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An EVAP code is unrelated to this issue. The Torque app doesn't have the capability to read HVAC codes.

I would not start fixing anything until you pull that fender, hood and bumper cover off. You need to look for hidden damage. Although a deer usually is not a big enough animal to total a car, it all depends on how hard it hit.

Temporarily plumb in a mechanical gauge and see what the actual oil pressure is. If you're lucky it's just the sensor, but you won't know the state of the motor without testing first.

We've deleted all of the spam (or are still rooting some out) from the site. We've also implemented preventative measures to stop it from hitting the site. Robert

I'm glad to hear that. As I noted earlier, the 2.5 is a pretty durable engine. There are any number of reasons for a bad compression reading in one cylinder. As you've illustrated, not all are catastrophic failures, and you did the right thing by asking them to show you exactly what the problem was.?

A 20i4 Fusion S should have the 2.5L engine. These are workhorses and are pretty durable engines. We haven't seen many "catastrophic" failures here with that engine, as seen more frequently with the EB engines. Could you confirm that it's the 2.5 and how many miles are on it? I agree WRT to exploring other options if it does indeed need a new engine, so long as the rest of the car is in good condition.

Might be time for a new 12V battery. If you still have the original battery in there, you're well overdue. My wife's Pacifica was doing the same thing, remote start would try and fail, even though starting it normally would work fine. Put a new battery in there and now it works every time.

The switch is actually part of the latch assembly, so you have to replace the entire assembly. Check to see if your car was covered on the latch recall, if it's still open on the recall list it will save you from paying for a new one.

Very few people work on A/C because of the complexity and the fact that it is not considered a do-it-yourself job in any way. You're supposed to be licensed to even handle this work. That being said, I'm not waving my finger at you. If you have the understanding and can get it working then you're further ahead than most. Most mechanics here (Lindsay, Ontario) will not touch A/C work unless you do it 100% by the book. TL/DR: People almost never fix their own A/c.

I had this problem with my 2017 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium which I bought new. I also bought an extended warranty. I asked Ford to fix it but Ford declined a the grounds that it was a defect in the “ dash pad” which was not covered. I took Ford to arbitration and the arbitrator ruled in my favor. I argued it was a safety matter because the defroster was not working properly and I was concerned that the air bag would not deploy properly. During testimony the Ford engineer admitted that the air bag might not deploy properly and that the defroster would not work properly.

When posting a question like this, it helps if you supply some details about your car. For instance, which engine do you have? This is an Internet guess but, due to defective engine blocks, Ford's I-4 EB engines have been known to develop coolant intrusion into cylinders 2&3, which gets burnt. There would be no obvious leaks in such a case, but a professional diagnosis is in order here. https://youtu.be/_8nQ1NZW_GI?feature=shared

In the past, these issues were mostly caused by the 12 volt battery needing to be replaced. Your vehicle is around 5 yo so it sounds like it should be replaced. That's the easiest and most economical option.

If the battery is original then 4yrs is a bit of a gift in today's world for a battery.

Thanks for the update. I meant to mention the updated driveshaft in my previous post but forgot. At least it wasn't the PTU or rear diff. Just for reference, $1800 CAD converts to $1335 USD as of today. At your mileage, I'd still consider changing the PTU fluid if it's never been done.

I have an 06 ford fusion 2.3L with 240k on it. Bought it at 170k. Ive has the old gal for 5 years and 80k hard miles. Just replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, flywheel, torque strut mount, clutch master, clutch slave cylinder, my rear main seal was absolutely dumping oil. I initially had pressure after buttoning everything up but felt low engagement so i re bled the system and my pedal would stick to the floor. Ended up finding slave was allowing air into the system when i would press in the pedal. Now shes good to go lol also if you have the shared reservoir theres a line from the brake master that goes to the clutch master that can get hard and gunky. But. You have the luxury of having to pull the battery and removing the ecu to access the clutch master if you have the 2.3l 😂 anyway i know it probably doesnt matter to you persay but maybe someone like me looking for help might find this info helpful in getting theirs to start cooperating. Pro tip get a buddy to help you and if you have something to create vacuum will help burp the air out if it wont initially gravity bleed once installed that'll make it a lot less infuriating 🙂 who knows maybe your fusion isn't as rude as mine. Im just gonna keep fixing her until she doesn't have it in her. Im shooting for 500k

