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Mr.Nobody

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Everything posted by Mr.Nobody

  1. 110k miles, and have not replaced the stock spark plugs and wires. Just got the oil pan replaced and transmission drain and refilled 1.5 weeks ago, only been driving it locally by my wife. Today she came home with CEL on, and I got P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit Voltage High (bank 2, sensor2) and P0316 (detected misfire within first 1000 revs). What might be the root causes for these two codes? My plan is to get the spark plugs and wires (according to my reading, ignition coil do not need to be changed unless it is the cause of misfire) first, and then see about the O2 sensor. Any experiences or advice is appreciated. PS: I could not find the OEM part number for the spark plug wires from parts.ford.com, does this car come with it? I was only able to find a few aftermarket models at Rockauto.com.
  2. When I searched at parts.ford.com with my VIN, it actually showed two models of 12v battery shown as "fit", BXT67R and BAGM96R. I think the factory one is the 67R IIRC, is this 96R an updated version of it? 96R is around 200, while the 67R is about 160 around my local dealerships. Thanks a lot.
  3. My TPMS has a faulty alert on now after being on and off intermittently for the past couple of years. Seems like the TPMS sensors need to be swapped out. Generally I know that it should be done when installing the new tires to save some labor, but I probably won't need new tires for another year or two. Wonder if it makes sensor just to buy the sensors and ask my local garage to put them on or live with it and check TP myself from time to time which I do not mind that much. I don't know if there are other reasons to have the sensors installed during the tire installation other than saving the inevitable labor to discount the tire from rims. Thanks a lot.
  4. Oh and for folks who paid out of pocket for the TSB before this 22G04 thing, you should be able to get refund from dealership according to the mail I got. Says you have one year from the notice to get it no-cost, otherwise it would only be free for cars within certain mileage range (too old, too used, gotta pay).
  5. Install the forscan software first, and move the key file you got from them to the folder where forscan was installed. Then in the software setting/configuration (about software), there is a button to install key file.
  6. Update: Interesting how it panned out. So I wasn't able to make the veepeak usb adapter connect at all after trying it on two laptops (win10 and win11), and multiple different software, drivers, etc. I plugged in my bafx bluetooth adapter and it connected to forscan fine, although a warning msg saying it is underpowered and not recommended. I was able to locate the battery age and change it to 1, write it. However, I wasn't able to "disconnect" from forscan, clicking that disconnect icon did not do anything. I also heard about some noise when I wrote the value in, and I actually see the "stop safely now" warning sign immediately after the value writing. I turn off and on ignition, and everything appeared normal, no warning etc. I unplugged and plugged back in the bluetooth adapter and checked the battery age to be one as written. My battery gauge was low at that moment, so the ICE kicked in and started to charge the HVB, and stopped at about half way. Took it out for a ride, first change I noticed is the EV gauge increased. Before that, my EV gauge (green bar) was maybe two bars (solid green) in empower mode, and now it goes to about 4 bars, with 2bars solid green and the top 2bars empty below a green boarder. Also, the car stays in EV mode much longer and frequently. I can go at 20mph for EV mode easily, but above that it would be going downhill or after ICE kicked in for the acceleration. I drove for 2.4miles, with two big uphills, although I noticed the difference in EV mode, the mpg was only 25 for this short trip. I also noticed that when going downhill, if ICE is not on, HVB is not charging (no upward arrow), although I vaguely recall before the fix, it would. Can you guys tell me if everything looks normal so far? Bought the veepeak usb adapter, installed the driver and all. But forscan release software would not recognize the adapter at all, I can see two green lights flashing, when it tries to connect through the right COM port, but would never connect. Any ideas how to solve this?
  7. OK. Seems to be a similar swap job except maybe the need to loosening up air intake to access bolts. My 2010's battery probably is close to 8 yrs old, but not having any low battery symptoms yet, do I want to go proactive and put a new OEM on? What are the early symptoms that the battery is weak for this hybrid? I hate to get SSN type of thing, losing power at highway etc... Also when getting the battery from ford dealer, do they have core charge as well (you need to return the old battery back?). BTW, AAP has a DieHard exact fit 67R too, about $200, not sure if their coupons can apply to that.
  8. Where do you guys get the coolant for this electronic motor reservoir other than ford dealership? VC-10-A2 Green coolant from owner's manual. Also when checking on ford part number, this vc-10-a2 also has a vc-13-g listed, but vc-13-g is orange coolant. Which type is it exactly or they are interchangable? I suppose the engine coolant just use the regular coolant for ICE right?
