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An EVAP code is unrelated to this issue. The Torque app doesn't have the capability to read HVAC codes.

I would not start fixing anything until you pull that fender, hood and bumper cover off. You need to look for hidden damage. Although a deer usually is not a big enough animal to total a car, it all depends on how hard it hit.

Temporarily plumb in a mechanical gauge and see what the actual oil pressure is. If you're lucky it's just the sensor, but you won't know the state of the motor without testing first.

We've deleted all of the spam (or are still rooting some out) from the site. We've also implemented preventative measures to stop it from hitting the site. Robert

I'm glad to hear that. As I noted earlier, the 2.5 is a pretty durable engine. There are any number of reasons for a bad compression reading in one cylinder. As you've illustrated, not all are catastrophic failures, and you did the right thing by asking them to show you exactly what the problem was.?

A 20i4 Fusion S should have the 2.5L engine. These are workhorses and are pretty durable engines. We haven't seen many "catastrophic" failures here with that engine, as seen more frequently with the EB engines. Could you confirm that it's the 2.5 and how many miles are on it? I agree WRT to exploring other options if it does indeed need a new engine, so long as the rest of the car is in good condition.

Might be time for a new 12V battery. If you still have the original battery in there, you're well overdue. My wife's Pacifica was doing the same thing, remote start would try and fail, even though starting it normally would work fine. Put a new battery in there and now it works every time.

The switch is actually part of the latch assembly, so you have to replace the entire assembly. Check to see if your car was covered on the latch recall, if it's still open on the recall list it will save you from paying for a new one.

I had this problem with my 2017 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium which I bought new. I also bought an extended warranty. I asked Ford to fix it but Ford declined a the grounds that it was a defect in the “ dash pad” which was not covered. I took Ford to arbitration and the arbitrator ruled in my favor. I argued it was a safety matter because the defroster was not working properly and I was concerned that the air bag would not deploy properly. During testimony the Ford engineer admitted that the air bag might not deploy properly and that the defroster would not work properly.

Just for future reference for other who might experience a similar issue, I may have found the solution I wanted to post on the forum. Last week I had two more instances of issues. First, where I forget to disable the start/stop function with the button, and it stalled at a stoplight while heading to work. The car refused to start and I was stuck at the light for about 2 hours waiting for a tow. The dash screens would light up but none of my outside lights worked. For the heck of it, before the tow arrived, I disconnected and reconnected the terminals and, low and behold, the car was working fine again. The second instance happened when I parked my car and later it simply wouldn't start (appeared unrelated to stop/start). Once again, I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it was starting fine. Strange as it sounds, my Cobra radar detector has a battery check function whenever the car is started and it told me last week the battery was bad. Exploring this potential cause, I discovered that the prior owner installed a standard, non-AGM battery in the car. According the owner's manual, stop/start cars specify a AGM-type battery. I installed an AGM replacement and haven't had any problems (at least so far). Admittedly, I'm a bit nervous about keeping the stop/start function on so I've been trying to remember to keep it off but check it's functionality every time I drive the car when parking the car to see if works. So far, about 20-30 tests without issue. Just to try to increase my confidence in the fix, when I took the old battery to the auto parts store to recycle it, I asked them to use their battery check equipment to verify the battery was bad. When they checked it, it showed as 'passing'. This didn't help me feel better but, like I stated, the car appears to be running fine now that an AGM-type battery is installed. Maybe the old battery was just starting to fail (?). I hope this information helps someone else out in the future.

My files are for the small screen version. I don’t think it’s a good idea to try them on the large screen/Nav version.

