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An EVAP code is unrelated to this issue. The Torque app doesn't have the capability to read HVAC codes.

I would not start fixing anything until you pull that fender, hood and bumper cover off. You need to look for hidden damage. Although a deer usually is not a big enough animal to total a car, it all depends on how hard it hit.

Temporarily plumb in a mechanical gauge and see what the actual oil pressure is. If you're lucky it's just the sensor, but you won't know the state of the motor without testing first.

We've deleted all of the spam (or are still rooting some out) from the site. We've also implemented preventative measures to stop it from hitting the site. Robert

I'm glad to hear that. As I noted earlier, the 2.5 is a pretty durable engine. There are any number of reasons for a bad compression reading in one cylinder. As you've illustrated, not all are catastrophic failures, and you did the right thing by asking them to show you exactly what the problem was.?

A 20i4 Fusion S should have the 2.5L engine. These are workhorses and are pretty durable engines. We haven't seen many "catastrophic" failures here with that engine, as seen more frequently with the EB engines. Could you confirm that it's the 2.5 and how many miles are on it? I agree WRT to exploring other options if it does indeed need a new engine, so long as the rest of the car is in good condition.

Might be time for a new 12V battery. If you still have the original battery in there, you're well overdue. My wife's Pacifica was doing the same thing, remote start would try and fail, even though starting it normally would work fine. Put a new battery in there and now it works every time.

The switch is actually part of the latch assembly, so you have to replace the entire assembly. Check to see if your car was covered on the latch recall, if it's still open on the recall list it will save you from paying for a new one.

