MOHPro

2012 2.5 / gas. When I turn my headlights on, alternator makes constant high pitch whine. I listened to it with my mechanic's stethoscope and I can also hear a grinding noise coming from within the alternator. When at idle battery voltage is 14.4. Voltage drops to about 14.3 with all electtonics on at idle. When I put the car in reverse, and let it roll back on its own, the voltage drops to about 12.4 - 13.1 volts for a brief moment and the rpm drops down to about 4 - 500 rpm then goes back up to normal voltage and rpm. If I put the car in reverse and accelrate backwards, when I come to a stop it does the same thing. Then while at a stop, when I put the car in drive it dpes the same thing. Alternator is Mechman High Output alternator and had it for about 2 - 2.5 years. Got it for my aftermarket stereo system. I still have the factory alternator which is still in good condition and was removed when I installed the Mechman at about 35K miles. Car now has 98K miles. So all i will have to pay for is a belt and tensioner. Will let everyone know what happens when I put the factory alternator, new belt, and new tensioner in. In the mean time feel free to chime in.

It will drain after sitting about 2 days to the point where it won't start. I do trip the door latch when I have the door open to prevent draw while checking the fuses under the dash When I disconnected the negative battery cable to check for how much of a draw, I did it right away, I did not wait a couple hours.

2012 SEL. Had a bad battery and replaced it (yes, the battery was actually tested to confirm it was bad, I didn't just guess at it). Now I have a parasitic draw (60ma) measured by fully charging the battery, disconnecting the negative battery terminal, putting one multimeter test lead on the negative battery terminal and the other on the negative cable. With the negative cable re-connected to the battery, I then proceeded to peeform a voltage drop test across all fuses in the engine compartment fuse box with my multimeter set to 200mv. The readings for all of these fuses immediately dropped to zero. I then went inside of the car and began a voltage drop test across fuses in the fuse box under the driver dash. I have not finished testing all of them yet. When I checked the ignition switch fuse, it stayed steady at 0.2mv. Two questions: 1.) With my meter set to 200mv, would this reading be 2 tenths of a millivolt? 2.) Is it normal for the ignition switch to drawer current with the key out of the ignition? Today the battery light came on after starting the car and putting it in reverse. When I put it in reverse it sounded like it was about to shut down. I know the alternator is good because with the car running and all electronics powered on the battery voltage is about 14.28. Another way I know the alternator is good is because when I shut the car off the battery voltage is higher than what it was before I started the car. All electronics in the vehicle are in working order except for the auto up for the driver's window. All lights work as they should when turned on and off (head lights, fog lights, high beams, side markers, directionals, hazards, reverse lights, parking lights, map and dome lights, and ambient lighting). Radio powers on and off appropriately. Both heated seats work. All lights on the interior switches illuminate. All of the windows and locks operate from each door. Sun roof operates correctly. Fan, a/c and heat all operate correctly. Trunk light turns on when trunk is opened and off when trunk switch is depressed. Vanity mirror lights work appropriately. The map and dome lights turn on when each door is opened and turn off after each door is closed. I am thinking maybe I should do some further testing on the ignition switch using the detailed instructions from my all data diy subscription Forgot to mention sticker on battery says 9/18 so only about 6 months old. Also, with the negative battery cable disconnected, the headlights, map and dome lights, power windows and door locks, trunk light and power seats still work. Bad door switch maybe? Im confused.

The driver window auto up doesn't work on my 2012 SEL. The auto down works and both the auto down and auto up on the passenger window work. What could be the cause of the driver's window auto up not working?

I have a 2012 SEL 2.5L with 59k miles. The last time I brought my car to the Ford dealership for an oil change (56k miles), I was told that the technician reccomended a transmission flush because the transmission fluid was a darker red color and not bright red. Is a little discoloration normal, or is it suppose to stay bright red all the time? The transmission is not skipping, slipping, or shifting loud or rough, etc. I believe the owner's manual doesn't call for a transmission flush until 120k miles. I'm trying to determine if I actually need the transmission flush or if the dealership is just trying to get money out of me. Any thoughts or suggestions?