So you're getting pissed off at the Hybrid function, not working correctly anymore as it once used to, or very rare instances of it working, but not the way you've been used to anymore. It basically makes hypermiling near impossible. That is because Ford has programmed into the car's hybrid system, a high voltage battery age date which makes you believe you have to service or change out the HVB battery pack. This is most likely a precaution from the company itself to limit the batteries usefulness at it approaches the end of its life as the battery capacity has dropped from the years gone by. I believe this is to relieve stress from the ageing HVB which in turn will use your Internal Combustion Engine a lot more often, which defeats the purpose of word Hybrid. From what I have seen in the Forscan program, it looks like the 15-years is the max date and the end mark for the battery in the hybrid system. Reaching this point is anyone's guess. It could have a message popping up on the dash saying something like "replace HVB battery now" or the HVB system ceases to function, and you just have a regular gasoline car. So here is what I did to fix (or temporarily for now?) to restore the Hybrid EV function as you once remembered it. (This method should work from 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid and should work on most likely 2010-2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid, & 2010-2012 Mercury Milan Hyrbid as well (According to the Ford OASIS from Oct 3, 2019 these are the years affected). I highly doubt this fix will work on the 2013+ because the chassis has gone through a major change, the computing system of the vehicle is not the same and may behave differently with the vehicle and other additional features are added to it not found in 2012 and below. They may not even exhibit the problem (Unless Ford really did screw everyone over by limiting the HVB's on all their hybrids ever produced. Who knows? I guess time will tell. You will find out around in 8 or 9 years I guess) You will need a few things to get started (or what I have used): Step 1 - Gather the tools for the job - A Windows laptop - ODB II (ELM327 HS-CAN / MS-CAN) device. -ForScan software The ODB II device I had on hand, which is a few years old, but it worked for me, is the brand/model BBFLY BF32302, you can buy this on Amazon for around $23 range (I'm sure you can use any other brand you choose and possibly cheaper, they have Bluetooth & wifi models. Or you might already have an ODB II device) https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BF32302-modified-Windows-ELMconfig-Forscan/dp/B01N9R9QS2 USB model (I used) If the other link sells out, this is also another good one https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Programming/dp/B07S7W14X9?ref_=ast_sto_dp Wifi model $29 https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BB77105-ELM327-Modified-FORScan-Windows/dp/B076VPXPK5 ***NOTE*** These are not affiliate links. I get nothing from it when the product is bought. These are just merely the products that I know I have no issues with it when using it. Step 2 - Drivers & Software Once you have your OBD II device, you will need to install drivers with the device to the laptop for it to work (instructions should be included inside the box on how to do it from the manufacturer of the device), it might be plug and play and the drivers might install on its own. Next, you need the FORScan software: https://forscan.org/download.html I downloaded/used the FORScan version 2.3.22 beta for Windows. Next, you need to activate the software with an "extended" license as it comes in "standard" license by default. Why do you need to activate the software to "extended" you ask?: What is Extended License, why and when do I need it? Extended License provides access to Configuration and Programming functions of FORScan, and also few Service functions (such as PATS programming). Base (Standard) FORScan functionality such as (connection, retrieving vehicle information, reading parameters, read and reset diagnostic trouble codes, run tests and service functions etc) does NOT require an Extended License. There is a free 2 month Extended License that can be issued for anyone who has an account on our FORScan forum. Also, there are paid long-term and lifelong licenses. the "Configuration and Programming" functions are making changes and edits to the car's computer data. Which includes programming keys, etc., or in this case you want to change the battery age. It falls within this category, which the Extended license is required. Create a free member account on their forum to get the activation file key. there is a 2 free month trial. (even if it expires, you can just make another again to re-activate) Here is a 1-minute youtube video of how to activate the software with ease: STEP 3 - Programming in your vehicle. Under your steering wheel, is a small square cover. Open the cover. It will reveal the port for the ODB. Plug in the ODB II device into it. Next, insert your car keys, turn the key to the "ON" position (Don't start). (Sample picture of key positions) Open the FORScan program. Connect the device, a button below (two plugs joining icon). Once you connect, you will be instructed to create a profile, just follow the onscreen steps. If you get a message about the MS-CAN setting on the ODB II device, it is the toggle switch on my ODB device, I had it switched toggled towards the wire of the ODB II device. Next, on the left-hand side of the program with the icons, go to the one with the CPU processor looking icon (5th one down), click on it, and you will be brought to this screen. on the Configuration and Programming tab, highlight the "BECM Module Configuration" and go hover your mouse pointer over to the "blue play button" icon below and press it. Next is this section you will see. Highlight the "Config battery age" (double click on it, can't remember this is just from my memory) and press the play button icon again, (the screen is cut off on the right side of the picture, but for me, it said (The values might differ for some people or may say the same for you, but I'm guessing this is the info it shows after 9+ years): Name Value Config battery age error Config battery end life counter Module configuration Config charge since rebalance error config hybrid battery state of charge error config hybrid battery state of charge 2 error Just choose the "config battery age" (I didn't change the other settings on that list, as I don't know what to do that might screw it up, so I didn't play around with it. You can go into it and see it, but I didn't save any of those changes. I guess in time I will find out more info or learn when I have time to tinker some more. I would love to get rid of all the error values) Next, you will see this screen, it looks like I was about to hit the 10-year mark (yours might be lower or higher than this number, this is just a running counter in their system to keep track of the approaching total of years for the HVB. Select the "2400 - 1" and hit the "blue checkmark box" (although technically the 0 - 0 year would work, but the auto techs at the dealers that have been fixing it, have been choosing year 1. So I will just choose that) Next, it will take you back to the list of 5 config battery options, hit the "write" button below, and then this window will come up. hit the blue checkmark button to confirm Done! here is the last window popup you will see confirming the change. Click on the top icon on the left-hand side (car with the letter i in a bubble icon), Then press on the un-connect icon below (circled in red), to un-connect the vehicle from the program Close the program, and then unplug the ODBII device. Cycle the ignition OFF and then back on as per the programming message you've just seen. The results of the EV activating will be immediately noticed when you start to drive your car (within a minute or so. It may take a few minutes if it's too cold). I hope this will help your problem fix your issue as it did for me, This forum post was done from my memory, as I didn't really take any notes down, so I hope what I've posted is pretty accurate. Please don't screw around with other settings. if you want to change other settings for the vehicle, I suggest you search or ask questions on the Forscan forums. there are guides on how to use the program to its full potential. There is a ton of info on there to do custom stuff (lights, upgrade sync, key programming if you lost original fob, etc), but that will be for another time for me. If you are happy and this solved your issue, and you happen to feel generous want to donate $ to me, I will happily accept lol (have PayPal). But it's your choice, not forcing anyone to give anything to me. I just want to spread the knowledge and help others out having this problem develop late in the car's ownership. (I'm sure as time goes by, some dealers that do not know of this fix, will catch wind of this thread and offer this solution to their customers and make money for the dealer, hahaha. If anyone that owns this 2010, 2011, 2012? Ford Fusion Hybrid and lives in the Greater Toronto Area, and cannot find a dealer to do this, I can probably perform this for you if you'd like.

