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Hi Penny and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. I am not 100% sure, but to my recollection, the 2010-2012 Fusion Sport did not have an engine cover. And when I Google "2012 Fusion Sport engine bay", the photos I found show no engine cover. The Lincoln MKZ 3.5L engine did have an engine cover. Some owners of the Fusion Sport would purchase the Lincoln cover, strip the Lincoln emblems/logos, and dress it up with Fusion Sport, 3.5L and other emblems/logos. The easiest way to verify if your 2012 Fusion Sport came from the factory with an engine cover (other than Googling, as I did) would be to visit the Parts Department of your Ford Dealer, or another Ford or Lincoln Dealer and ask them. Have your VIN handy (that is how they cross reference how a vehicle was equipped from the factory) and ask them to give you the part number and a price for the engine cover for your vehicle. If there is a cover, they will be able to tell you. If one was/is available, you can purchase it from them, or shop around for a better price. Concerning what happened to your engine cover? That is impossible for us to ascertain now. You state you purchased your 2012 Fusion Sport new and it had an engine cover, but it certainly seems the 20210-2012 Fusion Sport did not come from the factory with one. So that is certainly a mystery. In this particular case, I would consider it good luck that they have offered to pay for a new one a year after your vehicle was last in for service with them. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi John. You are very welcome. Happy to hear things worked out and your 5 year/50,000 mile Powertrain Warranty was honored. Concerning the new engine only being warrantied for the remainder of the original 5 years/60,000 miles Powertrain Warranty, as opposed to having a new 60,000 mile warranty: Unfortunately, that is the way the warranty works with virtually all manufacturers. Getting warranty work does not start a new 5 year and/or 60,000 mile warranty. We only get the remainder of the original warranty. You can check your Owner Warranty guide for confirmation. That goes for all parts/components/warranty work. While it never hurts to ask and perhaps push a little, that is the rule. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Roxas. Just as an FYI: Unless you specifically ask them to check the transmission operation, a "full service", oil change, or even "The Works" package does not usually include carefully checking the operation of the transmission. At best, they will check the transmission fluid level. And even that can be doubtful (according to the thoroughness of the Tech), since in many Fusion models, the airbox must be removed to do so. If it were my vehicle and this issue was that noticeable, I would have it specifically checked for transmission issues by your Ford Dealer as soon as possible, before it does get worse. Keep us updated and good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Hi Roxas. Your 2020 Fusion has a 5 year/60,00 mile Powertrain Warranty, so my advice would be to call and schedule another service appointment with your Ford Dealer. When you bring it in, ask the Service Advisor to take a ride with yo,u so you can physically demonstrate the issue to them, instead of leaving it up to them to drive it in the same way you do to reproduce the issue. This can help avoid the dreaded "Could not duplicate the customer concern" diagnosis. Also, you stated you "... just got this thing checked out by a dealer...". What did they do and what did they tell you? Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Dave. Are you referring to the horn honk/beep which occurs when you press the lock button on the keyfob in order to lock the vehicle, which also enables the perimeter alarm system? If yes, pressing the lock button on the keyfob once will lock the vehicle and set the alarm without a horn honk/beep. Pressing the lock button on the keyfob twice honks the horn/beeps. So just press the lock button once. Or alternately, the horn beep can be disabled using FORScan software, an OBDII connection and laptop computer. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi TJArigone. Blind Internet diagnosis is difficult at best. If you are following the reset instructions properly, then there may be an issue with the reset buttons/module, the itself, or deeper in the electronics. In a situation like this, my next recommendation would be to have someone else read the instructions and try to reset the seat. Sometimes a fresh set of eyes will see something that was missed before. If that does not work, then the likely problem is an issue in the system, which will probably take a shop/tech you tryst to hunt down. I am sure others will jump in if they have more advice. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi TJArigoni. What are the instructions you are using to set the memory seat settings? Are you following the Owners Manual instructions for setting the memory seat settings...or some other instructions from another source? Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Art. With regard to both of your points...How true...how true! You are 100% correct. ? That is why at this point it would be best (in my opinion) for us all to wait for the OP to hopefully come back and let us know if there was any resolution, whether it be replacing the fob battery, the car battery, or some other fix. Good luck! ?

Hi Allen. As far as "It doesn’t have to be that somebody else took the key out"...and describing how my MKZ operates when the fob is removed, that was only stated in order to address the particular situation which Waldo mentioned. ? So I am not saying Waldo is wrong. I'm only a bit more hesitant to discount other possibilities. A major issue (my opinion of course) is far too many owners do not even bother to even crack open the Owners Manual, and thus have absolutely no understanding of the complexity of their vehicles, how to operate all the various features, and what the messages mean. And I am not referring to the OP, only vehicle owners in general. Hopefully the OP will post back with whatever the solution was, and this enduring mystery of life will be solved. ? Good luck guys! ?

