NewNole2001

Is that how a trained mechanic does it - it takes two people - are you serious, does the car shoot forward if the nut behind the wheel pops the car into gear (thought there might be a jumper or something) ?

Damn dude, you asked a question, I gave an answer. "thanks" is how you pronounce that word you were looking for.

And yes, I've seen plenty of trained mechanics do just this type thing, whether pulling the throttle cable from the engine compartment or having an assistant or customer press the pedal while the mechanic listens to the noises being made to diagnose the problem.

And if you're that worried about the computer popping the car in to gear, then take the front wheels off the ground... problem solved.

Every now and then I want the ICE to run (to check for unusual noises under the hood etc) but how ?

Have someone press the throttle pedal all the way to the floor with the car in park and the ignition on.

If I had a dealer who was a Ahole like that I'd tell him he got the last of my business and the last time I would ever buy another car from him even if I didn't mean it as he don't know that.

I would have canceled the order. The $500 deposit I put down is refundable.

Luckily I had/have an awesome dealer. They're honest, gave me updates and humored my incessant itch to find out where my car was. Anybody who wants to talk to them can give me a PM for their name. (I've mentioned them before.)

I keep hearing the horror stories people tell of their dealers, and have a few of my own from Tallahassee Ford here in Tallahassee (Don't ever buy a car or take your car for service there.), but I willingly drive 45 minutes and cross over to Georgia to get honest service (both pre-sale and post-sale).

Guys just remember, money talks, especially when it walks.

that flap cant do much, I wouldn't bother with a replacement - I suspect the big plastic engine cover is mostly a safety thing it too probably isn't needed but I would fix it, if someone was hurt cause the big plastic thing with the letters HYBRID on it was left off someone could get sued.

I've read that it reduces aerodynamic drag.

I'd rather not test this scenario out, but I am wondering what the FFH does if the car truly runs out of gas? I'm assuming that it will still "turn on". But upon pressing the accelerator gently, will it move? (assume flat terrain). If it does move, will it continue to move once it reaches the point of acceleration that would normally cause the gas engine to kick in? If the answer to all of these is "yes", then assuming a good charge on the battery, the question would be how many yards (or maybe how many seconds) the car would operate in this condition? Would it be enough, for example, to reach the shoulder of a road, or reach a ramp or turnoff?

 

Thanks,

Tim

Been there done that...

When the computer turns the engine off (it won't let you fully run out of gas), you will coast to a stop. After you power cycle the car you can then coast along for about a mile. You will be able to go about 20 at first, but eventually walking speed will be all you can get. You will, however, constantly have to roll to a stop and power cycle the car. Eventually the car will not let you go any further and you will walk to the gas station.

So there you go.

It's happened two or three times to me. I'm coming up on my 10k mile oil change. I'll be bugging the mechanic at the dealership about that.

You should have tried a speed more like 55-65 to get better fuel efficiency... maybe you could have made it that extra mile or so

Yeah, I slowed down to 70 at times, but the flow of traffic was generally at 80, so I had to go with the flow or risk getting rear ended.

There is no way for the fuel pick up to get out every bit of gas out of the tank, given that they can't make it pointy at the bottom. The fact that the car pulled over 17 gallons out is amazing.

 

So you got the 50 mile warning but were not able to go 50 miles? The warning is usually pretty adaptive, did you get it before getting on the highway?

 

I have driven it down to about 15 miles range left. I'm glad I did not go any lower.

 

Jon

No, I knew from previous fillups when the tank said around 0 miles to go that there was still gas left in the tank when it says 0 to E. I was always able to put about 15 - 15.5 gallons in it at that point, so I figured I could go about 60 miles more, but was planning to stop after 50 miles. I was on I-95 in South Carolina on that stretch where the only gas stations are 10-15 c per gallon more expensive, and based on the info from Travel Link I figured I could make it no problem and save about $2.50.

Was wrong.

Basically, I drove 99 miles after the 50 mile warning.

Out of curiousity, did you happen to notice how many gallons were left in the tank (appx) when the "Miles to E" hit zero? I'm guessing ~2-2.5?

I drove 48 miles at between 70 and 80. I was getting about 35 mpg.

I was actually a bit surprised that I didn't at least make it 50 miles. (Which would have helped since that's how far the gas station was :hysterical2: )

Even though this is not mentioned for the Fusion, many newer cars (sports cars mostly) will void part of the warranty if the computer shows that you have run the car out of gas. I think they won't cover the fuel system if it was run dry.

Yeah, Ford claims to have a 17.5 gallon tank in the car and I was only able to get 17.2 in to the car (including fuel spilled/evaporated when filling on side of road), so I don't think it was actually out of gas, just the computer wouldn't let the engine use any more gas.

The computer will not let you completely discharge the HV battery. Pretty much the only way you can do it is to store the car with a low HV charge for months without disconnecting the 12v battery. The manual is pretty clear though that a completely discharged HV battery is a warranty buster, unless caused by a warranty covered defect.

I ran out of gas last month on the highway. While I walked to the nearest exit, my girlfriend drove the car on electric power for about a mile at maybe 4 mph, which was as fast as it would go. This was done by turning the key off, turning the key on, put in drive then go till the car stopped, and repeating. After about a mile of this, the car refused to go any further.

Did I void the warranty on the battery?

Also, I have done extensive mountain driving. When going down long downhill stretches, the regen would cause the battery charge meter to show a full battery to the point where regen would stop.

