inFuzed11

I'm guessing the Hybrid has a different engine than the non-hybrid V6 or I4... or a different throttle body at least. If so, probably not covered the same way.

It can't hurt going in to find out, but it would not surprise me if they said you are not covered until your vehicle (build lot) was identified to need this program. It is possible you just had bad luck but your batch vehicles did not have enough failures for them to cause the warranty.

Contacting Ford to find out would be your best bet. They'll need to know who you are, your VIN, etc to verify ownership and see if your vehicle applies. It is possible that your Fusion has the same symptoms but is not covered by this notice. Anyone here would be guessing.

This notice doesn't say that they will replace the part if it hasn't failed and they can't pick up signals when in for the flash that it will fail. This is probably just, as you said, to make it a less dramatic loss in driveability when the issue does occur. At that point, you would get the new revision part.

I just got a customer satisfaction form for the throttle body which I already had replaced (covered 100% under one of the warranties). It does not appear to be a recall but rather that if the car has a problem, it is covered for up to 10 years and 150k miles. If the vehicle has exceeded that already, the coverage will last through January 31, 2015. This is listed as Customer Satisfaction Program 13N03. The notice also claims that, later this spring, I will receive a communication about an updated powertrain calibration being available which will "improve vehicle performance in the event that contamination of the Throttle Body occurs. The recalibration will also be available to you at no charge." ^ I'm guessing this is because the car is pretty dangerous to be in when it stops responding to throttle. They probably are going to make it act a little better so you can get out of your own way.

Read the thread. I don't think any individual dealer knows if Ford Corporate cares one way or the other. If they claim to, it's probably just so if you are paying out of pocket, you think you might get reimbursed should they issue a recall.

When I experienced it and pulled over and stopped. The engine was shaking a bit while the wrench light was on. I shut it down and restarted it to drive home.

So my wife brought the Fusion in to the dealer today. Had no issues on the ~13 mile drive, no light on the way. Don't know about pending codes as I have not shown her how to check them. She explained the situation to the dealer, they said they'd have to duplicate the code before giving a rental and to give them a couple hours, so she came prepared with lunch and waited. They could not duplicate the issue and told her to go home. I said to go to whoever it is telling her this and say "so you are saying I should take this unsafe vehicle which I have already had somewhere pull the code (said it was AutoZone instead of us having our own reader) home. I need your business card in case of accident." They tried harder, got the code and replaced "the part." I don't know what part yet, we expect the throttle body like others here. They had it in stock, which I guess suggests this is not the first they have seen. Best yet, expecting to pay the deductible, they covered it under the powertrain so we had no deductible. In that respect, glad we didn't force their hand to give us a rental because then we'd have had to pay for it, or the deductible. At just 41k miles, I'm really hoping this is a redesigned throttle body as I will be upset if I have to replace it again in another 41k miles. I'll look at the paperwork when I get home to tell you guys how they coded it if it looks like something you can use to get it overed by the Powertrain Warranty.

Sounds like my situation. 2011 3.0L Fusion with a bit over 41k miles. The wife was driving it yesterday and told me what happened. She had 48 miles to empty so I told her to restart it and get gas. All was fine after. This morning, I drove it and about a mile from my house, wrench light and loss of power. Pulled over immediately, shut it down and restarted. Seemed to take a bit extra time to start than it should, though I'll admit I don't drive it regularly. Drove it right home. I've got the ESP with $100 deductible and am annoyed this isn't covered by the PT Warranty. If they won't fix it without charging my deductible (somehow), at least I'll get them for the first day rental since I paid extra on the ESP for that.

Installed the 1-way kit on my '11 Fusion two winters ago, was great. Installed the 2-way kit on my mother's '11 Milan Premier a couple months ago, was just as easy. I wish I got the 2-way kit now myself as I like it tells you it started. Mine is never not started but it's just nice to know.

