Tire Pressure sensor fault

[VonoreTn]

I am getting this display error, intermittently, but solidly after I drive 20 miles.  The tire air pressures are all 34-35 psi.  Once it comes on, it stays on all day, but is gone the next morning until I drive 20 miles.  Anyone know how to fix this without going to the dealer?

 

Edited February 25, 2021 by VonoreTn
error in title

[md40022]

A pressure sensor fault is different than the tire pressure actually being low. There are batteries in each of the 4 tire pressure sensors and over time those batteries go low and give this fault. Has nothing to do with the actual tire pressure being low.

 

It's kind of a pain in the butt, because in order to fix it the 4 sensors should be replaced, even if just 1 of them has a low battery the other 3 are probably close behind it. And in order to replace them the tire has to be taken off the rim and the valve stem area accessed. So unless you have access to that equipment, it's not a do-it-yourself fix

 

The best solution is addressing this the next time you replace your tires, since that area has to be accessed anyway at that point. If your tires are going to need replacing soon, then knock it out then. Otherwise, you're stuck either waiting it out or biting the bullet and having the work done.

[VonoreTn]

MD, thanks for your response.

 

Questions:

1. Can the batteries be replaced or do you have to buy a whole new tire pressure sensor?  $24+ at rock auto per tire.

2. Can I determine which tire it is by dropping the pressure to 15 psi in each tire, one at a time, and see which three give a warning signal of a low pressure, so it would be the one that didn't get that response?  I have a 7hp compressor in my garage.  But I can't change a tire.

3. Can I just turn the whole option off since I check my tire pressures regularly? 

 

 

[bbf2530]

1 hour ago, VonoreTn said:

MD, thanks for your response.

 

Questions:

1. Can the batteries be replaced or do you have to buy a whole new tire pressure sensor?  $24+ at rock auto per tire.

2. Can I determine which tire it is by dropping the pressure to 15 psi in each tire, one at a time, and see which three give a warning signal of a low pressure, so it would be the one that didn't get that response?  I have a 7hp compressor in my garage.  But I can't change a tire.

3. Can I just turn the whole option off since I check my tire pressures regularly? 

 

 

 

Hi Vonore. The information "md" gave you above is correct. But to answer your questions:

 

1- Unfortunately no. We need to replace the sensor itself.

2- Possibly. I've never heard of it being done that way, but that does not mean it can't. Only way to find out is to try.

3- No. It is a Federally mandated safety feature which can not be turned off.

 

When are you due for new tires? If you can wait until then, just wait and save the money on dismounting and remounting your current tires.

 

Also, keep in mind that for a number of years, the MKZ used a band type TPMS sensor, as opposed to the valve stem sensors used on later models. I am not sure exactly what year the changeover was made, if the change was made when the second generation arrived or earlier, etc. So be sure which ones your 2010 uses before purchasing.

 

Keep us updated and and good luck.

 

 

[md40022]

I own a 2010 myself and can tell you for fact that mine uses the valve stem sensors if that helps at all.

 

And I only know this because the dope who owned the car prior to me had new tires put on a few months before selling it, the tire pressure sensor failure light was present at the time of the tire change and the mechanic offered to change out the sensors while changing the tires.......... and the owner DECLINED because he didn't want to pay the extra.

 

So now I am the new owner, and have tires that are virtually new, and a TPS failure that I'm going to have to wait out foreverrrrrr AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!

[drolds1]

5 hours ago, VonoreTn said:

MD, thanks for your response.

 

Questions:

1. Can the batteries be replaced or do you have to buy a whole new tire pressure sensor?  $24+ at rock auto per tire.

2. Can I determine which tire it is by dropping the pressure to 15 psi in each tire, one at a time, and see which three give a warning signal of a low pressure, so it would be the one that didn't get that response?  I have a 7hp compressor in my garage.  But I can't change a tire.

3. Can I just turn the whole option off since I check my tire pressures regularly? 

 

 

TPMS battery life is anywhere from 5-10 years. Since your Fusion is 10+ years old, you've passed the expected battery lifespan.  While you might be able to isolate an individual wheel, the others can't be too far behind, and you'll only have to repeat the process.  You could always opt for the old black electrical tape placed over the warning message "fix." ?

