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So you're getting pissed off at the Hybrid function, not working correctly anymore as it once used to, or very rare instances of it working, but not the way you've been used to anymore. It basically makes hypermiling near impossible. That is because Ford has programmed into the car's hybrid system, a high voltage battery age date which makes you believe you have to service or change out the HVB battery pack. This is most likely a precaution from the company itself to limit the batteries usefulness at it approaches the end of its life as the battery capacity has dropped from the years gone by. I believe this is to relieve stress from the ageing HVB which in turn will use your Internal Combustion Engine a lot more often, which defeats the purpose of word Hybrid. From what I have seen in the Forscan program, it looks like the 15-years is the max date and the end mark for the battery in the hybrid system. Reaching this point is anyone's guess. It could have a message popping up on the dash saying something like "replace HVB battery now" or the HVB system ceases to function, and you just have a regular gasoline car. So here is what I did to fix (or temporarily for now?) to restore the Hybrid EV function as you once remembered it. (This method should work from 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid and should work on most likely 2010-2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid, & 2010-2012 Mercury Milan Hyrbid as well (According to the Ford OASIS from Oct 3, 2019 these are the years affected). I highly doubt this fix will work on the 2013+ because the chassis has gone through a major change, the computing system of the vehicle is not the same and may behave differently with the vehicle and other additional features are added to it not found in 2012 and below. They may not even exhibit the problem (Unless Ford really did screw everyone over by limiting the HVB's on all their hybrids ever produced. Who knows? I guess time will tell. You will find out around in 8 or 9 years I guess) You will need a few things to get started (or what I have used): Step 1 - Gather the tools for the job - A Windows laptop - ODB II (ELM327 HS-CAN / MS-CAN) device. -ForScan software The ODB II device I had on hand, which is a few years old, but it worked for me, is the brand/model BBFLY BF32302, you can buy this on Amazon for around $23 range (I'm sure you can use any other brand you choose and possibly cheaper, they have Bluetooth & wifi models. Or you might already have an ODB II device) https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BF32302-modified-Windows-ELMconfig-Forscan/dp/B01N9R9QS2 USB model (I used) If the other link sells out, this is also another good one https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Programming/dp/B07S7W14X9?ref_=ast_sto_dp Wifi model $29 https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BB77105-ELM327-Modified-FORScan-Windows/dp/B076VPXPK5 ***NOTE*** These are not affiliate links. I get nothing from it when the product is bought. These are just merely the products that I know I have no issues with it when using it. Step 2 - Drivers & Software Once you have your OBD II device, you will need to install drivers with the device to the laptop for it to work (instructions should be included inside the box on how to do it from the manufacturer of the device), it might be plug and play and the drivers might install on its own. Next, you need the FORScan software: https://forscan.org/download.html I downloaded/used the FORScan version 2.3.22 beta for Windows. Next, you need to activate the software with an "extended" license as it comes in "standard" license by default. Why do you need to activate the software to "extended" you ask?: What is Extended License, why and when do I need it? Extended License provides access to Configuration and Programming functions of FORScan, and also few Service functions (such as PATS programming). Base (Standard) FORScan functionality such as (connection, retrieving vehicle information, reading parameters, read and reset diagnostic trouble codes, run tests and service functions etc) does NOT require an Extended License. There is a free 2 month Extended License that can be issued for anyone who has an account on our FORScan forum. Also, there are paid long-term and lifelong licenses. the "Configuration and Programming" functions are making changes and edits to the car's computer data. Which includes programming keys, etc., or in this case you want to change the battery age. It falls within this category, which the Extended license is required. Create a free