I'm sorry it's taken so long for me to update you on my problem with the issue of the upholstery/carpet disintentagrating on the shelf behind the back seat of my 2019 Ford Fusion. I was in contact with an employee at the local Ford Dealership, Wehr Ford and RVs in Mountain Grove MO about this issue, and I kept calling him every week or two to get an update. He kept telling me he hadn't been able to reach anyone, hadn't received an answer, etc. When I called last week, I was informed he had left the Ford dealership, but the person I was talking to said they would reach out to him and get an update. Well I guess the update was that the only progress he made on getting my issue resolved, was finding out that my Extended Warranty covers things like the driveshaft, etc., and doesn't cover the fabric on the back window shelf. So the person I spoke with last week said he would try to help me. He had not been able to get anyone on the phone to help him, so I asked if I should try to call Ford. He said sure, it can't hurt. I was transferred from one dept to another at the number for Ford Pro Team, 800-343-5338, and spending most of the time on the phone on hold, I was disconnected after 47 minutes. They all seemed sympathetic and concerned about getting me to the right person. When I was disconnected I called back. The person who answered couldn't find my case number, didn't know who I talked to, but finally transferred me to "Caseholder Yolanda." She ws short and impatient with me, said she couldn't help me, that the dealer needs to reach out to the "field service engineers." I finally gave up and called the mechanic at the Ford dealership who "inherited" this problem from the former employee. I am now waiting on a callback from him. The thing is, when I have an issue I don't get discouraged and give up; I get stubborn. I'll keep you informed on my progress, in getting this matter resolved. If ANYONE has any info or helpful advice that might resolve my problem I would sure appreciate it.

My replacement is now 3 years old and it's fine. Just a bad batch and poor quality control. Al

we have a 2010 FFH with 135,000 miles on it now, got it used for $6M in 2017 with around 85M miles and have only done tires, brakes front and back (although the fronts did not need to be replaced) and the B1S1 O2 sensor and throttle body. Oil changes around every 3500-4000 miles with full synthetic, I have run flats on it since this is pretty rural here and I don't want the Mrs. to worry about tires. It is the best running, most reliable vehicle i have owned in 60 years of car ownership, and still gets 36mph or better consistently even though it is now a 14 year old car. I just did a rebalance (autel md808) on the HV battery yesterday, and all 28 groups are within .04 volts of each other when completed, showing again how good these battery packs are even after years of extreme heat and cold. I know it won't last forever, but these are really great cars imo.

Hi Reggieros. As drolds1 mentioned, you are dragging up old threads. And now you are quoting and thanking yourself.

It would be cheaper to call a locksmith/tow truck for a lockout call than breaking glass.

If the odometer went to ---- then it sure sounds like a communication issue. You need to get the codes read, there are likely some communication codes in there.

I know this thread is dead, but wanted to give my experience with the viscous coupler on my 2015 ford fusion 2.0 AWD with 140,000 miles. I scoured the internet on this topic and came up short except for this thread. Hopefully this post will help someone in the future. One day I was turning out of the grocery store and I thought someone had hit me. I pulled over to check the car and everything seemed fine. I continued on my journey home, but every time I turned at low speed the back end would shudder or the rear tires would chirp. I unplugged the sensor and everything seemed to work fine, minus the AWD warning light. I came across this thread and saw the bulletin from Ford on the viscous coupler. The only thing was when I looked part number CV6Z-4A232-A in google the ford fusion was not in the list of vehicles. I decide to continue on with the teardown, because from what I saw on the internet looked a lot like the rear end on my car. The process took me about 5 days to take the part out due to not having much guidance and working on the car at night after work. Here are the steps I took to remove the viscous coupler in my car. 1. There are 6 torx 45 bolts that you need to remove from the rear driveshaft. I considered these bolts to be a one time use, because half of them were on the verge of stripping. 2.There are 4 torx 40 bolts on the viscous coupler housing you will need to remove 3. You will need to remove the two 13mm bolts that hold the center drive shaft bearing. This will allow you to move the drive shaft away from the viscous coupler housing. 4. There will be plate that holds the grease for the rear driveshaft connection in the coupler housing. This part will need to be removed with some plyers to be able to access the last bolt holding the housing on. 5. The bolt behind the plate is also a 13mm. Once the bolt is removed, then you will have to break the housing free, because the coupler housing is attached to the differential with grey gasket maker. Once you remove the housing, you will have access to the viscous coupler. 6. Remove the viscous coupler from the vehicle. I had to use a little bit of force for this step. 7. There are 4 torx 50 bolts that will need to be removed to separate the front of the viscous coupler and the spindle on the front of the viscous coupler. 8. You should now have access to the sensor of the viscous coupler. There is a metal ring in the center that you will need to remove, so you can remove the sensor. 9.Once the sensor is removed, there are 3 torx 25 bolts you need to remove. Once these bolts are remove the final piece should slide out. 10. Take a deep breath, because the viscous coupler is now out of your vehicle. 11. Order the part and install everything in the reverse order. When I removed the coupler I notice some of the splines had worn down just enough to cause some slippage. I paid $462.00 for the viscous coupler part number CV6Z-4A232-A and 6 driveshaft bolts $1.62 a piece part number 5F9Z-4682-AA. The drive shaft bolts come in pairs of two, so I really only bought 3 pairs. I hope this post provides some guidance to a DIY like myself.