So you're getting pissed off at the Hybrid function, not working correctly anymore as it once used to, or very rare instances of it working, but not the way you've been used to anymore. It basically makes hypermiling near impossible. That is because Ford has programmed into the car's hybrid system, a high voltage battery age date which makes you believe you have to service or change out the HVB battery pack. This is most likely a precaution from the company itself to limit the batteries usefulness at it approaches the end of its life as the battery capacity has dropped from the years gone by. I believe this is to relieve stress from the ageing HVB which in turn will use your Internal Combustion Engine a lot more often, which defeats the purpose of word Hybrid. From what I have seen in the Forscan program, it looks like the 15-years is the max date and the end mark for the battery in the hybrid system. Reaching this point is anyone's guess. It could have a message popping up on the dash saying something like "replace HVB battery now" or the HVB system ceases to function, and you just have a regular gasoline car. So here is what I did to fix (or temporarily for now?) to restore the Hybrid EV function as you once remembered it. (This method should work from 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid and should work on most likely 2010-2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid, & 2010-2012 Mercury Milan Hyrbid as well (According to the Ford OASIS from Oct 3, 2019 these are the years affected). I highly doubt this fix will work on the 2013+ because the chassis has gone through a major change, the computing system of the vehicle is not the same and may behave differently with the vehicle and other additional features are added to it not found in 2012 and below. They may not even exhibit the problem (Unless Ford really did screw everyone over by limiting the HVB's on all their hybrids ever produced. Who knows? I guess time will tell. You will find out around in 8 or 9 years I guess) You will need a few things to get started (or what I have used): Step 1 - Gather the tools for the job - A Windows laptop - ODB II (ELM327 HS-CAN / MS-CAN) device. -ForScan software The ODB II device I had on hand, which is a few years old, but it worked for me, is the brand/model BBFLY BF32302, you can buy this on Amazon for around $23 range (I'm sure you can use any other brand you choose and possibly cheaper, they have Bluetooth & wifi models. Or you might already have an ODB II device) https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BF32302-modified-Windows-ELMconfig-Forscan/dp/B01N9R9QS2 USB model (I used) If the other link sells out, this is also another good one https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Programming/dp/B07S7W14X9?ref_=ast_sto_dp Wifi model $29 https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BB77105-ELM327-Modified-FORScan-Windows/dp/B076VPXPK5 ***NOTE*** These are not affiliate links. I get nothing from it when the product is bought. These are just merely the products that I know I have no issues with it when using it. Step 2 - Drivers & Software Once you have your OBD II device, you will need to install drivers with the device to the laptop for it to work (instructions should be included inside the box on how to do it from the manufacturer of the device), it might be plug and play and the drivers might install on its own. Next, you need the FORScan software: https://forscan.org/download.html I downloaded/used the FORScan version 2.3.22 beta for Windows. Next, you need to activate the software with an "extended" license as it comes in "standard" license by default. Why do you need to activate the software to "extended" you ask?: What is Extended License, why and when do I need it? Extended License provides access to Configuration and Programming functions of FORScan, and also few Service functions (such as PATS programming). Base (Standard) FORScan functionality such as (connection, retrieving vehicle information, reading parameters, read and reset diagnostic trouble codes, run tests and service functions etc) does NOT require an Extended License. There is a free 2 month Extended License that can be issued for anyone who has an account on our FORScan forum. Also, there are paid long-term and lifelong licenses. the "Configuration and Programming" functions are making changes and edits to the car's computer data. Which includes programming keys, etc., or in this case you want to change the battery age. It falls within this category, which the Extended license is required. Create a free member account on their forum to get the activation file key. there is a 2 free month trial. (even if it expires, you can just make another again to re-activate) Here is a 1-minute youtube video of how to activate the software with ease: STEP 3 - Programming in your vehicle. Under your steering wheel, is a small square cover. Open the cover. It will reveal the port for the ODB. Plug in the ODB II device into it. Next, insert your car keys, turn the key to the "ON" position (Don't start). (Sample picture of key positions) Open the FORScan program. Connect the device, a button below (two plugs joining icon). Once you connect, you will be instructed to create a profile, just follow the onscreen steps. If you get a message about the MS-CAN setting on the ODB II device, it is the toggle switch on my ODB device, I had it switched toggled towards the wire of the ODB II device. Next, on the left-hand side of the program with the icons, go to the one with the CPU processor looking icon (5th one down), click on it, and you will be brought to this screen. on the Configuration and Programming tab, highlight the "BECM Module Configuration" and go hover your mouse pointer over to the "blue play button" icon below and press it. Next is this section you will see. Highlight the "Config battery age" (double click on it, can't remember this is just from my memory) and press the play button icon again, (the screen is cut off on the right side of the picture, but for me, it said (The values might differ for some people or may say the same for you, but I'm guessing this is the info it shows after 9+ years): Name Value Config battery age error Config battery end life counter Module configuration Config charge since rebalance error config hybrid battery state of charge error config hybrid battery state of charge 2 error Just choose the "config battery age" (I didn't change the other settings on that list, as I don't know what to do that might screw it up, so I didn't play around with it. You can go into it and see it, but I didn't save any of those changes. I guess in time I will find out more info or learn when I have time to tinker some more. I would love to get rid of all the error values) Next, you will see this screen, it looks like I was about to hit the 10-year mark (yours might be lower or higher than this number, this is just a running counter in their system to keep track of the approaching total of years for the HVB. Select the "2400 - 1" and hit the "blue checkmark box" (although technically the 0 - 0 year would work, but the auto techs at the dealers that have been fixing it, have been choosing year 1. So I will just choose that) Next, it will take you back to the list of 5 config battery options, hit the "write" button below, and then this window will come up. hit the blue checkmark button to confirm Done! here is the last window popup you will see confirming the change. Click on the top icon on the left-hand side (car with the letter i in a bubble icon), Then press on the un-connect icon below (circled in red), to un-connect the vehicle from the program Close the program, and then unplug the ODBII device. Cycle the ignition OFF and then back on as per the programming message you've just seen. The results of the EV activating will be immediately noticed when you start to drive your car (within a minute or so. It may take a few minutes if it's too cold). I hope this will help your problem fix your issue as it did for me, This forum post was done from my memory, as I didn't really take any notes down, so I hope what I've posted is pretty accurate. Please don't screw around with other settings. if you want to change other settings for the vehicle, I suggest you search or ask questions on the Forscan forums. there are guides on how to use the program to its full potential. There is a ton of info on there to do custom stuff (lights, upgrade sync, key programming if you lost original fob, etc), but that will be for another time for me. If you are happy and this solved your issue, and you happen to feel generous want to donate $ to me, I will happily accept lol (have PayPal). But it's your choice, not forcing anyone to give anything to me. I just want to spread the knowledge and help others out having this problem develop late in the car's ownership. (I'm sure as time goes by, some dealers that do not know of this fix, will catch wind of this thread and offer this solution to their customers and make money for the dealer, hahaha. If anyone that owns this 2010, 2011, 2012? Ford Fusion Hybrid and lives in the Greater Toronto Area, and cannot find a dealer to do this, I can probably perform this for you if you'd like.