[geopilot]

I have replaced 3 tire pressure sensors so far on my 2010 FFH due to failing batteries. First one in 2016 around 95K miles, and the most recent this week at 125K. All of mine have died in the winter- maybe cold temps are partly to blame. I used the Schrader 20315 TPMS Sensor (valve type) purchased from Amazon or RockAuto. Perfect fit and appears to be the OEM part. I had a tire shop install the new sensor for $10. To identify the correct sensor to replace you need to put the car in TPMS training mode and use the Motorcraft TPMS19 transmitter required to program/train the new sensor to the car. The wheel that does not respond to the transmitter is the dead one. Once the sensor is replaced you use the TPMS19 transmitter to sync the new sensor to the car in training mode. I'll attach the instructions for doing this. Pretty easy fix if you decide to do it yourself and have a tire shop to change out the sensor. Fault light and message will go away on its own.

 

TPMS instructions.pdf

[VonoreTn]

Geopilot,

Thanks for your response.  Do you think this less expensive TPMS19 will do the job?  That would save me probably an hour of letting pressure out of tires and bringing them back up to pressure.  There is a local tire shop that I had forgotten about, but 6 years ago he installed one new tire valve pressure sensor for me for $15.   I think I had bought it at rock auto. 

 

Before that, just before we were leaving for a drive trip to Colorado (1200 miles) , the warning light came on, and sure enough there was a puncture in the right rear tire, reading 20 psi, which I fixed at home.  As long as the puncture is in the tread zone, I have a 100% success rate at fixing them, with available tools that I'm sure you guys are aware of.  So that event which helped me avoid a highway failure makes me a believer in keeping these sensors active. 

 

[geopilot]

That aftermarket TPMS transmitter was not available when I bought the Motorcraft part, but seems to get good reviews. Definitely worth a try, and Amazon has easy returns if it doesn't work for you. Good luck!

[VonoreTn]

Does this procedure work on all cars, including my 2010 FFH?  It is not in my owners manual. 

 

[geopilot]

It is not a typical maintenance procedure performed by an owner, so not in the owner's manual. Since the FFH sensors are not specific to the wheel's position on the car, no need to re-program after a tire rotation. Like I mentioned above, I have used this procedure 3 times on my 2010 FFH.

[VonoreTn]

My TPMS sensor should arrive from Amazon tomorrow. ?

[VonoreTn]

Ok, my TPMS sensor arrived and I ran the procedure.  I ran it 3 times and got the same result.  The left 2 tires beeped the horn (tires 1 and 4 in sequence) , but the right 2 tires (tires 2 and 3 in sequence) did not beep the horn.  Does that mean I have 2 sensors that aren't responding?  

[bbf2530]

4 hours ago, VonoreTn said:

Ok, my TPMS sensor arrived and I ran the procedure.  I ran it 3 times and got the same result.  The left 2 tires beeped the horn (tires 1 and 4 in sequence) , but the right 2 tires (tires 2 and 3 in sequence) did not beep the horn.  Does that mean I have 2 sensors that aren't responding?  

 

Hi Vonore. Yes. If you performed the initiation procedure correctly, it would seem to indicate that they (or your Fusion) did not accept the programming.

 

Good luck.

[md40022]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what's going on here. But it seems like we are kind of over complicating a relatively simple situation. It seems like we have a low battery in one (or more than one) sensor. Being that the batteries in the sensors are probably all the same age, even if just one of them is failing the other 3 are probably right behind it. The sensors are relatively inexpensive, especially when you factor in any money spent on testing devices....

 

It seems like the two most practical options are buying all 4 sensors and replacing them now, or holding off until it's time for new tires and replacing all 4 sensors then.... Otherwise, with the time and money being invested in all the testing it kind of seems like a small and simple problem is turning into an overly complicated one. If all 4 batteries/sensors are the same age, and the car has many years on it, regardless of which one is failing now - they will all be failing soon enough. Save your own time and headaches and knock all 4 of them out. In the long run it will be cheaper and easier.

 

Maybe I'm totally misunderstanding things. If so, my apologies.

[bbf2530]

1 hour ago, md40022 said:

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what's going on here. But it seems like we are kind of over complicating a relatively simple situation. It seems like we have a low battery in one (or more than one) sensor. Being that the batteries in the sensors are probably all the same age, even if just one of them is failing the other 3 are probably right behind it. The sensors are relatively inexpensive, especially when you factor in any money spent on testing devices....

