I made the attempt only to find out I don’t really have the right equipment to knock it out. So I may use this opportunity to test a new mechanic. it’s my daily driver so I can’t afford to break it by “learning”.
Oh, BTW.. yes I had the shifter cable but that was on my fusion (like the mounts). This compressor was on my expedition. My A/C hasn’t worked forever. Every time I get money to get it replaced, something else comes up. I commute in New Orleans, so it gets pretty hot sometimes. Thankfully I park in a parking garage or else I’d melt down after a day in the sun.
Thanks for the response! Well to avoid paying for parts and labor, he said the parts is covered under a lifetime warranty, so I have to take it back there to get it fixed (I assume). I showed him the pics and he said it locked up and that’s what could cause that. But I do plan looking elsewhere for future work. I did think about the better business bureau too.
Maybe my engine mount task (other active thread) may be a good test for someone. I made the attempt only to find out I don’t really have the right equipment to knock it out and it’s my daily driver so I can’t afford to break it by “learning”.
Thanks again for your response!
First one I've seen cracked. The stress of the cable alone would not be enough to break that unless he had the weight of whole engine hanging by it. They have an overpressure relief so they shouldn't explode from the inside unless you somehow got a ton of water in the system and it froze (which is so rare, it would require some form of negligence or deliberate sabotage to occur). The other option is gross mechanic stress from being pounded on, pried on, or being wedged against something with a lot of force. You're the one that had the shifter cables damaged by the mechanic? Maybe your compressor is another victim of the botched transmission service, or maybe he's resorted to sabotage for more money. Either way I wouldn't go back to that idiot! It seems like you have a lot of issues, I would be talking to the BBB at this point.
In the last few months my electric vacuum pump has gotten noisy and/or is running more. There was a Ford TSB to replace a similar pump if it got noisy on eco-boost ( turbo charged ) F 150s. Turbo charged engines don't have enough manifold vacuum similar to diesels, hybrids and electrics for vacuum brake boost. There is no TSB on the Fusions yet but it's probably the same problem. Your pump may have failed and the system is running the ICE to produce vacuum. With the car parked and on and ICE not running, when you press the brake pedal, do you hear the pump running for about 7 seconds? It's located in front of the ICE about half way down the engine. It is very loud outside the car but if the AC is running you can't hear it inside. Ford lists the price at about $500 but aftermarket sellers are about $350 so see if you can get a trusted mechanic to get one of those if yours is bad. They only made 70,000 1st generation 2010-12 Ford, Lincoln and Mercury sedan hybrids unlike the millions of F 150's so the problem is probably just starting to appear in them.
First:this is on my 05 expedition, but I hope someone here can give some insight.
We had our A/C replaced almost a year and a half back and recently it’s been making funky noises when the clutch engaged. I finally got a chance to investigate today and I find the compressor housing is cracked. Is this “normal” possible quality failure? It appears the power cable or whatever in the pic is real tight across it and eventually broke the housing, but that’s a guess. Or is it another “quality” job from our mechanic?
The brake warning light is unpredictable when it comes on. Sometimes at start up and sometimes while just driving.. I did notice today that the car was running fine on EV but as soon as the brake warning light came on, the car went out of EV and stayed on ICE. I hadn't noticed it before but the car runs fine between EV and ICE until the brake warning light comes on. Two separate mechanics have said the analyzer indicates a vacuum leak. I had the vacuum hose replaced but stopped at having the vacuum pump replaced at an estimated cost of $900. The car runs fine even with the brake warning light on except for not having EV at low speeds. No problems with braking, on a ten mile trip on the freeway boing about 65mph I still get 37 mpg.
Hi jchisholm. Keeping in mind that others may take a different course of action, here is what I would recommend: Wait until an issue reoccurs, then take the car to the mechanic. It is unlikely the mechanic will be able to help much if everything is running right. Right now, your car shows no Check Engine Light, no stored codes etc. If it was humid, raining or you had not driven for a day or two, the sound you heard when you applied the brakes may have been surface rust on the rotors being ground off by the brake pads when you applied the brakes. Was it a slight rumbling or low pitched grinding sound? Did it only happen the first and maybe second time you applied the brakes? If yes, surface rust on the rotors was the likely culprit and quite normal.
Either way, taking it to the mechanic while it's running correctly may only cost you time and possibly money for nothing. Just my thoughts on the matter. Keep us updated and good luck.
I am going to have my Fusion brought in to a mechanic this coming Monday and have them check things out. I mentioned having the throttle body looked at or see if it needs to be replaced. Aside from the obvious acceleration problems and the car feeling stuck. What are some other symptoms of a bad throttle body? One thing to note is that the mileage is at 112,000 +. I'm not the most mechanically inclined person but I am learning more everyday. So thanks everyone for your patience.