I had this problem with my 2017 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium which I bought new. I also bought an extended warranty. I asked Ford to fix it but Ford declined a the grounds that it was a defect in the “ dash pad” which was not covered. I took Ford to arbitration and the arbitrator ruled in my favor. I argued it was a safety matter because the defroster was not working properly and I was concerned that the air bag would not deploy properly. During testimony the Ford engineer admitted that the air bag might not deploy properly and that the defroster would not work properly.

In the past, these issues were mostly caused by the 12 volt battery needing to be replaced. Your vehicle is around 5 yo so it sounds like it should be replaced. That's the easiest and most economical option.

Thanks for the update. I meant to mention the updated driveshaft in my previous post but forgot. At least it wasn't the PTU or rear diff. Just for reference, $1800 CAD converts to $1335 USD as of today. At your mileage, I'd still consider changing the PTU fluid if it's never been done.

It sucks spending so much, but it is good to have a guaranteed fix too. Glad you got it!

Update and resolution to the above issue. Also thank you all for the input and help. Rear U joint was the culprit. Badly worn but couldn't be replaced as it is staked, or crimped into the drive shaft. Drive shaft with U joint was replaced with an OEM unit. Upgraded from a 3 piece to 2 piece driveshaft which improves reliability. 5 Year warranty. Cost all in was $1800 CAD. For a laugh, the first mechanic I took it to (Midas) said the vibration was coming from a stuck caliper. Geez.

My best internet guess is the read differential is going out of it. If that's not it, then the "transfer case" is likely 2nd. 3rd would be the actual transmission itself.

Won't be a fuse, especially if things "work". Sounds like the module cannot relearn or some other issue like that. Get someone with a good scan tool to get in there, there should be some codes (which will not set a CEL).

I'm sorry it's taken so long for me to update you on my problem with the issue of the upholstery/carpet disintentagrating on the shelf behind the back seat of my 2019 Ford Fusion. I was in contact with an employee at the local Ford Dealership, Wehr Ford and RVs in Mountain Grove MO about this issue, and I kept calling him every week or two to get an update. He kept telling me he hadn't been able to reach anyone, hadn't received an answer, etc. When I called last week, I was informed he had left the Ford dealership, but the person I was talking to said they would reach out to him and get an update. Well I guess the update was that the only progress he made on getting my issue resolved, was finding out that my Extended Warranty covers things like the driveshaft, etc., and doesn't cover the fabric on the back window shelf. So the person I spoke with last week said he would try to help me. He had not been able to get anyone on the phone to help him, so I asked if I should try to call Ford. He said sure, it can't hurt. I was transferred from one dept to another at the number for Ford Pro Team, 800-343-5338, and spending most of the time on the phone on hold, I was disconnected after 47 minutes. They all seemed sympathetic and concerned about getting me to the right person. When I was disconnected I called back. The person who answered couldn't find my case number, didn't know who I talked to, but finally transferred me to "Caseholder Yolanda." She ws short and impatient with me, said she couldn't help me, that the dealer needs to reach out to the "field service engineers." I finally gave up and called the mechanic at the Ford dealership who "inherited" this problem from the former employee. I am now waiting on a callback from him. The thing is, when I have an issue I don't get discouraged and give up; I get stubborn. I'll keep you informed on my progress, in getting this matter resolved. If ANYONE has any info or helpful advice that might resolve my problem I would sure appreciate it.