Power wash the underside as best as possible, get a good rust encapsulating paint and go nuts. Paint the entire underbody if you can, it won't stop the rust completely, but it would slow it down a lot.

It sucks spending so much, but it is good to have a guaranteed fix too. Glad you got it!

The kind of repair that makes me proud to know there are other people out there that know how things work and /or how to troubleshoot, and don't just take it to a dealer and pay $1000 for what could have been an easy repair. Example, my wife took her '02 Explorer in because 4WD wasn't engaging.. they told her it needed an $800 module + labor.. I had her bring it home so I could look at it after work... I looked at the wiring diagram, crawled underneath \found the ground wire that was broke off of the transfer case. Installed a NEW more robust grounding strap.. worked great for years afterwards, even after we gave it to her brother.. eventually he abused it enough to trash the transmission.

Adding to this, have you ever changed the fluid in the PTU and/or rear differential? On thing confusing me: you state that is present on acceleration but occurs either in D or N. How can you accelerate in Neutral?

My best internet guess is the read differential is going out of it. If that's not it, then the "transfer case" is likely 2nd. 3rd would be the actual transmission itself.

Won't be a fuse, especially if things "work". Sounds like the module cannot relearn or some other issue like that. Get someone with a good scan tool to get in there, there should be some codes (which will not set a CEL).

Pretty good hit for a Deer right at the Fuse box and Battery, A really low Battery charge or a shorted cell will bring up the same messages...........

The issue with my wifes care ended up being the front driver side ABS wheel speed sensor. The part is cheap, and very easy to install. BTW the dealership will charge you 3x what you can get this part for at autozone/amazon/etc.

