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so my FORD FUSION 2011 2.5L DOHC 4 cylinder model SE has been experiencing issues. I will start by numerical order of the issue since buying it December 2nd 2016.



heres a short version of what I am experiencing


-recall on the purge valve was botched I believe because:::

-since leaving ford the car violently shakes from time to time.

-Since leaving ford I went from 440 miles per tank down to 390 per tank or less

-since leaving ford my CHECK FUEL FILL INLET light will not stop flashing on a day to day basis

===============OTHER ISSUES OCCURING both before and after ford recall was performed=======================

-loss of power down to 15-20mph going uphill, car makes a PEW PEW PEW sound and RPMS shoot up very high and violent.

-gears slap hard when downshifting, but since changing spark plugs this has gotten much better, just hasn't fixed the issue.

-when the gears slip, it is usually between 3 and 4. but usually it fluxuates between the gears and they all slip at times.

-sometimes the gears wont even shift, and I'm going like 60mph in 2nd gear.

-loss of power to the point of having a max speed of 20-60mph depending on the incline

-sometimes car "floats" at 2rpms and maxes out at 60mph and wont shift up or down or accelerate at all.

-sometimes it doesn't accelerate at all, and only violently surges the RPMS at 2500 all the way up to 4000.

-loud tapping/ticking/clicking noise coming from engine now after putting synthetic oils

-twice it has slapped so hard on the downshift that I jerked forward

-flashing check engine light the day after overfilling gas tank

-rough idle, very rough

-car makes some weird noises at times that I cant really verbalize

-use to have a high idle, haven't noticed this since changing spark plugs

-slaps in and out of gears ( D, R, N, L, P) especially in and out of Reverse!!!

- WOMP WOMP WOMP rotating sound, noise while reversing and also while driving 30mph (after full synthetic oil change switch from syn-blend)


HELP!! I tried to break it down to this brief synopses but the full version is below. thank you for your time!





-changed the spark plugs, gear shifting very smooth on upshift but still slips,

-gear shifting down has decreased the force of the slapping, so it has gotten better, but not really.











problem 1: gears slip when upshifting. Will rev a little harder until eventually slapping into gear. I usually let off the gas and butterfly it back to what seems like normal driving conditions.


problem 2: gears violently knock or slap out of gear, the downshift is rough still to this day but has gotten better with light maintenance.


problem 3: I took it to ford on December 6th 2016 for the recall

  • Recall Announced NOVEMBER 24 2015
  • NHTSA Reference #15V793000
  • Number Affected 411,205

[[[[[summary: Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain model year 2010-2011 Ford Fusion vehicles manufactured July 21, 2008, to March 4, 2011, and 2010-2011 Mercury Milan vehicles manufactured July 23, 2008, to December 10, 2010. The affected vehicles have fuel vapor canisters whose purge valves may not operate properly resulting in abnormal pressure changes in the fuel tank.

Consequence: The pressure changes may cause the tank to crack and leak fuel. A fuel leak in the presence of an ignition source increases the risk of a fire.]]]]


Since leaving the dealership, my car feels as if there is a pressure issue when I step on the accelerator. It just feels as if there is not enough getting to where it needs to go because some days I can accelerate with no issue up to 60-80mph. Then some days it takes me up to 5 minutes on the Highway to get up from 40 to 50 to 60 mph with my hazards on trying to dodge death. It just will not accelerate. I call it Frank cause its like an old ass man, takes forever to get the up and has some serious power loss.


Another issue I have noticed is that my CHECK FUEL FILL INLET light has not shut off since I left the dealership for that recall. As soon as I started my vehicle and turned out the Ford lot, my car violently shaked as if it were about to fall apart right there. When I eventually ran out of gas, and since this recall 'repair', I get 50 less miles per tank. I use to get 440 miles easy! now I get less than 390 every time. I tried switching to the mid grade gasoline from the regular and there was no significant benefits noticed, so I switched back to regular unleaded always from ampm or shell or chevron.


