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Start by pulling plugs and seeing what story they have to tell. If all the plugs appear alike, then the problem is upstream. (post pics of the plugs) If only 1 has an issue, then you have found the culprit cylinder, and it is most likely a stuck fuel injector. You can mist water as well to find the leak, you do not need to use any kind of solvent. Issues can be caused by a bad EVAP purge valve or failing brake booster check valve also, in addition to the air intake system.

This would indicate to me an inadequate cooling design in the Fusion, maybe the radiator. I have not seen this issue in the Edge under the exact same conditions. With the A/C on, temps should be close to thermostat opening temps, within a few degrees. The A/C activates the engine cooling fans. Do you track the fan duty cycle in your OBD app? If not, add the FAN related PIDs to the list of watched gauges. Also, how often do you change coolant? If this heating up is a regular phenomenon, you will want to change it at half the normal coolant intervals, e.g., 30K miles instead of 60K, if 60K is the interval for normal driving.

FWD vehicles do not have a driveshaft since they do not need to drive the rear wheels directly. Usually cannot find carrier bearings separately, there is one company I know provides aftermarket, but has no reviews on them. I would go OEM and be happy for another 10 years. Online Ford dealerships provide discounted pricing, or you can check eBay listings.

Was your Milan AWD btw, coz I see dual floor posts for that configuration, like the one you have pictured. I just cannot get the posts/holes to match up visually, so I will have to pass on this deal

this is what Weathertech says will fit my Fusion

I am in MD, have FWD so that is not an issue. Will doublecheck the Fusion today and update, as I currently have the factory mats.

If the $50 includes shipping, and they fit the 2010 Fusion (not sure of driver mat hook location) I will take them.

Does the MKZ also have user-selectable suspension settings?

Got any pics of those classic Stangs stashed away?

Software-wise, you could probably attempt it with Forscan and as-built data from an SE. Be a lot of tinkering with bits/values of course. The 2gfusions forum and Forscan forum could help you along. Hardware compatibility ... not easy to say. In some instances, the hardware is the same, the connectors are not present; in other cases, wiring harnesses and connectors are absent in lower trim models.

Glad you & yours went unscathed during these terrible storms. Welcome & congrats on the new ride!

Clean ride! Welcome to the community!

Congrats & welcome! Tint will look great, don't forget the sunroof if you have that option, and tinting the windshield (80%, AirBlue for example) may help also.

Welcome and congrats! Love that color Any mods planned to it?

Jelly Welcome, NICE ride! Owned Fords previously?

Pull codes first, may be temporary codes that get wiped with a restart. Could be any number of things, but very likely electrical, such as a throttle position sensor/potentiometer (attached to throttle body), accelerator pedal position sensor (gas pedal), TSS/OSS sensor etc. Could be a vacuum leak but behavior should be more consistent. How many miles on your Fusion, original clutch or ...? How old is the battery?

Did you have the headlamps on when measuring the 5.6V? Make sure they are set to OFF when jumping the next time. In any case, batteries typically last 3 years on newer cars like yours, so it is a no-brainer to get a new battery. Unfortunately, there are very few "upgrades" to the battery due to the odd size (group 96R), but still you can get Interstate brand batteries for max reliability. Possibly with tray modification you can fit an even larger/better battery http://www.interstatebatteries.com/p/mtp-96r-ford-mustang-2011-v8-5-4l http://www.fordfusionclub.com/213-electronics-discussion/394514-how-upgrade-your-small-group-96r-battery-larger-group-48-a.html Though an Optima Group 35 might fit without modification, I have been meaning to try ... https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/redtop-starting-battery/35 Also, when checking battery health, CCAs is a better measure than voltage. I use a Solar BA7 tester to keep tabs on the batteries in my cars, but any major auto parts store will have the digital testers needed to test it for free.

Don't know what a 1.6L specific issue might be, but generally on the GTDI engines, misfires usually end up being related to fuel injectors. Sometimes it is plugs, and forced induction engines do love to eat plugs for breakfast. Rarely the COPs. Valve cover leaks are known to happen from time to time, so if you find any pooling oil in the plug well, that is what it is. No harm in trying a fuel injector cleaner, but I only recommend something of the quality of Techron Concentrate Plus or BG 44K. What Techron can't get out, BG can (personal experience). Keep in mind though these fuel injectors run under very high pressure, so any deposits on them are also coated on under high pressure. The cleaners have been developed for much lower pressure situations like carbed engines and fuel injected engines of the PFI variety. That is why the final solution usually ends up being fuel injector replacement instead.

Are Morimotos really that slow? Aren't they one of the leading brands today?

Design and quality of lighting is leaps and bounds better today regardless of source, when compared to decades past, that is certain.

Sorry to hear, and good luck!

Welcome to the community, mattri, good-lookin' ride Regular oil changes with full synthetic oil and Motorcraft filter should keep the engine pretty happy. And if anyone tries to sell you on 150,000 mile trans fluid life or 100,000 mile coolant life, don't buy it.

Welcome to the community!

Not normal to use 1/2 quart between oil changes. On these Ecoboost engines, it is important to check the turbo piping for pooling oil, the intercooler for pooling crud (which can be ingested into the intake), and turbo seals for leaks. If the cats are intact, there should not be any smoke even at WOT, unless you rarely go WOT, which appears to be the case. So as stated by others, that by itself is unlikely to be a cause for worry. But these engines do benefit from the occasional "Italian tuneup", they do NOT like being driven for strict fuel economy reasons.

You are resetting the meters at fuelups? Otherwise it is cumulating over many fuelups. That could be one possibility. Too early in its' life to be having spark plug/injector issues, but if it was driven a lot in city or high traffic conditions, then plugs would be worth looking at, along with air filter etc. http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/PowerSearch.do?action=noform&path=1&year1=2016&year2=2016&make=Ford&baseModel=Fusion&srchtyp=ymm 2016 Ford Fusion FWD 1.5 L, 4 cyl, Automatic (S6), Turbo, Regular Gasoline 29 MPG 25 36 combined city/hwy city hwy 3.4 gal/100 mi NA $1,250 2016 Ford Fusion FWD 1.5 L, 4 cyl, Automatic (S6), Turbo, Regular Gasoline 28 MPG 24 36 combined city/hwy city hwy 3.6 gal/100 mi 25.3 $1,30