tbh the steering racks in these cars are shit!

ive read many posts about the rack failing after things like wheel alignments, work like you have done or other work, the list seems to be endless and figuring why it happened is a stab in the dark.

I replaced the lower control arms on my 2014 and all was fine but i have also had a failed steering rack too (unrelated I believe)

My suggestion would be to get forscan connected and try a PSCM reset and/or self test. Maybe the issue will resolve???

Failing that and any other tests you could try I bought a used rack on ebay from a car that had only rear damage. You can dummy connect that rack under your car and test to see 1. if it works 2. that the codes rectify.

Although a mate that had a lift i could use didnt charge me I fixed mine for $160

Goodluck

considering you have been dealing with the passenger side with the symptoms being exaggerated when turning to the right I would actually look at drivers side rear instead.

see when the car is turning to the right all the weight transfers to the left side of the vehicle causing, say, more load on the bearing. Straight moderate and turning left the weight load is less.

If the sound is drowning out the faster you go, is most probably because the frequency of the "knocks" are higher among other sounds being added to combine in it becoming less noticeable.

In my experience sounds from failed bearings travel far and wide through components and framework.

I would be looking to the other side.

Fearing backlash from people that think different I will post this anyway. It may temporarily fix your issue until the part arrives then you can remove it to have the dealer replace the warrantied part.

P0420 can be rectified by placing a spacer known as a fouler in between the sensor and where it mounts.

See: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO91FY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The sensor relays a signal to the computer, if it above or below threshold it triggers the code. This is based on the reading it gets before and after the CC.

It pulls the sensor away from the "issue" giving a normal reading again.

Of course you would need to get one that is the right thread type for your vehicle.

Again, this should only be temporary and my apologies to any that deem this to be an irreprehensible offense.

ok

suppose if it was me, id check the power supply to the motor via the plug and check the motor resistance vs the others motors with a DMM.

Other than that its most probably more effective to go to some local wreckers and try and find a seat with the same trim and switch it out completely.

45 minutes ago, rosered95 said:

FXT I'll have to look into forscan. I have seen it mentioned before but was unsure of it. Someone also said that even if I download it I still have to take it somewhere to get the program uploaded into my car.

they informed you incorrectly. You can do the alteration in the comfort of your own driveway/garage.

whether this is the correct fix or not I cant say but other than the expense of the adapter and most people have a pc/laptop, its free (unless you have used the free trial full version of forscan already)

i dont know if this is correct or not but this workshop manual says its for fusion and fiesta.

Anyhow have a look and see if it looks the same and makes sense: https://cardiagn.com/2005-08-ford-fiesta-st-body-system/

See page 501-14-24

You dont specify your Region but if youre in the US, buy a drivers side seat from Australia?

I see it as an option in the ForScan spread sheet:

IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) looks like has a programmable module where the large X at position 4 needs to be changed to a 1.

You said passenger side so i doubt the panel was replaced. Maybe they did some sort of reset or having the battery disconnected reset the module to default?

Why you had it before could only be a mystery but if you have an HS/MS-CAN OBD2 adapter and pc, forscan trial is free and you could change the as-built data for that module to display it again.

i got mine from here if it helps https://cardiagn.com/ford/ford-fusion/

it is either the type of mp3 format or could be something with the ID3 tags that the vehicle software is rejecting.

ID3 is the metadata that the file includes that gives a device the information such as Artist, Track, Title etc

I would suggest looking at a file on your pc that shows up in the list and works in your car and look at the file type specifics or the metadata.

If you dont have much knowledge take a file convert it and try it on your USB. Try different things until you get one to show then duplicate that with all the other songs.

A good freeware ID3 program is https://www.mp3tag.de/en/

i would invest in an OBD plug https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S7W14X9/

get a laptop and Forscan to pull the codes that in the computer

then you can go from there researching the issue

13 hours ago, MTLEADER said:

I think I left something loose on my back passenger side, I did both sides and went to go for a drive and there was a clunking sound coming from the trunk area on the passenger side. I will be pulling that side off again to see what I did wrong.  

