fsb99

Then there's my experience. I've never bought an extended warranty and I've driven a total of 9 years out of warranty over our last 5 vehicles. I've spent $0 on repairs. Had I bought extended warranties I would be out $7500. Even if I had to replace a $3K transmission on one vehicle I'm still $4500 ahead.

 

If you can afford to absorb the cost of a large repair you're better off in the long run to self-insure. You might get lucky on one or two vehicles but in the long run you'll save money. Otherwise the companies selling the warranties would be out of business.

I agree with your points...one thing to consider is that the FFH has many fairly new technical advances and some are unproven as far as reliability. The electronics and sensors can cost hundreds of dollars per shot. I think it all depends on how much you pay for the ESP. You can probably find the top end ESP with low deductible under $1500 if you shop around (good deal!). That and the peace of mind would be your gains.

I just now went to the website. Really looks like a very fine product line. Thanks for sharing.

No problem. I get great ideas from this forum so I figure I share something that I'm happy with. By the way, I did not pick the product first. Someone at work referred me to an installer with very good reputation - his shop has a contract with local BMW dealers and I figured that he is very good at what he does (when I was there I saw BMWs, Ford, Lexus being treated). Just happens that he uses this product - lifetime warranty applies. I bargained him down a little bit to what he said as dealer price. If you're in Orange County area and interested, I have his info. I gotta go back this week so that he can fix the white area on the back window black dots (he expected it to happen and will re-treat the areas after 1 week). I remember reading that someone here had the same problem.

Have you had a chance of checking your cell phone signal--not in a five bar area, but marginal signal area?

The ceramic type that I have should not have any effect on Radio Frequency. I have Sprint and they are generally good to excellent in-vehicle coverage in the area that I regularly travel. The closest "marginal area" that I noticed is in my garage with all the garage accesses closed. I get 1 bar and no problems with making a call in those conditions.

your tinting looks great! I do have one question, what is ceramic tinting? And how is it different from film?

Thanks!

Ceramic and metallic tints are both films. Ceramic cost almost twice as much as metallic. Supposedly ceramic has better heat/infrared rejection. I paid extra since I'm planning on keeping the car for a while. Mine happen to be Madico - their website shows some key points of their line of products.

http://www.madico.com/WindowFilms/Auto_Products.asp

I think some of the arguments in the internet revolves around metallic tints interfering with satellite/radio signals. Being an RF engineer, I don't really buy that since the film is so thin, and in most cases, antennas are outside the vehicle.

My co-worker also tinted his car the same day but with the metallic type. We both had medium all around, but it seems that his is a little lighter shade. I'm happy with mine. I'm sure it helps my AC demand, compared to no tint (had the car for over two months and just tinted last week), when I drive home from work in 90+ degree heat.

Here is a picture (have one more but have trouble uploading) of my ceramic medium tint...I spent a couple of hours today washing and waxing (Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detail, Ultimate Quik Wax, and Supreme Shine plus Meguiar's tire and wheel cleaners). Tints definitely made the car cooler if parked short term and has less AC demand during medium to long distance drives (>10miles)

UPDATE: here's a link to more pictures (some better in showing tint)

http://s768.photobucket.com/albums/xx328/2010FFH/

I'm going to get my car ceramic tinted tomorrow. I don't know if I can make a determination on whether this will reduce the heat in the car if it's been parked outside during my work shift...it's supposed to be pretty good in keeping heat (UV) out.

Here is a picture (have one more but have trouble uploading) of my ceramic medium tint...I spent a couple of hours today washing and waxing (Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detail, Ultimate Quik Wax, and Supreme Shine plus Meguiar's tire and wheel cleaners). Tints definitely made the car cooler if parked short term and has less AC demand during medium to long distance drives (>10miles)

You don't have Sync? I could not find an aftermarket mirror with the mic from Gentex.

 

Jon

Is the mic actually in the mirror? I thought it is in the dash (slotted holes behind the right side of the steering wheel, under the SmartGauge)

I noticed when I got my 2004 Acura whichhas a black leather interior, that it really doesn't

get that hot in the summer (alot less than I expected). I think this is because it uses heat reflective

glass. Everybody (including myself) expects that black interiors get *very* hot compared to light

color interiors in the summer (or colder in the winter).