I own a 2012 SEL and recently completed a sound system install. The install involved removing practically the entire interior of the car. I will post the fastener size for each interior component I removed (I might have missed some) along with many pictures. This will more than likely take me several days to post all the pictures so please follow this post if you want notifications of any updates I make to it. I hope some of you can find this pictorial useful should you need to remove any interior components of your car. Fastener Sizes: negative battery terminal bolt: 8mm splash guard bolt: 7mm alternator mounting bolt: 13mm alternator mounting stud nuts: 15mm alternator mounting studs: 7mm or 1/4 alternator battery cable nut: 13mm alternator tensioner bolts: 10mm Ground strap: 8mm or 5/16 passenger seat seat belt anchor bolt: 13mm All seat bolts: 13mm rear seat bolsters: 10mm spare tire: 19mm factory sony amp mounting bolts: 10mm trunk pull down strap: T 27 C pillar bolts: 8mm Rear seat belts: T 50 Rear doors inside door handle trim: T 20 Rear doors arm rest trim panels: 7mm Rear doors upper door trim panel: T 20 Rear doors speaker screws: T 20 B pillar bottom bolt: 10mm B pillar upper bolt: 8mm Driver seat belt bolt: T 50 Rear Hangars (the things attached to the headliner that you can hang clothes from or hold on to if the driver is driving like a maniac and you are scared): 2 phillips screws Front doors inside door handle trim: T 20 Front doors armrest trim panel: 7mm Front doors upper and lower door trim panel: T 20 Front doors speaker screws: T 20 Front door tweeters: phillips screws Center console rear bolts: 7mm Center speaker storage bin: 8mm Front center speaker: 7mm Dash tether: 10mm Radio trim panel: 7mm Radio: 7mm Rear doors inside handle retaining bolts and silver metal inner door trim: 8mm Power window motors: T 20

I have a 2012 SEL. I will be installing a kenwood dnn992 with idatalink maestro. I cant find a regular wiring harness anywhere. I just need the basic harness with power, ground etc

Samturner, Ive been meaning to ask you....do you have driver's priority unlock hooked up? If you do, would you be so kind as to help me out with how to do it? Thanks in advance

Sounds like the radio.is.staying on not SYNC. You sure youre shutting the radio off?

I purchased the firsttech alarm upgrade kit that comes with the siren, LED, and shock sensor. The siren works fine but is not that loud. I read that there is a black looped wire you can cut to make the siren louder but there isnt one on my siren. Can anyone help?

Good to know the rear defroster works. Im wondering if there is a separate wire behind the hvac controls specifically for the rear defrost button light.

My r/s does have this programmable feature. Thats great I will program it soon...here is what it says... 3-03 Dome Light Delay: This option is used when connecting the door trigger input to the vehicles dome light circuit. It delays the door trigger input to prevent the door open icon displaying on 2 Way remotes upon lock/arm. FO1- Off: (default) FO2 - 5 seconds: This option will delay the door trigger input for 5 seconds when arming the system to account for any vehicle dome light output delay. FO3 - 45 seconds: This option will delay the door trigger input for 45 seconds when arming the system to account for any vehicle dome light output delay. FO4 - Auto: This option will allow the CM7 to wait for a change in polarity on the door input circuit, after the system has been armed, to monitor for security.

Also, you said you have the r/s dome light wire hooked up. Do your dome lights turn off as soon as you shut your door?

And you will be able to control each seat separately

I'm assuming you programmed that wire to either rear defrost or auxiliary? The white/orange is the correct wire for rear defrost. One important thing to note is when you activate rear defrost with the r/s, the light on the rear defrost button in the car will not come on. I don't know the reason for this, but it still works. Be sure to set it to latched. One way to test is to put a test light to the r/s defrost wire while its connected to the white/orange wire. The test light should change when you press the rear defrost button in the car or activate it with the r/s. This is how to tell its hooked up correctly. The driver heated seat wire is white/blue and the passenger is gray/yellow. These should also be set to latch. You will have full control over both seats with the r/s remote.just like I do. What i mean is you will be able to switch between on/hi , low, and off with the r/s remote. I programmed these wires aux 1 and aux 2 and are also located behind the hvac controls. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need clarification.

I have a firsttech (compustar) 7200 s. I also bought the alarm kit which comes with siren, led, and 3 in 1 sensor I have a 2012 sel. I have both heated seats and rear defroster hooked up as well.

