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Look for live data, that's what you need to see. I would expect there is a specific security module, that's what you need to access.

I have two scan tools one is a Mucar (https://mythinkcar.com/products/mucar-vo6) The other is Forscan on my laptop using the recommended USB -> OBD2 dongle. I am not if either of these will allow me to the inputs, maybe the MUCAR does have live stream functionality. I will dig deeper into that once I get the car back.

Focus on the immobilizer code. That is what is preventing the gas engine from starting. You'll need a decent scan tool to try and fix this part. You need to see what state the engine computer is in and what the inputs for the immobilizer say. How did you do the initial troubleshooting on the P0A78? I would try putting the old one back in and see if anything changes.

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I need to pick up my daughters car tomorrow at the dealership as they have no clue what to do. The car does not run so will need to be winched up on my trailer. Before I get up to the dealer to pick it up, I was wondering if anyone can offer advice on good spots to hook a tow strap or chain too? I can go front or back. If anyone has any ideas on this next part great, but otherwise oh well, a dead car, that I have two years left of payments and full coverage insurance on. The car had a P0A78 Code so I replaced the inverter/converter assembly and now has these codes: P161A (Incorrect Response From Immobilizer Control Module) P1A10 (Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Prohibited) Is there a way I can reprogram these modules myself? The dealer I am picking it up at quoted me $11,000 to fix it telling me they had to replace the hybrid inverter, and it took special training and blah blah blah. I should have known not to let these people look at it when he said most people when they have problems with the hybrid system they just drive it off the gas motor. He then proceeded to argue with me that the part I replaced had nothing to do with the hybrid system.

Hybrid BIlly, I know it has been awhile since I first posted and to this day, this problem has not been fixed. I in essence have a vehicle with full coverage insurance and payments that is sitting doing nothing. I had it towed to a dealership, and they quoted me $11k to fix it. I do not believe it will cost $11lk to fix it, because what they told me and what I know to be fact do not align. I am actually going to pick the car back up this weekend. At which time I am going to tear the entire inverter/converter apart and see if I can figure something out.

What the oil dipstick looks like

All good thoughts thanks I'll probably go and order a stick through ford parts gaint. I purchased the car used,43k and from what carfax told me the pervious owner took great care of the vehicle. I've only put 10k miles on it.53k since I've owned it and just got it's 3rd oil change about a week ago. Idk

Hi Roxas. No, not an issue we have heard much (if at all). Mention it to your Service Advisor and see if they will replace the dipstick. If not, perhaps order a new dipstick and have the oil changed. Out of curiosity, how many miles on the vehicle? Did you purchase new or used? If you purchased used, I'm wondering if a previous owner did not change the oil in a timely manner. I am sure others will jump in to help, so keep us updated and good luck.

Technically not a good sign of engine health when things are stained with oil residue. I'd go to the dealer and get a new one myself.

I'm curious of stained oil dipsticks are normal on the 1.5 ecoboost the one with dongle on in not the normal looking one. Mines stained brown so I can barely check oil.

I am connected to Bluetooth successfully. I can see that music is playing on the display, title of song, etc. But no music is coming through. This is happening with both Spotify and Pandora. My phone connects successfully to other Bluetooth devices, so that is not the problem. Please advise! 2016

my low side pressure is 45psi, and the outside temp was 65 degrees so the previous owner probably could have over charged the ac system

134a gauges still work on these cars and using an ambient temp chart you can get accurate indications of what needs to be done to properly charge and maintain these systems. the only thing you need to be careful of is overcharging (like any 134a system) but if you vacuum the system you need new gauges that are pristine so that you do not contaminate the compressor with the wrong oil (NOT PAG) which causes a dangerous condition that makes the compressor electrically live and dangerous due to the high voltage requirements.

not sure i understand your question but if your high side pressure is 300 you need to read low side pressure too-300 is way too high, low should be around 35 and high around 200. my 2010 hybrid, which owned since 2017 recently began to not cool and adding a can of 134a brought pressures back up to proper pressures and vent temps now stay consistently around 35-40F. it sounds like your electronic compressor is straining at 300 psi so it shuts down to protect itself.