Make sure the shocks top nut is tight! The clunking sound is common and tightening that nut generally rectifies the issue. Test to see if its even the slightest bit loose while the car is on the ground (Jacking it up transfers the weight and the issue goes away) It can be done in the car if you have one of the sockets that allows passthrough in the center and if you replaced with aftermarket shocks the nut is sometimes not as wide as the OEM so it can be shimmed with a couple washers so it protrudes more for better access.

i dont modify my cars anymore, not worth it so cant help you there

There is no upper control arm. You remove the lower 2 bolts and remove the upper bush to remove the shock. Then you can remove the shock nut from the bush.

Because you are not replacing any of the suspension assembly it shouldn't require an alignment but check your tires for unusual wear over the next few drives.

Dont know if there is anything you would need to do to enable a "dolly towing mode" but i assume the system has been tripped with maybe a difference of something like wheel speed sensing from the motion of rear wheels to non-motion of front wheels.

Personally I would hook up ForScan and see what the DTC codes are. you can more than likely just clear them and be on your way.

7 hours ago, murphy1600 said:

 

How do I get the gas motor to run

Press the accelerator pedal while the car is on

Breeze over my thread about replacing mine here:

Yours doesn't look too much different from mine although the previous generation.

Without putting the car up on a lift would be a nightmare, especially with the age of your vehicle.

One thing I would suggest to try and avoid a wheel alignment is rather than remove the tie rod ends, pull back the flexi boot from the larger side and remove the arm from the knuckle then the alignment will be the same (or within a small, small tolerance)

Good luck!

the 2011 generation models have a dual ball joint setup

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/suspension/chassis-parts/arm-assy-front-suspension-7835149-1

3078A & 3078B in the exploded view

Price wouldnt vary much if you are having someone else do the work unless they use aftermarket parts.

A proficient mechanic should charge about 1.5 hours per side

Not to lead anyone in the wrong direction but on two of my Subarus half of the heater core gets blocked. I assume even the hybrids still have heater cores but it may be worth a look.

If you can find the direction of flow, disconnect the entry and return hoses from the core and run water in the reverse flow direction from even just a regular garden hose it may dislodge what could be restricting the flow.

Its generally at the opposite end on the core from where the tubes enter, which in my cases was the passenger side of vehicle.

Maybe???

if you're changing the oil filter why wouldn't you also dump the oil from the plug? It doesn't make sense.

Specifications are in the manual and if you're not too sure, slightly under-fill it and check back after a drive.

Car needs to be on a flat surface and let sit for a while for the oil to settle to get an accurate reading.

I seems you have had a persistent problem based on previous posts.

You should be pulling codes every chance you get to compare and see if it is indeed the same issue or something different which is ultimately relative to the steering rack being shut down.

Without those (even if the same) anyone would just be taking guess in the dark.

But....if the issue does lay with something other than the rack you just need to find out what the chained link is and work backwards from there.

On 2/3/2020 at 1:56 PM, CDEHN said:

My car had this same thing.  Took it to shop this am. 

The Advance Trac warning light came on, along with a message to "Service Advancetrac." as well as ABS, traction control, hill start assist, airbag issue, rear camera works but no warnings.  Steering is extremely stiff.    I took it to shop Friday and they attempted to reset codes.  It didn't work.  I drove to store came out and all lights were gone and car was working fine.  This morning i go to leave and they are all back on. 

 

Glad you got the issue fixed @ark898023!

I think the quoted text is an unrelated issue.

The advancetrac warning that displays seems to me to be related to many issues where the system shuts down multiple systems based on the origination of the problem.

I couldn't stress how important it is that people add the DTC codes pulled because they are what help to pinpoint the problem and provide much more reference than the user displayed warnings.

17 hours ago, ErnieB said:

Alright thanks, I have a replacement gear ordered but it'll probably be at least a week until I get it installed. I'll try just doing a swap and let y'all know what happens.

This was the video that I found easiest and most helpful, Goodluck!

Just for reference sake:

Ford sell the replacement rack for $1500 and about $500-$1000 in labor to install

CARiD have remanufactured racks for about $500

and as mentioned above, I bought mine in eBay from a vehicle that only showed rear damage for $120

6 hours ago, Jim McConnell said:

The dealer said they needed to have the light on to know what the code was.

While im unsure if the factory codes are stored, standard OBD2 codes are stored in the memory even if the light goes out.

If you dont have a personal adapter, somewhere like Autozone can pull them for free and usually give a printout for refernce.

Worth a try if your dealer is screwing you around