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GhostRider

Burned tail lights?

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On my wife's 2010 Fusion, The taillight bulbs on the right don't seem to last as long as the ones on the left. I looked at them both and they are burned. I attached a pic. What's the deal??

post-18337-0-85288500-1492966480_thumb.jpg

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Suggest you get new sockets otherwise the contacts will continue to overhead and cause the bubs to fail prematurely.

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Got a price and part #??

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Do you have a computer and access to the internet? A Google search comes up with 25,100 results.

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Do you have a computer and access to the internet? A Google search comes up with 25,100 results.

Thanks for the help :detective:

 

To help anyone else who needs it, I will be more helpful (It is why we are here right?) instead of looking at 25,100 results, here is the info per Ford:

 

Stop Lamp Bulb Socket

9E5Z-13411-B

 

Sucks they retail for over $20 each! Yikes!

 

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Thank you ghost Rider my 211 just started doing this! Appreciate the assist and the time it took you to look through 25,100 results.

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Keep in mind parts can be different even within the same year, so it's a little risky to just take somebody's word for the part # unless you verify it yourself online or by calling a dealer for your specific vehicle.

 

Benny at Levittown Ford is great. And you can find most parts at fordparts.com.

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One issue is that they use the simplest bulb, so the hot glass is in direct contact with the housing. A better design is what I've seen on other cars, where the bulb has a plastic base that then plugs into the socket. Not sure if it's directly compatible with the glass-only, or if you could replace the socket with a compatible one.

(Reference picture link to show what I am talking about. Bulb itself may not be a direct equivalent: http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/tail-light-mini-bulb/sylvania-tail-light-mini-bulb/493801_0_18269)

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Posted (edited)

If you replace the standard bulb with the Philips LED Vision 12835B2, they will run a lot cooler and not burn the sockets.

They are street legal and I am happy with the way they perform in my 2012.

 

Edit - You may also want to get the 18957B2 load resistors if you don't like the faster than normal flashing.

Edited by eGuru

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Just a thought. Overheating of lamps usually occur when the connecting point between the bulb and socket are not tight. This causes overheating (at the minimum) at the point where the loose contacts are lightly connected or possible arcing (at the worst) if current is high enough. This goes for any electrical connection. TIGHT IS RIGHT

 

Very important that you make sure the bulb is properly seated. Make sure to test the lamp to make sure it does not move (wiggle) within the socket before mounting back in the housing. By all means, Ghost, replace that socket. Overheating, will allow the metal connectors to loosen and move around and not allow a proper connection when lamps is inserted.

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Keep in mind parts can be different even within the same year, so it's a little risky to just take somebody's word for the part # unless you verify it yourself online or by calling a dealer for your specific vehicle.

 

Benny at Levittown Ford is great. And you can find most parts at fordparts.com.

Part # is from Tasca's website. Yes though, Benny is great!

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The bulbs are nice and tight in the socket, always have been. Thats why I am puzzled as to why this happens. I just dont want a fire. Might be time to switch to LED

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Just a thought. Overheating of lamps usually occur when the connecting point between the bulb and socket are not tight. This causes overheating (at the minimum) at the point where the loose contacts are lightly connected or possible arcing (at the worst) if current is high enough. This goes for any electrical connection. TIGHT IS RIGHT

 

Very important that you make sure the bulb is properly seated. Make sure to test the lamp to make sure it does not move (wiggle) within the socket before mounting back in the housing. By all means, Ghost, replace that socket. Overheating, will allow the metal connectors to loosen and move around and not allow a proper connection when lamps is inserted.

I don't think it's a seating problem. It's just the simple fact that the bulbs have a glass base. When fully seated, that hot glass transfers it's heat to the plastic. From what I've seen, it's mostly burned at the end, not near the connectors. I almost wonder if not quite fully seating it may work better, as that will give a bit of an air gap.

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I don't think it's a seating problem. It's just the simple fact that the bulbs have a glass base. When fully seated, that hot glass transfers it's heat to the plastic. From what I've seen, it's mostly burned at the end, not near the connectors. I almost wonder if not quite fully seating it may work better, as that will give a bit of an air gap.

 

The plastic at the inlet of the connector is probably discoloured due to radiated energy from the filament. Leaving an 'air gap' will probably do little.

If the contacts are still looking reasonable, I wouldn't bother changing the sockets even if standard bulbs are used instead of the Philips LEDs that I recommended in my earlier post.

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Posted (edited)

I wonder if some sort of small metal (or high-temp plastic or fiberglass) shield to help shade the plastic would help?

Edited by andyross

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