Noahfreak

That's a bummer cbrian4. I envy your manual transmission. Been dealing with automatic transmission failures lately on my Fords (no longer own the Fusion though). To your question, it might be that the extended warranty applied to automatic transmission cars only due to the fact that this is a safety related extended warranty. It could be that due to the fact that you have a manual you have more control over the car by being able to take it out of gear and coast to the side of the road, whereas an auto would just very quickly decelerate on its own, therefore not as much of a safety issue with the manual. This may or may not be helpful, but I feel like it should be said anyway. It's a sub $100 part at this point, so I would try not to get too bent out of shape about it. Just buy one, swap it yourself (very easy job) and be done with it. Take solace in the fact that you don't have to change your motor and transmission within 15k of your current mileage like I did with my Ecoboost Flex (130k and 140k respectively). About 6 grand in repairs for me over the last couple years, and that's just for parts. Your 2.5L 4 and your manual transmission will probably go to 250k before you have any major issues, maybe more. Point being, it could be a lot worse.

"You can reset the oil life to whatever you want (90%, 80%, etc)" If you can do that, just change yours to 10% and take it in. When they straighten out the problem, switch back to the real oil life.

Sounds like you might have knocked a vacuum line off (or cracked one that's dry rotted from heat) or didn't seat the airbox properly. These engines are really sensitive to stuff like that. Even one clip unfastened on the airbox will make them run funny because it disturbs the flow over the MAF sensor. If it was a misfire condition due to the spark plugs, it would likely set off a CEL. Check all your vacuum lines and all of the fittings on the intake. Also, that many miles and 8 years old, could be something completely unrelated to your tune up job.

Sorry, couldn't find the one I had, but there are places to find them if you look for a while. There's a guy on another Ford forum saying that he will send you any TSB via private message because he couldn't find them reliably hosted anywhere. I'm assuming there's a reason you don't see them up on the internet for very long, so give that guy a PM. I'd get more specific, but it would probably violate a forum rule or two. Edit: Found it - http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM451434/CSC-10054926-3569.pdf You can get pretty much any TSB or recall you want there it looks like. One of the few times the government actually came through for me, lol.

Holy crap. Just found this after seeing your comment about it an earlier thread. That is awesome! That late model Mustang you passed sounded like it was a V8 and it looked like you still pulled on it in the straights! Was it maybe a 2010 with the 4.6? Even so, still very impressive for a front drive commuter car. It looks like you were out-driving quite a few of the faster cars there in these two videos. Nice job.

Not everyone can afford to have two newer cars and/or don't have a place to store a recreation-only vehicle, and need the 4-door for family hauling. If Ford made a 4-door Mustang (mid-size, rear drive), that's what I'd be driving instead of the Fusion. That's why BMW sells so many 3-series 4-doors, because it's basically the same thing as a performance coupe, but with 4-doors. I have an F150 for hauling, the Fusion as my daily (because the F150 averages 14 mpg) and an Escape as my wife's daily. One more car would be out of control expensive, and we live in the city, so there's no place to park another car. I'm not leaving a $30k car parked on the street either. Almost guaranteed a car like that would get stolen around here.

Seems like normal shifting to me. That whining doesn't sound right though. Last time I had that noise it was a water pump. It was brand new and sounded like a supercharger. Manufacturer replaced it free of cost though.

On most cars with the manual controls, clocking the temperature dial all the way to the left will kick the A/C on automatically. This was the same for my wife's old Toyota and my '12 Fusion with the manual controls in it. Maybe that's what you've got happening.

Got mine serviced today at Kearny Pearson Ford here in San Diego for the shift flare issue under warranty. Great guys and easy to deal with. They reprogrammed the TCM (12-6-12 TSB) and it seems to be working fine so far. They also did the most recent PCM update for the 13B17 recall, so it won't go into limp mode if the throttle body stops communicating. Overall, I like the way it drives better. It shifts more predictably, with no flares or slamming, although the shifts are a little firm right now, but that's fine by me. They say the firmness will smooth out after the adaptive learning phase. It also feels like slightly better throttle response, with better low end grunt. Might just be an effect of the transmission holding higher gears better though. I'll post an update if the problems return.

