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They tend to leak coolant into the combustion chambers more than into the crankcase, that's why you can smell it. It doesn't take expensive testing to rule out a possible headgasket leak. No other fluid smells sweet when burnt, that's why I think you need to focus there.

Very few people work on A/C because of the complexity and the fact that it is not considered a do-it-yourself job in any way. You're supposed to be licensed to even handle this work. That being said, I'm not waving my finger at you. If you have the understanding and can get it working then you're further ahead than most. Most mechanics here (Lindsay, Ontario) will not touch A/C work unless you do it 100% by the book. TL/DR: People almost never fix their own A/c.

Not much help, but I would try popping the end out of the transmission and get it all on a bench to see if you can fit it together. Aftermarket axle might be in order too.

So you're getting pissed off at the Hybrid function, not working correctly anymore as it once used to, or very rare instances of it working, but not the way you've been used to anymore. It basically makes hypermiling near impossible. That is because Ford has programmed into the car's hybrid system, a high voltage battery age date which makes you believe you have to service or change out the HVB battery pack. This is most likely a precaution from the company itself to limit the batteries usefulness at it approaches the end of its life as the battery capacity has dropped from the years gone by. I believe this is to relieve stress from the ageing HVB which in turn will use your Internal Combustion Engine a lot more often, which defeats the purpose of word Hybrid. From what I have seen in the Forscan program, it looks like the 15-years is the max date and the end mark for the battery in the hybrid system. Reaching this point is anyone's guess. It could have a message popping up on the dash saying something like "replace HVB battery now" or the HVB system ceases to function, and you just have a regular gasoline car. So here is what I did to fix (or temporarily for now?) to restore the Hybrid EV function as you once remembered it. (This method should work from 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid and should work on most likely 2010-2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid, & 2010-2012 Mercury Milan Hyrbid as well (According to the Ford OASIS from Oct 3, 2019 these are the years affected). I highly doubt this fix will work on the 2013+ because the chassis has gone through a major change, the computing system of the vehicle is not the same and may behave differently with the vehicle and other additional features are added to it not found in 2012 and below. They may not even exhibit the problem (Unless Ford really did screw everyone over by limiting the HVB's on all their hybrids ever produced. Who knows? I guess time will tell. You will find out around in 8 or 9 years I guess) You will need a few things to get started (or what I have used): Step 1 - Gather the tools for the job - A Windows laptop - ODB II (ELM327 HS-CAN / MS-CAN) device. -ForScan software The ODB II device I had on hand, which is a few years old, but it worked for me, is the brand/model BBFLY BF32302, you can buy this on Amazon for around $23 range (I'm sure you can use any other brand you choose and possibly cheaper, they have Bluetooth & wifi models. Or you might already have an ODB II device) https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BF32302-modified-Windows-ELMconfig-Forscan/dp/B01N9R9QS2 USB model (I used) If the other link sells out, this is also another good one https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Programming/dp/B07S7W14X9?ref_=ast_sto_dp Wifi model $29 https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BB77105-ELM327-Modified-FORScan-Windows/dp/B076VPXPK5 ***NOTE*** These are not affiliate links. I get nothing from it when the product is bought. These are just merely the products that I know I have no issues with it when using it. Step 2 - Drivers & Software Once you have your OBD II device, you will need to install drivers with the device to the laptop for it to work (instructions should be included inside the box on how to do it from the manufacturer of the device), it might be plug and play and the drivers might install on its own. Next, you need the FORScan software: https://forscan.org/download.html I downloaded/used the FORScan version 2.3.22 beta for Windows. Next, you need to activate the software with an "extended" license as it comes in "standard" license by default. Why do you need to activate the software to "extended" you ask?: What is Extended License, why and when do I need it? Extended License provides access to Configuration and Programming functions of FORScan, and also few Service functions (such as PATS programming). Base (Standard) FORScan functionality such as (connection, retrieving vehicle information, reading parameters, read and reset diagnostic trouble codes, run tests and service functions etc) does NOT require an Extended License. There is a free 2 month Extended License that can be issued for anyone who has an account on our FORScan forum. Also, there are paid long-term and lifelong licenses. the "Configuration and Programming" functions are making changes and edits to the car's computer data. Which includes programming keys, etc., or in this case you want to change the battery age. It falls within this category, which the Extended license is required. Create a free member account on their forum to get the activation file key. there is a 2 free month trial. (even if it expires, you can just make another again to re-activate) Here is a 1-minute youtube video of how to activate the software with ease: STEP 3 - Programming in your vehicle. Under your steering wheel, is a small square cover. Open the cover. It will reveal the port for the ODB. Plug in the ODB II device into it. Next, insert your car keys, turn the key to the "ON" position (Don't start). (Sample picture of key positions) Open the FORScan program. Connect the device, a button below (two plugs joining icon). Once you connect, you will be instructed to create a profile, just follow the onscreen steps. If you get a message about the MS-CAN setting on the ODB II device, it is the toggle switch on my ODB device, I had it switched toggled towards the wire of the ODB II device. Next, on the left-hand side of the program with the icons, go to the one with the CPU processor looking icon (5th one down), click on it, and you will be brought to this screen. on the Configuration and Programming tab, highlight the "BECM Module Configuration" and go hover your mouse pointer over to the "blue play button" icon below and press it. Next is this section you will see. Highlight the "Config battery age" (double click on it, can't remember this is just from my memory) and press the play button icon again, (the screen is cut off on the right side of the picture, but for me, it said (The values might differ for some people or may say the same for you, but I'm guessing this is the info it shows after 9+ years): Name Value Config battery age error Config battery end life counter Module configuration Config charge since rebalance error config hybrid battery state of charge error config hybrid battery state of charge 2 error Just choose the "config battery age" (I didn't change the other settings on that list, as I don't know what to do that might screw it up, so I didn't play around with it. You can go into it and see it, but I didn't save any of those changes. I guess in time I will find out more info or learn when I have time to tinker some more. I would love to get rid of all the error values) Next, you will see this screen, it looks like I was about to hit the 10-year mark (yours might be lower or higher than this number, this is just a running counter in their system to keep track of the approaching total of years for the HVB. Select the "2400 - 1" and hit the "blue checkmark box" (although technically the 0 - 0 year would work, but the auto techs at the dealers that have been fixing it, have been choosing year 1. So I will just choose that) Next, it will take you back to the list of 5 config battery options, hit the "write" button below, and then this window will come up. hit the blue checkmark button to confirm Done! here is the last window popup you will see confirming the change. Click on the top icon on the left-hand side (car with the letter i in a bubble icon), Then press on the un-connect icon below (circled in red), to un-connect the vehicle from the program Close the program, and then unplug the ODBII device. Cycle the ignition OFF and then back on as per the programming message you've just seen. The results of the EV activating will be immediately noticed when you start to drive your car (within a minute or so. It may take a few minutes if it's too cold). I hope this will help your problem fix your issue as it did for me, This forum post was done from my memory, as I didn't really take any notes down, so I hope what I've posted is pretty accurate. Please don't screw around with other settings. if you want to change other settings for the vehicle, I suggest you search or ask questions on the Forscan forums. there are guides on how to use the program to its full potential. There is a ton of info on there to do custom stuff (lights, upgrade sync, key programming if you lost original fob, etc), but that will be for another time for me. If you are happy and this solved your issue, and you happen to feel generous want to donate $ to me, I will happily accept lol (have PayPal). But it's your choice, not forcing anyone to give anything to me. I just want to spread the knowledge and help others out having this problem develop late in the car's ownership. (I'm sure as time goes by, some dealers that do not know of this fix, will catch wind of this thread and offer this solution to their customers and make money for the dealer, hahaha. If anyone that owns this 2010, 2011, 2012? Ford Fusion Hybrid and lives in the Greater Toronto Area, and cannot find a dealer to do this, I can probably perform this for you if you'd like.