Thanks, bbf2530!! I hope yours was also GREAT, SAFE & ENJOYABLE as well! It appears Winter is soon to arrive now here in Mid-Michigan. I'll be curious how well this 1.5L 2020 Fusion does in snow !! FuzzyOne

The mods have no capacity to stop it. The site runner has to do something. All we can do is flag the spammers, which hides the spam and blocks the source. . But as fast as we do that, they morph and flood us with more. You haven't even seen how much we've gotten, as I usually hide it in the wee hours when I'm the only one awake. We had the same problem on the MKZ Forum. It's been fixed, but not by the Moderators.

Once again, I want to thank everyone for their help. Here's an update on my story... It turns out that the "zero compression" diagnosis was a bad reading. After asking the dealership to show me exactly what was wrong, the technician suggested that he could blast air through some part of the engine (I'm not sure how this was done exactly). Anyway, after this was done, the engine started up smooth immediately and the zero compression reading for cylinder 2 was gone. Their theory was that there was carbon build up on one of the injectors, keeping it open and causing it to misfire, leading to a misreading on their computer. I'm glad I sought some advice here and asked for more information! Otherwise, this bad reading could have led to an engine replacement and a big hole in my wallet!! Thanks, everyone!!

HOW WERE YOU ABLE TO DISPLAY THE ERROR CODES ON THE VEHICLE'S SCREEN (DASHBOARD)? What's the procedure?

$10K for an engine swap, even with a new engine, is too much. I'd definitely would get a second opinion and hopefully a better price. Dealerships will only install new engines, you could try your luck with a used engine and an independent shop. Knowing which engine you have would also help.

If you're upside down in a loan this is a bad time in history to try and flip it to another car. Banks are very skittish right now, you'll likely end up with a much higher interest rate too. Things to consider. As for the car, you need someone to have a scan tool that can read/show live date and see what is going on. Fuel pressure is critical in a direct injection engine. Could even be as simply as a new coil and some plugs. Try swapping #3 coil to another cylinder and see if the misfire follows it. Don't throw a whole bunch of parts at it in desperation. Try to find a good independent shop that has the ability to do advanced troubleshooting.

You need to get it scanned for codes, that will help a lot.

I'd think it would be much more than just adding sensors. Is there wiring? Will the safety/infotainment/whatever have the software to support it?

If you can wiggle a wiring harness and it causes things to work then you need to open that harness until you find the bad wire. It's not a fun job and most mechanics won't do it, but straight replacing the harness is also a bit much considering it is likely that the bulk of the harness is fine. Anyone that does wiring type work would do it but the cost won't be cheap.

In my 20 years being a mechanic every time I replace the blower motor I'd also change the resistor and the pigtail. If any one of those 3 parts failed I always changed the other 2. If you do not change all 3, the problems will continue. I also would pay the price premium for original Ford parts, aftermarket parts have gone into the toilet as far as quality.

What version Sync3 are you on? There are quite a few reports out there for this issue on Sync3 v3.4.22251 Some have fixed it by doing multiple consecutive Master Resets. Others have updated to a newer version using Cyan Labs (Ford unsupported) as Ford has not officially released anything newer than 3.4.22251.

Just wanted to share this in case it might help someone. My 2010 SEL started throwing a P0451 code a while back. Resetting would fix things for a couple days but it would always come back, sometimes with a P1450 code. Changed the Canister Vent Valve... nothing. Changed the Purge Solenoid... nothing. Finally gave in and swapped out the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Assembly... bingo! The valve and the solenoid were $60 each from Napa so I had taken the chance before spending $250 at the dealer on a new FTPS. Hey, I had to try, right? Anyway, it's been a month and the car is still working fine (knock on wood) and I have a few spare parts on my garage shelf. All good.