Agreed. Unless you read it from a public statement or actual official memo from Ford corporate, I wouldn't go off of the statements in that powerstroke feed. Besides, the explanation of which transmissions are affected and why is very ambiguous and not clearly stated. That said, the real killer of any transmission will be heat, not necessarily the amount of torque the engine puts out. Any of the Fusion engines have enough torque destroy this transmission under the right circumstances. If that post has any credibility and the LV fluid is actually causing clutch damage on some transmissions, it would ultimately result in slippage and a commensurate buildup of heat, causing more slippage, then more heat and so on in a runaway self destruction cascade. Also, once those solids get into the fluid and build up in the filter, the line pressure might drop some as well, which is another thing that could cause it to not shift properly or fail to hold gears under load.

I have second-hand knowledge through a friend of mine. He put another brand of synthetic oil into his recently rebuilt engine after noticing it was down a quart. Engine seized up within minutes. Not knowing why it happened he went to drain the oil pan before pulling the engine, and very little came out. Upon dismantling he found that a gelatinous goo was in place of the oil. This caused a loss of oil pressure and locked it up. Lucky for him he only had to have the crank re-polished with new main and rod bearings, as it happened at idle. If it had been under power, the damage would have been much worse. If you've done research on individual brands and they give the go ahead to mix, you can go with that if you like. Who knows, maybe synthetic manufacturers have changed their formulations to compensate, as this was more than 15 years ago. I don't remember the brands either. I just know I avoid mixing brands of synthetics after he told me that story. He's an engineer, a very good mechanic and the one of the most honest people I know, so I trust that he was telling me to truth. I've heard the same advice given on the bobistheoilguy forums as well. Some of the engineers that frequent that forum know infinitely more about oil than I do, so even with your info from Amsoil, RedLine and Mobil1, I'll continue to avoid mixtures of synthetic oils in my vehicles.

Sounds like it was similar to this: Glad you got it figured out.

I'd look at motor and trans mounts. I've also heard about an issue with Fords where the CV half shaft doesn't engage properly with the hub and will make a noise similar to what you describe, so check for slop there. You may have bad CV joints too. If those check out I'd start looking at suspension bushings and links. Clicking and popping doesn't sound like any transmission internal issue I've ever heard of.

If you're still under warranty, I'm pretty sure that putting anything but the recommended Mercon LV ATF in there will void it. I don't believe that Ford has approved any other brands of fluid to be used in these transmissions. Unless you hear it directly from Ford in a public written statement, you're playing with fire. And yes, if you need a new transmission under a warranty repair, they will investigate what kind of fluid is in there, as it's an extremely expensive repair. That said, it doesn't necessarily mean it's the only fluid that will work in the 6F35. I'm a big fan of synthetic oils, but don't have a preference. I think any synthetic or synthetic blend will outperform any conventional. Just make sure you don't mix brands. For example, if you run Royal Purple, don't add a quart of Mobil 1 when the engine uses a little oil over time. You can add the same brand of synthetic or any kind of conventional. If you mix brands of synthetic, there's the potential that they'll react with each other and turn into a gel, which will cause a loss of oil pressure, followed by catastrophic engine failure.

Yes, they have one for the 3.0. The air boxes on the 06-09 are the same on the 10-12, which is the only thing the Steeda kit replaces. It uses the factory intake tube and MAF sensor as far as I can tell. It doesn't have a CARB EO though so I can't use it.