My replacement is now 3 years old and it's fine. Just a bad batch and poor quality control. Al

we have a 2010 FFH with 135,000 miles on it now, got it used for $6M in 2017 with around 85M miles and have only done tires, brakes front and back (although the fronts did not need to be replaced) and the B1S1 O2 sensor and throttle body. Oil changes around every 3500-4000 miles with full synthetic, I have run flats on it since this is pretty rural here and I don't want the Mrs. to worry about tires. It is the best running, most reliable vehicle i have owned in 60 years of car ownership, and still gets 36mph or better consistently even though it is now a 14 year old car. I just did a rebalance (autel md808) on the HV battery yesterday, and all 28 groups are within .04 volts of each other when completed, showing again how good these battery packs are even after years of extreme heat and cold. I know it won't last forever, but these are really great cars imo.

It would be cheaper to call a locksmith/tow truck for a lockout call than breaking glass.

Just wanted to do a quick DIY repair thread on the P1A16 error code (usually accompanied by a bunch of other codes that lock out the battery). So it turns out that the coolant pump for the inverter/transaxle was weak and or failing. In my case it was moving water just not well and it had burnt up my inverters (Car is located in a hot climate). Per the PC/ED supplemental manual it states you will need to replace the whole transaxle on the car. I ended up buying a used transaxle (the shop accidentally split the unit in my case). They also dropped the gear portion so I ended up getting the inverter portion that I needed (at an extreme discount). In most cases you will need to buy the whole transaxle since it is a "sealed combo unit". If a shop is not that bright and split it they are obligated to sell you the whole thing since it is just one part number (or ask for a discount). This is not a Prius or newer gen Fusion/Lincoln where its a separate unit. I have linked screenshots from the online manual offered by https://www.nicksmustangranch.com/. The P1A16 code specifically means the inverter is toast. If you like to wrench in general on your car Nick has the most comprehensive interactive online Ford Manuals (just requires a donation for access). He does it as a hobby and I have found the service manuals and diagnostics to be extremely helpful. ***WARNING SIDE NOTE****** Before taking on a project like this realize this is a high voltage system and it can kill you. Follow all proper procedures and guidelines to stay safe and you will be okay. I pulled the high voltage disconnect for the car. To double check I used a voltmeter before proceeding to verify the voltage was not present. You can also get high voltage gloves. I also disconnected the 12v battery as well. With that disclaimer out of the way regarding safety. Here are some general photos with lots of steps not shown. Quick Rundown: -Remove cover -Disconnect all wire harnesses and pull aside (be sure not to crimp or damage) -Remove circuit board and its attached bracket -Remove all bolts holding on the inverters (do no let them fall into the car when reinstalling) -(Optional) Ohm the 3 phase motors while you have access to make sure the transaxle is good -Remove the Inverters keeping track of where the units go (Doner to Car) -(Optional) Get some computer thermal compound and put it on the bare spots (I did not remove the paste). Or buy industrial thermal compound (Probably overkill). -Reverse installation of the inverters -****KEY POINT*** Install the cars existing circuit board or the car will NOT start and be immobilized -REPLACE THE COOLANT PUMP FOR THE TRANSAXLE Some Photos of the process: Here is the inverter in the car with the cover still on. I had started to remove the reservoir at this point. I have removed the cover on the inverter. The green circuit board needs to go back into the car and not the doner board. So set it aside and make sure it does not get damaged. Super important or your hosed. As you can see I moved the attached wires to the side to not get damaged. I then removed the bracket that held on the circuit board. I removed all the hex head bolts on the inverters and unplugged the wires shown. This is the doner car's inverters. It looked like the first picture and had the board and all the other parts. I removed everything but left in the inverters until I was ready. This is crucial since you do not want debris between the thermal paste and the heatsink in the car. Just a side note and tip leave all the metal plates on the old inverters and new ones. You will have to loosen them but do not remove to just make life easier. Here is a closeup of the used inverters. You can see how I left the tabs on. You will also need to replace the water pump for the inverter/transaxle. If you go on eBay you can buy a genuine Engine Auxiliary Water Pump Bosch 0392023014. It is the exact same pump and you can install it in the stock Ford bracket. This is much cheaper than the $$$$$$ Bosh part with the Ford part sticker on it (I just transferred the sticker over). This is not for the faint of heart but if one has some mechanical knowledge it is doable. Just have to be safe and take your time. Also, change the transaxle fluid to prolong the life of the transmission.

