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juice

Shuddering / Vibration @ 40 MPH

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Hi everyone.

 

I told my story on the Welcome discussion page. Anyone have the same problem?

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Hi everyone.

 

I told my story on the Welcome discussion page. Anyone have the same problem?

Did you check your wheels' balance?

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Did you check your wheels' balance?

 

 

Thats what I thought but when it vibrates, I put it in neutral & it stops. Plus I had 2 fusions with the same problem. My guess would be the transmission. Do you know if both engines get the same Transmission ( 2.5 & 3.0 )?

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So did you let the dealer check it out at all, or just instantly trade it in for another Fusion? What did they say. It might help if there was more to your story.

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So did you let the dealer check it out at all, or just instantly trade it in for another Fusion? What did they say. It might help if there was more to your story.

 

I'm sorry, I'm new here. I posted my story on the Welcome forum. But anyway, from the top,

 

I purchased a 2010 I4 6sp auto in sept 2009. I had an issue with the air box not connected right, the famous ground wire that caused it not to start, The check engine light came on & finally the shudder @ 40 MPH. All of these problems were fixed by the dealer except the shuddering. They had the car two weeks & couldn't find a problem. When I picked up the car, it did it instantly @ 40 MPH. I took it right back to get the service manager to go for a ride with me driving. He noticed it but said the car had to learn my driving patterns. HA! What does that have to do with Shuddering/Vibrating @ 40 MPH. And yes I got p..sed off & went to another dealer April 2010 to get a new one. ( I'm a little hot headed ). This time, I got the SEL V6 3.0. LOVE THIS ONE BETTER!!! EXCEPT, I started having the same problem @ 40 MPH with 2000 miles ( same miles when I noticed it on the 2.5 ). I tried to see if there are any TSB's out there on this but was unsuccessful. The weird thing is when it vibrates, I put it in neutral & it stops. I'm bringing the car at the dealer monday but I wanted to have some info before I go. Any thoughts??

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Torque converter shudder maybe? It's about the right speed...

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Torque converter shudder maybe? It's about the right speed...

 

Is that normal for a car that is "learning" my driving habits or is that a serious problem?

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Well, I think you gave up pretty quickly on your first car. How much did you lose in the transaction? I know I couldn't throw cash around like that, and I have a pretty decent income. You're a fortunate person to be able to do that.

 

You still really aren't giving enough details. It's a mystery story with only a few clues. Does it shudder once at 40 mph then go away when you go faster? (Like a poor shift? The clue about this idea comes from your service mgr's statement.) Or does it start shudderring @40mph then get worse as you go faster? (From the clue that it goes away in neutral.) Do you feel it through the steering wheel, seat, everywhere? Is there a noise associated?

 

It could be a bad tire, that looks all right, and can balance, but will bounce down the road. I assume tire balancing was tried. Did they try to move the front tires to the rear and rear to front?

 

Anyways, the likelyhood of you getting 2 cars in a row like this are extremely slim, unless you unkowingly did something to the tires, tranny, or whatever. Like maybe you live somewhere that the only ways in and out of the neighborhood are over 8 sets of bad railroad tracks, and you never really noticed how fast you're passing everyone else as you go over them, or something like that? Or maybe your mom or a sibling borrows your car, and unbeknownst to you, they are a closet ricer, and drift your car all over the place or something.

 

Also, I don't know how much you use forums, but now, your opening story is in on thread, and your further details are in another. Hard for anyone to follow.

 

Good luck, and unlike many others who drop in on us with an unusual problem like this, plz keep us posted and let us know if there is a fix. You could help someone else at least, even if no one here knew how to help.

Edited by xmech2k

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Well, I think you gave up pretty quickly on your first car. How much did you lose in the transaction? I know I couldn't throw cash around like that, and I have a pretty decent income. You're a fortunate person to be able to do that.

 

You still really aren't giving enough details. It's a mystery story with only a few clues. Does it shudder once at 40 mph then go away when you go faster? (Like a poor shift? The clue about this idea comes from your service mgr's statement.) Or does it start shudderring @40mph then get worse as you go faster? (From the clue that it goes away in neutral.) Do you feel it through the steering wheel, seat, everywhere? Is there a noise associated?

 

It could be a bad tire, that looks all right, and can balance, but will bounce down the road. I assume tire balancing was tried. Did they try to move the front tires to the rear and rear to front?