  9. I've always been a little anxious when it comes to having my local shop to do maintenance/repair on the hybrid other than oil change, as there are some differences between the regular ICE version Fusion and the hybrid. For example, can the coolant flush be done by non-dealer (there are two different coolant reservoirs, seemingly different coolant type)? Is there specific things need to be set for the brake rotor and pads replacement (coz of the regen) that only dealer know how to? I have a few of these items overdue, so far I don't have any problems, but would want to get myself ready when I need to bring the car in. Thanks so much.
  10. Can you point to some instruction on how to change that? And what might be the symptoms when it started to have problems?
  11. I've changed my ICE mercury milan's battery a couple of times. So if I buy the OEM motorcraft battery, is it the same process/sequence to swap it on? I never had to "reset" anything when changing the ICE car's battery (2008 car, so not that much electronics portion). The owner's guide has all that info I suppose? Thanks a lot.
  12. The perfectionist side of me is also curious what's in the TSB fix, as it contains more than the battery control reprogram, although the practical side is saying don't be paranoid for this 12 yr old car. Would be nice, if someone who got the TSB fix would be able to share (maybe with the scan) what else (i.e. PCM program) is done. $12 is for one year of forscan license right, not lifetime? Also, i noticed some minor oil leaking from bottom a day after the spark plug change, not sure what exactly caused it. How did you find out cylinder 2 and 3 is leaking oil? Some oil on the spark plugs?
  13. Is there a recommend replacement battery other than the stock motorcraft? I vaguely recall that the stock battery has some weaker specs than desirable, also there need to be additional steps compared to the regular ICE cars (reset hybrid setting etc). Is it an easy DIY or more suitable for dealership? Thanks a lot.
  14. I've been experiencing mpg drop for a couple of years, never would've thought about the battery control. I actually changed spark plugs two days ago because of this. Found the TSB info over reddit and google lead me back to the forum. Bought it used back in 2016 with 85k miles, was able to get 42mpg in the first couple of years, but now, only hovering around 30-31mpg currently at 112k miles. A few questions: 1. Now with the official TSB out, would dealer do this "upgrade" for free or at charge? I do need to take the car in for the airbag recall, so if free, I'd let them do it. 2. Does a bluetooth OBDII reader device work with Forscan software too, especially the writing part? I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3. OP says reset back to year 1, my only question is if that would change the battery control too aggressively? Not sure the exact control algorithm, esp the difference between yr 1 to say yr 5 though, but I'd think for a new battery, the charging/maintenance control could be vastly different. 4. A related issue is, do you guys feel the throttle body replacement would be a relevant maintenance work even though I have not experienced any "wrench" problem. Actually the 1st owner did experienced it and ford dealer took care of it (not sure if throttle body got swapped out then). Thanks a lot. Edit:
  15. Take of the wheel, it could be an entirely worn out pad because of sticking caliper or maladjusted parking brake. Check the pad condition.
  16. Some updates on this. My mechanic adjusted the parking brake cable. Initially he claimed that it was out of adjustment coz when handle pulled up, and car in reverse, parking brake alone could not stop the car. I never tested in this way, but it could stop the car when in D gear by itself. Also it pulled to oneside with parking brake applied and a tap of gas. He adjusted the equalizer (which did tilted towards the left, not in a level position) back to the level position, and verified that now pulled up 5 clicks, the car could be stopped by parking brake alone in R gear. Anyway, after all these, I testdrove it, 50 miles highway, and noticed that the rear Right wheel was much hotter than the rest three wheels (after parked for 30 mins in garage). Initially we were doing all these because rear Left brake pads worn out to metal. Test drove it next morning, a 5-7 mile local drive (about 15mins), still, the right rear is hotter compared to other three. Now does it sound like the parking brake cable needs to be replaced? I had some doubts on if it's normal during the "break in" period of the new pads. Drove 2 mile round trip to drop off my kiddo, all four wheels seem to be cool/lukewarm to touch. Don't know if 2 mile is too short for the brake to heat up though. Any other thoughts?
  17. 2008 Mercury Milan AWD, had both front and back rotors/pads replaced less than a year ago. Came to find out that the rear left brake pad on the outboard side was worn down to metal, but the inboard one still had a lot left. nothing abnormal on the right side. The front looked fine. Checked the calipers, no seized pins, pistons moved fine. Mechanic I worked with mentioned that it could be caused by parking brake being out of adjustment and always making contact to rotor even if it was in disengaged status. I did apply parking brake every time but did not feel anything abnormal when applying it and never drove with it applied. I don't know if adjusting the parking brake would solve the problem. Thanks in advance.