member account on their forum to get the activation file key. there is a 2 free month trial. (even if it expires, you can just make another again to re-activate) Here is a 1-minute youtube video of how to activate the software with ease: STEP 3 - Programming in your vehicle. Under your steering wheel, is a small square cover. Open the cover. It will reveal the port for the ODB. Plug in the ODB II device into it. Next, insert your car keys, turn the key to the "ON" position (Don't start). (Sample picture of key positions) Open the FORScan program. Connect the device, a button below (two plugs joining icon). Once you connect, you will be instructed to create a profile, just follow the onscreen steps. If you get a message about the MS-CAN setting on the ODB II device, it is the toggle switch on my ODB device, I had it switched toggled towards the wire of the ODB II device. Next, on the left-hand side of the program with the icons, go to the one with the CPU processor looking icon (5th one down), click on it, and you will be brought to this screen. on the Configuration and Programming tab, highlight the "BECM Module Configuration" and go hover your mouse pointer over to the "blue play button" icon below and press it. Next is this section you will see. Highlight the "Config battery age" (double click on it, can't remember this is just from my memory) and press the play button icon again, (the screen is cut off on the right side of the picture, but for me, it said (The values might differ for some people or may say the same for you, but I'm guessing this is the info it shows after 9+ years): Name Value Config battery age error Config battery end life counter Module configuration Config charge since rebalance error config hybrid battery state of charge error config hybrid battery state of charge 2 error Just choose the "config battery age" (I didn't change the other settings on that list, as I don't know what to do that might screw it up, so I didn't play around with it. You can go into it and see it, but I didn't save any of those changes. I guess in time I will find out more info or learn when I have time to tinker some more. I would love to get rid of all the error values) Next, you will see this screen, it looks like I was about to hit the 10-year mark (yours might be lower or higher than this number, this is just a running counter in their system to keep track of the approaching total of years for the HVB. Select the "2400 - 1" and hit the "blue checkmark box" (although technically the 0 - 0 year would work, but the auto techs at the dealers that have been fixing it, have been choosing year 1. So I will just choose that) Next, it will take you back to the list of 5 config battery options, hit the "write" button below, and then this window will come up. hit the blue checkmark button to confirm Done! here is the last window popup you will see confirming the change. Click on the top icon on the left-hand side (car with the letter i in a bubble icon), Then press on the un-connect icon below (circled in red), to un-connect the vehicle from the program Close the program, and then unplug the ODBII device. Cycle the ignition OFF and then back on as per the programming message you've just seen. The results of the EV activating will be immediately noticed when you start to drive your car (within a minute or so. It may take a few minutes if it's too cold). I hope this will help your problem fix your issue as it did for me, This forum post was done from my memory, as I didn't really take any notes down, so I hope what I've posted is pretty accurate. Please don't screw around with other settings. if you want to change other settings for the vehicle, I suggest you search or ask questions on the Forscan forums. there are guides on how to use the program to its full potential. There is a ton of info on there to do custom stuff (lights, upgrade sync, key programming if you lost original fob, etc), but that will be for another time for me. If you are happy and this solved your issue, and you happen to feel generous want to donate $ to me, I will happily accept lol (have PayPal). But it's your choice, not forcing anyone to give anything to me. I just want to spread the knowledge and help others out having this problem develop late in the car's ownership. (I'm sure as time goes by, some dealers that do not know of this fix, will catch wind of this thread and offer this solution to their customers and make money for the dealer, hahaha. If anyone that owns this 2010, 2011, 2012? Ford Fusion Hybrid and lives in the Greater Toronto Area, and cannot find a dealer to do this, I can probably perform this for you if you'd like.

