ctrcbob

I am thinking of buying a 2010 SHO with GPS Navi Screen in the dash. (I guess this includes Sync). Salespeople will always tell you anything, to get you to buy, so I will ask here to get the correct answers. 1. Does the Dash Navi unit use a "Hard Drive" like my Genesis (map udates only through a dealer to the hard drive) , or a "Replaceable Disc" like my MKZ (map updates through a new disc, like the one I purchased from NavTeq) ? If it uses a replaceable disc, does it load right in the dash CD slot? If Hard Drive, does Ford had later updates as SHO was manufactured in Sept of 09 and would like the latest updates. (If hard drive, I plan on having dealer do update before I take delivery). 2. Can I still use the Navi (touch screen) even though I have no interest in using the Sync portion of the unit. (Program addresses and to set to destination). That is, I want to use the Navi, the phone, etc, but without using a Smart Phone. My dumb phone has BlueTooth, and I want to be able to make and receive phone calls, but don't want or have the need to do the other things that Sync offers if I had a Smart Phone. Just phone calls and navigation to set destinations. (I plan of having dealer pair my phone to car before I take delivery - I use a Motorola SLVR L9 which works perfect in my Genesis bluetooth). 3. Does the touch screen surface "wear out" like the touch screen surface has done on my MKZ in the most used spots. (My Genesis does not use a touch screen). BTW, friend of mine has a 2011 Mustang GT with Sync, but the Sync WITHOUT the Navi Screen. I must have the one with Navi Screen. Thanks for any information you can give. I've looked at a couple SHO's, but not equiped the way I want, but tomorrow I will drive 130 miles to look at a 2010 with 14K miles that is equiped just the way I want, with a very reasonable price. If the ride is better than the "nervous" (hard/stiff) ride of my Genesis, and at least as good as my Continental and/or MKZ AWD, I'll buy it.

Driving down US-441 in Central Florida today, and what do I see but a car carrier loaded with seven strange looking cars. Got up close, and the first thing I noticed was they all had Michigan Manufacturer Plates. Next was the strange paint jobs and the decal (or sign) on the rear of each car that said "Focus Rally America". (Look it up in Google). These were all 4 door hatch (or 5 door) cars. Got up very close and they all were "Focus Titanium". Went to Google and looked up "Ford Focus Titanium" and it says that the Ford Focus Titanium will be introduced sometime in 2011 as 2012 models. Don't know where these cars were headed, but they were all painted like racing or rally cars.

I take exception to the above. My wife and I both love the Continental. We had two 1998's and when Lincoln stopped production (and name) of the Continental, we went out and bought one of the last 2002's. We still love it. Just took a 5300 mile trip out to the West Coast with it. Now has only 85000 miles on the clock. Very long and low, compared to my other cars, and most other new cars on the road. If Lincoln made this car again, but with an updated interior, including the GPS, and perhaps a slightly updated exterior, I would be first in line to buy one. Most people who mention the Continental, think of the Town Car, because they look very much alike. The 95-97, and 98-02 Continental, although looking very much like a Town Car, are a very different (superior) car. Much superior to my MKZ. As for changing the "MK" names, they should have done this a long time ago. What was wrong with the name Zephyr, before they changed the name to MKZ. Madness.

I checked out an MKZ Hybrid (MKZH?) at my local dealer last week. I was impressed. I may go back in a couple weeks to see what kind of a deal I can do? When I got my 07 MKZ, I had an "X" Plan PIN which I got from Ford, however Ford has changed their method of giving the PIN, and even though their website shows my former employer (I retired from that company) still is an authorized supplier, I had problems getting through to the company as they have downsized so much, when I try to call their Personnel Department, (or whatever it is now called), I get someone in India who after checking and waiting for a couple days, got a call back saying that they are no longer a Ford supplier, even though the company is still listed as a Ford supplier or partner. The salesperson I spoke with told me that he has "connections" and he would get me a PIN number for the "D" Plan. Not sure if I'd save more with the "X" or "D" Plan. I'm in no hurry as I'm taking a long vacation in January, and I may be able to buy once I return.