  18. My wife has been driving this 08 Milan AWD, and today she told me that the left headlamp went off, and the check headlamp notification was on the driving panel. It was OK when she drove out but the car was parked at the park and ride for the day and after work she noticed the warning.. I checked the assembly and looks like there is a metal ring that was on the low beam somehow dropped inside the assembly. I checked a few youtube vids about Milan headlight bulb change (2006, could not find 2008 model, but should be the same?), seems like no need of bumper cover removal or other extensive work. My question is, what is the purpose of that metal ring, and would it be a problem if I just replace the bulb (as a first step, no guarantee that would fix the problem?) Thanks a lot.
  19. Hey fellow Fusion/Milan owner, I just noticed that there was a squeaking noise if I turn on the AC/Heat while driving. If I turn off the AC (climate control), the noise stopped and I did not hear the noise with AC on while parked as well. I did some research online and some one claimed it's the loose belt, question is which belt was it? The serpentine belt or some other belts? I changed a serpentine belt on my 01 Taurus DOHC before, it was fairly easy, no crawling under the car, was it the same thing with this Milan? Thanks a lot.
  20. From the shop manual, several parts store and talking to ford parts people, it looks like the front wheel bearing is not pressed in the hub, but to the spindle, therefore there's no such all-in-one wheel hub assembly for this year model? And for AWD model, the rear suspension is the same, while the FWD's rear does have those wheel hub assembly readily available. Is that the case? So how would you DIYers go about replacing new wheel bearing? Do you have to take the spindle to the guy with press and put new bearing on? I worked on my 01 taurus wheel hub, basically I just bought the assembly with hub and bearing and replace the old one. Can you clarify a little bit please?
  21. Having a hard time to find the right part, searched rockauto and aap, most of the wheel hub assembly (w/ bearing, ie. Motocraft HUB22) are marked as for rear, almost all of the front wheel hubs are marked as no bearing (i.e Motocraft HUB21). So are the front and back wheel hubs identical on this AWD model? Checked fordparts.com and they even do not list any wheel hub for this model at all, all they have is wheel bearing.
  22. Got this strange knocking sound at my front left side just yesterday, before that, I had strange grinding marks on my left front rotor's edge and a grinding sound while turning right at large angle or U turn right with low speed. Thought it was some tire issue because of the flapping sound, and went to Costco for balance and rotation. They refused to do the work and showed me the relatively large wiggle room when holding my left front tire and pull in and out. So was it a bad wheel bearing in the first place that cause the grinding on my rotor which then worsen the situation? I was astonished to see this happen after it passed the MD safety inspection two months ago when I bought it used, and a dealer rotation and inspection afterwards. Now comes down to changing the wheel bearing, I've done it for my old 01 taurus and it was royal pita, had to run to Autozone to loan some tools three times and took me and my friend at least three hours to pop out the ball joint and changed both sides. And for taurus, people just recommended replacing the wheel hub as a whole since it cost as much as pressing the new bearing. My questions here: 1. Is this 08 Milan following similar design for changing wheel hub? I need to pop out the LCA and ball joint and use a puller to get it out? 2. Any recommended brand of parts? I used some AAP wheel hub for the taurus and it lasted only about two years and started to have the wiggle again. However, when I check rockauto and AAP, the OEM Motocraft wheel bub was listed as without bearing. So there is no wheel hub assembly for this model? 3. I might go to professional to do it this time, so what else can I do simultaneously with all the labor involved to get the wheel hub out. I can think out rotor and pads change, any other suspension parts that are prone to fail that I should take care of it now? 4. Should I quit driving it until fixed? Now I just feel this knocking sound which goes faster as the speed is up. Thanks a lot.
  23. Hi, I bumped into this thread while searching. I have this 2010 Mercury Milan premier AWD at 64000 miles. A couple of weeks ago, I heard this metal grinding noise when I'm making a big right turn or U turn right at low speed, especially in a parking garage. It happened occassionally and I tried to pin point it to see if it's my CV. Anyway, I noticed that my front left rotor had worn/scraping marks at the very edge of the surface, looks like sth is grinding that part particular. Ready to replace the rotor and pads, but new problem came. The metal grding sound while turning went away, but I started to hear a faint knocking/popping sound from the front, it's definitely not the same left position I heard the metal grinding noise. This time the sound came from more centered location in the front. The faint knocking/rattling sound seems to be at higher frequency as the speed goes up (hear it from say 20-30mph and up). And it doesn't seem to relate to going over a bump or turning, basically I can hear the sound even driving on the flat road in straight. Also, the sound seems more obvious when braking too, but definitely is there without hitting the brake. Went to costco to check my four tires, pressure all normal and did not find any obvious nails, but they did not jack it up or really carefully check. So what could be the reason? Would it be the worn rotor and pads? I did not hear any metal squeaking sound while braking nor any pulsation. Car does not pull to any direction. Thanks.
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