Most days I drive now, I end up losing power. It might max out at 60mph at 2rpms but it feels like its floating on a cloud, and even when I accelerate it just feels like I'm just opening a faucet and everything is going out but not reacting to make the MPH increase. at a certain point, the RPMS SHOOTS UP violently, but since changing the oil and spark plugs, it does not reach 4rpms. It just sounds very violent when it surges at a steady 2500-3500 rpm. usually 3000 or less. I end up losing power down to 40 mph when it happens. and going up hill I end up going 20mph. when I go up hill it makes a PEW PEW PEW noise at times, (((in my head it sounds like valves are bursting from hot pressure ))) One day it dropped me down to 15mph going up hill and was struggling so bad but the rpms were like 4000!


About a week after that I was driving on the highway and all of a sudden my check engine went off after doing the normal power loss issue. The check engine was flashing! I decided to pull over and let the car cool off as soon as I hit my exit. it flashed until the next day when I went to check the issue and it came up as a LARGE EMISSIONS LEAK, purge valve. code p4055 Is this because I over filled my gas the day before and some of it started to leak? (I tried to put the full 40$ and it only needed like 39$ and it over filled and leaked out some, the next day, this issue came on with this light....since resetting the light, the check engine light no longer has returned]


MAINTENANCE:::At this point I decided to change my oil and filters out. I changed my cabin air and engine air filters with the WORX brand. I changed my oil with 5w20 high mileage Castrol synblend.

I also changed out my spark plugs with the IRIDIUM spark plugs​ that orielys recommended. I am not sure if all of the spark plugs were gapped correctly by the mechanic installing them. There was also air blasted into the open valve with the cylinder removed because there was a slight film of oil on the spark plug tube as well as the cylinder. it was not flooded but #4 (farthest right) had fresh oil buildup, so it was air blasted and cleaned.

--#1 (farthest left) cylinder was bone dry and clean! after that #2 and #3 had these burnt crispy looking tan "woodchips" caked all over the inside of the engine!!! what could this be? someone please confirm.

--I replaced all 4 cylinders, and fired the car up. Almost Immediately the vehicle started smoking! giant cloud of smoke! from the engine and the tailpipe as well. But after 5 minutes it all went away. I was led to believe that it was the excess lubricant used on the spark plugs in packaging. someone please confirm.


---After this part I ran it for 4000 miles before changing the oil again.




I thought I could use Full synthetic 5w20. I used Castrol high mileage edge full syn 5w20, and a quart of 5w20 magantec cause of the cold weather out here. IS THIS A NO?

I started to run the vehicle on the highway right after the oil change.

max speeds at 70mph, felt like the wile coyote trying to chase the roadrunner after he already ran off the cliff. It feels like its just spinning too fast through the lower viscosity oil. I think its so thin that the revolutions are too fast for the thin oil and doesn't allow me my maximum potential. I also noticed it was a little low so I had to throw [.2 quarts of 0w20 full synthetic] to put it at the right level. Still ran terrible! now it is making a loud ticking/clicking/tapping noise on idle and when it runs! and is much rougher on the idle and everything else. Pressure issue still occurring and the fuel fill inlet light wont stop coming on. Main questions (should I not have used synthetic oil) (how does switching oil viscosity and types effect performance)


I am about to now change out my oil with the 5.2 quarts of high mileage Castrol syn blend like I have always used and had no problems with. this time I am using a motorcraft filter. I am experiencing issues still with pressure. It felt like the pressure was too high...like a fire hose trying to make it through a bendy straw when I stepped on the accelerator....

took me like 5 minutes to get up to speed and it didn't want to go over 60-70mph at all and will only surge the rpms violently (But doesn't pass 2500/3000 usually, just sounds like the devil!)


HELP! anything helps.

