Hey! Sorry if this isn't how it's done I just had a few questions. I recently purchased a used 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium w/ ecoboost, and it's my first push-to-start car...
Heres what happened:
I started the car (no issues), drove to work and parked. When I went to start the car to run an errand with my clients it wouldn't start. The head lights and taillights were on, but there was no interior lighting. I pressed the button a few times, and the interior lights kicked on. Pressed it twice more (without my foot on the brake) and the instruments lit up, and I got that "run power active" notice. I waited a few minutes and pressed the button a few more times (like 2 more) and nothing changed. I thought maybe it's the keyfob, so I put that in the dectector hole in the center consol, and tried again. No luck. I waited maybe 2 mins and pushed it twice more and all of a sudden it starts?It seemed like it took a little longer to crank over when it finally started, but this wasn't acting like a dead battery. During all my button pushing I did stand mostly out of the car to see if I could hear the click of the starter, same as you'd listen for in a standard twist to turn start. The starter was engaging, but it wasn't even attempting to crank over.
If this was a battery issue, why would the lights work? And why after a few buttton presses would the interior lights and instruments come alive?
Any my suggestions would be extremely welcome at this point.
I just installed a 2400 watt amp and a 1200 watt 6 channel amp in my 2011 fusion SE. I read somewhere that some of these newer ford cars have a (smart charging) where the car will sense load and demand more or less from the alternator depending on what it says it needs. And using aftermarket amps connected directly to the battery will adversely affect charging. How do I know if my car has this. I don't see any shunts or anything on my visible power wires to from battery/alternator. I'm worried if I turn my stereo up I might hurt something on this car. Thanks in advance on any input or help any of you throw my way.
Lolder is correct, I believe. My battery was installed new in the ‘15 FFH I bought in Dec. 2015. The original battery was heavily used in the showroom model that I bought and was DOA before I went out the door. It’s nice to know that you’ve gotten as much as you have from yours as I’ve been thinking tha I’d better be alert as I go through the 3rd year.
Have a new '17 and find the same thing happens when going up Hills or rapid acceleration. Thought maybe it was just part of a breaking process as I only have about 1400 miles on it. Last vehicle was 2011 Explorer which had similar concerns in addition to leaks.
I used my remote start to start my car this morning to warm it up. It ran through the full cycle of 10 or 15 minutes before it shut off. 30 minutes later, I got in the car to leave and I had no power whatsoever. I even had to use my key to unlock the door because the key fob wouldn't open the door.
I tried to start the car and the airbag light started flashing rapidly. I think it may have been the alarm going off because I used the key to enter but there wasn't enough power for the actual alarm to go off.
I ended getting a boost and the car started beautifully and ran without issue and no warning lights. I haven't needed a boost since then either.
I'm wondering if anyone can explain this or maybe they've had this happen with their cars.