(This post no longer needed. Managed to merge the picture with the original post)

Allen84, Just purchased a 2010 Fusion Hybrid with 131000 miles, and really keep in good shape I was lucky. Out of the box the EV just didn't seem right. We owned a Prius prior, so I knew something just didn't feel right with how the car was driving on just the engine even at a lower speed. Did some research and bam, found your forum and instructions on how to reset the battery. Bought the bbfly from Amazon you suggested, no issues and windows 10 auto installed the drivers. Only issue I had was that I downloaded the Forscan extended key to my main PC not the laptop I was going to use the software on. Resent the Forscan peeps for another key, got it in 30 minutes, loaded up the laptop, headed out to the fusion and Bingo Bango 5 minutes later the car drives like its brand new. I went from 30 mpg to over 42 mpg just like that after resetting MPG and EV settings. The EV is running at even 40 mph once I get to speed and feather the gas pedal down, battery is doing just as described and maintaining a perfect even charge. I found a quote from a dealership in the owner's manual for a new battery and install priced at over $5000.00. Hence why he probably sold the car to the same dealership, and why the dealer had the car priced so low. I am so glad we purchased the car, and thank you so much the instructions, the suggestion on the bbfly, the links to everything, and how easy everything was to follow and was right on the money. I joined just to thank you, but I am learning so much from all the great information throughout all the forums!

So now it has been 2 years now since I've discovered and applied this self-fix for the battery reset. The car is still going strong without any issues so far. Still getting get great mileage.

YES!! I started the other thread back in December hoping to find a solution. Dealer had my car for 3 weeks, no solution. Just did the procedure exactly as you laid out in impressive detail - car seems to run much better now, using the battery as it is supposed to. Curious to see how the car responds when it is cold again - but I am guessing that this fixed it based on how the car drives now. The only thing I would add to this thread is the fact that when I wrote the new battery age setting to the car, I heard a mechanical noise (maybe a relay?) from the area of the HVB - so I'm guessing that whatever happened back there got the battery back in business. Awesome work - I would have never been able to figure this out. I'm going to mention this in the comments of my YouTube video on the topic and direct folks to this thread as well. Thanks again Allen. If you send me your contact info I'd be happy to send some PayPal appreciation your way. I think Ford owes you as well! john.zavadil@gmail.com

It is now exactly 3 years to this date, since I've discovered and performed the battery age reset. The car is still going strong and the high voltage battery pack is still working just as well since i've bought it. I did an oil change, complete brake job replacement recently (new calipers, rotors, pads, new brake fluid), and with the warmer weather now, my MPG has skyrockted. Just did 975 km (600 miles) on full tank. Not bad for a 12 year old car I guess. Hopefully it can last a few more years (Which I think it can) when more options of EVs will flood the market from all the different auto manufacturers.

The start-stop feature is essentially regulated by the EPA, so the way it works has to meet the definitions set out by the regulations. The system isn't smart enough to be able to predict how long you will be stopped for, so it's designed to strike a balance between shutting off too much in stop-and-go traffic vs waiting too long and missing out on fuel savings. It's used as an "off-cycle" credit for CAFE purposes, meaning that it doesn't directly factor into the fuel or emissions testing for any particular vehicle, but based on the number of vehicles that an OME sells that have it, they get a credit to improve their average fleet fuel economy. Now a lot of people like to politicize anything that's part of a government regulation, but the facts are that it does save fuel and it does add up over the lifetime of a vehicle and over the millions of vehicles on the road. It's also a fact that many, many people find it annoying and would gladly trade off the small amount of savings to avoid the nuisance. But remember that every bit of fuel saved by every person in every car results in better air quality for all of us and lower fuel prices for all of us. My data is not made up, it comes directly from an engineer who's career is devoted to understanding fuel economy.

It's been 1 year since I've performed the HVB reset. No issues at all so far. Just drove home from work just now 77 F weather and sunny. 13 mile commute, 47 mpg, 0.29 gallons used.

This is as big the as the green box gets (see picture below). Same as when you bought the car brand new, when experiencing EV. Also to your question about the yellow wrench light. I had it this summer. Suffered through it for 2 weeks until it got worse and worse. Turning the car on and off got rid of it, but it came back every 10 minutes, Eventually, you will get 2 yellow wrenches on the dash. one small and a large wrench. Continuing to ignore it, a check engine light will come on. Plugged in my ODBII said I had a P2112 - Throttle body stuck closed. There is 2 ways to fix this. Very easy: -Clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Mine was caked with thick black carbon, took almost an hour to clean it with a popsicle stick and toothbrush. Apparently, you have to be careful cleaning the flap, as the gear controlling the position is delicate. I was kind of rough with it. After cleaning it, and put the throttle body back into the car, it only worked for a few days, until the problem came back. -buy a new one from your dealer. It's about $70. I replaced it myself, and haven't had an issue since.