Hi Waldo. Long time no see! I would agree that there is certainly no harm in replacing the fob battery/batteries (although it is only a ~3 year old vehicle and the batteries usually do not fail anywhere near that quickly, but it is possible). However, until the OP states that their situation fits a similar situation to the rather precise one you describe (one key held by a person who jumped out of the car), a failing 12v battery is still a very real possibility and even the most likely. In addition, and at least in my 2018 MKZ, and using your description: If my wife jumps out of the vehicle with the only keyfob, even if I restarted my vehicle in that time window, the vehicle can not be shifted out of park. So getting a warning to restart will not help a fobless person from being stuck at the airport. If the OP comes back and states that was/is the situation or not, and changing the fob battery helped or not, then we will know. However, as I stated, my MKZ can not be shifted out of park without a keyfob present in the vehicle. So that grace period is worthless. Perhaps the 2020's are different. Always a possibility. Nice to see you again and good luck Waldo. ?

Hi mozz. Really, again? A bit cranky today? ? Try rereading. I stated a simple battery meter test is no longer an accurate predictor of battery efficiency. And it is not. A full battery load test needs to be performed. You then state the same thing by stating "an old load tester with a meter will work just fine." So you stated the exact same thing, except threw in the adjective "old" to describe the load tester. Do I really need to add the word "alone" to what I stated in order for you to understand?. Okay..."Do not use an old fashioned battery meter test alone. Have the battery fully and properly load tested." For a fuller explanation, see your other post about this, and why I will continue to answer these types of questions in the same manner, when discussing having batteries properly tested. Hope you have a better day tomorrow. ? Good luck. ?

Hi mozz. It means exactly as stated. A simple "Old fashioned battery meter test" alone no longer offers an accurate representation of battery efficiency in modern vehicles. This is due to the reasons already stated previously. Or to use your terms, battery voltage alone, while not under load, no longer gives an accurate representation of battery efficiency. And even your example of "...A load tester puts a load on the battery and while it does that you read the meter..." bears out the information previously stated. A battery meter test alone does not offer an accurate representation of battery efficiency in a modern vehicle. This is one of the reasons so many owners go to AutoZone etc. and are told their battery is fine. Because most of those types of shops, many less sophisticated independent repair shops, and many less up-to-date shade tree mechanics simply slap a battery meter onto a battery, test it while not under load, and state the battery test shows the battery is good, when it is not. Then the vehicle owner comes back here or on other forums and says the battery was tested and they were told "It is good". Therefore, that is why the explanation about how an "old fashioned battery meter test" alone is no longer an accurate battery test needs to be explained. So I explain it in order to help those learning about their vehicles to hopefully understand why they need to get a full, professionally administered load test, not simply an old fashioned battery meter test. Unless of course they can perform a full battery load test themselves. Pretty self-explanatory. And by the way, the Internet is a very big place. So me telling people with possible battery issues to have their battery load tested, not a simple battery meter test, would not "drum up money"...even if I did "work at a dealer or repair shop". ? Now you can help everyone and "...write up a article on how to clean your battery terminals on a regular basis and you won't have 95% of these problems.". ? Good luck. ?