Is there anything else you need help hooking up? Let me know will do my best to help

Thanks for the info samturner...unfortunately last night i ended up running a wire from the trunk light wire in the trunk to the r/s up front. I tried a relay before i did that but i had the relay wired to reverse polarity on the trunk trigger wire under the dash at the sjb. I did that because initially when i connected the trunk trigger wire from the r/s directly to the trunk pin wire at the sjb, the alarm went off with the trunk closed, so i thought it was a polarity issue. Guess I was wrong. When you have a min would you be able to look at the relay and let me know what color relay wire is connected to what number pin on the relay? Ex. White wire connected to pin 86 etc. I will post pics anyways of how i have the trunk trigger hooked up. As far as the door trigger wire, I connected it to the courtesy light wire. The 12 fusion has a + courtesy light so be sure to set your r/s to + door trigger. The one tiny downfall of using the courtesy lamp wire for door trigger is if u have a siren, u have to wait till the dome light go out, about 30 sec. , if u want the siren to chirp when u hit the lock button. Other than that it will still lock/arm fine when using the courtesy light wire. This is because the alarm will read as a door open as long as the courtesy lamps are on when using that wire for door trigger.

Samturner, i am having the same problem with my 12 sel. Installed a remote start/alarm. The trunk trigger wire for the alarm is negative. When i hooked it up to the trunk pin wire in the car, the alarm would go off with the trunk closed but not when its opened. As far as the door trigger input wire using the courtesy lamp wire works fine.

I have a 2012 SEL. I installed a python remote start with a xpresskit dball bypass using the d2d method and it worked flawlessly. Wanted to upgrade my remote start so got a compustar. Took the python out and put it in my taurus. installed the compustar RS module (FT-7200) with the same xpresskit DBALL bypass. Had to do w2w this time since the RS module doesnt support xpresskit in d2d, only fortin and idatalink. Car started no problem with remote start, unlocked and locked fine with remote, popped the trunk with the remote no problem, heated seats turn on with remote as well as rear defroster. Also the remote disarmed the factory alarm with unlock as well as the trunk pop. Perfect that all this works BUT...when I have my door open for a good length of time, about 10 seconds after the dome lights go out, the green LED blinks rapidly on the bypass module then my car acts as if a key was put into the ignition and turned forward to the ignition position, the fuel pump turns on and instrument cluster lights come on as they would if you put the key in the ign. Position. It even does this when the doors are closed and the car is locked and repeats about every 10 minutes or so. I checked my wiring 3 times over and confirmed that all my connections were made correctly. I unplugged the bypass module and kept the RS module connected and this weird stuff stopped, and thats how I confirmed it was a problem with the bypass module. Reprogrammed my keys to the bypass twice and that didnt fix this problem. Anyone know what might cause this? Maybe a bad idea to use DEI bypass with firsttech product due to compatibility reasons? Im considering getting a fortin bypass since i know its compatible with firsttech/compustar and i will be able to use d2d as well with the fortin. Any thoughts or suggestions?

I have a 2012 SEL. I installed a python remote start with a xpresskit dball bypass using the d2d method and it worked flawlessly. Wanted to upgrade my remote start so got a compustar. Took the python out and put it in my taurus. installed the compustar RS module (FT-7200) with the same xpresskit DBALL bypass. Had to do w2w this time since the RS module doesnt support xpresskit in d2d, only fortin and idatalink. Car started no problem with remote start, unlocked and locked fine with remote, popped the trunk with the remote no problem, heated seats turn on with remote as well as rear defroster. Also the remote disarmed the factory alarm with unlock as well as the trunk pop. Perfect that all this works BUT...when I have my door open for a good length of time, about 10 seconds after the dome lights go out, the green LED blinks rapidly on the bypass module then my car acts as if a key was put into the ignition and turned forward to the ignition position, the fuel pump turns on and instrument cluster lights come on as they would if you put the key in the ign. Position. It even does this when the doors are closed and the car is locked and repeats about every 10 minutes or so. I checked my wiring 3 times over and confirmed that all my connections were made correctly. I unplugged the bypass module and kept the RS module connected and this weird stuff stopped, and thats how I confirmed it was a problem with the bypass module. Reprogrammed my keys to the bypass twice and that didnt fix this problem. Anyone know what might cause this? Maybe a bad idea to use DEI bypass with firsttech product due to compatibility reasons? Im considering getting a fortin bypass since i know its compatible with firsttech/compustar and i will be able to use d2d as well with the fortin. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Is this some kind of common feature in remote starts then when you press the button to shut it down from a diatance it actually resets the runtime and only shuts it down when up close?