Hi Everyone. Joined this forum after reset battery age to 1st year. I have had this same issue of barely going ev mode on my 2010 Fusion Hybrid for over a year. I have asked myself many times is that how Ford’s hybrids last, 9 to 10 years? Then it just turned into a regular car and have to haul the extra battery weight for the rest of its life? have also searched if the Toyota Prius has this problem, nope but different problem. I have searched for this Fusion ev problem over a year all over for info, but got none till last week. I always felt there was nothing wrong with the battery and it had to do with something Ford had put in. I have followed everything Allen had described. I could not get a laptop, so I haul my all in one Lenovo 23” inside the car to do it. I have two 2010 Fusion Hybrid (since this post takes care of the hybrid problem I am going to get another one 2011 $9000 with 20k miles). One Fusion with 96k miles and the other at 165k miles. Set both back to 1st year battery age. Now the ev mode will stay engaged up to the middle bar. That put a big smile on my face and some hollering. Finally got my hybrids back! Also I was able to programmed 2 extra keyfobs (from eBay with used Ford oem chips, but after market blank key blades) for one of the car, because the car came with only one key at the time it was purchased used. Both the hybrids drove/accelerate about the same now, even with the mileage difference. I also want to personally thank Allen for this post (also the reason I joined this forum). Thanks allen84! I also want to donate to your PayPal, let me know how.

Process completed last night, I can confirm my EV mode is back! Normal commute the last 6 months, car reported ~35mpg, today 43.6mpg. Thanks Allen! This thread should be a sticky. I have a sneaking suspicion this will also fix my A/C compressor not running at idle which I'm sure draws off the HVB. Another HVB preservation "engineering feature" I'm sure. That symptom started last Summer.....very annoying in 90 degree stop and go traffic. Jack in Ohio

I read a boat load of examples where Fusion Hybrid Owners had EV issues and took their vehicles to Ford with bad results. My experience was a little different. My issue as previously reported was with the EV. When the ambient temperature dropped below 50 degrees the vehicle would not enter into EV mode except when stopping. As soon as I let my foot off the brake it auto started the motor bypassing the EV mode. Nominally the car would move in EV mode whenever I released the brake. So clearly there was a malfunction. I took it to a neighboring Ford Dealer Echelon Ford Stratford NJ. My local dealer charged more for diagnostics and was setting appointments two months out. These guys had me in the next day. After 6 days of being w/o my car due to various reasons it is now fixed. The process is called "Balancing the battery" obviously the "battery" is the Hybrid battery. But to do the EV battery test they needed to put in a fully functional 12 V car battery. That set me back $155 and I also needed Freon. From that point the car had to be warm to do the test [ test is to confirm or deny that the EV battery is functional] Not cabin warm EV battery warm. 50 degrees. So they stored it in the body shop overnight and completed the process in morning. I am happy to report it is fixed and back to the normal EV functions. It was 21 degrees this morning and after it got to operational temperatures it reverted to EV operations. Total including seriously high taxes [ after all it is NJ] I paid $427.00 Hopefully this helps other Hybrid owners. Best to you all.

​On my 2011 Fusion the AC would work and then start blowing hot air. Turning the car off and on again will get the a/c to work again but no guarantee on how long it would work. It seemed that if I turned on the light and then turned on the AC (and keeping the lights on), the AC would work the whole time. With help from this forum, the issue was narrowed down to 1. Blend Door Actuator 2. EVAP Temp Sensor 3. HVAC Control Module. Since the blend door was the easiest to get to, I replaced it first but it did not resolve the issue. I was able to get OHP Ford ELMconfig USB device from Amazon for about $30 and using Forscan software on a laptop I was able to rule out the evap sensor. I did not want to spend over $200 for a HVAC control module and was able to buy used on ebay for $30. Replaced it and my a/c has worked perfect since. Hope this helps. BTW - if you are going to replace the HVAC module, look up youtube videos on replacing the radio on your Fusion. The video provides instructions on how to remove the bezel.

