kwicker

thanks, but excuse my ignorance. What are FET and SJB? Thanks.

I swapped the three panel switches (light switch, dimmer, and trunk release) from my daughter's 2010 Fusion and the one in my car still doesn't work and the one in her car still works. So, it appears there is nothing wrong with any of these switches. And the #10 fuse is still good. What is next? This appears to be a common problem with Fusion owners. There must be a confirmed fix by now.

Same problem here, over and over. All but one on the front wheels; the drive and turning wheels. My Ford shop changed all 10 front studs on the dealer's dime after we paid for others. Then, after we bent a rim (not at all sure how that happened), they installed a new right front 17" steel wheel. When we got home, I took the wheel off to see what the difference was between the 2010 wheels and the new 2017 wheel. The new wheel was stamped 12/2016 manufactured date. I did not notice, or measure the stud holes in the wheels. I was particularly interested in the size and overlap of the hub hole in the center. The old wheels have almost zero overlap between the hub and and wheel center. The new wheel has about 1/8" overlap. When reinstalling the RF wheel, another stud broke before I got to 100 ft-lb on a $400, calibrated torque wrench. I took the car back to the dealer and they replaced all five studs on that wheel with Dorman 468 studs and new Ford lug nuts. Meanwhile, after speaking to Dorman, I had ordered Dorman 468 studs and replacement lug nuts. Since then, I have replaced all five of the LF wheel fasteners with the Dorman parts. Since that was just yesterday, I have nothing to report yet. I "blued" the wheel to hub fit on old wheels and the new wheel. All look similar. I checked the hubs for flatness. They are all flat. My wheel numbers are all AE5C-1015-AA. My understanding was that this problem was associated with the part number that ended in "-A", not "-AA". Our daughter also has a 2010 Fusion with 17" wheels. She lives 600 miles away and will be home at the end of May. She has experienced NO problems with her lugs, so I am anxious to compare her wheels, studs, hubs, etc. when she is here. Another thread suggests that the wheel holes on the original wheels are sized too large allowing movement. It also suggests re-tonguing the nuts after a few hundred miles and again after another few hundred miles. As a 35-year graduate Mechanical Engineer, this drives me nuts. No pun intended.

Same problem here, over and over. All but one on the front wheels; the drive and turning wheels. My Ford shop changed all 10 front studs on the dealer's dime after we paid for others. Then, after we bent a rim (not at all sure how that happened), they installed a new right front 17" steel wheel. When we got home, I took the wheel off to see what the difference was between the 2010 wheels and the new 2017 wheel. The new wheel was stamped 12/2016 manufactured date. I did not notice, or measure the stud holes in the wheels. I was particularly interested in the size and overlap of the hub hole in the center. The old wheels have almost zero overlap between the hub and and wheel center. The new wheel has about 1/8" overlap. When reinstalling the RF wheel, another stud broke before I got to 100 ft-lb on a $400, calibrated torque wrench. I took the car back to the dealer and they replaced all five studs on that wheel with Dorman 468 studs and new Ford lug nuts. Meanwhile, after speaking to Dorman, I had ordered Dorman 468 studs and replacement lug nuts. Since then, I have replaced all five of the LF wheel fasteners with the Dorman parts. Since that was just yesterday, I have nothing to report yet. Our daughter also has a 2010 Fusion with 17" wheels. She lives 600 miles away and will be home at the end of May. She has experienced NO problems with her lugs, so I am anxious to compare her wheels, studs, hubs, etc. when she is here. Thanks for the idea of re torquing the nuts. That may have real merit in this case. As a 35-year graduate Mechanical Engineer, this drives me nuts. No pun intended.

EXACT SAME PROBLEM!! Down to the exact fuse that was blown, I changed it, no results, and the fuse is still good. Same illumination lights not working. Shifter, light switch, trunk lid button, instrument dimmer button, steering wheel lights for radio controls and cruise control functions. These lights are NOT functioning. Trouble shooting in a dark garage and driving at night. Hope someone has come up with a solution. kwicker