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It could be the throttle body assembly that is causing the stuttering. Have you brought your car into Ford to have the free software update to help with the mileage problem?

The 2.3/2.5 do not have a high pressure pump on the engine as it is a normal port injected engine, not a direct injected engine (which needs high pressure pump).

Quick search for a video and if you don't have at least intermediate skills this looks like a tough job. The injectors looked like they could be left in, but it really looks like a bear of a job. People likely change the valve cover itself because it has the PCV system build into it. All I can say is ouch. Take lots of pictures if unsure.

Welcome to the FFF, mescko! Perhaps some members with expertise in this area will weigh in. In the meantime, if you enter 'Mazda 6' in the Search box above, you may find some useful information.

Hi all! I found this thread when looking for info regarding an electric motor going bad or a hvb going bad in a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with ~ 175K on it and I am very intrigued about whether this applies to my scenario or not. Here’s the story …. I was first baffled by some “stuttering/stammering” that I would get from a standing stop at a stop light or stop sign. Not bad, just obvious enough to make me notice. It goes away once i get going. And it seems to not start right away as im driving around town. It’s like the engine has to get “warmed up” or something and then it starts with its stuttering. I have only had one instance since this started that i got a dash light and it was basically when this started - about 2 mos ago- and it stuttered pretty bad that first time. Light came on … car straightened out and hit a steady pace and light went out and hasnt been on since. Although it’s still mildly stuttering from standing stops. Took it yesterday for a code history reading and not a dag gone code came up for the hybrid system! I had 2 codes and both were regarding my rr tire. Anyway, after reading thru many pages of this thread i realized my car seems to not be using the EV mode either as it should and that is what made me wonder if the stuttering is connected. When i come to a stop, it goes straight to EV mode and as soon as i “go” it transfers over to the ICE. My hvb diagram on the dash seems to always show a full charge - or at least 1/2 way or more. I mainly use this car for “in town” driving as my other vehicle (a toyota truck) gets horrible mileage in town with the stops/starts. I have taken it on a few trips where my driving speed is mostly at 65 or above and my mileage is usually in the upper 20’s for mpg. I never thought of that as bad as it’s better than my truck! Anyway - seeing that people in this thread are getting in the 30s makes me wonder even more if this is all because my battery age needs to be reset. Anyway - any info that can be provided to point me in a direction would be greatly appreciated. Im all about getting that reader from amazon if that’s what I need. (Although I have an apple laptop so i hope there is an apple version.) and according to KBB, car not worth the cost of a new hvb so i will not go that route. Also, just as a last thought, does anyone know if this car will run as a regular ICE if/when either the electric motor or the hvb go bad or is it pretty much dead all the way when one of those goes bad? Thank you all in advance for any and all info! Cathy

If someone here has done the valve cover gasket on the 1.6 I am curious about the needed parts beside the gasket? I think I will need O-rings for the injectors and I watched a youtube video and the actual plastic valve cover needed to be replaced. So if you have done one can you give me some insight please.

I have a 2011 Ford Fusion 4 cyl hybrid. It's the only car I've had whose 12 volt battery is at a 45 degree angle. The battery died. My problems is putting the new 12v battery in. I managed, with great effort, to remove the dead battery. There is a large rigid black plastic (pipe?/conduit?) over the battery area. My question is can I loosen this rigid plastic thing so I can get the battery in? Thanks

So has anyone done any research into what (if any) Mazda 6 parts are compatible? I suspect there aren't enough manual cars left to warrant that kind of time unless you're an anorak like me (who doesn't have the time either). Scott

So my rocker panel on my 2020 ford fusion is now f###ed. I must of went over drainage ditch to fast and when I got out. Broken rocker man this sucks! Anyone know were to get pre painted body pieces.

Great news. My next move would be a full inspection of all the hoses and the radiator, look for staining that is out of place. Check the a/c drain as well for coolant staining.

Well except for bubbles while I was doing the test it past. On to more ideas.

I sure hope it is something much less. THe test mainly helps you rule it out. Good luck!

Well test kit came in today. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow and test it out. I'm getting a vibe

Hello, I have a ford fusion 2011 having the same problems, have taken it to several places, no one hears it but me, noise is so loud backing up, sounds like I hit a car. Don’t know what to do, timid about driving but have to get where I need to be

Curious if you ever found a fix? I am experiencing same issue, 2017 also, my tank door has also stopped opening using the unless I use the emergency release in the trunk.

A scan tool can tell you right quick if it is a wiring or mechanical problem. If the PCM shows the fan is commanded on but the fan is not working then you have to start checking wire integrity. If the PCM shows no change in fan status then it's a problem on the control side. Fuses and relays are almost never the problem.

Thanks to all for this post, one of mine was disconnected. All fixed now ☺️

Hello, I have had my 2020 fusion since last year. I bought it certified pre-owned and I noticed a rattle coming from passenger side/rear trunk area. The car has 32,000 miles and I was hoping to have the forum take a listen and tell me their thoughts. Im not sure how to describe it to the dealer and they have said to put silicone lubricant around the trunk area and that has not really done anything to mitigate the issue. I attached two videos and look forward to your thoughts. cheers, J My Movie 1.mov

Cooling fan not coming on. Have replaced ALL OF the necessary fuses and relays. With ac on max blows nothing but not air.

Block Tester BT-500 Head Gasket Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA, Fuel Leak Detectors - Amazon Canada I just picked that one at random, but make sure your kit is complete with the tool and the liquid. DO NO use stop leak if there is a head gasket leak. It won't help much and will likely accelerate the failure.

So how is that process? I don’t have a tester chemical, would the funnel on the coolent reserve work.

The good news is that you have a 2020. Ford updated the design for 2020 to remedy the widespread coolant intrusion between cyls. 2&3 issue that plagued their 4cylinder EB engines. That said, I agree that you need to look further into this. If it's not consuming coolant, it could be something else, although I can't imagine what. IDK if the newer coolants emit the same smell as the traditional green-colored ones.

They tend to leak coolant into the combustion chambers more than into the crankcase, that's why you can smell it. It doesn't take expensive testing to rule out a possible headgasket leak. No other fluid smells sweet when burnt, that's why I think you need to focus there.

I just now started having this issue today (2013 fusion hybrid), front driver seems to be the culprit. Do you mind sharing your fix?

Hi, i have 2018 Fusion Se which has 4 inch radio i want to upgrade radio to new with android auto and CarPlay so, can i buy and swap it with any other model(2019/ 2015) of fusion radio with 8inch from someone who part out there car