Pulled and checked the tappet and no wear, looked brand new still. It looks like its the fuel line running from the tank under the car is rattling really badly. When i hold onto it with the engine going the rattle goes away. I am going to work to get some cushion, or tie strap it to something to see if that takes care of it.

Just wanted to do a quick DIY repair thread on the P1A16 error code (usually accompanied by a bunch of other codes that lock out the battery). So it turns out that the coolant pump for the inverter/transaxle was weak and or failing. In my case it was moving water just not well and it had burnt up my inverters (Car is located in a hot climate). Per the PC/ED supplemental manual it states you will need to replace the whole transaxle on the car. I ended up buying a used transaxle (the shop accidentally split the unit in my case). They also dropped the gear portion so I ended up getting the inverter portion that I needed (at an extreme discount). In most cases you will need to buy the whole transaxle since it is a "sealed combo unit". If a shop is not that bright and split it they are obligated to sell you the whole thing since it is just one part number (or ask for a discount). This is not a Prius or newer gen Fusion/Lincoln where its a separate unit. I have linked screenshots from the online manual offered by https://www.nicksmustangranch.com/. The P1A16 code specifically means the inverter is toast. If you like to wrench in general on your car Nick has the most comprehensive interactive online Ford Manuals (just requires a donation for access). He does it as a hobby and I have found the service manuals and diagnostics to be extremely helpful. ***WARNING SIDE NOTE****** Before taking on a project like this realize this is a high voltage system and it can kill you. Follow all proper procedures and guidelines to stay safe and you will be okay. I pulled the high voltage disconnect for the car. To double check I used a voltmeter before proceeding to verify the voltage was not present. You can also get high voltage gloves. I also disconnected the 12v battery as well. With that disclaimer out of the way regarding safety. Here are some general photos with lots of steps not shown. Quick Rundown: -Remove cover -Disconnect all wire harnesses and pull aside (be sure not to crimp or damage) -Remove circuit board and its attached bracket -Remove all bolts holding on the inverters (do no let them fall into the car when reinstalling) -(Optional) Ohm the 3 phase motors while you have access to make sure the transaxle is good -Remove the Inverters keeping track of where the units go (Doner to Car) -(Optional) Get some computer thermal compound and put it on the bare spots (I did not remove the paste). Or buy industrial thermal compound (Probably overkill). -Reverse installation of the inverters -****KEY POINT*** Install the cars existing circuit board or the car will NOT start and be immobilized -REPLACE THE COOLANT PUMP FOR THE TRANSAXLE Some Photos of the process: Here is the inverter in the car with the cover still on. I had started to remove the reservoir at this point. I have removed the cover on the inverter. The green circuit board needs to go back into the car and not the doner board. So set it aside and make sure it does not get damaged. Super important or your hosed. As you can see I moved the attached wires to the side to not get damaged. I then removed the bracket that held on the circuit board. I removed all the hex head bolts on the inverters and unplugged the wires shown. This is the doner car's inverters. It looked like the first picture and had the board and all the other parts. I removed everything but left in the inverters until I was ready. This is crucial since you do not want debris between the thermal paste and the heatsink in the car. Just a side note and tip leave all the metal plates on the old inverters and new ones. You will have to loosen them but do not remove to just make life easier. Here is a closeup of the used inverters. You can see how I left the tabs on. You will also need to replace the water pump for the inverter/transaxle. If you go on eBay you can buy a genuine Engine Auxiliary Water Pump Bosch 0392023014. It is the exact same pump and you can install it in the stock Ford bracket. This is much cheaper than the $$$$$$ Bosh part with the Ford part sticker on it (I just transferred the sticker over). This is not for the faint of heart but if one has some mechanical knowledge it is doable. Just have to be safe and take your time. Also, change the transaxle fluid to prolong the life of the transmission.

Hi cdygalloway. Yes, as WKelley stated, it can be considered "normal". In addition, you may want to check your power steering fluid for correct level, if you have not already done so. And if it has never been flushed/changed, you may also want to have that work performed. Keep us updated and good luck.

Yes, that is normal as the engine is speeding up the power steering pump as it would struggle at idle speed to turn the wheels while stopped.

They've had their share of recalls due to engine failures. Again, these are considered safety issues, which the coolant intrusion in Fords is not.

