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alanreid02

Heater Blower Motor stops and starts

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Hi all,

2012 Fusion SEL 3L Auto, 64K miles

Blower motor for heater will sometimes work and sometimes not. It does not seen to be fan speed specific. When it does work, all speeds work. When it doesn't work, none of the speeds work.

While checking for loose wires, I found that when I wiggle the connector that the blower motor wires run into on the firewall, the blower motor will start. I also noticed that when the blower motor works and is on higher speeds, the connector that the blower motor wires runs into on the firewall is very hot, as in almost too hot to touch. Another set of wires, also in the same connector run off to somewhere else.

I disconnected the connector and removed the module that it was connected to. Rectangular box, aluminum heat sink fins on the back, 5 terminal for the connector with one being longet than the other 4. Lettered A,B,C,D and E.

Lots of numbers on the label,

EBJXA

8546

52418546

8E5H-19E624-A

Bought the car used and don't have a manual for it yet.

Would this be the blower motor resistor? My other cars never had automatic climate control, so it may be something more sofisticated than that.

Any suggestions on what to check to see why I get intermitant blower operation and also the very hot connector?

 

Thanks for any help,

Alan

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Kinda of a common thing, what that part is, by description and engineering stamp (Man. Part#) is your blower motor speed contoller. Simplest terms is a non atc (automatic temp control) uses a standard resistor. An atc unit uses the speed contoller which acts like a resistor in a way. But does control blower speed. Get replaced soon cause when it goes bad it can tend to ruN hot and will melt the connector and wires. Simple fix in a way. Service part# should be 8E5Z-19E624-A might supercede #s but that will get u started.

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^^^ what he said. The ATC speed controller does the same thing, but uses different types of electronics to do it, hence the huge box with the heatsink and everything I'd like to add to check the connector itself very carefully check it over at the speed controller and make sure the connector pins themselves fit nice and tightly to the controller. Loose connections cause extra resistance, and that resistance causes extra heat. I believe that connector is available as a pigtail replacement if its necessary. If you find any problems with the connector, I recommend replacing it too. If the connector is damaged and not fixed too, you can just about guarantee the problem will happen again.

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I am having a similar problem. When we took the blower motor resister out we noticed melting on the plastic connector and one of the prongs fell out. We ordered a replacement blower motor resister and when we installed it the blower/fan still won't blow. We have checked all the fuses we can think of that may possibly be causing this and they are all good. So according to this post I need to replace my ATC speed controller?

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Kinda of a common thing, what that part is, by description and engineering stamp (Man. Part#) is your blower motor speed contoller. Simplest terms is a non atc (automatic temp control) uses a standard resistor. An atc unit uses the speed contoller which acts like a resistor in a way. But does control blower speed. Get replaced soon cause when it goes bad it can tend to ruN hot and will melt the connector and wires. Simple fix in a way. Service part# should be 8E5Z-19E624-A might supercede #s but that will get u started.

 

Can anybody tell me if 8e5z-19e624-a would work as a replacement for my 8e5h-19e624-a? Is the 8e5z a compatible upgrade to the 8e5h?

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Looks like this is a big issue with the connector. I have a 2012 Fusion with 55,000 miles. I am changing the resistor and harness/connector today.

My problem was the blower was not working. Checked the fuse OK. I wiggled the connector to the resistor replaced the fuse and the blower worked OK. I thought the connector may have been loose. My wife drove the car the next day to work and she said it quit again and smelled something burning. I turned the blower on and it would not run so I pushed on the connector and it started. I let go and it quit. I pushed on it again and held it to keep it running. I had to let go because it would have burned my finger. I Disconnected the battery, disconnected the harness and removed the resistor. Found the two wires in the connector on the resistor from the blower were shorting together and burnt the connector and the connections to the resistor. I am using Motorcraft replacement parts. I am concerned the OEM parts are not adequate. 55,000 miles seem low to be having this problem. Other vehicles I have owned it was 100,000 miles or more and normally it was the resistor only and didn't pose a fire hazard. Not sure why the fuse didn't fail??? It is a 60 amp. Seems to me the #14 stranded wire should be protected at 20 amp?

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