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jpohlman

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Everything posted by jpohlman

  1. The problem is due to the solder traces on the ACM circuit board lifting due to age. It's not widespread on the Fusion, the Escape ACMs seem to be more prone to this happening.
  2. Look over on 2gfusions.net, one guy has a decent write up about this. Basically for the puddle you need two small screwdrivers, one to push in the tab and one on the opposite side pushing inward so that you can get it out. The factory puddle lamps aren't made to have just the bulbs replaced, if you go with LEDs you need to make sure they have sufficient draw to keep the BCM from strobing power to them. The LED signal assembly requires popping off the mirror cap to change it out.
  3. Classic EVAP check valve issue. It's not a hard repair.
  4. Check the harness. The sensor is simple resistance, you can read it with a meter. It takes anywhere from 5-10 minutes of driving for the sensor to update the PCM, the sensor uses last data when the engine first starts.
  5. Turbo bearing? Tranny fluid pump? Can you only hear this inside? The newer X40 capable ACMs have a fan in them which the pre-X40s didn't have.
  6. Or since UNL88 is fairly new the stations tank for it got fully drained out before being initially loaded with UNL88. I've got a station close to me that I know not to get gas at after we have a hard rain, they've got an issue where the tanks get water because of the way the lot is graded.
  7. You also need to make changes to the BCM in ForScan and add wiring to the BCM for the LED unit data bus. If you go to pull these from salvage they are 3 wire units, +/-/data. The kit Ford sells cannot be controlled by the APIM, it consists of the modules used in the 2010-2012s and uses a manual momentary switch to change colors.
  8. You can, but it also requires the correct trim ring to hold it in place. Otherwise you still have the cover flap for the 12v socket still in place and you might as well buy a $15 12v dual usb adapter off eBay and save the removal work.
  9. The compact spare is the same size for all 2013-2020 Fusions, it doesn't matter if you have 16, 17, 18 or 19" wheels.
  10. The actual Fusion compact spare for ALL 2013-2020 is a 16" T125/80 R16, it doesn't matter if your factory wheels are 16. 147, 18 or 19. The only difference between: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-wheel-asy_cv6z-1015-b.html https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-wheel-asy_hp5z-1007-g.html Is that the more expensive one is made out of aluminum (sometimes natural color, sometimes painted black) instead of steel. https://www.ebay.com/itm/365036560708?fits=Year%3A2018|Model%3AFusion&_nkw=2018+fusion+compact+spare&itmmeta=01J74FR8NQMQ4T23AENQAQEYZW&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlXuZVeC68DszzUwIpeiPd7kqQNnbGr1AY0o4UKc0p5zeIlnCZ1X7Dq5XQYiR5QZ6ObS7XpY24zFmBtmgPORMuDW2QXguzMj7ONxK5hR8mv2QNEzI%2FAhdcsXnnvryp9BIWMrzR2IswEZCLG0HGghHG88OXRiDcsLbObGqCzCiiiW25EdTtntB0fU8l1VhRpVaU4MmD44bOZny7ao5WjhczOUDThRivEA6g%2BMeMeQUz0T8Gh70%2FJXtQrMDbs6aDOfItbG%2FwE65iOGBMYtLO3OgnQmle71kdHbFsrRDSC1r3onw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM-Irhj7lk
  11. You would need to replace the lens. DS7Z-10890-B https://www.searchfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-cluster-lens-ds7z10890b?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9Y2x1c3Rlci1hbmQtc3dpdGNoZXMmbD0zJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Zm9yZCZvPWZ1c2lvbiZ5PTIwMTkmdD10aXRhbml1bSZlPTItMGwtbDQtZ2Fz
  12. This is actually really easy to do, it take about 20 minutes to pull the nose, it's easier to set it back in place if you have two people but it can be done by one person. Personally having done this more than a few times it's way faster to pull the nose, pop the assemblies out and change the bulbs and fog lamp bulbs than it is to do the partial pop that just leans the nose forward a few inches. You do that and you have to fight the bulbs in which is a pain if you don't have the hands of a small child and then you still have to pull back the skirts or lower cover in order to do the fogs.