How have your long term results been RockAboutBaby? I'm very frustrated with the 6F35, even when it's doing what it's supposed to. I've been driving a car with a manual for the last 6 years, so it's incredibly annoying to deal with. Now that I've got the 2-3 and sometimes 3-4 shift flare, I'm wondering if I even want to keep the car at all. I was planning to wait until powertrain warranty is out and buy a tune to fix the shift points, but i'm also wondering about whether the calibration will fix the flares as well. If you've consistently had good shifting by running premium for several months, it's definitely a calibration issue, and I think I'll just buy the tune now and be done with it. They tend to firm them up with the performance tunes, which is good for longevity. Warranty be damned. Update: took it in under warranty anyway just in case something goes wrong with the trans before 60k. Seems to shift better for now with the 12-6-12 TSB reprogram done. Will report back if it returns.

I've searched for weeks across many forums for different Ford vehicles with the Duratecs and have not heard one person give a definitive answer to the following, so hopefully someone here knows an answer (aka, someone who has actually swapped transmissions between these engine families). Are the bell-housing patterns on the 2.3/2.5L and the 3.0L Duratecs the same? The part numbers on the ford parts website are the same for both the 2.5 and 3.0 6F35 transmission case, but they won't give you the whole part number until you buy it, so I can't be 100% sure based off of that information. I understand that there would be computer, flywheel and clutch issues, but I'm only interested in knowing if these units will physically bolt together without modification. Thanks all.

I troubleshot an issue very similar to this on a Corvette once. Turned out to be a fuel line check valve had failed. Car would crank but not start. After a few tries it would get enough fuel pressure to start and would be fine after that because the fuel pump stays on continuously during running. The check valve wasn't holding pressure on startup long enough for the car to start. I'm not sure where that check valve would be on the Fusion fuel system (might be built right into the fuel pump), but it's something to look at.

For a 300w inverter, you need at least a 25 amp circuit for your 12V power supply. Ford's suggested output of 180W is an indication that it's a 15A circuit, so you'll probably blow a fuse.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by ear fatigue, but I always have good luck with Sony when it comes to car speakers. They're usually not too pricey either in my experience. I've never used JBLs in my cars, but I have a set of powered PA speakers by them and they are amazing. Make sure you don't go too big. If they're over-rated for the head unit you're using, the bass will get worse because it won't be able to drive those magnets. If you're using the stock head unit, you'll want to go with lower end stuff.

I was told valve body wear was a problem with the 6F35 all the way up to the 12 model year. It's a common failure point for these. These transmissions darken the fluid even when they're working normally because of the clutch friction material, so the only way to tell if it's burnt is to smell it. It's also been noted that a bad miss will make the transmission act funny too, so make sure the engine is 100%.

Could also be the capless fuel filler. That's a common failure on these and would set an EVAP code. Sometimes this can be fixed by squirting some WD40 on there and working it back and forth with the emergency fuel funnel included with the car. Ford Says not to stick any other type of funnel in there. I'm not sure why. It would also be easy for them to knock the EVAP hose loose while they're doing the throttle body. Take a look around there to see if the hose is disconnected or cracked.

I had an identical issue on my F150 (250,000 miles). I replaced the battery, starter and solenoid and the problem continued. Replaced the positive and negative battery terminals, cleaned the battery posts and added an extra ground cable to the engine and that cleared it right up. Even if the connections look clean, clean them anyway. If that doesn't fix it, replace the terminals and connectors. If the cables are damaged, replace those too.

The Dorman unit is supposedly stronger according to reviews. Looked almost identical to the original though with a slight variation where the main handle triggers the lock to open. The 10-12 handles are the same part number as the older Fusions as well.

I wouldn't be surprised at all if it's still the same issue because it disconnects completely from the adjuster when the bulb is pushed into the assembly. Mine just happened to be resting on the adjuster, so it would move some when I cranked it. If you pull the bumper and headlight and pull the back cover off the assembly, you'll notice the problem right away. The piece inside with the actual headlight socket will be flopping around because it's disconnected from the adjuster. If something is fractured, I'm sure even the aftermarket manufacturer has a warranty. If you're not particularly handy, just take it back to the guy who did the collision repairs. It's his fault because he did the work and chose the parts, unless of course you've monkeyed with the headlights since he did. He's done this before so it should take him less than a half hour. Good luck!