 

Anybody know if this is standard on most cars these days? What about the FFH?

 

Somebody interested in buying my Acura ask me about this and got me thinking about the new car.

I'm going to get my car ceramic tinted tomorrow. I don't know if I can make a determination on whether this will reduce the heat in the car if it's been parked outside during my work shift...it's supposed to be pretty good in keeping heat (UV) out.

This is precisely my trouble. It would be easy (or easier) to wait if I were told "you will wait 6 weeks before you hear anything at all," but being told by a dealer rep. "it is being built now" and then "no, that wasn't correct" the following day when I call back to get a VIN (over three weeks ago) is discouraging, especially when such misinformation is common.

 

I told one poor Customer Care rep. in frustration two weeks ago, "I know I am in a queue somewhere; all I want to know is where I am in the queue." He said he understands, but can only suggest that my dealer has more tools available then they do at the customer care hot line, since tracking builds is not their primary role.

 

The goal is timely, accurate information. Failing grades given at this point.

 

Seems buying a car, and paying MSRP for it (!), is more difficult than it should be, based on the current state of the economy.

I'm guessing this is only an issue for Mercury Milans. I don't remember seeing posts of such run-around beyond the standard 8 weeks for Fusions. I got mine about 8 weeks...VIN after about 4.

I see certain states, including my home state of Vermont, have a longer warranty on the hybrid parts.

Not looking at it now but I believe it was 10/150.

Wonder what happens if I move to a different state - is it based on purchase location or present location?

California is one of those states with 10/150. If you move to a different state, you get the warranty for that state. At least that's what the dealer said.

I feel that the warranties available for a car have alot to do with perceived quality.

If I have to have some key part fixed under warranty and it takes a few hours of

time, but costs me nothing, that is not a big deal to me. If I have to pay out of

pocket for that exotic part and I get nickel and dimed to death, then that relative

level of quality goes way down to me (perception matters).

 

So when you consider the base warranty + extended powertrain warranty + hybrid

warranty of the fusion + relatively cheap extended (ESP) warranty, then my comfort

level of what I am getting, and what it will cost me for 5-6 years, goes way up.

 

I checked with a few places online and I got a Ford ESP warranty quote and spoke

to the guy about a 6yr/60000 PremiumCare (best level) + First Day Rental Reimbursement

for $635 with $50 deductible (I confirmed the price). This makes it a great package

overall and relatively cheap if you ask me. This is very important to me in the big picture.

 

I am not sure what the Toyota warranty is exactly, but all this made me feel more

comfortable about my decision.

Your 6/60 quote seems pretty cheap... I'm in the market for 7/75. Who is the dealer that you talked to?

Hi everybody,

 

New member, just registered and coming up with big dilemma. It is old question Prius of FFH?

Here are the facts I learned from both FFH and Prius forums (condensed version):

 

* Prius 2010 has best MPG (50 or something like that)

* FFH is MPG second, before Camry hybrid

* FFH has coolest cabin

* Prius and Camry have highest reliability marks, specially Prius has highest owner satisfaction best reliability of all cars (see Consumers Magazine) sold in US

* FFH costs more than Prius, similar to Camry but fully loaded is somewhat less (depending what you take)

 

Hanging around http://priuschat.com I learned that it is almost freakland over there. Most of the people posting are so obsessed with their MPG and Priuses that they have transformed into chameleons. One eye looking forward and second on on MFD to watch MPG numbers. Statements like: " ...I ruined my perfect MPG today... had to drive uphill so it dropped to 45 from 55...). I mean it is getting ridiculous. Common sense is thrown out of the window. What I want to say is that you can get true picture and answers from Prius crowd so that info about super reliability, no repairs and so on maybe not 100% true.

 

Going back to FFH I am all for it.