I think I should change the gaskets under the valve cover for sure, maybe even the valve cover gasket! I cant find any leaks coming from anywhere! I have had all my basic level mechanics check out my car and test drive it and they think it could be the transmission...but ford and the internet and my intuition tells me is a bunch of other things....

probably might change the whole thing, spark plug wires, spark plugs again, tranny flush, valve cover gasket and the under gaskets, do a nice cleaning and maybe even an engine flush... is all this necessary for what I have explained? I have tried to give every exact issue that came up and every bit of info I think helps... makes a lot of weird noises some times

the other night it made a nasty WOMP WOMP WOMP noise that continued thruought the night.... Sounded like its coming from the front end but has a rotating sound to it...are my pistons working to hard? torque converter out of wack? who knows without looking at the thing right? even if you did look, I think you'd have to gut it and test it to really understand because there is no check engine lights or any leaks present! help. thank you for taking the time to read all of this if you did. Hope this sheds light for those with the same issues as me.


thank you and take care




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The hard shifting is a known problem. There is newer software available that makes a major improvement. Instead of a neutral-drop shift and then confused shifting for awhile, it does a 'power hold' for a bit, then thumps into gear, with little effect on shifting after that. That will only happen one or twice anyways, as it will quickly get back to normal.


For my 2011, it's listed as TSB 11-9-9 when it was updated in April 2014 (I bought the car used December 2013).

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Thank you Andy! I think you are right cause it doesnt seem to be an issue but it doesnt do it in other cars i drive.



Does anyone have any information upon calibration or relearning procedures on a GAS 2.5l fusion 2011?


potentially for any regarding the sensor in the bottom right corner of the valve cover. I removed the wire tab and then the 8mm screw and took it off the old cover to place onto the new one and torqued it down and i heard it needs recalibration....and i think so because it will not shift or accelarate properly now! takes forever to reach a max speed of 65mph. problems never happened before this exchange!

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Personally I have a pretty hard and fast rule, when ever buying any NEW OR USED car to always avoid at LEAST the first 3 years of any new major re-design. And instead actually SEEK OUT one of the LAST years of a "re-design", (hence my new 2017) (I'm betting the FUSION's next major-make-over-first-year-of will be 2019). All that said, 2011 was actually 2nd to the last year of that design-build. So I'm a little surprised it was so f'd up. STILL There was a lot of new(ish) technology in that year. File this under (my) dumb-luck, my previous new-buy was an '07 Focus SES, and this is true, the BIG reason I passed on the FUSION that year, (I looked at it because I REALLY WANTED the "trip-computer") but I had to pass because, no-joke, I totally hated the big toothy-looking flat-chrome-bar grill. (also it was just the 3rd year of the U.S. Fusion, period), anyway, Just dumb luck. The Focus was a total JOY of no problems. (and I kinda abused it too)

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I bought one of the first 2006 Fusions off the truck in the fall of 2005. In 7 years I had to replace the driver's door handle ($60 and about 20 minutes) and I had to remove and clean out the hvac blower. That's it.


Then I traded it for a 2013 with tons of problems (all fixed with a couple of dealer visits).


You just never know.

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REf: your '06 experience, agreed, you never know. point taken.

But as for the 2013, wasn't that year-0ne of the current base-design?, (first year of the sexy grill?), For my money the current 2017 Fusion is one of the best looking Fords in 20 years. (Mustangs included)


My 2017 pretty much HAS TO BE a good girl. I'm in Italy (with the U.S. military) which is how I even HAVE a "U.S. spec" vehicle. BAD NEWS is the local Italian FORD dealer while TECHNICALLY obligated to provide service isn't required to do so "with a smile". (and they don't), The nearest "authorized" service center affiliated with the DEALER I purchased it from is in GERMANY. I'll be doing all my own routine maintenance. Good "Auto-Crafts" place on base here, ASE certified tech to assist, 4 or 5 drive-on lifts and 2 or 3 that let the wheels hang-type. So... routine maint-wise not concerned. What you had with your 2013... that would be not good.

Edited by 2ndNewFordGuy

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2013 was not just year one of the new design - it was year 1 of a new platform (based on the European mondeo). All 3 new vehicles that were derived from European platforms (Fusion, Escape and Focus) had problems the first year or two. Part of that is just that's an all new platform for North American factories, but I just don't think the Euro designs were as good as the previous ones as well as supplier issues.

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