Hi cdygalloway. Yes, as WKelley stated, it can be considered "normal". In addition, you may want to check your power steering fluid for correct level, if you have not already done so. And if it has never been flushed/changed, you may also want to have that work performed. Keep us updated and good luck.

Yes, that is normal as the engine is speeding up the power steering pump as it would struggle at idle speed to turn the wheels while stopped.

They've had their share of recalls due to engine failures. Again, these are considered safety issues, which the coolant intrusion in Fords is not.

Have you checked the actual speed input sensor for functionality? That would be my main focus. The P062A is unrelated to the transmission but could be causing driveability issues as the fuel pump module, not the pump, may be failing causing problems with engine performance. The fuel pump module is a fancy relay located in the trunk I believe but don't quote me on that.

I know this thread is dead, but wanted to give my experience with the viscous coupler on my 2015 ford fusion 2.0 AWD with 140,000 miles. I scoured the internet on this topic and came up short except for this thread. Hopefully this post will help someone in the future. One day I was turning out of the grocery store and I thought someone had hit me. I pulled over to check the car and everything seemed fine. I continued on my journey home, but every time I turned at low speed the back end would shudder or the rear tires would chirp. I unplugged the sensor and everything seemed to work fine, minus the AWD warning light. I came across this thread and saw the bulletin from Ford on the viscous coupler. The only thing was when I looked part number CV6Z-4A232-A in google the ford fusion was not in the list of vehicles. I decide to continue on with the teardown, because from what I saw on the internet looked a lot like the rear end on my car. The process took me about 5 days to take the part out due to not having much guidance and working on the car at night after work. Here are the steps I took to remove the viscous coupler in my car. 1. There are 6 torx 45 bolts that you need to remove from the rear driveshaft. I considered these bolts to be a one time use, because half of them were on the verge of stripping. 2.There are 4 torx 40 bolts on the viscous coupler housing you will need to remove 3. You will need to remove the two 13mm bolts that hold the center drive shaft bearing. This will allow you to move the drive shaft away from the viscous coupler housing. 4. There will be plate that holds the grease for the rear driveshaft connection in the coupler housing. This part will need to be removed with some plyers to be able to access the last bolt holding the housing on. 5. The bolt behind the plate is also a 13mm. Once the bolt is removed, then you will have to break the housing free, because the coupler housing is attached to the differential with grey gasket maker. Once you remove the housing, you will have access to the viscous coupler. 6. Remove the viscous coupler from the vehicle. I had to use a little bit of force for this step. 7. There are 4 torx 50 bolts that will need to be removed to separate the front of the viscous coupler and the spindle on the front of the viscous coupler. 8. You should now have access to the sensor of the viscous coupler. There is a metal ring in the center that you will need to remove, so you can remove the sensor. 9.Once the sensor is removed, there are 3 torx 25 bolts you need to remove. Once these bolts are remove the final piece should slide out. 10. Take a deep breath, because the viscous coupler is now out of your vehicle. 11. Order the part and install everything in the reverse order. When I removed the coupler I notice some of the splines had worn down just enough to cause some slippage. I paid $462.00 for the viscous coupler part number CV6Z-4A232-A and 6 driveshaft bolts $1.62 a piece part number 5F9Z-4682-AA. The drive shaft bolts come in pairs of two, so I really only bought 3 pairs. I hope this post provides some guidance to a DIY like myself.