Hi John and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. We would need much more information to even be able to guess. First...Do you mean "Power Driver's seat and Power Windows"? If yes, is it only the driver seat or both? And which power windows? Are no power windows working? From any switch, or just the driver's switches. How long have you owned the vehicle? Did everything stop working recently or did you just purchase the vehicle and these features were not working when you purchased it...etc. etc.? Essentially, it could be fuse/fuses, a switch/switches, another component/module etc. etc. Post back with more information and one of our tech members may be able to give you some guidance. But in the end, without the necessary diagnostic tools and knowledge, it will probably take a good shop/tech to determine the cause. Otherwise you can wind up just throwing parts at the problem. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Roxas. If your vehicle is starting normally, and all other IKT/keyfob functions are operating correctly, then it is unlikely to be a problem with the IKT keyfob/remote battery. The warnings you are getting are usually due to one of two reasons. The first would be that your vehicle's 12v battery is failing. Therefore, your vehicle BMS (Battery Management System) is warning you that it is shutting down battery power in order to save enough battery charge for future starting. The other reason? If you have been sitting in the vehicle for ~10 minutes with the engine off and ignition on, or with accessory power on. Again, the BMS will shut down battery power in order to avoid a dead battery. In your case, since you are getting the warning almost immediately after turning off the vehicle, I would recommend having the battery properly load tested. At least that is my blind, Internet diagnosis. ?? Do you have the Owners Manual hard copy for your 2020 Fusion? If yes, this information is explained in it. If not, you can download the PDF version here: https://www.fleet.ford.com/parts-service/resources/owner-manuals/ And out of curiosity....How long have you owned your 2020 Fusion and when did you first notice this issue? Knowing that information may be helpful in determining the actual cause. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Roxas. Yes, the most likely culprit is a failing battery. Have it properly load tested and replace if necessary. Do not use an old fashioned battery meter test. They are no longer accurate for batteries installed in modern vehicles. The Ford Owners website usually has coupons available for a free battery test. Most individual Dealer websites also carry the same coupon. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi piratepress. Going by your description of things, the most likely culprit is the battery. The number of miles on the vehicle are essentially irrelevant. How old is the battery? Have the battery tested. A full, professional load test, not an old fashioned battery meter test. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi TomZ. What andyross and alcohenusa stated. The first step would be to replace the battery. As you all have stated, the battery is ~7 years old, and may have sat for nearly a year before you purchased your 2017 model year Fusion in March of 2018. It is likely a new battery will fix the issue. If not, then a deeper diagnosis may be necessary. But a new battery will probably do the trick. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Trela. A leak from the transmission itself? Generally speaking? No. Your 2018 Fusion has a 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty. Are you still within the warranty period? And out of curiosity, was the damage in the front or rear? And what "Suspension pieces' were damaged? Did you get a second opinion? Also, depending on the extent and area of damage, bent wheels can sometimes be straightened for far less than a new wheel. Have you checked on that? Google "Wheel repair shops near me" and check with a few of the available shops in your area. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Crazy Pitbull Lady and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. Blind Internet diagnosis is difficult at best, and even more difficult when discussing Hybrid vehicles. Since you already changed the 12V battery, you will probably need to have your vehicle issue diagnosed by a Ford Dealership, or a good independent shop that works with Hybrid vehicles. I am sure one of our tech members will jump in to help if they have more insight into this issue. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi 18SE25 and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. No, neither tire will be sized properly. The 225/45-17's will be too small in diameter. The 245/65-17's will be far too large in diameter and likely would rub. You can use the tire size calculator to find a proper fit: https://tiresize.com/calculator/ Click on the "Tire Comparison" tab, then input your current tire size and any tier size you are contemplating to get comparative sizing information. Also, since you state "I am very tire illiterate...", I would recommend you get the assistance and advice of a good tire shop before purchasing any tires. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Bop. If you don't have any luck here, you can try stopping by/calling the Salvage Yards in your area, Carparts.com, and/or Detroit Wheel and Tire: https://www.detroitwheelandtire.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy-rcxvfW_gIVxfvjBx17ywrHEAAYASAAEgK1QvD_BwE Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Lewie. It all depends on what type of part is being discussed. In the case of "fender flares", a universal fit is not a good idea, since the fender openings, dimensions, bulge etc are different in every vehicle. A good analogy would be a universal, one size fits all pair of pants (or shoes etc). Not a good idea. However, if you decide to try it, post back and let everyone know how it works out. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Lewie. There is not really much out there as far as dedicated Fusion kits, since it is a ~12+ year old body style which is no longer produced. As far as the kit you linked to? My opinion...It states it is "...For Ford Fusion UNIVERSAL Fender Flares Extra Wide Body Wheel Arch 4PCS". And it shows another vehicle (an Infiniti coupe) in the photo. That ll adds up to meaning it is not made for the Fusion alone. It is a generic set of fender flares which are not made for a select Fusion fitment. So I would steer well clear of any "UNIVERSAL" kit which does not even show the correct photo representation. Again, my opinion. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Jchristman92. Did you install the transmission yourself, or did you have a shop do it? If it was a shop, I would take it back and have them diagnose and correct the issue. If you did it yourself, check the trans fluid level, see if there were any TCM updates available which you can apply, etc. Hopefully one of our tech members may be able to jump in to help. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi JohnLongoria. You may want to take out your Owners Manual and brush up on the Scheduled Maintenance Chart so you are not depending on the Service Manager or any other Dealership employee for your Scheduled Maintenance information. If you do not have your hard copy, you can download the PDF version here: https://www.fleet.ford.com/parts-service/resources/owner-manuals/ For example, the Fusion Hybrid recommended OCI (Oil Change Interval) for "Normal Service" is 1 year/10,000 miles (whichever comes first). Of course, we can change our oil sooner than that if we wish, but do not have to, unless our driving environment fits one of the Special Operating Conditions/stricter criteria, which your description does not seem to fit. If you have all your work invoices showing proper service in a timely manner, you should have no further issues with having the engine problem covered by the dealership/Ford under warranty. If you do have further pushback, contact Ford Customer Relations. Keep us updated and good luck.