Have you checked the actual speed input sensor for functionality? That would be my main focus. The P062A is unrelated to the transmission but could be causing driveability issues as the fuel pump module, not the pump, may be failing causing problems with engine performance. The fuel pump module is a fancy relay located in the trunk I believe but don't quote me on that.

Hi Burak Ozcan and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. Unfortunately, this may not be the best forum to obtain information about your 2006 1.4 Diesel Ford Fusion. Other than name, your Fusion is a completely different vehicle than the U.S./North American Fusion this forum is dedicated to. Yours is a compact 4 door hatchback, while ours is mid-size 4 door sedan. Essentially the same vehicle as the Ford Mondeo, which may also be available where you are probably located. Our U.S. Fusion is not even available with a diesel engine. If another member here can help, I am sure they will jump in to do so. I just did not want you to think your post was being ignored. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Thank you for the reply. I was only looking for winter tires, I was not getting enough confidence to go ahead for the purchase. So, decided to buy new one. Thanks for taking time to reply.

Hello, everyone. I unfortunately come to this forum with a small problem. Today my Fusion radio locked up and now it's asking me for an unlock code. I called the dealership and was asked for 190 RON (around 40$) for the unlock. ? Has anyone else done it? What do you suggest me to do? I honestly don't want to pay 40$ to the dealership for the unlock. Thanks in advance for your answers.

2.5l are known to have valve problems, after high mileage and neglect. I'm on my third vehicle with that motor and haven't had any problems, though i tend to sell at 85k-100k when the rust is starting.

Hi Millbridge. I would definitely get a "second opinion" on a major cost decision such as that. As to if/how it can be repaired without an engine replacement? It is virtually impossible to say without more information. A "catastrophic engine failure" can have various underlying causes and results. For example, Is it a cracked block? Damage due to a failed piston? Failure due to damage from broken valves...etc. etc. etc. By definition, "catastrophic engine failure" usually means engine replacement, since the damage was "catastrophic". So it the Dealer is correct, then yes, it means engine replacement. However, we don't really know what the damage is, so all we can do is blind Internet guess. Again, I would definitely recommend a second opinion from another Ford Dealer or an independent shop you trust. I am sure other members will jump in with more advice and recommendations, so let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Netjel and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. You are correct that it makes no difference, and "Sport" is still the operational selection. However, I would recommend stopping by the Service Department and asking why the seemingly incorrect part was installed. And also ask for the correct one to be installed now. Let us know what they say and good luck.

That's how the plugs look in a Ecoboost 1.5l. Change them. Mine were very similar at 65,000 miles. If it's not burning a lot of oil, like a subaru/dodge/jeep, Don't worry about it.

You cannot simply install a different size engine in any modern car. You would have to change so much it is not financially viable as an option. I look at my relatively simple 2010 2.5L and think how easy it would be to pop on a turbo, but making it work would cost more than buying a much faster car.

Could also be the dreaded coolant intrusion defect. If so, hopefully you have a warranty of some kind.

Hi ankhzy. First...Your 2020 Fusion has a 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty, and any tune or modification you make to your 2020 Fusion can lead to denied Powertrain Warranty claims. So keep that in mind if the warranty is important to you. Next...aftermarket cat-back exhaust systems and so called "CAI's" (cold air intakes) do nothing for power increases in this case. More exhaust and intake noise? Yes. But no additional power. This is because our vehicles already have very good/efficient exhaust and intake systems. The short story: The bottleneck in the exhaust tract are the catalytic converters, and an aftermarket cat-back exhaust does nothing to change that. And in the case of aftermarket CAI's? Our vehicles already have a quality, sealed CAI from the factory, while most aftermarket CAI's use an open air filter box (or a poorly sealed box), which pulls in hot engine compartment air. So while they look pretty, they do not help with power increases. So again, if you want more intake and exhaust noise and the placebo effect, those items are great. But they do not offer anymore power. More power can be obtained with an aftermarket tune (a tuning programmer, not a cheap, worthless "chip"". Just keep in mind a tune may/will endanger any warranty claims under the Powertrain Warranty. And yes, the Dealer/Lincoln most certainly do look for and have the ability to find traces of aftermarket tunes. Keep us updated and good luck.

