wayoutthere007 Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 My 2011 Fusion 2.5L engine kicked a P0301 code (Misfire) on Cylinder 1. I purchased a set of plugs and a new coil pack for it. I searched the manual and Wiki but can't seem to find out if Cylinder 1 is on the passenger side or the drivers side. I would expect it to be on the passenger side but want to be sure. Do any of you have a shop manual and can tell me? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 #1 is always on the front of the engine, which is where the crank pulley is. So passenger side. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 Yes it is. WTH was I thinking! # 1 is always nearest the front of the crank (ie pulleys). Anyway, I replaced the Coil pack and all the spark plugs. Still kicks a P0301 code on #1. Injector maybe?? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Codes reset after the ignition repair? Try to use a screwdriver or something to listen if the injector is clicking like the others. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 I did reset the code. Twice. It'll stay off for a short time. I can feel the miss, the idle gets rough, and then the CEL comes back on. On some other Ford products they mention not enough pressure to the injector. Possible fuel pump or fuel filter. My car has 120k on it and I bought it with 110K. I don't know if the fuel filter has ever been changed. I'll change that next even if for preventative purposes. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Fuel filter is in the tank and is non-servacable I believe. After you confirm the injector is firing then you can check the fuel pressure. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 Well that's good to know - thanks. Saved me some time searching. I'll be doing two things first then: looking for any vacuum leaks and swapping the injectors from #1 and #2 and see if the code moves. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Update: I bought an OEM injector and replaced the #1 injector. Idle is still very rough and trips the CEL. So, it's not plugs, coil on plug, or injector. I did notice that a hose coming off the MAF area seems to be missing something at one end. Like a hold down or clamp is missing. Can you guys take a look at this pic and tell me if I'm missing something? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 If you're concerned, push down on that hose while the engine is running and see if it changes anything. Looks normal to me (that brass insert is not used). So I think we need to focus on doing some actual tests here instead of replacing parts. Otherwise you're going to keep wasting money. #1 Verify spark is being produced by #1 coil. Pull it out and use a spark tester or test light while cranking. #2 Verify #1 fuel injector pulse with a noid light or a test light. You can also listen for it clicking like I explained before. #3 Check for fuel pressure on the rail #4 If you're verified spark, injector pulse, and fuel pressure, then you need to do a compression test on all cylinders. Remember to do it the right way with the throttle open. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Will do. Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 (edited) I sprayed the intake with carb cleaner to see if it would smooth out the rough idle but it didn't seem to do that. I dropped it off to have a qualified mechanic take a peek. I'll let you know what he comes up with. Edited August 6, 2013 by wayoutthere007 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Yup, probably no vacuum leaks. We'll see what the mechanic finds. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Mechanic said that it showed a code for the crank sensor. He's looking into that and will let me know. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Fixed. The car showed a couple of different codes - one being the crank sensor and another being the misfire on cylinder 1. They brought the car to Ford and they diagnosed it for a couple of days and said it was a mechanical problem on Cylinder 1 and recommended a replacement engine. Ford stated that when Cylinder 1 was under pressure they detected a leak from the exhaust. The car went back to my mechanic and he did a compression test and found Cylinder 1 was around 170 while the others were around 180 (don't quote me on the numbers). He put a feeler guage on each valve and found a tight valve on Cylinder 1 - all other valves were within specs. He pulled the inside cam and popped the shim bucket and they shaved it down to bring the valve clearance in spec. The mechanice said that Ford told him that the shim buckets are not labelled or numbered, they have to be individually measured to get a replacement. That's why they just shaved the one we had. My mechanic speculated that the valve seat insert wasn't perfectly seated and over time was pushed into the head which gave it too tight a clearance. The car idles and runs perfect again. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 Oh - and as a bonus - my average MPG has gone from 26 to 28. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeadButDreaming Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 great news I am happy for you . I am still struggling with my u0100 & u2101 power steering has no power and doesn't return to the center 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1125rguy Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 My 2010 hybrid had po300 po303, po304 113,000 miles on it first real problem with car. Replaced all spark plugs inspected all coils and injectors. No visible issues. Swapped coils from 3 and 4 to cylinders 1 and 2. Swapped injectors the same way. Still have po 300, po303 po304. Egr valve is not stuck its insane how hard it is to get egr off the car with the electric motor right there in the way. So I took top off egr and the valve moved easily so it's not stuck open or closed. Cleaned the maf as well. I don't see a shreader valve to check fuel pressure anywhere. Bbut would like to test fuel pressure although I would think it would affect all the cylinders. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted October 7, 2019 Author Share Posted October 7, 2019 Oh man, I should have updated my results. The codes came back after the valve work and they put a scope in Cyl 1 and found it was a bad valve. They ended up swapping the motor as it was easier/cheaper than pulling the head and fixing. Problem solved. Pretty expensive but that was my issue. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtanon Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 Replacing the engine cheaper than pulling the head and fixing the valve(s) on one cylinder? I'd be shocked if it was really actually cheaper How much did they charge to replace the engine? I ask because I had a P301 on my 2.5 Fusion about 2.5 years ago which turned out to be a bad exhaust valve, and the dealership near me pulled the head and had a local machine shop replace the valve, etc.. and the whole thing cost me less than $1600. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayoutthere007 Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 (edited) The motor was $400 and the install was $800. Less hours in labor than having the head pulled, sent out to be repaired and put back together. These engines are a dime a dozen. Even the 3.5 I have in my 12 Sport hovers around $500 for a lower mile engine. Why would you have work done at a dealership - it's the most expensive place you could have brought it to. Edited October 10, 2019 by wayoutthere007 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtanon Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 Wow, that is cheap. I wish I could get them done that cheap here. There are no shops that I could find that would do an engine swap anywhere near that cheap, which is surprising considering all the places there are in Phoenix. I originally took it to the local dealership to have them do a Mode $06 scan to better diagnose the issue. I also know a number of people there, and they're a family-owned dealership rather than a huge chain. If I thought I could have gotten an engine swap done for cheap, I would have. $1200 was way out of the ballpark. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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