HOW WERE YOU ABLE TO DISPLAY THE ERROR CODES ON THE VEHICLE'S SCREEN (DASHBOARD)? What's the procedure?

No, the value of the car will not go down with a used engine and a new engine would not make the car worth more than current retail. I'd call it a $10K car with a good solid used engine installed. The car market is stupid around here, I would fix my car over buying right now. It all depends on what you can find in the used market around you.

the 2009 Ford Fusion gauge cluster is ugly

That's how the plugs look in a Ecoboost 1.5l. Change them. Mine were very similar at 65,000 miles. If it's not burning a lot of oil, like a subaru/dodge/jeep, Don't worry about it.

You cannot simply install a different size engine in any modern car. You would have to change so much it is not financially viable as an option. I look at my relatively simple 2010 2.5L and think how easy it would be to pop on a turbo, but making it work would cost more than buying a much faster car.

Could also be the dreaded coolant intrusion defect. If so, hopefully you have a warranty of some kind.

Hi ankhzy. First...Your 2020 Fusion has a 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty, and any tune or modification you make to your 2020 Fusion can lead to denied Powertrain Warranty claims. So keep that in mind if the warranty is important to you. Next...aftermarket cat-back exhaust systems and so called "CAI's" (cold air intakes) do nothing for power increases in this case. More exhaust and intake noise? Yes. But no additional power. This is because our vehicles already have very good/efficient exhaust and intake systems. The short story: The bottleneck in the exhaust tract are the catalytic converters, and an aftermarket cat-back exhaust does nothing to change that. And in the case of aftermarket CAI's? Our vehicles already have a quality, sealed CAI from the factory, while most aftermarket CAI's use an open air filter box (or a poorly sealed box), which pulls in hot engine compartment air. So while they look pretty, they do not help with power increases. So again, if you want more intake and exhaust noise and the placebo effect, those items are great. But they do not offer anymore power. More power can be obtained with an aftermarket tune (a tuning programmer, not a cheap, worthless "chip"". Just keep in mind a tune may/will endanger any warranty claims under the Powertrain Warranty. And yes, the Dealer/Lincoln most certainly do look for and have the ability to find traces of aftermarket tunes. Keep us updated and good luck.

I'd think it would be much more than just adding sensors. Is there wiring? Will the safety/infotainment/whatever have the software to support it?

If you can wiggle a wiring harness and it causes things to work then you need to open that harness until you find the bad wire. It's not a fun job and most mechanics won't do it, but straight replacing the harness is also a bit much considering it is likely that the bulk of the harness is fine. Anyone that does wiring type work would do it but the cost won't be cheap.

In my 20 years being a mechanic every time I replace the blower motor I'd also change the resistor and the pigtail. If any one of those 3 parts failed I always changed the other 2. If you do not change all 3, the problems will continue. I also would pay the price premium for original Ford parts, aftermarket parts have gone into the toilet as far as quality.

What version Sync3 are you on? There are quite a few reports out there for this issue on Sync3 v3.4.22251 Some have fixed it by doing multiple consecutive Master Resets. Others have updated to a newer version using Cyan Labs (Ford unsupported) as Ford has not officially released anything newer than 3.4.22251.

The 1.5/2.0L Ecoboost engines were crap. In general, cars built from 2013+ seem to really suffer from quality control problems. Too many modules, engines designed very poorly, the list goes on. I love my 2010 base SE with the 6spd manual. There is very little to fail on my car, does not have 20+ modules like the 2013+ do. New cars are terrible and very overpriced.

