WKelley

I would call Ford customer service and start there. You could also try a different dealership as well. You are no required to use Ford for maintenance services and such an obvious typo should be just that, obvious. Your dealer doesn't want to help you, but I guarantee there will be a dealer that will.

Be ready for increased insurance premiums.

IF it were a Canadian car it should have KM/H on top and it would have DRL's.

In my mind you have to be extremely brave to trust RockAuto for internal engine parts. I also can't see a scenario where I would try to change valve guides/seals without pulling the head and sending it to the machine shop. Without proper tooling putting in valve guides is sketchy.

It would help if you posted the recall number, they are usually 5 digits with the middle being a letter.

Car is rated for a 15 second quarter mile time, anything pre-1972 with 327CI or higher will easily drop a 14 second and anything with a big block (muscle car wise) will drop 13 second quarter mile times on street tires and 87 octane gas. The 2.0 Ecoboost is rated for 237hp on high test, that's not shabby for an econobox like the Fusion, but that is not much. It will certainly pound my N/A 2.5L into the ground, but there are a massive wealth of cars that can easily take it.

Look for any holes between the rear O2 and the catalytic converter. If the exhaust is not perforated, you need someone to properly diagnose it, codes do not tell you what parts need replacing, they tell you where to look.

Most important thing is all 4 the same size.

No dealer will give a courtesy car unless you bought it from them new and it is in for warranty work. I dropped my car off for 2 recalls and they had it for 5 days, although 2 of those days were the weekend. I am the 3rd owner and both recalls were performed free on my 2010. They cannot legally charge for recall work.

Ford Fusion TT 2.7 rear diff fluid change - Bing video MAKE SURE YOU OPEN THE FILL PLUG FIRST. If you can't get the fill plug off then you can't refill it. Sounds like there is a special fluid with LSD additive, but I am not positive there. If you already hear noises it may be too late.

If you ask me the hardest part is the programming to make it work. I have severe doubts the dealer would do this as the car did not come with them and they usually only program things that are VIN locked.

You could have major suspension issues, I would take it to an alignment shop, they will give you the bad news in person.

More likely the rubber flex hose that connects to the caliper, also you can unbolt the caliper and see if the slides are frozen. Usually a sporadic problem points toward the hose.

Set your parking brake and put it in reverse with the engine off.

If you can get your hands on some wiring diagrams, I'd be checking the wiring coming out of the ECM that controls the alternator. It is possible for the alternator driver in the ECM is bad yet there are no other problems. If you have access to a really good scan tool look to see if you can find any realtime data showing the ECM commanding the alternator.

The ECM does control the power output of the alternator. What is the voltage when the light comes on?

Won't work, wiring/pcm will be different amongst other things. I don't think I would repair a car with that engine, they are terrible and unreliable for sure.

They will want to do an oil consumption study on the car, documentation will be critical to get any warranty.

Was it a new engine? What warranty did it come with? A new engine could maybe use a bit of oil, but it really shouldn't. If you are going to try and warranty the engine then you should start documenting everything and start checking the oil level at least weekly if not daily. You will need to have all your facts straight before you begin the warranty process if it has one.

What have you done to troubleshoot the code?

They are very expensive, RockAuto has it listed for $675 + $450 core charge. That's the cheapest price I could find. The car will require programming by a dealer or possibly someone with a dealer level scan tool. It should only take a couple hours to install, that cost is determined by the shop installing it and their hourly rate. In fact, it would be wise to consult the shop first as my guess on time may not be right. There is no such thing as replacing the electric rack cheaply. There is no way to swap in a cheaper rack and it is the biggest fear most of us Fusion owners have is when this breaks.

I would not be sealing gaps. That is a guaranteed way to trap water. It's a bad design for sure, my car looks great until you look at the bottoms of the rocker panels. I'm hoping to have my rockers done this summer because they are pretty much at the point of no return. They use so much salt here in Ontario, it should be a crime.

I would not be surprised if the car had a failed water pump that dumped coolant into the crankcase as well. The 3.5 was a problem child, be prepared to a full replacement. Make certain it gets a new water pump no matter which way to go.

I have 16" rims/winter tires on my 2010 SE and my summers are the 17". Even the AWD cars use the same front suspension and a couple minor differences in the rear. You should have no issue, just make certain to have all 4 the same size and as close to the same circumference as the 18". Might be different part numbers as some are made with different offsets to fix alignment issues.

I can attest that the 6spd manual cars do have some manual specific parts, but that RockAuto listing is confusing. I saw 3 different specs for aftermarket yet only one listing for the Motorcraft. I personally have been avoiding cheap aftermarket parts as they just don't last. I might not go straight to the dealer, but my mechanic uses factory parts whenever possible. Either way the RockAuto listing is a mess.