We've deleted all of the spam (or are still rooting some out) from the site. We've also implemented preventative measures to stop it from hitting the site. Robert

Might be time for a new 12V battery. If you still have the original battery in there, you're well overdue. My wife's Pacifica was doing the same thing, remote start would try and fail, even though starting it normally would work fine. Put a new battery in there and now it works every time.

Would be pretty hard to have a 2021 Ford Fusion part since 2020 was the last year of production.

There are two tight areas around the front wheel in a 1st gen Fusion. 1 is the between the top of the tire and the ball joint stud on the upper control arm. The second is when you turn the steering wheel one full turn in either direction. The tire on the inside of the turn gets very close to the flange that joins the firewall to the body side (you can't see the flange, it's behind the plastic wheel liner, but if you rub through the wheel liner, the tire will be scrapping on metal). So you can take a look and see if you feel comfortable with those dimensions. But keep in mind tire math is not as simple as the numbers printed on the sidewall. Those numbers are just "guidelines" and actual tire dimensions can vary significantly. The manufacturing guidelines for tires are so broad that you could in theory produce a tire labelled a 205/60 and it would actually be taller than a tire that is labelled a 205/70. And then combined with the spring rate of the tire which will determine the compressed height, you may or may not get any noticeable difference in ground clearance with a tire size change.

I'm posting this in case anyone has experienced a similar issue, and since I have a possible resolution that is working so far. During the past few months, in my 2017 Fusion SE 2.0L with 28k miles, various interior controls stopped working intermittently: climate control buttons, touch screen, seat memory, window switches, audio controls. Sometimes whichever control was out would came back right away after restarting the car, other times the problem would persist for up to a day. This would happen a few times a month no matter who was driving. The issue became more urgent when my wife couldn't turn on the defrost/air-conditioning during a rainy drive despite repeatedly stopping & starting the car. First part of trying to resolve was getting the battery checked at Batteries Plus; they determined the battery was only allowing 70% capacity charge and had sulfated due to too many short trips, so I replaced the battery (they offered to try and overcharge it back closer to original capacity, but I didn't want to make more trips back and forth and keep this as a troubleshooting variable). Problem came back a week later, again with my wife driving. Took it to dealer for warranty service, where they found numerous codes (non-check-engine-light worthy(?)) and "re-initialized" the car for the new battery but otherwise were unable to reproduce the problem(s); they got the codes cleared and could not make it produce new ones in a (likely short) test drive. Problem with CC/seat buttons came back as soon as my wife drove the car again. More troubleshooting at home, eliminated the position of the steering wheel as a factor, then determined it has something to do with wife's seat position (memory setting 2), which is up and forward for a 5'4" person instead of down and back for 6'1" person. Took the door apart and cleaned the connectors, but reproduced the CC button problem again afterwards, so it (probably) wasn't the memory switch or door wiring. Finally determined that lowering the seat an inch from position 2 would make the problem go away, so it was something with the wiring under the driver seat itself. Wiggle/bend/pull wires didn't make it occur, so (hopefully) no broken wires. Unplugged and re-plugged all the connectors (there are a lot) under the seat, and the problem is no longer reproducible with seat raised, and has not occurred for a week now despite various attempts and driving with the seat all over the place. Fingers crossed it was just an intermittently faulty pin connection to whatever module is mounted under the seat (although the battery issue might also have contributed, these newer models want a battery in "good" condition). I did find a link online describing similar issue, but no resolution given: http://www.carproblemzoo.com/ford/fusion/front-seat-power-adjust-problems.php

My 2011 Sport got a bath today. I think she looks pretty good for being 9 years old.

