Chingon

Yeah I had OEM bulbs, and I replaced it with Sylvania's from Autozone, but they were identical bulbs. I don't know what it was, as the aftermarket headlight assembly lacked some fit and finish, but was otherwise factory "looking". I doubt that had anything to do with the factory pigtail connector/factory bulb melting, but I guess we'll see...

I had my replaced under warranty at around 2.5 years, 30k miles?

I demanded OEM parts, but since the lady immediately ran into liability limits I had to start the claim through my own insurance (GEICO). According to the policy, you are forced to install aftermarket when filing a claim under your own policy. If it was her policy paying - the demand would have been met. However, I just got a call from the adjuster and they decided to install new OEM parts after seeing the after-effects of crap parts...

...the saga continues. I was told by a service advisor in person that headlight bulbs are not covered under 3yr/36k mile warranty. However, the pigtail (not the actual harness I guess, just the connector) was burned up and Ford was going to replace it.... UNTIL they realized that the headlights are reman'd parts, not genuine Ford OEM. They consider the pigtail connector part of the headlight assembly and wouldn't touch it. When I bought the car new off the lot, I was caught in the middle of a 5-car pileup when some lady slammed into the car behind me at 35+ mph. Oh, this was within 48 hours of buying the car. This crap just never stops with the car - now I have a new car with no warranty on anything in the front/rear of the vehicle. I'm not paying for it, but I still have to take it to a shop with no rental and wait days for adjusters to come out and ok replacements. What a pain.

I assumed even a burned-out headlight would be covered under the 3yr/36k mile warranty, but a call to the service tech said it would not be covered. WTF? I replaced it myself, but just last night at the gas station the same headlight did not turn on when I started my car. Turning the lights off and back on got it to light up finally - something's definitely up. Now I have to wait until Monday to get it in the shop, and my mileage is at 35,96X miles!

So I've seen this issue with my old lady's 2009 Edge tail lights - the bulb burns out and appears to burn/melt part of the harness with it. I searched those forums and it was a common issue with no recall/remedy. Recently, my passenger headlight went out and while replacing it I saw that the harness looked awfully burned up as well. I went ahead and replaced the bulb and it does appear to work as normal, but I'm a bit concerned obviously. Has anyone see this before? I'm coming up quick on 36k miles so I'd like to get it replaced if possible...

I should add that hub-centering rings and aftermarket conical lugnuts were a must. I had terrible vibration at highway speeds until I added those. Unfortunately the only hub centering rings I found were 0.1mm too large for the wheel bore, but they fit perfect with the plastidip on. The wheel hub spacing was a bit too loose for my liking, so I added some tape to the inside. I still get a tiny bit of vibration but so far I'm living with it...

Caught a decent deal on these OEM Cobra wheels. I just swapped my stock Michelins and TPMS sensors over. The wheels sit just a hair outside the fenders, but look way better IMO. After Plasitdip: One of these days I'll get some H-tech lowering springs...

I too came from a 3.0 Vulcan Taurus (2002) and now I drive a 2011 SE with 2.5L. My mileage was typically around 20mpg with the Taurus (didn't keep a log, but it was between 20-22 every fillup.) Now my official average is 26mpg, but comparing it to the Taurus I'd say I typically see a 3mpg increase in normal city driving. So compare my 2011 2.5L to your 2013 2.0L EPA ratings, then compare my old Taurus average to yours (loose comparison, but I always had my foot in it too...)

Oh wait, I guess I don't need adapter cables for either set...

Ok, so I've decided to take the plunge and order 2 35W HID kits from DDM (I know the quality/customer service issues are suspect.) I just wanted a peer review for my order so that I'm not getting the wrong stuff. I plan to order 2 of these, although I don't think I need the Error Eliminators for the fogs correct? DDM.bmp

Along with the non-winter blend of gasoline...

That's where I have heard the most feedback about DDM. If something goes wrong - you're SOL. Just buy another pair...

Half an inch :ninja:

...so your question is basically - what is the fastest production Fusion ever made? I would bet that it boils down to the 2010-2012 Fusion Sport FWD and the 2013 Fusion 2.0 EB FWD versions (1/4 mile and 0-60, although maybe the AWD is a bit quicker to 60mph...) You should Google that and get back to us!

I think it has something to do with the fact that they have less curb protection from the tire than a normal wheel would. If you think about it, the hubcap sits on top (to the outside) of the wheel, sticking out past the tire. In many cases you can scratch the hubcap in a situation where you wouldn't otherwise have hit the wheel... Just a theory?

I posted a thread about the accuracy of the mpg calculators in the dash - the bottomline was that most people's was ~2mpg optimistic compared to hand-calculated numbers. You should follow the general rules of calculating your own mpg and compare it to the dash number - I'd be curious to see what the 2013's read...

FWIW I went with the Huskyliner set after a comparison revealed that the cover just a bit more than the Weathertechs, and are cheaper to boot.

When I bought my car there was a deal for 4 free oil changes good for 2 years or 24k miles. I agree though - don't ask, just hope they keep coming (and mail some to me!)

What do you value more? Looks or night driving visibility? HID's will add to the looks slightly at night, but rims/drop look good all the time. Unless you have found the stock headlights to be insufficient, you can probably wait on those....

Well, that's the benefit of Plasti-dip - you get a 90% preview of how it would look painted/powder-coated. If you don't like it, peel it off! If you do love it, keep it and touch up as necessary or go for the full powdercoat/paintjob. IMO powdercoating is just too expensive and a PITA. You'll have to give up use of your car for a few days (pull the wheels/tires and then demount the tires/weights, powdercoat, then remount/rebalance.) You're lucky to get it done for $300-$400 too. For that price you can purchase a custom set of aftermarket wheels in any color of your choice, then sell your stock wheels to make up the difference... Powdercoating is for high-end wheels that you just love IMO...

This happens once in awhile to me. I have a 2011 SE with the regular stereo/no nav. When I'm listening to bluetooth off my phone and exit the car, the phone stops once I open the door and resumes when I start it back up. Now, if I'm listening to Pandora versus my mp3 files this rarely works and sometimes the audio starts back up with my mp3 files and Pandora doesn't stop when I exit the vehicle. Sometimes the bluetooth connection fails to establish period, which results in the default line-in issue. I think it's more of a phone issue (still using a Droid X) than the Sync. Usually when I do a hard power cycle on my phone the issues clear up. I would troubleshoot this with another phone if you can or power cycle your phone at least...

I emailed him and he never replied? Guess I'll try again...

I definitely want his contact info! Thanks.

Primax Type 695's. Now I just have to find the specs...