 

Anyways, the likelyhood of you getting 2 cars in a row like this are extremely slim, unless you unkowingly did something to the tires, tranny, or whatever. Like maybe you live somewhere that the only ways in and out of the neighborhood are over 8 sets of bad railroad tracks, and you never really noticed how fast you're passing everyone else as you go over them, or something like that? Or maybe your mom or a sibling borrows your car, and unbeknownst to you, they are a closet ricer, and drift your car all over the place or something.

 

Also, I don't know how much you use forums, but now, your opening story is in on thread, and your further details are in another. Hard for anyone to follow.

 

Good luck, and unlike many others who drop in on us with an unusual problem like this, plz keep us posted and let us know if there is a fix. You could help someone else at least, even if no one here knew how to help.

 

 

I broke even on the deal with my new one. i wasn't going to get another one if it hurt me. I guess the $4500 in rebates & 0% ( good credit ) helped me out. i don't have money to throw around ( I wish, then I would've bought a Sport ). I actually had buyer's remorse anyway on the 4 cyl. I'm more of a V6 guy.

As for my problem, It vibrates all over with no noise associated @ 40MPH. It goes away gradually until I hit 50MPH. The tachometer reads between 1600 - 1800. It's not a poor shift, its steady in 5th gear. Shifts are smooth as silk. Tires were checked, balanced & rotated already with only 3300 miles on it. Slim that it may be to get 2 cars with the same problem, I guess thats just my luck right now. I'm the only one that drives my car & when I buy a new car, I baby it until it has 5000 miles on it.( Thats just my personal break-in period ). Never reached past 4000 rpm yet. Can't wait to throttle down. The 3.0 has some punch to her & love the slight growl. The shudder / vibration comes & goes, hot & cold, light to medium throttle. So you can see why I cannot pinpoint the problem. it would be nice to give the dealer a better clue before they tear my new car apart. I'll keep you updated if I find something out. I'm a diehard FORD FAN & still love my Fusion. CHICK MAGNET!!!!!!

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I would assume that the dealer checked but is it possible the rotors are warped? I had an Acura once that would get a vibration (maybe shudder) at a certain speed and when they machined the rotors and it went away. Of course I doubt putting it in neutral would make that go away.

 

Another thing, maybe not related, is I have a certain highway I drive on where the road surface has grooves and the Michelins on my SEL want to follow the grooves which causes a bit of back and forth feel in the steering. My previous car had similar Michelins so I know the issue.

 

Good luck on this.

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That's an idea, con_fusion, but warped brake rotors would only be felt while braking. I guess unless they were REALLY warped.

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That's an idea, con_fusion, but warped brake rotors would only be felt while braking. I guess unless they were REALLY warped.

 

Yeah, these are all good ideas and believe me when I say that I checked them all. The vibration isn't felt on the steering wheel, pedals, etc. It's felt through the whole car almost like the car has bad wheel bearings or something but when I put it in neutral, the car runs instantly smooth. An earlier post suggested torque converter. I'm bringing the car to the dealer monday. I was just wondering if anybody had the same problem out there. LOVE EVERYTHING ELSE ABOUT THE CAR. I've never had any problems like this on a FORD before, but when I see all the problems that Ford is having with this transmission, I'm beginning to wonder if they rushed this 6 speed auto into production!!!!

Edited by juice

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but when I see all the problems that Ford is having with this transmission,

 

Other than some cases of early clutch wear due to sticky valves, or something like that, supposedly fixed by the PCM reprogramming TSB, what other problems have there been with the transmission?

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Other than some cases of early clutch wear due to sticky valves, or something like that, supposedly fixed by the PCM reprogramming TSB, what other problems have there been with the transmission?

 

Well, the actual problem isn't sticky valves due to a computer problem, it's the fact that Ford bored the wrong size holes in the valve boby which causes low fluid pressure and they are trying to fix the problem with the computer ( Band-Aid ). There have been many cases where the same cars are getting 2 or 3 new transmissions put in them even after computer adjustment. It just seems like RUSHED PRODUCTION to me. But that said, I don't have any of these problems that everyone else has. I must have the right size holes in my valve body, but maybe it did something else to it when they made that adjustment @ the factory with no one testing it out first. Does anybody have a 2010 Fusion SEL V6 3.0 with a build date of March 2010 or later??

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Other than some cases of early clutch wear due to sticky valves, or something like that, supposedly fixed by the PCM reprogramming TSB, what other problems have there been with the transmission?

 

I have the 2010 I-4 SE. I had the entire transmission assembly replaced at 10,000 miles. At ~25,000 it started acting up again (right around the same time as the recall notice). It failed the load test, they replaced the valve body and clutches, and now it's going out again at around 28,000.