Gentlemen... This afternoon, the Red Line Hood Struts I ordered for my Fusion arrived. (Yes, I got tired of that idiot prop rod holding up my hood.) It only took about 15 minutes to install the upgrade, and now my hood opens, and stays open by itself, the way I think it should. I still have a few more upgrades to tweak the Fusion to the way I think it ought to be. I really wish there was a way to import that sweet creamy-looking white leather interior like the 2018 Platinum offered... mine is called "Ebony and Russett," but putting saccharinity aside, I call it "Black and Orange." The "Russett" seats are the same color as a basketball.

You are not putting anybody's safety on the line, weakening the battery or causing other problems by doing this fix.

Hi joetogo. Unfortunately, trying to purchase, install and integrate all the necessary SYNC components and programming into a non-SYNC vehicle is more involved than your write up, and actually more trouble than it is worth. Although it is not what you were hoping, you would be far better off installing a Bluetooth equipped aftermarket unit. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Thank You Allen, I have a 2010 Milan was five years old when I bought it and I can't say I remember it Hybriding (?) so efficiently since Iv'e owned it... do you think it is a progressive thing? I asked the service manager at the the local Ford dealer and he was unaware of it, said he had a car like that a little while back that they could not fix...he knows how now...so does the battery dealer that sold me the battery that I returned, I didn't see this post until after I bought a new battery so it cost me 400 bucks to give the thing a ride around the U.S...

That's the battery ventilation piping. That big 9kw Energie Battery gets warm during its operation, and there's a blower to keep air flowing through the cell assembly. It draws air from the vehicle's interior and blows it through the cell assembly and outside. I wouldn't mess around with it too much...

If it was a British market Mondeo, it would be the passenger side...

I'm not so sure such a change in acceleration is not a safety issue. There were about 70,000 of these 2010-12 cars produced and I suspect only hundreds have been fixed due to this forum. I'm pretty sure all will be affected. The cessation of reconditioning associated with this EV limiting may actually be worse for the HVB than permitting it's normal use. I haven't heard of any other hybrids doing this. As a matter of fact Gen 1 Prii tested at 160,000 miles by the D.O.E. had over a 60% HVB battery capacity reduction yet their EV function and mileage remained the same. One minute full throttle performance should have been the only spec affected but they didn't test for that. The 2010 FFH had 8% capacity reduction at 160,000 miles. This is a 15 minute job for a dealer.

I just filed a NHTSA complaint alleging a safety issue caused by reduced acceleration due to the Atkinson cycle engine not being designed to be unassisted in acceleration by the HVB as this OEM software operates. The next thing we can do is go to the automotive press like Consumer Reports and national newspapers like USA Today, the WSJ and NYT.

Maybe in the 2.5 years since this thread was started, Susa has read the owners manual.

I got my 2010 FFH on 7/18. At about the end of the 8 year hybrid warranty, one morning the HVB was near the "L" mark after being left at the normal middle the previous night. I wondered if I had left the car in accessory and run the 12 vdc and HVB down like I had once before but that time the 12 vdc was dead and this time it was not. The car started normally and recharged to the middle. This happened several times in the next year and each time the EV functionality diminished. I thought I had experienced shorted cells until allen84 started this thread. In most hybrids the HVB is several hundred cells in series. The HVB must be functioning for the car to move as HVB electric power is required to control the torque on one of the motors in the transmission to even allow the ICE to move the car. If one of the cells fails open circuit, the HVB voltage will be zero and the car will not move and coast to a stop. The ICE may stay running but will not start if it is stopped. This is exceedingly rare. If a cell shorts, the HVB voltage of about 300 volts only drops about 1.4 v. and the energy capacity of the battery only drops less than 1%. This has also been rare. The usual effect of lower HVB voltage is a reduction in the maximum EV speed which is what most of us noticed. Electric motors need higher voltages as their speed increases due to a characteristic called "back EMF. EMF is "electromotive force" or voltage. I think allen84's thread is the most valuable one ever posted on any FFH forum.