The 1.5/2.0L Ecoboost engines were crap. In general, cars built from 2013+ seem to really suffer from quality control problems. Too many modules, engines designed very poorly, the list goes on. I love my 2010 base SE with the 6spd manual. There is very little to fail on my car, does not have 20+ modules like the 2013+ do. New cars are terrible and very overpriced.

If it clicks that’s a dead battery. It might be the connection for the battery monitoring system.

Honestly not worried about it

Are you doing the relearn using the rear door switch or the driver's door switch? The relearn has to be done on the affected door switch, not the drivers switch. A bad driver's door switch pack can also cause the problem.

Thank you very much! I've had the car for a few years, so I'll look into replacing it. Thanks again!

The 36 month factory warranty starts from the original in-service date, not the manufacture date. You should be able to find out the in-service date from any dealer or Ford Customer Service. You will also need to be under the 36,000 mile limit. As far as the smoke smell, you may need to have the vehicle professionally treated or you could look into purchasing an ozone generator and try to take care of it yourself.

I had this last year, same issue. The cause was a corroded and broken front wheel ABS sensor wire. I was puzzled for a few months couldn't find anything wrong. I went as far as to replace all 4 ABS wheel sensors, Turned out to be the sensor cable was just corroded and broken inside the plastic wire loom just after the ABS connector, so of course when I replaced the sensor it didn't fix it because the wire break was further along on the other side of the connector. Doh. Anyhow, there is a youtube video showing this and how to fix it. The corrosion and break on mine was IDENTICAL to what's on the video. A quick clean and re-solder of the broken wire solved everything. No code clearing or reprogramming needed.

Falling off a cliff presupposes starting out at the top of the cliff.

WRT to "cracking open" the OM, how true. In my Lincoln LS forum, we had an emoji for this when we got questions that were easily looked up: "RTFM." Allen will attest. I think you can probably figure out what those initials stand for.? WRT the subject at hand, I said in my original post that I thought it could be the fob battery, but OTHO, presumably, no low key battery alert popped up. OM:

Hi Lewie. It all depends on what type of part is being discussed. In the case of "fender flares", a universal fit is not a good idea, since the fender openings, dimensions, bulge etc are different in every vehicle. A good analogy would be a universal, one size fits all pair of pants (or shoes etc). Not a good idea. However, if you decide to try it, post back and let everyone know how it works out. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi JohnLongoria and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. Sorry to hear about your issues. My first recommendation would be to go to the Firestone shop/shops where you have had the oil changes performed and ask for copies of the past work invoices. They should have it in their database and easily be able to make copies for you. The problem here is the following: While it is true we do not need to have maintenance work performed at Ford Dealerships, we do need to have proof that proper/required maintenance work was performed somewhere. So that means work invoices from an independent shop, or if we do the work ourselves, receipts for oil/filters etc. Unfortunately, as far as automakers are concerned (not only Ford), in the case of a catastrophic failure, not having work invoices or receipts for oil/filters etc. is all the proof of lack of maintenance they legally need. Therefore, I would try to get copies of the work invoices from Firestone. If that is not possible, then contacting Ford Customer Relations or trying another Dealership would be the next step, as WKelley mentioned. However, trying another Dealership may not work, since the first Dealership will have the warranty denial noted in the vehicle history now. Keep in mind I am not stating you didn't perform the maintenance (I believe you did), I am simply providing the warranty requirements/ramifications of not having invoices, receipts etc. Keep us updated and good luck.

This is late for the original poster, but I just had the same problem and found a Grainger part that works as a replacement. Grainger part number is 5ENW3 and vendor part number is PR-4PK. Worked perfectly for me, just had to cut off the little clocking tab on the console where the latch clips into. Hope this helps other folks hlwho don't want to spend $500 to replace a $2 part... Eric

