drolds1

Try this.

Great!  You're welcome.

Try this.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/valve-exhaust-gas-recirculation-6548279-1
 
 

First, Site Feedback and Help is intended for questions about the site itself.  Questions about the Fusion should be posted in the appropriate forum.
 
Next, this:
Are you looking for help or just to tell Ford owners that you wouldn't buy another Ford?  If you're looking for help, you haven't told us what year Fusion you have nor under what conditions the trunk lid opens by itself.  There is an existing discussion about this problem here.
 
If you want to discuss this further, I suggest you make any further posts in that thread.  This thread is now closed.

Hi Graham.  What eGuru stated.  Far too many unknowns.  Your Fusion is not electronically or electrically equipped for LED or HID headlights, so it is not a straight swap.  Plus, I personally would steer clear of any website where they can not even get the English language and/or grammar correct in their advertisements.
Additionally, I have seen those exact same photos, along with a ton of color variations, used on far too many websites selling Fusion headlights, to believe that it is not a Photoshopped image.
 
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

This question has already been asked.
 
Thread closed. Duplicate.

Welcome, theanies.  Good luck with the Fusion.

I am baffled about why one would introduce an additional variable when trying to avoid spending thousands of dollars on a transmission replacement.
The saving by using the non-OEM spec transmission fluid is miniscule in comparison to the dollars being risked. 
 
Just buy the fluid from Ford (or Mazda) and avoid the potential incompatibility issues from mixing fluid types and brands.
If your transmission is acting up, changing the fluid may alleviate the issue but using something different or some "magic" additive definitely won't make anything better - likely worse.

Topic being moved to appropriate forum.  The Lounge is really intended for off-topic discussions, IOW, no technical questions.
 
As bbf2530 asks, do you actually need new brakes and rotors on a 2017?  There's no advantage to drilled rotors on a street-driven car.  It's a "looks" thing for some people.  In fact, they've been known to form cracks around the drilled holes, so you could end up needing another set of rotors in time.  If you actually do need all these components and don't plan to go racing, take bbf2530's advice and buy OEM (Motorcraft) service parts.  I admire your desire to learn, but IMO, a critical, safety-related component, such as brakes, isn't the place to start. You can run into trouble quickly if you haven't done this before, especially with the rear calipers. If you don't want to pay to have this done, is there a friend or relative that can help you?  Most local high schools or community colleges offer adult-education classes in automotive repair for beginners that you might want to look into.

Topic moved to appropriate forum.

Since the DRLs were on and it starts with a jump, I'm inclined to agree with the suggestions about repalcing the battery.

Earlier, you said that when it goes dead, there is no accessory power or anything. Now you've reported that the LCD screens flicker.  When a battery is depleted to the point where the car won't start, rarely is there no flow of electricity at all. If that was happening, the screens would remain dark.  There's usually enough power to turn on the interior lights dimly or honk the horn.  Can you clarify exactly what happens when car won't start.  Is there a 'click' from the starter or nothing at all? 

In my 2017 MKZ, I can listen to the radio when the car isn't running just by pushing the "Power" button for the audio system.  No need to hit the Start button or anything else. This is not mentioned in the OM.  I suspect that the Fusion has a similar feature. 

Hi SwitchbladeSue.  The most likely explanation is that the battery needs to be replaced.
 
You need to let your Ford Dealer properly load test the battery. Older type battery tests are no longer accurate on modern cars.  I forget, is your car still within the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to bumper Warranty?

In my 2017 MKZ, I can listen to the radio when the car isn't running just by pushing the "Power" button for the audio system.  No need to hit the Start button or anything else. This is not mentioned in the OM.  I suspect that the Fusion has a similar feature. 

An illuminated CEL will cause an automatic failure in any state that has emissions testing.  The question is : why is it on in the first place?  It could be a 02 sensor but it could also mean a bad catalytic converter.  Even if the light is off when testing, if NOx emissions are high, it'll still fail the test.
 
You may have warranty coverage on the CC but you need a diagnosis .
 
 

I am glad there is no O'reilly's nearby - twice they tested your alternator and said it was fine and then they sold you one that was defective. Good grief.

No. The 2.0 EB does not have port injection. To date, only some V6es and V8s have the dual setup.

This. 
 
IDK why you'd be thinking of cleaning anything with 6K miles, especially the intake. I certainly wouldn't use Seafoam or anything like that on a EB engine.  Here's why: https://youtu.be/-ynGWxzJHjA
 
If and when the MAF needs cleaning, no, you don't just spray into the air intake. The MAF must be removed before cleaning; either by removing it from the intake tube or taking the part of the intake off that has the MAF attached.  See this video for proper procedure: https://youtu.be/dsqFTIYVbpQ. 

Does "no power when I pushed on the pedal" mean that the engine RPM increased but the car did not move?
 
Who is running this diagnostic? Your mechanic wants to replace the turbo when there is no evidence of it being the cause of your problem.
Just because he said there were no error codes logged doesn't make it true. He could have  noted an error associated with an inexpensive repair and then erased  ii.
The turbo replacement will be highly profitable, so he can easily fix your real problem without ever mentioning/charging for it.
 
Perhaps you have an honest mechanic but not too competent. I would take the vehicle to a Ford dealer.

This. 
 
IDK why you'd be thinking of cleaning anything with 6K miles, especially the intake. I certainly wouldn't use Seafoam or anything like that on a EB engine.  Here's why: https://youtu.be/-ynGWxzJHjA
 
If and when the MAF needs cleaning, no, you don't just spray into the air intake. The MAF must be removed before cleaning; either by removing it from the intake tube or taking the part of the intake off that has the MAF attached.  See this video for proper procedure: https://youtu.be/dsqFTIYVbpQ. 

The EcoBoost is direct injected, so the fuel never runs over the valve.  Therefore running a higher octane fuel won't help clean any carbon off the valves - that's why it's an issue in the first place.

MAFs are always located in the air intake tube, just behind the air filter box.  It's #8 in the illustration below.
 
 

Some of these 2015 Fusion stalling events have been traced to the ubiquitous purge valve/solenoid issue.  Search the forums for more info.