If it's not broken, dont fix it.

If it is the 2 smaller stacked cell batteries, this video is probably of the same remote (replace Mercury waterfall with Ford blue oval):

Something to keep in mind. If there are people out there that haven't had their EV fixed yet, and are willing to wait on Ford, however long they may come up with a fix, your engine is going through unnecessary wear and tear, like a normal gasoline car. This means your oil change intervals are going to be inaccurate. A normal 2010 Ford Fusion, needs an oil change every 7500 miles or every 6 months. The hybrid needs one every 10000 miles or every 1 year. The oil life reminder reminds you to change, but it takes into consideration for the hybrid as the engine comes on less frequently.

Hi Allen, I’m having an issue with my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has only 91K miles and the problem is the EV mode not working ! It’s running like non hybrid straight gas .. I want to know witch laptop I should buy to download the software? Thanks man you helped a lot of people you are the king ? LOL

Allen84 Rocks! Allen helped me reset the hybrid battery back to year 1 and bingo, the car runs like new again. I have a 2010 Fusion with 196K and the EV issues started in the fall 2018. Last winter was a gas-guzzling nightmare with the engine constantly revving and the EV battery constantly charged/charging (that was worrisome) except during continuous highway driving. I brought my car to Erinwood Ford in Mississauga twice - they also had the Service Manager drive it home over night, and after all this time and cost, I was advised "conditions are normal". Clearly they were not, but since the vehicle did not generate error codes, these guys can't fix what they cannot diagnose. I contacted Ford Canada on several occasions with zero help. In fact, I also notified them of the potential fix posted online and that is when all communication ended - Ford simply stopped responding to my emails. Less than 10 minutes with Allen and all is now back to normal driving. Nothing lasts forever, but it is obvious that continuously charging a fully charged battery and over revving an engine is not the way to mitigate safety concerns, so I challenge any claims that this fix compromises operational safety. It is simply planned obsolesce or a programming error. Either way Ford should 'fess up and rebuild customer trust. In the meantime... A BIG THANK YOU TO ALLEN84!

Your wish is my command!

I would like to thank allen85. I did this fantastically explained fix and I can now enjoy my vehicle once again. As many have other stated on here i also figured my vehicle I was only going to get 30 mpg ,before I was getting around 40. Thank you so very much

They are actually built in now, if you go to Torque Settings (from the main screen, not the Real Time Info screens), Manage Extra PIDs, 3 dot menu, Add predefined set, Ford, and scroll to "Left..." and "Right..." and you can add them that way, the equation is slightly different than what I put in, but I think both result in the same displayed pressure. Lots interesting pre loaded available Ford only PIDs in that list, I created my own set as I frequently change devices and makes it easier to do.

Try this.

The only official jack points are the same ones in the owner's manual - doesn't matter whether it's a floor jack or scissor jack. For a floor jack you use a pinch weld adapter. I made my own out of block of hardwood. Some cut slots in hockey pucks. It is difficult to get both the floor jack and jack stand near the same position though. You can always use this product:

Hi SwitchbladeSue. The most likely explanation is that the battery needs to be replaced. You need to let your Ford Dealer properly load test the battery. Older type battery tests are no longer accurate on modern cars. I forget, is your car still within the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to bumper Warranty?

Even 1 bad cell in the HVB will severely limit the amount of energy that the battery can deliver. Measuring individual cell voltages after charging may not identify the cells that are weak. The measurements need to be performed while the HVB has a load. For those vehicles that are nearing the end of the 8 or 10 year warranty period, you can bet that Ford will stall and not find any HVB issue until the warranty expires (and even then it is not in their interest to admit to an issue).

While they are usually less than the 150 watts that 110v AC power point supports, the manual says it doesn't work well for some types of items, including micro-processor heating pads/blankets.