Could that, which would be considered normal everyday driving for a lot of people void the battery warranty?

Can I get an OBD II reader and check the codes to see if I've done anything that would void the battery warranty?

Since running out of gas I've run a Vehicle Health Report and it didn't show anything. So you've got me wondering.

After 4 months and 9k miles, I checked my oil last night. It looked new. This after having been driven all the way from Florida to Maine and back, through mountains and coastal plains.

I did the same drive in my old (300k miles) Accord last year and had to add oil every morning :-( I love my new FFH!

Even when stopped and in EV mode the car creeps forward, isn't that a waste of energy (the Prius does this so it seems like a gas only car, same for the FFH) ?

This is purely computer programming. The car is programmed to "creep" like an automatic transmission car would to make the car more "normal."

The motor is only turning when you let off the brake, not pushing against the brakes.

that is the pits - at least its under warranty (but your wasted time ...) - what do you want/need to tow ?

I believe that's a typo, "tow" == "two"

So I put an order in for my '10 FFH. I ordered it in tuxedo black, med light stone leather interior (leather is tan the way I saw it), 502A package w/remote start key for just shy of 30k. I assume from most of what I read that it is a good deal I got?

 

Also, my question is does anyone else have the black with the tan interior and how do they like it / do you have pics. I really like the tan look with the black (my buddies VW) but kinda curios as to why ford chose to use tan and gray trim inside instead of tan w/black trim

 

AND, I asked the dealer if he could take the "front plate bracket" off of the order the day I placed it and he said it wouldn't let him. If I push harder to get it removed is it possible or is it too late? (I doubt it is actually being built already right?)

It will let him take it off, my dealer had mine taken off.

I can see why your having a hard time deciding. It really comes down to how you feel about it.

 

The remote starter is a bonus, even if you never use it yourself, it is trade in value, or resell value.

 

I would be really curious why it is available after being driven 1,700 miles. I assume it was a dealer car for the past month. Or was it a repo, or was it a lemon that they think is fixed now... All questions that without answers would make me wonder. But it doesn't take long to get 1,700 miles on a car. My new FFH had 10 miles on it, three weeks later it has 1,014 miles on it. It didn't take long at all.

 

In the end you are the one paying approximately $30,000 on it. What do you REALLY want?

I just can't see paying retail, or even invoice for a car with that many miles on it.

Order a car, I did, you get exactly what you want and can negotiate a better deal. A little patience goes a loooong way.

I'm pretty sure that's only for non-Nav systems though. The 2010 Nav Job2 software will have the capability though.

Do we know if those of us w/Job1 software in our Nav systems will be able to get a software upgrade?

Can I leave my ZUNE or any USB media player plugged in when the car is off?

Yep, just probably best to make sure you leave it hidden in the center console where the USB plug is.

Sux man.. My car sat for five days just 160 miles from here... (Jacksonville) It happens and it sucks, but it's part of the deal.

Don't worry though.. You're about to be blown away.

I am about to put in my 3rd tank of gas. I'm averaging 38.2 on the computer, and a calculated (gas fill / miles) 37.8. There are a fair number of smaller hills and my drive is about 50% 70MPH Hwy. I'm pretty lead-footed but I have to admit my driving style has toned-down a bit with the gauges staring me in the face all the time - this is a good thing BTW.

 

Jon

Yeah, I just hit 200 miles on this tank of gas and I've just passed the 3/4 tank mark.

It took a very long train ride from Mexico to NM, then up to IL and finally to MIami, FL, traveled on the train for a week!

Yeah, mine did the same thing in getting to Tallahassee.

Im a little dissapointed just completed my first tank of gas and only got 500 miles and averaged 34 mpg's, thats exactly what my Camry Hybrid gets, I thought the Fusion was suppose to do better? Hopefully there is a breaking in time!

It gets better. I live in an area with a bunch of hills which kills my gas mileage, but I've been averaging 39 mpg on this tank. I have about 1300 miles on the car so far.

Man, I'm glad I live in FL and don't have to deal w/that hehe

Before you go, get a good idea what your trade in is worth. Check Kelley Blue Book. Check craigslist to get an idea what others are asking in terms of price for models similar to your car. If you do order, try to sell your trade in your self, you'll have several months to wait, and lots of time to sell it. You can get several thousand more selling it your self.

I actually have a really good story about my trade in value. None of my friends believe me till they see the paperwork.

I ordered a 502A FFH at 30,800 which isn't an amazing deal, so I decided I would push on the trade-in. Blue book on my trade-in was $1,200 in perfect condition being sold by a dealer and $700 for a trade-in. At the age and miles of the car (312k), the condition of the car didn't really effect trade-in blue book value, which is good, since the car had multiple dents. There were no mechanical issues with the car; however.

I went in to get a quote on the car, with a goal of getting about $500 and free window tinting. I was quoted $2,000 and still pressed andn got free window tinting.

I was ecstatic but didn't let on to the dealer at all and when my car finally came in, I noticed on the paper that the trade-in value had actually increased to $2,300. I look at the ridiculously high trade-in as helping sweeten the purchase price by about $1,300, so I figure I now got the car for $29,500 w/a $1k trade-in, which is $350 above invoice.

I won't say the dealer, but if you look around the 'Net for my posts you will know. I was extremely happy with them, and will definitely be back to them if I decide to buy another Ford.

Really, 0% financing on the FFH? Where is here? We don't have that offer here in the Seattle / Tacoma area of Washington state.

Yep, not here in Northern FL either.