 

It seems like the two most practical options are buying all 4 sensors and replacing them now, or holding off until it's time for new tires and replacing all 4 sensors then.... Otherwise, with the time and money being invested in all the testing it kind of seems like a small and simple problem is turning into an overly complicated one. If all 4 batteries/sensors are the same age, and the car has many years on it, regardless of which one is failing now - they will all be failing soon enough. Save your own time and headaches and knock all 4 of them out. In the long run it will be cheaper and easier.

 

Maybe I'm totally misunderstanding things. If so, my apologies.

 

Hi md. It has been mentioned earlier in the thread that all the TPMS batteries will likely soon be dying. So your analysis that the batteries will all soon be dying is correct.

 

However, that is the problem with blind Internet diagnosis. Is it the sensor batteries? Is it the programming tool? Is it user error (sorry Vonore ?)? Is it a coincidental programming error/problem in the vehicle TPMS system itself, etc. etc...?

 

The most likely cause it "usually" the simplest and most obvious. The sensor batteries are dying one by one. But as you and others have stated, the only way to verify is to replace them all at once (now or when new tires are needed) or live with replacing them as they fail, one at a time.

 

Vonore, if you read this: How long do you think you have before needing new tires?

 

Good luck.

[md40022]

Totally fair. I guess the way I'm looking at it is this is a 2010 car. A previous posted mentioned 5-10 year life span on TPMS batteries. If we spend $15 on the tool from Amazon plus X amount of your own personal time (which is valuable) to troubleshoot...... I don't know. Seems like that right there covers the cost of just replacing the 4 sensors, which at the end of the day is probably a 98% chance of what's going to need to happen anyway.

 

I'm definitely following this thread to see how it plays out though.

[bbf2530]

4 minutes ago, md40022 said:

Totally fair. I guess the way I'm looking at it is this is a 2010 car. A previous posted mentioned 5-10 year life span on TPMS batteries. If we spend $15 on the tool from Amazon plus X amount of your own personal time (which is valuable) to troubleshoot...... I don't know. Seems like that right there covers the cost of just replacing the 4 sensors, which at the end of the day is probably a 98% chance of what's going to need to happen anyway.

 

I'm definitely following this thread to see how it plays out though.

 

Hi md. Yes, I agree. But it is the Internet and all we can do is guess and advise...lol! ?

 

Good luck. ?

[VonoreTn]

Thanks for the feedback.  And I am not sensitive, so I consider the possibility that I did something  wrong as information.  But I did do it 3 times, with the correct horn signature at each step, and it repeated exactly.   I have to add more information, going through my fairly good 11 years of records.  Purchase date of car August 2009.

 

Ok, I am 76 years old so you will have to forgive me for forgetting 2 TPMS events.  On 1/8/13, at 67070 miles I had the dealer replace one right rear tire, and they installel a new TPMS.  I was getting a tire light warning, with all tires up to pressure. The TPMS cost was $75 for diagnostic and labor, plus $83.73 for one TPMS repair kit.   I supplied the new tire from TireRack.  I guess I'm unique, I replace my tires as they wear out, one at a time. I have never gotten a bad Michelin tire from Tirerack. 

 

So then later, the next year, I got the tire light again.  This time I took it to Pauls Tires in Loudon, Tn, and he determined which tire it was and charged me $15 to install a new TPMS sensor I bought from rockauto.  I have lost my record of what I paid at rockauto that time.  

 

So I'm just going to buy 2 new TPMS sensors and have Paul install them on the right 2 wheels.  

 

[bbf2530]

55 minutes ago, VonoreTn said:

Thanks for the feedback.  And I am not sensitive, so I consider the possibility that I did something  wrong as information.  But I did do it 3 times, with the correct horn signature at each step, and it repeated exactly.   I have to add more information, going through my fairly good 11 years of records.  Purchase date of car August 2009.

 

Ok, I am 76 years old so you will have to forgive me for forgetting 2 TPMS events.  On 1/8/13, at 67070 miles I had the dealer replace one right rear tire, and they installel a new TPMS.  I was getting a tire light warning, with all tires up to pressure. The TPMS cost was $75 for diagnostic and labor, plus $83.73 for one TPMS repair kit.   I supplied the new tire from TireRack.  I guess I'm unique, I replace my tires as they wear out, one at a time. I have never gotten a bad Michelin tire from Tirerack. 