This. IDK why you'd be thinking of cleaning anything with 6K miles, especially the intake. I certainly wouldn't use Seafoam or anything like that on a EB engine. Here's why: https://youtu.be/-ynGWxzJHjA If and when the MAF needs cleaning, no, you don't just spray into the air intake. The MAF must be removed before cleaning; either by removing it from the intake tube or taking the part of the intake off that has the MAF attached. See this video for proper procedure: https://youtu.be/dsqFTIYVbpQ.

I agree about punctuation, grammar, and spelling. I realize that forums are not meant to be the same as writing in a professional environment, but let's face it - When you write well, people are going to be more likely to both comprehend what you're saying, and respond in kind. It's just human nature. I know when I see posts from people who clearly quit paying attention after 1st-grade english, I tend to zone out/recoil... I wouldn't say eGuru's response qualifies as "grammar police". I read it more like he was simply venting a very relate-able frustration over what I agree is a disturbing trend online. Having said that, nobody is ridiculing you, and as you can see, we want to help. I think bbf2530 and drolds are right on in their analysis. Welcome to the forum!

A warranty job is a paying job. The dealer submits the claim to Ford, who is the customer in this sense, and they pay the claim like any other repair job. Recalls can actually be quite lucrative for dealers, as this is guaranteed income from a predetermined number of cars that the dealer knows will come into the service department.

Hey Thomas, there are plenty of videos on youtube explaining the features and installation of the LC7i. The ones I used where by 5 star car audio. AudioControl also offer free PDF of their products for download on their site. But install is very straight forward. Firstly you'll need a 12v constant source and ground since this is an active crossover. Inputs will be your factory level signal and output will be RCA. Finally, you can add a remote in to turn on or turn on with the signal. http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc7i/

Just located the problem on my 2010 fusion with the PRNDL staying on and that was causing the PCM stay active. The micro switch for the park position was bad on the shifter assembly. I removed the micro switch and set voltmeter to ohms (with beep on) and tried ohming across all three wires with the switch in and out with no change. I cut the three wires and reconnected the one large wire connector. Next two steps I only touched and did not twist or keep them permanently attached. Touched the black and blue wire and the P (park position) turned orange. Touched the red and blue wire and heard a click. The PRNDL on the cluster turned off. I checked fuse 26 (instrument Cluster battery power) inside and it was still 2.8 millivolts, good? But, when I checked fuse 46 (PCM) under the hood. Yes, it dropped from the 10.3 millivolts to ZERO. My large draw on the battery has been eliminated. Leaving the battery connected to validate my findings. Microswitch for the shifter assembly? Unlikely that I will be able to purchase that separately from the shifter assembly. I'm glad that it was not a PCM ($500) causing the large draw. Will follow up with final findings and how I resolved my problem. Thank you all for the help and getting me pointing in the right direction with the PRNDL post. Again, thank you!

My first thought is the bearing is probably starting to go. The easiest way to tell is to jack up the front of the car so that the wheels are completely off the ground, and then try to 'shake' the tires/wheels both back and forth and up and down. If the bearings are good, there should be ZERO play in the wheels.. if there is ANY movement at all, then the odds are extremely good that your bearing for that wheel is going out. Some bearings won't actually induce play into the wheel at all, but can still be bad. For these, you can tell by jacking the car up, or putting it on a lift, and getting the wheel moving, either by hand, or via the engine, such as in this video by Eric the car Guy: (please note that putting the car in drive while it is jacked up CAN be dangerous, so make sure you take precautions. I have been suspecting that one or more of my bearings on my 2010 Fusion is starting to go.. slight feeling, slight noise.. I checked this past Sunday, and sure enough, the passenger front wheel has about 2 millimeters of play in it.. Time to order a new bearing/hub assembly. I was REALLY hoping it would be a rear bearing, and not a front one. Rears are both much cheaper, and MUCH easier to replace.

For the pads, I personally like the Akebono ceramic pads.

This video will show you how to test it. Do you have any error codes?