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I was an early victim of fake hybrid battery death. After hours of research I stumbled upon an explanation and fix similar to what you've provided. So grateful that folks take the time to post info that literally saves others thousand$. The Ford service manager wasn't yet familiar with the problem. I shared the fix with him, but he wasn't authorized at that time to do it, so I did it myself and left him with a document he could share with customers willing to try it. I bet it was not shared.   FYI, I first reset it at 1 year, and then later changed it to 5 years just in case there might be some downside to tricking the system by so many years.   I've not done another battery reset since then, either, and I assume I won't have to. (16-yr old hybrid battery recently tested at 87%. Might be higher if I drove it more...only 53K.) I'm posting this because a few years ago I got a  notice from Ford that I should bring my car in for a couple of recommended/free fixes, one of which was a software update. Aha!, I thought, they've finally copped to the fake battery end of life. There was no description of what they were fixing, but, sure enough, no need to reset the battery since then.   Just putting it out there in case you and others might not have been notified of the update you're entitled to. Maybe you won't have to do a reset?   All would be well if there's a solution to my central display going black...the obvious fix (replacement) only worked for 2 weeks. That's the reason I joined the forum.  

It is now exactly  7 years since I've done the battery reset.    Still no issues. EV battery is still great, especially in this warmer weather Getting 45+ MPG easily still.   The car still runs incredibly well.   I guess I'm going to try and push this car to 20 years (owned it since May 2010).  By next year the battery glitch should start to appear later next year.  Which of course, will apply the battery reset.   Applied fluid film all over my underbody to hopefully slow down any more rusting.

Hi ohnooner. I have not previously heard of anyone replacing Fusion brake components with Escape components. Are you sure the "upgrade" was not the Edge/Edge ST  brake components?   Concerning tie rods, the steering rack etc... You have no worries, you will be fine. The steering rack did not need to be changed.    Keep us updated and good luck. 

I recently put new 02 sensors in my 2006 fusion se v6 and now I get a slow response odb reading with my check engine light coming on it says slow response from bank 2 sensor 1. What would be causing this please help

I bought a 2011 ford fusion sport FWD from a private seller about a year ago. It has 109k miles now and I was changing the brakes and rotors all the way around. I bought a Detroit axle brake kit that came with everything I needed. I went to change the front brakes first and I noticed that the brake pads were completely different from what bought. I thought I got sent the wrong pads at first but come to find out that the kit I ordered was correct but rather the person who owned the car previously to the owner I bought it from, changed/ upgraded the brake system to the 2010 ford escape brakes on the front but kept the factory fusion rear brakes, which makes sense because of how front heavy the car is.    I ordered the front brakes for the escape and and rear for fusion which isn’t the problem, am I going to have any issues with changing the inner and outer tie rods because of this or are those parts not related? I just thought that they might have to change the rack and pinion to use those brakes, but maybe I don’t know what I am talking about. Help?  

I'd be grateful for some help with a tricky issue. The obvious fix isn't holding.   Ford dealer recently replaced central info display (clock, media, climate, and compass stuck on N for over a year). Button functionality was consistently fine, but the display was solid black. Started as an intermittent problem, then constant. They checked connectors to the unit, and the fuse was good. So we elected to replace the unit. Before taking to dealer, we had tried soft and hard resets, checked relevant #14 fuse, disconnected battery.   The new OEM part (program included) worked fine for <2 wks. Car sat for 2 days, then unit 100% black on next startup and hasn't come back on.   What other factors can there be?  What powers the display? Is there a separate power supply? Could there be interruption to signal or power?   Are there other relevant connectors, such as the ones under the cupholders?  I ask because the ambient light connector is one of a few located there, and the ambient light recently came on after not working for years. Now I'm wondering if there are other loose connectors (such as compass) that run to the central console. Fuse diagram shows ambient light and compass sharing a fuse.   I'm hoping to have a little education under my belt before I engage with the service manager again. This stuff isn't in his wheelhouse.    Thank you!  FYI, new 12v battery installed a few weeks prior to unit replacement. Hybrid battery tested at 87%. I never activated SYNC but replaced that fuse, too. 53K, original owner.

There is no cooling fan on the Fusion, it draws air from inside the cabin unlike Toyota. Instead of taking the fan apart use electrical contact cleaner on the blades to clean them up.  

Fluid is standard Mercon LV, it will be red when first put in and turn black after about 8k. The dye is intended only as a factory leak trace so fluid is judged by smell and particulates. The fluid also acts as the "coolant" for the stator and stator bearings so I'd say do a drain and fix at ~50k and a full exchange at 100k Personally I would only use Motorcraft or a Mercon LV licensed brand (Castrol has a TransMax version) and avoid the ones that say "compatible" like Valvoline.

Powertrain warranty on the Hybrid is different since the CVT is a Hybrid specific component. It should have factory 8/100k

Disregard the pic in my previous post and OEM number. I went to the mechanic today and he took out the part, I didn't even think any part of it was intact but it was split in 2 pieces (I have the bolts). This is the correct part I need, and again I can't find it anywhere, not in stock or discontinued, and every aftermarket part # shows the wrong part.  Would it be fine if I find a place that can TIG weld it on both sides?