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I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my car and hopefully get a ballpark idea of how much it will cost to fix it. About a two months ago my check engine light came on. I scanned for the code and it came back P1450 which is for the EVAP. I took it to a local mechanic who claims they fixed it but the light came back on two hours later. When i called to complain they told me to take my car to a ford dealership because they thought they fixed it and if they didn't, they didn't know how. It doesn't seem to really do anything being on except whenever I get gas, my car won't turn on for like 5-10 minutes. But then last night, I was in the middle of driving (about 35-40 mph) and my car just turned off. The dash light came on saying the car wasn't in park (obviously). I pulled over and turned the car all the way off and back on again and it has been fine sense. It scared the crap out of me though. The other issue is that about a month ago, every time I pulled out of a parking space or turn my wheel slowly, this god awful noise came from what sounded like the front passenger side of my car. Intermittent steering squeaking a friend called it. But it suddenly stopped about two weeks ago. The only think I hear now is an occasionally creaking noise when I drive coming from under the car. I had a friend lift the car up and look and he found nothing wrong with it so I think it might be okay but I'm still a little concerned. Any ideas would be helpful! I've only had my car a little over two years and I'm only the second driver. Less than 80,000 miles. I got brand new tires in January, a new wheel barring in September. I don't beat her up, just my daily driver to and from work which is only about 20 miles each way.

I've just noticed that my 2014, 2.5 16v Ford Fusion Check Engine Light starts flashing before the engine has even been turned on. This happens when I don't turn the engine on for more than 10 seconds after turning the key. Once engine is on, the light goes off. Any reason why this could be happening? Any huge concerns about it?

I have a 2011 ford fusion se 2.5l and I was driving to the store and the check engine light came on. I was driving to the auto store to get it checked and it went off. So I kept driving and it came back on so I finally got to the store and it was code p0130 oxygen sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 1 (Confirmed) p0130 "pending" p0130 "permanent" I really don't wanna go buy a sensor for over 150$ and that not fix it. What do you think it is?

Hello, I'm just now joining the Ford/Fusion community for the first time, and have a question regarding my purchase of my first Blue Oval. I really like the car, was pleasantly surprised after the test drive - which lead me to take the plunge - and I hope to keep it for years. My question is in 2 parts: 1) I bought a used 2007 recently (120k mi, manual, 2.3L) with no warrantee, from a large Ford dealer, and 2 days after getting it home, the CEL came on, and now I need a $1,400 cat + downstream o2 sensor (code 0420; CEL came back after being wiped by AdvanceAuto and was verified by my own scan tool). I did not do a PPI with a separate mechanic (I know, I know, caveat emptor, but I thought Ford parts are cheap, if there is something I can't spot myself I'll take the $200 from the PPI and put it towards the repair), However, the stealership in question did check the car out for me before buying it, and gave me paperwork documenting a multi-point inspection, saying that everything was ok. In this paperwork there is a line that says "inspect catalytic converter" with a green check-mark next to it. Do you guys think I have any legal recourse here? Obviously I can't prove they knew about the problem, and it technically could have happened within the 20-50mi of me owning it (although this is a tiny chance). 2) Assuming I'm going to bite the bullet with the dealer fix, they said I could source my own parts to try and keep costs down. Are there any reliable places to get OEM-quality (with a CAT I would only want OEM-quality parts, so I don't go through this again in a couple years) Ford parts? Also, the dealer rep said there are actually 3 cats on the car, wtf? Should I assume they will all be going bad at some point soon, with about $1,000 repair for each one? To their credit, they agreed to "work with me" a bit on the price, however the repair would still run me over $1,000. Thanks, and any advice would be appreciated! P.S. I am using the BAFX ELM 327 OBD2 scan tool, which is AWESOME, and I recommend everyone out there get one. It's $25, syncs wirelessly to any smartphone through a free app, and has access to many CPU functions. I brought up the voltages from the upstream and downstream O2 sensors, and watched them fluctuate while the vehicle was on - which helped me verify that I thought the cat was bad before taking it to the stealership.

Hi all, So I went about replacing the thermostat on a 2006 Ford Fusion I4. It took me awhile but I was able to get everything back together in one piece. I had the Battery disconnected during the repair. However, when I reconnected the battery and turned the car on the Orange Wrench light came on in the dash and the car would not respond to the throttle at all. I couldn't get the engine to rev past 1000 RPM. I attempted the ECU relearn procedure in the manual, by letting it idle, then putting A/C on and then driving it around the cul-de-sac however still nothing out of the throttle, It won't stall the engine but it won't rev past 1000 RPM. My hope is that some one on the thread could suggest some common things I might have accidently knocked off or disconnected in my attempt at getting the thermostat repaired. I haven't been able to get the new Error Codes via OBD II but if I can't get this figured out I'll be doing that on Tuesday. I would just note I'm assuming that there was either some connector or some process I didn't follow, or some extra secret step I need to do that I'm not aware of after replacing the Thermostat. I only disconnected one electrical cable during the repair, and I did double check that it was properly plugged back in. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, please note the wrench was not on prior to the repair work. Thanks!