 

So then later, the next year, I got the tire light again.  This time I took it to Pauls Tires in Loudon, Tn, and he determined which tire it was and charged me $15 to install a new TPMS sensor I bought from rockauto.  I have lost my record of what I paid at rockauto that time.  

 

So I'm just going to buy 2 new TPMS sensors and have Paul install them on the right 2 wheels.  

 

 

Hi Vonore. Thanks for understanding that we are only trying to cover all the bases, even for those who come along and read this thread in the future.

 

Since you received confirmation beeps on both left side tires, I assumed you were programming the TPMS sensors correctly, and it was not "user error". ?

 

Hopefully installing two new TPMS sensors on the right side will fix the issue.

 

On a tire related note: I have been lucky in my life (knock on wood). With regular rotations, my tires have always been evenly worn and come up for replacement at the same time. Even been lucky with flat tires. The few I have ever had have been repairable, so no single new tires (knock on wood again). ?

 

Let us know how things work out with the new TPMS sensors. Good luck.

 

EDIT - Oh...and check around for pricing before using that first Dealer again. Unless they also found and repaired a fault in the TPMS system itself, those prices seem more than a bit high.

Edited March 10, 2021 by bbf2530

[md40022]

Vonroe, if I came off snarky with my posts from earlier today my apologies. It wasn't intended that way at all. I totally appreciate the fact that you are being as thorough about this as you are. More often than not, it's better to over evaluate something as opposed to under evaluating it.

 

I simply want you to be mindful of the amount of your own time you're investing in the issue, because everyone's time is valuable. And at the end of the day if playing the odds say that we have a 98% chance of this simply being a low battery or two, you might be putting in too much effort into the evaluation only to find that result. Keep everyone posted on how this plays out, definitely.  Like I mentioned in an earlier post, I have a 2010 myself and am dealing with the exact same issue. I'm taking the route of waiting for new tires to address it, but yes that dashboard light is annoying so I definitely appreciate you wanting to address it!!

[VonoreTn]

Ok guys, Amazon says these will fit my car. 315 hz, right? See picture below.  I think I will buy this set of 4, and one new tire. on the FFH I run my tires down to the wear indicator, and number 2 tire is there.  We have very little to no snow here in Tn.  The FFH is no longer our trip car.  I often go 2 months between fillups.  I have at least 5/32 of tread on the other 3.  Number 1 is almost  new. 

 

Side note, the FFH and my 2015 C-Max, both came with the exact same tires.  Michelin 225-50-17. I just put 4 new ones on the C-Max late last year....$840 at 71K miles.  On that car I have had the tires rotated by the dealer at oil changes.

 

The C-Max has had nothing go wrong with it, now at 86K miles.  If I drive 70 mph on the highway, I can get 40 mpg.  Similar to the FFH.  Significantly higher on rural trips, even with hills, mid 40's.   Too bad they quit making C-Max's and Fusion Hybrids.  I guess the Escape now has a hybrid again, and I assume it will get 40 mpg.  That might be my next car. 

 

[bbf2530]

Hi Vonore. Just a word of advice: With that large a difference in tread depth, you need to install the new tire and the best one of the other three tires on the rear of your Fusion.

 

Yes, that may seem counterintuitive on a FWD vehicle, but it has to do with not creating a dangerously over-steering vehicle (which is far more dangerous than an under-steering vehicle). Over-steer occurs when the front tires have more traction than the rear, the rear tires lose traction (usually in a turn) and the rear end of the car begins to come around on the driver, causing a spin.

 

In fact, it is possible that a tire shop may tell you you need to buy two tires, since the tread difference between that new tire and any of the old ones is quite large. Maybe...maybe not.

 

You can Google and verify this information from any expert tire source...i.e. any tire manufacturers website, The Tire Rack website, or any other expert tire source. Do not take the word of anonymous Internet sources (including me), or some blog written by Billy Bob Sixpack.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

[VonoreTn]

Good advice, I'll just do that.  

[VonoreTn]

The set of 4 TPMS's worked good, except when I had them installed at the dealership, one of them didn't work.  So I had to buy one at the dealership, but I still came out ahead versus 4 bought at the dealership. 

The mechanic at the dealership ended up using the $13 tester I bought shown way above, and preferred it to his Dealership tool.  We made a trade, free labor on the failed TPMS removal and reinstall if I let him keep the tester.  ?