WKelley

I would expect a Ford dealership would only be interested in using a new battery unless they specifically state reconditioned. I would definitely ask and if they say new get it in writing. A new battery pack, while expensive, will have the longest warranty.

Manufacturers don't want us poking around inside the batteries, there won't be anything official you could find to help. Reconditioned = used. They just replace the bad cells and you get a new/used battery pack.

How have you done your voltage tests? Fords can take a long time to fully go to sleep, up to 45 minutes or more. You will likely have a bad/failing module, but it won't be easy to figure out which one. You need wiring diagrams (I can't help there) so you can try to isolate all the modules involved.

I find it hard to believe that a 2016 engine would be compatible with a 2005. Make certain they have the same sensors, especially the crank/cam sensors. You need to figure out if they interchange.

Cycling is almost always a low pressure issue. Diagnosing A/C isn't easy, check connections to the pressure switches and such. I would also be mindful not to mix refrigerants, that can cause problems as well.

Aftermarket parts quality has become terrible. Everything is made in China and it's like they were told to make them poorly. I would personally use OEM parts. I just paid big money for a sensor straight from Ford becuase the mechanic and I agreed that the aftermaket, which was only about 20% cheaper, was not trustworthy. It's a hard choice as the parts will be more money from Ford, but to me it is peace of mind.

You cannot simply replace a BCM, they have to be flashed to work. You need to figure out the over voltage issue first as well or you won't fix anything. You should find someone that specializes in electrical repairs if possible.

Losing brake fluid is never good and needs to be addressed ASAP.

U codes are communication codes, they may need advanced scan tool work. Write those codes down and remove the negative battery cable for 30 seconds or so and see if that turns the wrench off. Otherwise you will have to get those communications codes troubleshooted. It will take a good scan tool to do that, those bluetooth phone app scan devices are not gonna cut it.

Check powers and grounds and check effected bulbs to see if they are blown.

Sometimes you gotta bite the bullet and bring it to a shop. I'm a retired mechanic and I had to send mine in for a hefty repair because it was impossible for me to fix it at home. Big oil leaks tend to be big bills, good chance that engine needs a full reseal which would be pricey and might even require the engine out. In today's ridiculous used car market it is worthy to keep what you got running because anything to replace it will cost more than the repairs to what you have (and know).

Actual final tally on my car: $960CAD for the speedo sensor and new fuel pump driver module labor included. They had to go to Ford for the speedo sensor, my guess is that the manual transmission Fusion was not a popular model sold, that sensor alone was $425.

Popping a 30A fuse is a big deal (as you already knew). Some of these cars have "one touch starting" which means you flip the key once to start and after you let go it will spin the starter until the engine starts or about 10 seconds if it does not start. Unless there is a physical problem with the starter, you're looking at wiring and possible PCM issues. About the only helpful thing I can think to add is check all connections as well as underhood grounds. Otherwise it will need to be scanned by someone with a pro level scan tool. I learned the hard way that those bluetooth phone app scan devices are crap and hardly helpful. I know it's not cheap, but bringing it to a pro will save you money in the end, I wasted $350 on a fuel pump I did not need that did not fix my problem.

Shop called, they were able to pull codes that my bluetooth/phone setup could not. My car is getting a new fuel pump driver module and a speedometer sensor. Coming in around $1200 parts/labor. Speedo sensor is STUPIDLY expensive and hard to find, but I'm not driving around without it. THey have guaranteed my problems are fixed, let's hope it holds together with no repairs for a while now. Just to add, these prices are in Canadian dollars and part are more expensive in Canada than the US by a fair bit.

I can add this: Check plug gaps. I bought pre-gapped plugs and they were wrong and it caused me to have strange misfire issues. Second, unless you are using a professional scan tool, you're not gonna get all the codes that are stored. I just had to send my car to the shop and they were able to pull codes that I could not and what was wrong with my car was not what I thought. A regular OBD bluetooth/phone setup will not get you all the codes that could be stored.

Ok, car is now close to undriveable, I put it in the shop, will post back. I'm expecting a 4 figure bill after this is all said and done....

Now I have an occasional stalling issue when the speedo is not working. Seems like my problem is getting progressive and pointing towards engine computer.

99.999% chance this is an internal transmission problem. Slipping/shuddering are almost always internal transmission issues. Torque converters almost always fail loudly with a whining noise for a bit before they do fail. Losing gears is another sign that the transmission itself is to blame. As for driveway replacement, the 4cyl versions do have a lot more room/space to pull the transmission but it likely needs to come out the bottom so expect to remove the subframe first. It's not a small job in any way.

OK, this is happening very frequently now. I set up an experiment: I have the Torque app showing GPS speed and OBD reported speed. About a 4KM/h differnece between those 2. Here's the real twist, the speedometer is reading 4-5KM/h slower than the OBD reported value. So to make this clear, the GPS speed is 4KM/h higher than the OBD reported speed. The speedometer is 4-5KM/h lower than the reported OBD speed. I ran this experiment on flat level ground with cruise control holding it at a steady speed. I varied the cruise between 80KM/h to 100KM/h and the differences in the reported 3 values were consistently the same spread of values. Why would the speedometer read lower than the OBD value?

My .02$ : check the gaps on new plugs. I chased a bogus misfire that was due to wrongly gapped new plugs.

NEW issue tacking on: car has stalled twice on me while moving when I had the clutch in. One time I was turning and it cut out the electric power steering, that was a pucker factor 10. How in the world can I get a bad computer diagnosed when it works mostly correctly and throws no codes.......

As a 30yr mechanic this is a problem across all manufacturers and has been a problem for decades. The worst issue I have ever seen with wheels/lugs are 90's Chrysler/Dodge chrome alloy rims where the chrome separates in sheets making them more deadly than razor blades. I came close more than a few times of chopping my fingers off with that fun. Two piece lugnuts have been around for decades and have always been a problem, especially in the rust belts.

Swap 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 and see if the misfire follows. I don't have the spec your looking for though.

Never a good idea to tap into wiring, the computers can be quite sensitive to even the slightest voltage drop and cause unforeseen problems. It is best to wire straight to the fuse panel even though that is a giant PITA.

Likely a 1-3mph difference, won't mess with the engine computer. The most important thing is that they are all the same size tire.