Hey y'all, I have a 2012 FORD FUSION with the V6 3.0L. Fuse 42 keeps blowing as soon as I turn the ignition to the on position. Fuse 42 comes out the fuse box and splits at S120. One side goes to the Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) and the other to the Anti-Lock Brake System Module (ABS). A couple weeks ago it blew so I replaced it. It kept blowing, so I kept replacing it because I have been trying to troubleshoot what may be causing it. When it blows, the (Brake light), (ABS light) and the (TCS light) comes on and I lose ABS. Power steering remains until I turn the car off. When I restart, I have no power steering now as well. I have 12+ volts on one side of fuse 42, and the other side is grounding out. I replaced the rack and all 4 of wheel speed sensors. Yes, it was programmed to the vehicle using FORSCAN. Codes in FORSCAN are as follows: Module: IPC Code: U0121:00-0A (Lost communication with ABS Module) Module: IPC Code: U0131:00-0A (Lost communication with PSCM) Any ideas? ABS wiring schematic.svg PSCM wiring schematic.svg

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid and the A/C works but only sometimes. i notice that if the compressor is drawing a lot of power from the battery then it will blow cold but then immediately decrease the power and the ac won't blow cold anymore. I did look in forscan to see if the evap temp sensor is working correctly and it reads around 68 degrees. I also looked at the pressure of the ac system and it stays between 280 and 300 psi. i'm really not sure what the issue could be since the car does blow cold air but usually only briefly. here is a video attached showing the issue. IMG_1415.mov

Hello, I currently own a 2012 Ford Fusion and the subframe is completely falling apart and is extremely rusted out. My question is can you take a 2012 model engine and stick it in a 2010 same year make and model?

Hi Need4Speed. Sorry if my first reply was confusing. The Traction Control system should default to "On" with each engine restart. If the Traction Control system is not defaulting to On with each vehicle start, then there is a fault in the system which will need to be properly diagnosed and corrected. This seems it may be one of those situations. Keep us updated and good luck.

I looked through the manual and can't find where a hard button is located. I also looked over the dash, console, etc and can't find one. The two symbols on the dash are always showing and lit. In the settings the box is checked, but it does not allow you to uncheck it (almost appears to be grayed out).

Hi Need4Speed and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. There should be a hard button for the Traction Control system. If there is not, it can be enabled/disabled in the information settings. However, the Traction Control system should default to "On" with each engine restart. If it is not, there is a problem with the system. You can find more information in the Owners Manual. If your son does not have the hard copy, the PDF version can be downloaded here: https://www.fordpro.com/en-us/fleet-vehicles/manuals-and-guides/ Let us know how you make out and good luck.

My son has a 2018 Ford Fusion with 19K miles. I was in it today and say that it appears that his traction control is "OFF". I can't find a hard button anywhere for traction control. I used the left steering wheel selector to select driver assist, and it showed traction control checked, but I have no way to uncheck it. What am I missing? How to I get the dash to show that it is "ON"? Currently has a small image of a car with wavy lines under it and the word "OFF" below it, and to the right another image of a car with wavy lines below it also.

Change the fluid in it yesterday. Make sure you take good care of it. Parts are scarce for the manual and the marts you can find are expensive. I have a 2010 SE with the 6spd manual. It's fun to drive but I find myself wishing it was an auto. I simply got too god of a deal on it, I'm into it for about $5K CAD an it just turn 102K KM (just over 60K miles). I had to replace the output speed sensor for the speedo and the part alone was $400CAD. I still like the fact that there is no auto slushbox to self destruct and my clutch still works/feels perfect. I'm 55 and I drive like it. Great cars!

Very few people work on A/C because of the complexity and the fact that it is not considered a do-it-yourself job in any way. You're supposed to be licensed to even handle this work. That being said, I'm not waving my finger at you. If you have the understanding and can get it working then you're further ahead than most. Most mechanics here (Lindsay, Ontario) will not touch A/C work unless you do it 100% by the book. TL/DR: People almost never fix their own A/c.

nothing?