmission in a few years of the Fusion as well. You need to figure out what the actual problem is. The first thing I would do is try to get a code from the system. If you don't have the ability to do that, then I'd reach out to your local Ford dealership and see if they can help you pin down the cause.
  13. Poor mileage - Engine Tuning?

    With mileage like that, chip tuning would probably make matters worse.. and at the very least will end up doing nothing. If my car was acting like that, the first thing I would do is standard maintenance work, like checking/replacing the plugs, injectors, exhaust, etc.. The 2010 Fusion uses computer control, so there really is no "adjusting the timing" as it's all calculated by the ECU. Also, check your air filter, tire pressure, engine compression, brakes to make sure they're not dragging, wheel bearings, etc..
  14. When was the last time you did a trans fluid drain & fill? If you've never done this, or had it done, then this could definitely be part of the issue.
  15. 6F35 to G6M manual swap?

    I know I also posted in your other thread about the interchangeability.. but since you said this here, I figure I'll respond here. The grinding you're talking about - Is it kind of a low rumble-y grinding at highway speeds, or is it more of a "metal-on-metal" .. 'crunchy' kind of sound that is even noticeable at low speeds, or only at certain times? I ask because I'm starting to notice what I suspect is a wheel bearing/hub going out.. which I first was a little concerned might be trans, since there was also some change in feeling happening at certain speeds. I notice it most under acceleration and higher speeds on the highway. For yours - if you had to take a stab at where the grinding sound is coming from, would you say centered in the engine compartment, or would you say more towards the right or left side? Also - When was the last time you did a drain & fill on your 6F35's trans fluid? Doing this might tell you if there's a problem.. especially if you find a lot of metal bits in the drained fluid.
×