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55w HID, driver side headlight problems


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8 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   JLMax16

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 01:58 PM

Installed a 55w DDM Tuning HID kit. It's the newest model with the error correctors or CanBus. Install went fine, pretty easy. Grounded the ballasts to the cross member over the radiator, ground off the paint down to bare metal and used self tapping screws.

Passenger side headlight fires everytime, absolutely no issues. The drivers side will NOT fire every time. Maybe one in ten. I have to cycle the headlights repetitively until hopefully it kicks on, sometimes it doesn't. I've checked and I've had the dealership check the headlight wiring, everything is perfect. DDM is stumped, they keep giving me new ballasts to try, which they all have the same issue. Anyone have any ideas?







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#2 OFFLINE   sirtanon

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 02:36 PM

The problem with most 55w HID kits is that the ballasts actually pull an initial 'burst' higher than 55w.  As a result, the lighting system has a hard time keeping up.

 

From your description, it sounds like you have not installed a dedicated wiring harness for the lighting.  If this is the case, I suggest that you make installing one a VERY high priority.  If you don't, you run the risk of overloading your system and causing long term problems.

 

This is why, when I installed HID in my 2010 Fusion, I went with the 35w kit.  This way, when it first fires, it's still pulling less than 55w.


  • WWWPerfA_ZN0W likes this

#3 OFFLINE   Frank F

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 02:38 PM

Installed a 55w DDM Tuning HID kit. It's the newest model with the error correctors or CanBus. Install went fine, pretty easy. Grounded the ballasts to the cross member over the radiator, ground off the paint down to bare metal and used self tapping screws.

Passenger side headlight fires everytime, absolutely no issues. The drivers side will NOT fire every time. Maybe one in ten. I have to cycle the headlights repetitively until hopefully it kicks on, sometimes it doesn't. I've checked and I've had the dealership check the headlight wiring, everything is perfect. DDM is stumped, they keep giving me new ballasts to try, which they all have the same issue. Anyone have any ideas?

My question is why?  Are the headlamps in the 2014 that bad?


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#4 OFFLINE   Rfredal31

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Posted 17 April 2017 - 03:16 AM

Like said above you need a dedicated wiring harness that connects directly to the battery, only sure fire way to have reliable HID's in a non HID equipped vehicle. 



#5 OFFLINE   timwil56

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Posted 17 April 2017 - 03:11 PM

I too wonder why, but that's covered in another post. When you say you cycle the headlights repetitively, I hope you're waiting a couple of minutes between shutting off and turning on the headlamps. HID's heat up very quickly and require a cooling down before being turned back on. This rapid on off cycle is very bad for the lamps and will dramatically shorten the bulbs life span.


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#6 OFFLINE   thefoeyouknow

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 05:30 AM

Get a 6800uF 50v capacitor for each ballast.  You're feeding the ballasts a pulse width modulated signal for power, and they don't like it.  Also, 55w is a poor choice for ANY HID install, there are several reasons why, you're dealing with at least one of them.  On your car, you  don't need CAN-BUS adapters or ballasts, because they also add load.  You have to understand what the term can-bus means, it means that the system monitors current draw to determine the health of the light bulb and circuit.  If draw is low, it thinks the bulb is out; if it's high, it thinks there is a short.  When the BCM flags either of these conditions, it disables the circuit as a protection measure.  Can-bus also means that the module controls brightness through the process of pulse-width modulation, which means it's cycling the power on and off at a high frequency with a transistor, rather than just grounding a relay on that supplies clean power from the battery.  THIS is how ballasts die in newer cars.  THAT is can-bus.  If someone tells you a ballast includes can-bus hardware they're full of shit.  A can-bus adapter includes a load resistor and a capacitor.  The load resistor increases current draw so the module doesn't get the idea that the bulb is out, and the capacitor cleans up the power.  With 55w ballasts, you're already at or near the current draw the module wants to see, so adding the load resistor can push the module into thinking there is a short by further raising draw.  All you need for your high contrast special is a suitable capacitor on each ballast to clean up the power.  You can do THIS, but in the few years since this post, I've started using 6800uF 50v caps.


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#7 OFFLINE   eGuru

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 07:06 AM

Doesn't look like the OP cares anymore as he/she hasn't been back to the forum since April 5.


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#8 OFFLINE   Mielikki

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 08:05 AM

I found it useful. I have a 2013 SE, and the stock headlights aren't bright enough for my preference. I don't want to go overboard, but a bump in light output would be nice to me.



#9 OFFLINE   JLMax16

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 10:37 AM

Looks like I may have solved the issue. I redid the ground and it seems to work ok now. I had ground off the paint, but I went and ground off deeper into the metal and it seems to work now.

I couldn't do the dedicated wiring harness and relay because it caused the vehicle to throw codes, same with the capacitor.

Lesson learned. Make the ground the best ground in the world.




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