  13. There's a write up on this over on Cyanlabs, the H series that came in the 2017/2018 Platinums was a HS7T-14G229-MR H series TCUs can pretty much be used in any Fusion back to 2013, the functionality is going to vary based on the other modules in the car. The Ford kit for the Energi uses an H TCU for all years, the main difference in a Fusion is that the J series TCU gives you TPMS as well, both H & J series use the HS3 CANBUS. The K & L series TCUs use the HS4 CANBUS which is only present in 2019/2020 conventional & Hybrids (not the Energi). Technically a K or L can be used on a non-HS4 car, they have to have the firmware downgraded to a J level in order to work. You need to keep in mind a few things. 1) You can't just go to a yard or eBay, buy a TCU and drop it in a car. 2) In order to get the TCU to work you'll need ForScan with a paid extended license (if you have to upgrade firmware you need 2.4.x) and a GOOD adapter like an OBDLink EX, you have to get the unit reset to factory mode and then auth mode to get it provisioned 3) You have to make changes to the APIM AB for it to see the TCU 4) You will not be able to use the hotspot functionality in the unit, its registered with AT&T against the VIN of the donor 5) You will need a good AB file from a car that had that family TCU, eg a conventional Fusion could more than like use a JL3T series from an F150 with little or no changes, a Hybrid would need the AB from a 2017/2018 Platinum Hybrid for an H series, for a J it would need one from a 2019 Fusion Hybrid. 6) An Energi would require a good AB from one already converted, if one from a Hybrid is used the charge alerts/timer will not work in FordPass
  14. exFAT was developed for mobile device support and is fully supported on all versions of Windows after Vista/Server2008 and MAC OS X. For someone with MFT, the US/NA maps from A10 on came on an exFAT formatted SD (EU maps had always been on exFAT) which is why MFT had to be running 3.08 or later to use A10 maps. Sync3 actually handles media files on a USB drive better if it is formatted exFAT and a Sync3 update USB should be formatted an exFAT as well.
  15. Not exactly true, a TCU can be added there's a number of full write ups on cyanlabs and the F150 forum, but a dealer won't do the mod. Basically you need ForScan 2.4.x with an extended license, and H or J series TCU (J will give you TPMS as well as health & remote start, H won't give you TPMS), a FAKRA Blue cable, a true Ford PIFA antenna and the pigtail for the TCU. For a Ti I would make the HS3 CAN connections at the DSP in the trunk, you'll need to pull power for an always on source. With ForScan you need to get the TCU to at least -*M calibration and get the unit into factory mod, then auth mode and add the TCU to the APIM.
  16. Pretty simple, needs a new camera. In this case it's not the miles its the years and electronics fail over time.
  17. Depends on the year. The replacement drain plug that was factory OEM from 2011 forward has an integrated rubber washer. If you go to Ford parts or Dorman for one it will be that style.
  18. I'd look for a loose ground or a problem with the BMS sensor. For some reason Ford likes to power the data bus from the BMS power.
  19. Why not just pop the trunk lid trim and look at the connector? With any thing lower than a Ti that year the backup bulbs will be the only wires.
  20. Is this the temp that is showing on the screen when the AC is turned off? Ambient air sensor is on the right side of the radiator under the nose, the sunload sensor is the wart on the dash between the defroster vents.
  21. There is a thread over on 2gfusions.net about these
  22. The switch is actually part of the latch assembly, so you have to replace the entire assembly. Check to see if your car was covered on the latch recall, if it's still open on the recall list it will save you from paying for a new one.
  23. Are you doing the relearn using the rear door switch or the driver's door switch? The relearn has to be done on the affected door switch, not the drivers switch. A bad driver's door switch pack can also cause the problem.
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