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I had this problem with my 2017 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium which I bought new. I also bought an extended warranty. I asked Ford to fix it but Ford declined a the grounds that it was a defect in the “ dash pad” which was not covered. I took Ford to arbitration and the arbitrator ruled in my favor. I argued it was a safety matter because the defroster was not working properly and I was concerned that the air bag would not deploy properly. During testimony the Ford engineer admitted that the air bag might not deploy properly and that the defroster would not work properly.

Just for future reference for other who might experience a similar issue, I may have found the solution I wanted to post on the forum. Last week I had two more instances of issues. First, where I forget to disable the start/stop function with the button, and it stalled at a stoplight while heading to work. The car refused to start and I was stuck at the light for about 2 hours waiting for a tow. The dash screens would light up but none of my outside lights worked. For the heck of it, before the tow arrived, I disconnected and reconnected the terminals and, low and behold, the car was working fine again. The second instance happened when I parked my car and later it simply wouldn't start (appeared unrelated to stop/start). Once again, I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it was starting fine. Strange as it sounds, my Cobra radar detector has a battery check function whenever the car is started and it told me last week the battery was bad. Exploring this potential cause, I discovered that the prior owner installed a standard, non-AGM battery in the car. According the owner's manual, stop/start cars specify a AGM-type battery. I installed an AGM replacement and haven't had any problems (at least so far). Admittedly, I'm a bit nervous about keeping the stop/start function on so I've been trying to remember to keep it off but check it's functionality every time I drive the car when parking the car to see if works. So far, about 20-30 tests without issue. Just to try to increase my confidence in the fix, when I took the old battery to the auto parts store to recycle it, I asked them to use their battery check equipment to verify the battery was bad. When they checked it, it showed as 'passing'. This didn't help me feel better but, like I stated, the car appears to be running fine now that an AGM-type battery is installed. Maybe the old battery was just starting to fail (?). I hope this information helps someone else out in the future.

Filed a lost parcel claim on Saturday. They found it Monday. Wasn't an issue until USPS was about to pay out some money. Installed the new cluster. Fired up the first time. Haven't had a problem since. Will let her run it a few days, and if the trend continues, will get it all pretty again and call it good. Automotive Circuit Solutions of Marshfield MO is the company who did the work for us. Definitely worth a shot if smacking the dash has become part of your car starting on a Ford Fusion!

When posting a question like this, it helps if you supply some details about your car. For instance, which engine do you have? This is an Internet guess but, due to defective engine blocks, Ford's I-4 EB engines have been known to develop coolant intrusion into cylinders 2&3, which gets burnt. There would be no obvious leaks in such a case, but a professional diagnosis is in order here. https://youtu.be/_8nQ1NZW_GI?feature=shared

In the past, these issues were mostly caused by the 12 volt battery needing to be replaced. Your vehicle is around 5 yo so it sounds like it should be replaced. That's the easiest and most economical option.

My files are for the small screen version. I don’t think it’s a good idea to try them on the large screen/Nav version.

Won't work, wiring/pcm will be different amongst other things. I don't think I would repair a car with that engine, they are terrible and unreliable for sure.

This is late for the original poster, but I just had the same problem and found a Grainger part that works as a replacement. Grainger part number is 5ENW3 and vendor part number is PR-4PK. Worked perfectly for me, just had to cut off the little clocking tab on the console where the latch clips into. Hope this helps other folks hlwho don't want to spend $500 to replace a $2 part... Eric