Or it could use a "hard drive" system (like my Genesis Tech and I understand the new Buick) that is a nightmare to update. With the hard drive update, you don't own the disc. The dealer buys the disc from the manufacturer, then charges you "beaucoup bucks" (aprox $250) and it takes four to six hours to update the harddrive. My 07 MKZ uses the simple DVD system, Purchase for $199, remove the old disc and insert new disc. Simple. The only thing I don't like about the MKZ screen is that being a touch screen, some areas are worn out from touching, plus the finger prints always make it look dirty. Only good thing on the Genesis Tech is that I never have to touch the screen. Always clean. (but what a pain in the "butt")

Reading your answers, I guess my Motorola SLVR L9 (AT&T) will work fine with the Fusion Sync. I'm not going to mention to my buddy that his transmit sucks, with his Mustang Sync and his HTC HD2 (T-Mobil) because he is the type of person who thinks he always has the best, and all others don't equal what he has. (This goes for everything, not just his car or phone). I want to stay friendly with him because he knows computers, and he converted about 50 CD's that I play in the car to 6 MP3CD's that I can play in the MKZ or the Geneisi. I may want him to make more MP3CD's for me, so I'm not about to tell him that his sound quality on transmit sucks.

Question for you guys with Bluetooth cell phones and Sync. I have a very good friend with a 2011 Mustang who uses his Bluetooth HTC HD2 Cell phone from his car. This is the top phone using T-Mobil. Whenever he phones me, it sounds terrible. Sounds great when just using the cell phone, but when calling from his car, it really sucks. My Genesis Bluetooth sounds great (to those I phone) when using my Motorola SLVR-L9. Have any of you been told that the quality of the sound when using your Bluetooth (Sync) in your cars sucks? Thinking of getting a Fusion (or MKZ) Hybrid.

Seeing as how this thread is about MPG, and yes, if and when I get a Hybrid, it will be a Fusion, not a Prius, I want to tell about my best friends Prius out in Roswell NM. Pat picked up his 2009 Generation II Prius in January 2009. (He won it at the "Billy the Kid Casino" in Ruidoso. Twelve months later, when I spent a few weeks with him last December, I got tired of him saying how he was getting xxx mpg. I told him that the figures he was quoting were what he was getting at that very moment, and it was not an average. I asked him how to get the reading for the avg. He did not know. Never went off the screen that shows where the power is coming from. OK, I started to touch various things on his touch screen. The bottom left icon on his screen brought me to the screen that shows the avg mpg since it had last been reset. Car had over 25000 miles on it by then, and he had never reset the mpg. Did not even know it could be done and did not know that there were more screens than the one he always looked at. From January thru December 2009, over 25000 miles, his average was 49.5 mpg. Yes, 49.5 mpg. I was impressed. Does not mean I would buy a Prius, as I like the Fusion better, but 49.5 mpg aint nothing to sneeze at.

What is your company that initiated the new cell phone security, cell phone to Sync? Just wondering if it is my company (AT&T). In my case, I don't have a "smart phone". What I use is a Motorola L9, which I purchased "unlocked", and all I had to do was to remove the SIM Card from my V-400 and install it in my L9. No bluetooth problems.

This is nice to know, if it is true that it is as easy to update the hard drive unit as it is the DVD versions. My Genesis has the Hard Drive system, and although it functions great, in order to update it, the whole hard drive (I.E. everything other than and including the Navi) must also be updated, using three seperate discs, that the dealer keeps, and it takes three hours to do the update. Crazy. OK, you guys gave me good information. I may consider buying a Fusion with only the Sync and without the Navi GPS Screen, as that car will probably not be taking many long trips, like the two or three a year I do with my Genesis. (The MKZ has not been on a long trip in over two years and the Continental goes on one a year). Not sure if I'll trade the Continental or the MKZ.

Need some info before I visit dealer sales department. With all this talk about Sync, and after taking a ride in a friends 2011 Mustang, and after reading about Sync in syncmyride, I'm still a little confused. 1. Can I get a Navi - GPS screen in a Fusion (or any Ford)? My friend, and the syncmyride shows only turn by turn spoken instructions, with no map screen. 2. If a Navi GPS screen is available, can I get it without the Sync? (All the stuff on Sync, I neither need or want, except for Navi, but if I have to have it to get a Navi GPS screen, I guess I'd get it and never use it) . All I really want is either a DVD type Navi/GPS unit with a screen, or a Hard Drive Navi/GPS unit with screen. (DVD type like in my MKZ is easy to update, Hard Drive unit is much more difficult and complicated to update). I'm asking here because I don't want to listen to the stuff a dealer salesperson will try to tell me.

I agree. Buy from dealer stock. I've been burned ordering in the past, and will not do so again. Also, if you order, the dealer has your deposit, and you are not going to "walk away" if you find something you don't like about the ordered car.

Because you are active duty military has nothing to do with not paying the NY State Tax. When buying a car in NY, and you are going to register it in another state (such as WA), all you have to do is get an "In-Transit Permit" in NY. This allows you to not pay the NY Tax, as long as you get the car out of NY within 30 days. If your NY dealer does not know anything about the In-Transit Permit, go to the NY-DMV and get it yourself. It is just a paper tag that you use to drive the car out of NYS.