 

I'd say they have a problem.

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I have the 2010 I-4 SE. I had the entire transmission assembly replaced at 10,000 miles. At ~25,000 it started acting up again (right around the same time as the recall notice). It failed the load test, they replaced the valve body and clutches, and now it's going out again at around 28,000.

 

I'd say they have a problem.

 

You have the same issues as others do with the same I4 tranny which was BUILT & ASSEMBLED IN MEXICO. The 3.0 V6 has a DETROIT BUILT, ASSEMLED IN MEXICO tranny. Maybe they forgot to put the instructions in spanish to put these vehicles together right!!! LOL!!!

 

I'm disappointed in Ford. This is a great car except the connection with Mexico. But I'm still a diehard Ford fan.

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You have the same issues as others do with the same I4 tranny which was BUILT & ASSEMBLED IN MEXICO. The 3.0 V6 has a DETROIT BUILT, ASSEMLED IN MEXICO tranny. Maybe they forgot to put the instructions in spanish to put these vehicles together right!!! LOL!!!

 

That's interesting, because the Parts Content Information sticker on my I-4 says the transmission is of US Origin. Only the engine has an origin of Mexico shown.

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That's interesting, because the Parts Content Information sticker on my I-4 says the transmission is of US Origin. Only the engine has an origin of Mexico shown.

 

I'm 98% sure you are correct in that the transmission was manufactured in Michigan.

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I have the 2010 I-4 SE. I had the entire transmission assembly replaced at 10,000 miles. At ~25,000 it started acting up again (right around the same time as the recall notice). It failed the load test, they replaced the valve body and clutches, and now it's going out again at around 28,000.

 

I'd say they have a problem.

 

I was asking what other problems he was referring to.

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That's interesting, because the Parts Content Information sticker on my I-4 says the transmission is of US Origin. Only the engine has an origin of Mexico shown.

 

You're right, my mistake. We have an assembled in mexico car, mexican I4, U.S V6's, Jap 3.5 tranny, & a U.S I4 / 3.0 tranny.............. WOW>>>> Now that's diversified!!!!!!!! Oh, & don't forget the Hybrid that has a toyota CVT............!!

I did some research so I won't sound like an idiot on this forum!!!! ( if I didn't already ) LOL!!!

Edited by juice

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I was asking what other problems he was referring to.

 

Hard shifts, hesitations, computer glitches, wrong size valve body holes, slippage, won't shift, stuck gears................I've heard them all.... and now I did more research on my vibration problem and it sounds like the torque converter/stator but will not know untill I bring it in tomorrow......I also have some drag in 5th gear that is a sign of the torque converter / stator.....

 

( RUSHED PRODUCTION )

 

This 6F-50 tranny is almost the same 6F-35 used in 2007 Edge but with some changes to the torque converter / stator & software.......

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I was asking what other problems he was referring to.

 

 

You made it sound like it was some simple PCM fix, when in fact those are doing next to nothing. A complete replacement of the valve body and forward clutches didn't even get it fixed.

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I have the 2010 I-4 SE. I had the entire transmission assembly replaced at 10,000 miles. At ~25,000 it started acting up again (right around the same time as the recall notice). It failed the load test, they replaced the valve body and clutches, and now it's going out again at around 28,000.

 

I'd say they have a problem.

 

When they replaced your valve body and clutches at 25K, did they use a "Revision C" valve body? I believe the revision C valve body was being used in the Fusions/Milans etc. (assembled after the March date) and not included in the 10B15 Customer "disatisfaction" program. If they used the latest valve body for yours and it's going out 3K later then I'm concerned they don't have the issue pinned down.

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Oh, & don't forget the Hybrid that has a toyota CVT............!!

 

You sure about that? In the Fusion Hybrid?

 

Although it may use the same principles as the Toyota CVT (Actually a Power Splitting Device and not a CVT) I believe that the Fusion Transmission is totally engineered by Ford. :shift:

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You sure about that? In the Fusion Hybrid?

 

Although it may use the same principles as the Toyota CVT (Actually a Power Splitting Device and not a CVT) I believe that the Fusion Transmission is totally engineered by Ford. :shift:

 

Well, thats not the case for the fusion. The 6f35/ 6f50 was engineered in cooperation with GM beleive it or not. They just tweeked it in their own ways. Actually thats how most manufacturers do it today to save on engineering/development costs. The only trannys that are exclusive to ford are for their trucks. As for the hybrid, its sad to say that, yes, theres a little toyota DNA in your fusion.

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