 

* I like the style - it is best looking American made car at this moment, simply gorgeous

* Like performance - true hybrid specs, MPG and all that

* American made - released at perfect time in history, we should all buy (at least) one and help Ford, economy and in turn ourselves

* Cabin - very nice one, much nicer than Prius/Camry

* Gadgets, add-ons - nice selection, would prefer XM over Sirius but that is not a deal breaker

* Colors - white is fine but will be missing tan leather/interior

* Price - have to visit Canadian showroom to see where are we at (it is usually more than in USA)

 

So all conclusions are "go" except last one. Here is my biggest doubt. Toyota cars ARE very good. It's a fact. Where we really stand at for Fusion Hybrid reliability? It is sure too early to say since car is not out long enough, but looking overall to Ford cars reliability? So far doesn't sound encouraging. I mean you pay more for hybrid, save money on gas, buy American but if there is one or more major repairs down the road combined with low resale value that plagues all American made cars that would negate all the money savings, right?

 

I would really appreciate honest opinions on this.

 

Regards,

Zack

FFH is assembled in Hermosillo, Mexico. Parts, if I remember right: about 50% made in Mexico, 25% made in USA/Canada and 25% made in Japan (I think hybrid components and powertrain).

See my story behind getting a flip key for the FFH.

This seems like a good idea. That way if a key is lost we don't need to pay hundreds of dollars to a dealer (note we need two keys to self program another spare therefore losing either keys will pretty much force you to pay for another)

Just got my wonderful FFH, and I'm already aware that the electric motor can "wind down" when stopping with a slight whining sound. That's not a problem, and is expected. However, at speeds of 50-60 mph, sometimes I hear what I think may be an air leak in a window, or just the very tiny high-pitched whine of the battery or electric motor. It's very subtle, and probably approaches the very, very high-frequency pitch of a dog whistle; you know, the kind that only dogs can hear? Does anyone else experience this? I really don't want to go to the dealer with some obsessive request to find an air leak that really isn't there. Could it be the air rushing past the outside rear-view mirror? Of course, when I lower the window, the noise isn't there, but that could be because the noise of the traffic with the window open could be drowning that little noise out. Any thoughts?

If it is not the engine, the dealer should agree to do a test drive with you. It could be a leak in your windshield. They can take care of this by removing and reinstalling the windshield.

I have the 502a package and cannot seem to figure out if I have seated seats. Just wondering. Thanks.

You should have it. The buttons are next to the "up temperature" button on the center controls. There are only two settings indicated by small red LEDs, low and high (and off of course)

My commute is about 3.5 miles, all city.

 

I understand that the car has to warm up first, but why would the mileage differ so much from one day to the next, under the exact same conditions? Same distance, same time of day, the car had been sitting around all day, etc.

With your commute so small, I think you can say that they are margin of error measurements. We know that the MPG per trip, or even the short term average (Miles to E calculation) are estimates. Consider that your 3.5 miles at 35MPG uses 0.1 gallon of fuel, while at 50MPG it uses 0.07 gallons of fuel. The .03 gallons difference or 3.84oz of fuel is less than half a cup...that can be explained by estimation error or Accessory power demand difference, or acceleration, etc. Don't know for sure but it's not high enough to worry about to me, I'd just consider both measurements down in the mud and not accurate. I would measure your actual MPG when you do longer trips ~10 miles or more. Hope that helps.

Picked up my new FFH yesterday. Spent this afternoon doing the normal stuff - papers in glove box, umbrella and flashlight in trunk, remove window sticker, etc. Then started loading CDs into the jukebox. Somehow I had calculated it would hold 13-14 CDs. I loaded 10, then found the button for hard drive statistics. It said that I had used up 10 hours of the 165 hours of tracks possible! WOW! However, I also calculated that to load that many CDs would take about 38 hours actual time. Just an FYI to y'all.

I think the HD is 10GB, which can hold appx 2,500 tracks.

I've got a brand new FFH with about 100 miles on it. So far, I'm only averaging about 33 mpg in mostly city driving.

 

Question: Is the mileage supposed to be this poor when the car is still this new?

