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So how is that process? I don’t have a tester chemical, would the funnel on the coolent reserve work.

The good news is that you have a 2020. Ford updated the design for 2020 to remedy the widespread coolant intrusion between cyls. 2&3 issue that plagued their 4cylinder EB engines. That said, I agree that you need to look further into this. If it's not consuming coolant, it could be something else, although I can't imagine what. IDK if the newer coolants emit the same smell as the traditional green-colored ones.

They tend to leak coolant into the combustion chambers more than into the crankcase, that's why you can smell it. It doesn't take expensive testing to rule out a possible headgasket leak. No other fluid smells sweet when burnt, that's why I think you need to focus there.

Hi, i have 2018 Fusion Se which has 4 inch radio i want to upgrade radio to new with android auto and CarPlay so, can i buy and swap it with any other model(2019/ 2015) of fusion radio with 8inch from someone who part out there car

That looks like it's supposed to according to this.

Wouldn't you most likely have chocolate milk oil? I don't. Plus my coolent hasn't been going down, should I still worry about it.

You'll want to get your coolant tested for combustion gasses as soon as possible. Honestly, once you start smelling it it is already damage done. Likely a head gasket issue.

I'm getting a sweet smell when accelerating, in my 2020 fusion se. I checked the fluids yesterday and everything was fine I'm just curious what this could mean should I pull a plug and check for coolant. Oil looks fine at least on the dipstick?

Look for live data, that's what you need to see. I would expect there is a specific security module, that's what you need to access.

I have a 2010 Fusion sport. The battery will drain in about 8 hours. Ran a draw test after shutting the vehicle off. After 45 minutes, I continued to see it get periodic spikes. Any idea what might be causing this?

did you replace the fuel pump in the tank or the high pressure fuel pump on top of the engine?

I have two scan tools one is a Mucar (https://mythinkcar.com/products/mucar-vo6) The other is Forscan on my laptop using the recommended USB -> OBD2 dongle. I am not if either of these will allow me to the inputs, maybe the MUCAR does have live stream functionality. I will dig deeper into that once I get the car back.

Focus on the immobilizer code. That is what is preventing the gas engine from starting. You'll need a decent scan tool to try and fix this part. You need to see what state the engine computer is in and what the inputs for the immobilizer say. How did you do the initial troubleshooting on the P0A78? I would try putting the old one back in and see if anything changes.

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I need to pick up my daughters car tomorrow at the dealership as they have no clue what to do. The car does not run so will need to be winched up on my trailer. Before I get up to the dealer to pick it up, I was wondering if anyone can offer advice on good spots to hook a tow strap or chain too? I can go front or back. If anyone has any ideas on this next part great, but otherwise oh well, a dead car, that I have two years left of payments and full coverage insurance on. The car had a P0A78 Code so I replaced the inverter/converter assembly and now has these codes: P161A (Incorrect Response From Immobilizer Control Module) P1A10 (Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Prohibited) Is there a way I can reprogram these modules myself? The dealer I am picking it up at quoted me $11,000 to fix it telling me they had to replace the hybrid inverter, and it took special training and blah blah blah. I should have known not to let these people look at it when he said most people when they have problems with the hybrid system they just drive it off the gas motor. He then proceeded to argue with me that the part I replaced had nothing to do with the hybrid system.

Hybrid BIlly, I know it has been awhile since I first posted and to this day, this problem has not been fixed. I in essence have a vehicle with full coverage insurance and payments that is sitting doing nothing. I had it towed to a dealership, and they quoted me $11k to fix it. I do not believe it will cost $11lk to fix it, because what they told me and what I know to be fact do not align. I am actually going to pick the car back up this weekend. At which time I am going to tear the entire inverter/converter apart and see if I can figure something out.

What the oil dipstick looks like

All good thoughts thanks I'll probably go and order a stick through ford parts gaint. I purchased the car used,43k and from what carfax told me the pervious owner took great care of the vehicle. I've only put 10k miles on it.53k since I've owned it and just got it's 3rd oil change about a week ago. Idk

Hi Roxas. No, not an issue we have heard much (if at all). Mention it to your Service Advisor and see if they will replace the dipstick. If not, perhaps order a new dipstick and have the oil changed. Out of curiosity, how many miles on the vehicle? Did you purchase new or used? If you purchased used, I'm wondering if a previous owner did not change the oil in a timely manner. I am sure others will jump in to help, so keep us updated and good luck.

Technically not a good sign of engine health when things are stained with oil residue. I'd go to the dealer and get a new one myself.

I'm curious of stained oil dipsticks are normal on the 1.5 ecoboost the one with dongle on in not the normal looking one. Mines stained brown so I can barely check oil.

I am connected to Bluetooth successfully. I can see that music is playing on the display, title of song, etc. But no music is coming through. This is happening with both Spotify and Pandora. My phone connects successfully to other Bluetooth devices, so that is not the problem. Please advise! 2016

my low side pressure is 45psi, and the outside temp was 65 degrees so the previous owner probably could have over charged the ac system

134a gauges still work on these cars and using an ambient temp chart you can get accurate indications of what needs to be done to properly charge and maintain these systems. the only thing you need to be careful of is overcharging (like any 134a system) but if you vacuum the system you need new gauges that are pristine so that you do not contaminate the compressor with the wrong oil (NOT PAG) which causes a dangerous condition that makes the compressor electrically live and dangerous due to the high voltage requirements.

not sure i understand your question but if your high side pressure is 300 you need to read low side pressure too-300 is way too high, low should be around 35 and high around 200. my 2010 hybrid, which owned since 2017 recently began to not cool and adding a can of 134a brought pressures back up to proper pressures and vent temps now stay consistently around 35-40F. it sounds like your electronic compressor is straining at 300 psi so it shuts down to protect itself.