Honestly not worried about it

Are you doing the relearn using the rear door switch or the driver's door switch? The relearn has to be done on the affected door switch, not the drivers switch. A bad driver's door switch pack can also cause the problem.

Finally got around to replacing the battery and now the auto start/stop is working perfectly. Thanks everyone for your help!

I had this last year, same issue. The cause was a corroded and broken front wheel ABS sensor wire. I was puzzled for a few months couldn't find anything wrong. I went as far as to replace all 4 ABS wheel sensors, Turned out to be the sensor cable was just corroded and broken inside the plastic wire loom just after the ABS connector, so of course when I replaced the sensor it didn't fix it because the wire break was further along on the other side of the connector. Doh. Anyhow, there is a youtube video showing this and how to fix it. The corrosion and break on mine was IDENTICAL to what's on the video. A quick clean and re-solder of the broken wire solved everything. No code clearing or reprogramming needed.

Hi Roxas. Just as an FYI: Unless you specifically ask them to check the transmission operation, a "full service", oil change, or even "The Works" package does not usually include carefully checking the operation of the transmission. At best, they will check the transmission fluid level. And even that can be doubtful (according to the thoroughness of the Tech), since in many Fusion models, the airbox must be removed to do so. If it were my vehicle and this issue was that noticeable, I would have it specifically checked for transmission issues by your Ford Dealer as soon as possible, before it does get worse. Keep us updated and good luck with whatever you decide to do.

While I won't jump into the battery load tester discussion, it's not relevant in this case as bbf is misunderstanding the pop-up message. This is the message that comes up when the vehicle can't detect the key fob after you've driven some where and turn the car off. Imagine the scenario where you're driving your spouse to the airport. You both get in the car together, but in fact you've forgotten your key, but your spouse has theirs. When you get to the airport, spouse hops out, taking the key. You turn off the car to get out and help with the luggage. This pop-up will warn you that you don't have your key and gives you a time window to restart. Otherwise your spouse runs into the airport with your key and you're stuck in the airport drop-off with a vehicle that won't start. It's almost certainly a result of declining battery in the key fob. Could be that the fob battery is right on the edge and after sitting in your pocket while you're driving it warms up enough to where it's not putting out enough signal. Could be the location of the fob inside the vehicle at the time you turn off the car that's causing the variability. Either way, replacing the battery in the fob is the first step to try.

Hi Lewie. It all depends on what type of part is being discussed. In the case of "fender flares", a universal fit is not a good idea, since the fender openings, dimensions, bulge etc are different in every vehicle. A good analogy would be a universal, one size fits all pair of pants (or shoes etc). Not a good idea. However, if you decide to try it, post back and let everyone know how it works out. Keep us updated and good luck.

Won't work, wiring/pcm will be different amongst other things. I don't think I would repair a car with that engine, they are terrible and unreliable for sure.

No it is not under warranty. My car is at 110k miles. I am the original owner and all maintnenance has been up to date and records to go with it. It is at a mechanic shop. It has been there for almost a week and they still can't figfure out what is causing the issue either.

This problem is in a recall and I do not want to do anything Ford may seem to void my car. So I thank everyone for the suggestions, however I am going to wait to see what Ford does and the Federal government. If nothing is suggested by December I will contact the Federal government again. Thanks

automotivemasters, Well, I wish I owned a shop too. Then maybe I could fix it myself. It seems simple and straightforward to you because that's what you do....Not to me. Unfortunately, no one in the LA area that I've found so far will touch it. However, if you know someone please give me the reference. I would gladly pay $100 plus labor. Thanks

I have an 08 Fusion and my dash is doing the same bulge. There is a lump right under the airbag on my passenger side. My vent on my dash by my windshield popped up on the driver side as well. Is there a glue that I can glee that plastic down? I seems that a clamp came out and it is almost impossible to get in up there to replace the clamp. Any ideas on a fix for the bulge or the pooped plastic vent? Thanks all