I have a 2008 Fusion and also had similar issue with the dash bulging/popping out along the cabin side of the defrost vent, as well as along the topside of the passenger airbag. I bought the vehicle used in 2010 and I started to notice the issue in approx 2013/2014. I let it go (mostly due to time and unsure of how to fix it). Well, more recently, I decided it was time to tackle it. At the time of my repair, my dash had separated the entire length of the defrost vent, left to right, and in some areas I could reach my hand in up to the mid palm area. After much searching (Ie: Google-ing, YouTube searches, etc) for the ideal or appropriate adhesive, and based upon numerous recommendations, I ended up first trying a Permatex Clear Silicone RTV Adhesive. This, initially, seemed to work well, but about 48 hours after the the repair, it popped right up again --- DOH!! So, my next (and currently successful) effort was Contact Cement. I will outline below what I did so that it might help a few others that are having the same issue and want to attempt a repair: 1. I did the repair in my garage on a mild temperature day -- low 70s. (PS: garage door open and windows of car open as well due to fumes, etc.) Many adhesives will recommend to avoid direct sunlight for a period of time (usually no more than 24h) and to keep temperatures at a mid range. If you don't have a garage, I would pick a cooler day and maybe use a sun screen or cardboard in the windshiled. I also picked a weekend when I didn't need to drive my car for a good 24 hour stretch. 2. Don't waste your time on the RTV adhesive... after I had to "undo" the repair, it peeled right out in small sheets. Thankfully, it was a relatively inexpensive trial and came out pretty easily to "undo"... and maybe if I had a smaller area, it would have worked better (??) 3. I placed thin cardboard between the windshield and the dash and taped it in a few placed to the windshield... I say thin, because it is a small area to work in, so the thinner the better. I used a couple of opened-up cereal boxes. This also helped to keep any Contact Cement off of the windshield and made for easier clean-up. 4. I also applied blue painters tape to cabin-side of the dash near the defrost vent... again, mostly for ease of clean-up. The tape didn't want to stick very well, but I employed the "more is better" rule and had decent coverage. 5. Getting the adhesive in to that area is a real [insert expletive of choice]!!! :-) It's an extremely tight area!! I ended up wearing a rubber glove and would dip my fingers approx 2 inches into the Contact Cement. Then, as carefully as possible, I would use my gloved fingers/hand to spread the Contact Cement between the "popped" dash and the .... .... well, other part. :-) I repeated this process until I felt I had good coverage (felt slimy/wet) top and bottom from left to right and as much of the front to back of the "popped" area as I could reach. 6. Wait. I waited until the Contact Cement was good and dry on both sides --- I think I gave it a good 20-30 minutes. 7. Once thoroughly dry, I pressed the two areas together. There really is no good way to "clamp" this area. Some posts talked about using duct tape to tape the area down going from the dash and into the vent area. This didn't work well for met at all. So, I ended up stuffing some plastic bottles that I happened to have in a recycling bin between the dash and windshield. This came with some trial and error and thinking on the spot, but actually worked extremely well. It was not extremely compressed as I didn't want to damage the windshield/seal, or dash... just enough to provide a little to mild bit of pressure on the adhered areas. Smaller bottles (water bottles, small milk jugs, shampoo bottles, etc) seemed to work the best. There may be other or better ideas out there, but that's what worked for me. 8. I left the area "clamped" for approx 2-3 hours (probably didn't need quite that long, but no harm in having too much time). 9. Once unclamped, I removed all the cardboard and tape. I left the vehicle in the garage for another 24h (or close to it) per the specs on the can of Contact Cement to avoid direct sunlight for 24 hours I repeated similar process for adhering the dash above the passenger airbag, except that I used a scrap of 2x10 that I had in my garage as a weight on the area. :: DISCLAIMER :: Make sure you exercise judgment when working around the airbag components. I did not have to remove the airbag for this repair. If you do decide to remove the airbag module, just be aware that there are specific safety measures you should follow. Thus far, this seems to have been successful, but time will tell. I'm a little leery about how well this will hold up under the "stress" of hot summer days/high interior temps, etc, but for now, all seems well. :-) Hope this helps someone!! Good luck!!

Dear Akirby, I am sorry that you do not think that this is a safety issue. I have a letter from the FEDS to say that this is a safety issue because the airbags have deployed and killed some passenger and injured others due to the bulging. So let me be clear YOU FIX YOUR CAR THE WAY YOU WANT TO. I AM GOING TO FIX MY CAR THE WAY THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT SAYS TO. So thank you for not caring and offering terrible advice.If you do not have the letter from Ford and a recall number then you can not give advice on something you have any knowledge of. Have a great day.

This problem is in a recall and I do not want to do anything Ford may seem to void my car. So I thank everyone for the suggestions, however I am going to wait to see what Ford does and the Federal government. If nothing is suggested by December I will contact the Federal government again. Thanks

I took my ford fusion into the dealer at the beginning of this year because I noticed my passenger airbag was starting to bulge. They stated it was o.k. and I did not need to worry about it deploying. I asked them how much would it be to fix it and they told me that it COULD NOT be fixed; and no one recommended it should be replaced either. Now, that the Vegas summer is almost over, the bulge has gotten worse and it looks as if it is going to deploy. I bought a dashboard protector and solar shades and that still did not help the situation. I was wondering how we can fix this problem as a national recall.