mechaman

This is oh, so true. A couple months ago, I was having a no start, multiple alarm condition off and on: the first time, I popped the hood and just by chance touched one of the battery terminals. LOOSE. Ok, I tighten it... and a couple days later, problem recurs. I tighten them again. Then I see that they both are still a bit loose? I think the odd type of terminal clamps Ford used are the problem; you really can't tighten them like the old school clamps (which I happened to have, but couldn't put them in place of the OEM clamps) FORD, do better.

I finally worked up the courage and found the time to do the fix, and having the meter stay in the green and the mileage go up is wonderful!!

IT PASSED THE TEST! I don't know for a certainty that everything I did worked .... but if anyone else had troubles, this may help. First: Check the battery. My first failed test told me that the oxygen sensor wasn't responding/heater wasn't ready. I'd just had that serviced, so I doubted the part was dodgy. I learned afterwards that emissions sensors and the computer are sensitive to battery issues, even if there were no starting problems. I had the battery checked and replaced, as it was more than ten years old! (2010 Fusion) I also disconnected anything that didn't need to be even a slight drain on the battery (I'm talking accessories, not things like dome lights. My phone charger, for example) overnight or anytime I was not driving for more than a couple of hours. Second: Cataclean. I had this recommended to me by too many people to ignore it. It's pricy, coming in at about $25 US a bottle. Third: Don't fill up. Only go to 3/4 tank before the test. Why? Well, the second test failed both on the oxygen sensors AND the evaporation. It passed the evaporation test the first time ... that's when i found out that it's recommended to only have 1/2 to 3/4 tank for the test! Oops. Fourth: I did the drive cycle before the second test, but it failed ... this time, I turned the defrost on high AND had the A/C on during the drive cycle. I couldn't be certain, but the cycle has to be done without stopping the engine, and I wondered if the start/stop switch to the electric motor was interfering with that when I went to the start/stop driving part of the cycle. It SEEMED to keep the gas engine going, so I kept the defrost/A/C thing going until I got to the facility. If I'm wrong, I don't mind being corrected...BUT...the third time was the charm, it passed!

It's not showing codes, but an ODB checker says that the oxy sensor and circuit 'aren't ready'. I'm leaning toward the battery

Does this apply to earlier model Fusions? I have a 2010 Hybrid

Thanks, I think it may be the battery voltage (12 volt battery), will be checking it

I just had service on my 2010, and got a letter offering me three free months of service. I tried it when I got the car a year ago, but there's no programming that matches my tastes, so I really don't care about it.

My 2010 Hybrid failed the Illinois emission test: according the readout, a sensor/sensors wasn't ready. The car had an oxy sensor replaced almost a month ago (Nov.20th) and has been driven various ways and distances since then, so I'm really befuddled here, and I need to get this figured out before the 31st!

UPDATE: Finally took it to a dealer ... it was the lower sensor. Wish I could have gotten away with the top one, I had a replacement for that one; at least I won't have to sweat the emissions test this month.

It's the upper sensor, and if you mean the engine cover (it's a hybrid) yes, I did.

I'm having this code, and was not able to budge the sensor (yet), and I've read some of the other fixes. What I'd like to know is if anyone knows of a reliable shop in the Chicago area that can fix thsi, or should I go to a dealer?

komondor, I see we have seized on the same solution. I actually stumbled on that before I found the forum. I'll bet what's tripping him up is the 'name' part of his file. That's gotta go - he can always rename the file after he burns a disc, provided he has his .mp3 file tags correct. I almost screwed up a bunch of files, forgetting to edit the tags FIRST.

Has anybody ever used another make's audio equipment in a Fusion (or other Ford for that matter)? I saw a take out of a VW Jetta sound system, and it looks like it could just drop right in to a Fusion dash with little modifications, just getting the wires connected right. I know that's an odd question, but it seems to me there wouldn't be a huge difference in the systems.

Can't say I know for sure, but this is how I made the head unit play files in order (mp3). Edit all files with a MP3 editor (I use Mp3 Tag and ID-Tagit 3) to make sure you have titles, artists correct, no need to sweat cover images unless you need them for another player. Get a program named BULK RENAME UTILITY. This will allow you to rename the filenames quickly and in any order you want (by date, etc.) or individually. Rename the files with a number, starting with the first one, and so on. I like to start with 1000.mp3 for each disc. I open the renamed file/folder with Windows Media Player, click on the 'Burn' tab, and when it asks for 'unsaved list', click that and it should import the files in order for burning. Make sure you burn the disc as an .MP3 data disc, not an audio disc. My files now play in the order I want, showing in the display the song title first. I wound up doing this because I had 'recorded/downloaded' recorded internet radio programs and depending on the station, they crossfaded from song to song, so if you played them out of order, you'd hear the 'next' song start with part of the music from the 'last', but it wouldn't be the song you just heard ending, so it sounded all scrambled. I think you should omit the 'name' part of your file (001_name.mp3) and just go with (001.mp3), just make sure you edit those mp3 files to keep title, artist, album and such intact.

I put a set of 4-ways in place of the stock speakers, skipping the tweeters. Didn't notice a huge difference except in staging .. and not enough to concern over.