I would avoid an aftermarket remote start kit at all costs. FInd someone with a good scan tool that can access all the modules. Make sure nothing funky like a door lock module acting up or something like that.

Hi cdygalloway and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. You are getting those warnings because the LED bulbs you installed are not compatible with your vehicle. They are drawing a different current than the correct bulbs. Sometimes this issue can be worked around by installing a capacitor or other electronic/electrical modules. Sometimes not. You may want to contact Sylvania, or do a site search here on the Ford Fusion Forum for the solutions others have tried Let us know how you make out and good luck.

A guess is that it's over heating.... maybe replace the APIM

Well it goes in tomorrow morning. ? thay fix it

See this thread.

While I won't jump into the battery load tester discussion, it's not relevant in this case as bbf is misunderstanding the pop-up message. This is the message that comes up when the vehicle can't detect the key fob after you've driven some where and turn the car off. Imagine the scenario where you're driving your spouse to the airport. You both get in the car together, but in fact you've forgotten your key, but your spouse has theirs. When you get to the airport, spouse hops out, taking the key. You turn off the car to get out and help with the luggage. This pop-up will warn you that you don't have your key and gives you a time window to restart. Otherwise your spouse runs into the airport with your key and you're stuck in the airport drop-off with a vehicle that won't start. It's almost certainly a result of declining battery in the key fob. Could be that the fob battery is right on the edge and after sitting in your pocket while you're driving it warms up enough to where it's not putting out enough signal. Could be the location of the fob inside the vehicle at the time you turn off the car that's causing the variability. Either way, replacing the battery in the fob is the first step to try.

Most Auto Stop/Start vehicles will use an AGM battery. Go with the one that matches what the owner’s manual recommends.

Just replace the battery. 5 years is an extraordinary lifetime for car batteries these days. I'm not sure if start-stop vehicles use a different deep-cycle battery.

Thanks for your feedback! She has full coverage on it so I think we're going to have a bodyshop just take care of it and pay our deductible. And thanks for the invite! She's owned the car for a number of years now and its been dead reliable the whole time, even while the engine is making a sort of knocking sound. It definitely gets worse when the oil is old or when it's cold but it's never skipped a beat. We bought it from an old lady back in 2019 for $8,000 and at that time it only had 19k miles on it. Even some of the buttons felt sticky like they do in a new car. Its been a great car to us and I'm sure she'll have it for many years to come.

Won't work, wiring/pcm will be different amongst other things. I don't think I would repair a car with that engine, they are terrible and unreliable for sure.

It's UFR how no one posts the info on how to fix even after you people fixed yours...wtf is the problem with you people? I don't get it

I have a 2007 Fusion. Interior is nothing but problems. Dash is buckled. Vents popping out everywhere. Doesn't defrost properly because front vent actually is popped up and touching windshield. Lots of problems with the interior.

We repair the dash bulging issue all of the time at our shop. Cost $100 including labor. Remove the glove box, remove the air bag (only a couple nuts hold it in), and pop off electrical connectors. Buy some small Irwin Handi-Clamps (they ratchet down), Permetex The Right Stuff Gasket Maker (typically in the caulk gun type), Heat gun or hair dryer, and a wooden paint stick. Heat dash with heat gun to make pliable. Install gasket maker under dash foam. Put paint stick on front lip. Use Handi-Clamps to hold dash down on paint stick (clamp only to flush, don't need to squeeze them down hard). Wait 5 - 6 hours just to make sure its dry. Reinstall. We have had Fusion's and Milan's that we've done this to over 3 years ago and the Permetex is still holding.

Andy T, I think you missed the point. I have attempted to get it repaired several times by asking someone glue it down or do whatever they thought best. However, every attempt resulted in the body shop/repair shop saying that....you can NOT repair this and that you should NOT attempt to just glue it down and that they would NOT touch it because doing so could/would result in the airbag not deploying correctly creating a safety issue and potentially making them liable. So it's not about it looking bad. Furthermore, if we just buy a new dash the new one will eventually do exactly the same thing because the dash is a defective part and we should not have to completely replace the dash every 4 years because it starts the peal away....that's the point.