This is incorrect. The one-way and two-way remote start setups both shut down when either you open the door or put the key in (if not already shut down from opening the door). There are options in the setup to disable this (called Disable MyKey). I installed my own One-Way setup in my 2011 Fusion in about 3-4 hours, being extra careful as to not break of the interior panels. I chose the one-way for battery life and range, rumor was that the two-way had less range than one-way. Plus two fobs are included by default in the one-way whereas only one fob is included in the two-way. Installation was pretty simple following the guide. I believe it was fully plug & play with the exception of 3 or 4 wires. All but one were located in the drive's side kick panel while the last I managed to get up on the steering column harness (horn wire maybe). Could be installed with as few as 2 splices I think if you didn't want some of the safety features like door open or dome light on. Also, you guys know these are not really "Ford" factory remote starts, right? They are made by a company which Ford licensed and gave the knowledge to in order to make a system which tightly integrated with the factory setup. Yes, close enough I think, but a distinction worth noting.

Installed the AL2Z-19G364-A "101 1WAY MYKEY REMSTART" myself. It was very simple and cost me about $170 shipped. Originally, when I put my key in after being remote started, the engine would shut off. On bank 1 of the RMST, there is an option to "disable My Key". With it disabled, the engine no longer shuts off when I put my key in. If you can access the RMST programming button, you could change that setting yourself too. The only thing I don't like is that, for about 10 seconds after startup, you can't unlock the doors with the key fob. The dash gauges are all at the bottom for those 10 seconds. With my other cars I'd remote start while walking to them just to give it an extra few seconds of running before I drove off, had to stop that with the Fusion. I had considered getting the 2WAY kit because it was only about $50 more but there were three reasons I did not go that route. 1) Only comes with one 2WAY fob. 2) May have slightly worse range. 3) Battery dies quicker (waiting for a response).

Thanks guys. Hope this helps someone. I also installed the factory one way remote start but it was so simple there isn't much of a write-up to be done. I plan on installing an auto-dimming rear mirror with temp sensor and possibly some heated seat pads if I feel like attacking those hog rings. I think usually the backup sensors on cars are just a hair off. These match up just as good as other sensors i've seen. Heck, my Explorer just had black ones and didn't even try to match it. Here's a link to the same type of sensors I bought.

Display location. Used the "hard side" of the velcro on the bottom of the display unit to attach itself to the rear deck material. Completed install.

Used a grommet in the spare tire well. Sensor in place. There are little rubber stops on 4 sides. I took a very tiny flat head screwdriver to help push the rubber into the bumper, otherwise it would bunch on the outside of the bumper. Used some of the velcro which came with the unit for the control module. Passenger side backup light. All extra backup sensor kit wires neatly zip tied. Wires hooked up. Out of sight location. As I read someone else doing this, I thought it was a great idea to place the display on the rear deck since you should be looking backward anyway. Routed the wire out of sight.

$20 from Hong Kong through eBay. Overall, install went smoothly and I was pleased to not have to drill any holes through any metal to get the job done. As it is powered by the reverse lights and the unit beeps when powered up, that means it beeps just once every time I put the car in reverse. Oh well, I'll get used to it. Here are some pictures... Hole saw included with sensors. Looked at my Ford Explorer with OE backup sensors for reference. Locations marked. First hole drilled and sensor temporarily placed to ensure hole diameter was correct. All holes drilled.

How difficult is it to access the antenna base from the interior? I would rather just simply plug it in if that's all it is without having to coordinate and lose the car for a day.

I purchased a 2011 Fusion SE V6 a couple of months ago. I don't have a satellite subscription for it right now, but I was poking around and when SAT 1, 2 or 3 is selected, it displays ANTENNA FAULT. I attached a satellite antenna from my old home kit and was able to hear the channel which sates I am unsubscribed. I plugged the OE antenna plug back in and it said ANTENNA FAULT again. I know the car was previously owned by a rental company. Can you tell me if there is a location somewhere which may have been easily accessible to the rental company so they wouldn't have to remove the entire radio when someone decides to "purchase" satellite for their rental or not? If it sounds like the antenna is in fact broken, do you think this would be covered by the factory bumper to bumper warranty? The car was built in June of 2011. Thanks.

Can you take a picture of the port you found?

FWIW, my 2006 Explorer's heated mirrors turn on when the rear defrost is on as well.