I had this problem with my 2017 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium which I bought new. I also bought an extended warranty. I asked Ford to fix it but Ford declined a the grounds that it was a defect in the “ dash pad” which was not covered. I took Ford to arbitration and the arbitrator ruled in my favor. I argued it was a safety matter because the defroster was not working properly and I was concerned that the air bag would not deploy properly. During testimony the Ford engineer admitted that the air bag might not deploy properly and that the defroster would not work properly.

Just for future reference for other who might experience a similar issue, I may have found the solution I wanted to post on the forum. Last week I had two more instances of issues. First, where I forget to disable the start/stop function with the button, and it stalled at a stoplight while heading to work. The car refused to start and I was stuck at the light for about 2 hours waiting for a tow. The dash screens would light up but none of my outside lights worked. For the heck of it, before the tow arrived, I disconnected and reconnected the terminals and, low and behold, the car was working fine again. The second instance happened when I parked my car and later it simply wouldn't start (appeared unrelated to stop/start). Once again, I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it was starting fine. Strange as it sounds, my Cobra radar detector has a battery check function whenever the car is started and it told me last week the battery was bad. Exploring this potential cause, I discovered that the prior owner installed a standard, non-AGM battery in the car. According the owner's manual, stop/start cars specify a AGM-type battery. I installed an AGM replacement and haven't had any problems (at least so far). Admittedly, I'm a bit nervous about keeping the stop/start function on so I've been trying to remember to keep it off but check it's functionality every time I drive the car when parking the car to see if works. So far, about 20-30 tests without issue. Just to try to increase my confidence in the fix, when I took the old battery to the auto parts store to recycle it, I asked them to use their battery check equipment to verify the battery was bad. When they checked it, it showed as 'passing'. This didn't help me feel better but, like I stated, the car appears to be running fine now that an AGM-type battery is installed. Maybe the old battery was just starting to fail (?). I hope this information helps someone else out in the future.