 

I've had several trips when I've been able to eek out 45-50 mpg, but the car doesn't seem to behave consistently. Yesterday I got 50 mpg on my trip home from work, but today it was only 32, even though I took the exact same route, and drove in the same style. For some reason, the EV just wasn't kicking in as much. Yesterday I could accelerate up to speed, and as soon as I backed off the accelerator, the EV kicked in. Today, that wasn't happening. Is that normal?

 

Should I wait until I've put some more miles on the car before I start worrying about this, or should I be getting better mileage right off the bat?

Mike, how far is your commute? Short commutes will drive down your MPG since the engine needs to warm up. I get 25-35MPG if driving less than a few miles starting with a cold engine (my driving style is not the most efficient). With an 18 mile commute (one way), 70% highway I can get up to 45MPG because the engine warmup overhead is averaged over the distance. In general you'll not see your car go into EV mode during warmup period (especially if Accessory power demand is higher). If you're in EMPOWER setting, you'll get the data points you need.

I don't own either (yet) but have kicked the tires of both - the FFH is much more car IMO but the Prius has folding mirrors ...

I think the non-folding mirror helps with aerodynamics (mirrors closer to the body). I don't mind it. I've never had an issue with any vehicle's mirrors in over 20 years of driving (knock on wood)

I am being offered 5.5% for 72months from my bank and wondering if anyone knew of another bank that was offering a lower rate (still for 72months though).

I'm not sure for Texas (your profile), but in Southern California, that would be a good rate for that term.

I noted that too. If you look at the size of the staff, it must be a pretty small dealership. That is why I dealt with him. I appreciated actually talking to an actual person. It worked well. They faxed out the paperwork to me right away and then mailed it to me as well. I have not received the package from Ford, but I did call Ford and it does show the warranty in the system.

 

Richard

Thanks Richard for the info. I'll shop around like you suggested. I think another poster suggested myfordwarranty.com and that seem to have good prices also. You also answered my next question - verification that Ford acknowledges your warranty.

You mentioned 8 year/100k...did you mean 7 year/100k?

THANKS!

i did buy an extended warranty, 8 years 100K miles. I generally keep a car that long. I did have an extended warranty on my Acura, and I found that it improved my service experience at the dealer because they simply fixed things I did not know needed fixing. It eliminated the thought process of whether to fix something or wait. I liked that. I do not know if it paid for itself, but I liked the treatment. I paid $1255 for the warranty with a $50 deductible. I bought it from a dealer I found in Indiana (I live in Atlanta). I spoke to the salesperson there and negotiated the price. My own dealer wanted $1700 for the warranty with $100 deductible. Ford wanted to sell it from the GenuineService website for about $1600.00. Anyone looking to buy an ESP should shop it around.

Hi rlawson4...would you mind providing the contact info? I was offered this same ESP for $2450...I declined.

My advice would be to order it with a REFUNDABLE deposit (of course negotiate with a few dealers to get the best price), line up a credit union (like you planned) and if anything changes, cancel the order. If Open Allocation is extended, then you'll be able to cancel, get your money back, and re-order by September 30 and still get the $1700 credit. Cancelling the order may help the dealer since it does not count against their allocation.

I ordered mine (Tri coat white, 502A) $250 over invoice with $500 refundable deposit on 3/30 and received it on 5/22...almost 8 weeks.

I have looked at many of these stickers online for in-stock cars to try and determine if this is the build date, and my best guess is that it is, it's become a bit of a game trying to figure it out. Another poster said it might be the Monday of the week of the build, but I've seen dates on the stickers of 4/23, 4/28, 4/29, 5/6, 5/20, 5/28, 5/29, etc (not all Mondays). This tells me it could be the build date, and I also wondered if the 4-digit code to the left of that was the order in line on that build date, who knows?

I think if you order your FFH, you may get a "build week" date from your dealer. This is most likely the Monday of that week. the "build date," I think, is the date that the car was completed.

Now that you have registered with Motorcraft, you are officially in the Ford Family.

 

No more GM.

 

No more Delco.

 

Enjoy your new life.

GM as in Government Motors?