Rustproofing companies always state that they will fix rust through (holes) or give you your money back, and they will decide which. They do not cover surface rust. They warranty this for xx number of years. Years ago, my boss and I got to joking about how we could make some money. What we came up with was we would take in cars for rustproofing, wash the underside of the car, and do nothing else. Just let it sit for a day and collect the money. Give the standard warranty for xx months, covering rust through or your money back. Next we would put the money in an interest bearing account. (back when accounts paid high interest). We figured that most people would either sell/trade their car, or have an accident, or get rid of it before the warranty period was up. If anyone did make a claim with rust through, we would just give them their money back, not fix the car, and keep the interest. Sounded good to us. (but we never did it). Also, new car warranties normally cover rust through for seven years already. Why pay for additional coverage that you already have.

Slightly off subject: Hey Robert, I was just in your area (Saratoga) a couple days ago. Thursday in Corinth and friday in Balston Lake. Weather was perfect but the white stuff falling from the Cotton Wood Trees was killing me. I see that gas is 10 to 20 cents less than in the Rochester.

bbf2530, Always a pleasure to read a post from someone who knows what they are talking about. I've posted the following before, but will post it again. My 07 MKZ with the AW6F transmission had a problem with its upshifting from 4th to 5th. Sometimes would not upshift. Took it to my L/M Dealer and their method of reflashing the ECU/TCU was to plug in a laptop computer, allow the car to sit and idle for an hour while the laptop did its thing. When finished, I still had the problem. Then one day, I got to talking with the Service Manager of my local Ford Dealership, who also happens to be the best Fort Technician I know, and asked him if he could do something with the upshift problem. He said sure. Even though he was the Service Manager, not the tech, he went and got him the Laptop,sat in the car, plugged it in, then he followed the laptops instructions. Went something like this. 1. Tap tap tap in laptop. 2. Switched key on, tap tap tap. 3. Key off, tap tap tap. 4. Key on, tap tap tap. 5. Start car, tap tap tap. 6. Shut car off Said "OK, all fixed". took all of five minutes. He was correct. Never hat the upshift problem again. Although he is now at another dealership, I keep in contact with him and often ask for his advice. Like I said, he is the best Ford (Certified) Technician I know.

In years past, I used to order cars, but no more. I got "screwed" twice on an ordered car (see below). Now, I only buy from stock. If I can't find the car I want in stock, I don't buy. 1. Ordered a car and when it came, it did not have the "standard equipment" that all the brocures said came with the car. The manufacturer has an out because brocures always say words to the effect that production changes can be made at any time. (If I refuse the car, the dealer keeps my deposit). 2. Ordered a car and when it came it, there were two "imperfections" or defects in the interior. Dealer says that they will take care of it under warranty, so I take the car. (If I refuse the car, the dealer keeps my deposit). Dealer never could fix either of the imperfections. I did a fix myself on one of the problems, not a great fix, but something I could live with, and the other imperfection just stayed that way. I've never ordered a car since, and never will. I only buy out of stock, look the car over carefully, important to drive it first, never buy sight unseen as that is what you are doing when you order a car, or have a dealer get a car from another dealer. Dealer has your money and knows you are not going to refuse the car because of the deposit you left with them. (Something I just thought of - what happens to your deposit if the dealer you ordered from goes out of business, which happens often these days????)

The Trunk Organizers in that site are way overpriced. I went to my local Ford Dealer and got the Cargo Organizers designed for the Fusion. Large Cargo Organizer. Part number AE5Z-78115A00-A (Size 39" long, 12" wide, 12" high) Price $92.00 Cooler Bag. Part number AE5Z-19H484-A (Size 15" long, 12" wide, 12" high) Price $28.75 The Large Cargo Organizer has four compartments. The Cooler Bag fits perfect in the right most compartment. The above will fit the Fusion perfect. They are made from soft material, not the hard material of the POS I got for my MKZ. They also have a smaller organizer. Because I do not have a FFH, I don't know if the large organizer above will fit the FFH. Small Cargo Organizer. Part number AE5Z-78115A009-B To see what they look like, get a 2010 Fusion Brocure and the pictures are on the inside of the last page. I LOVE THIS ORGANIZER. Have it in my Genesis. The MKZ has that POS plastic thing that is next to usless.

PTU sends power to the rear wheels in addition to the front wheels. PTU sits forward of the driveshaft in centerline of car.

Perhaps no "freeways" or "interstates" but you do have "The Ruby" next door to "Corner Gas" in Beatiful Downtown "Dog River". (Loved that show)

Not hijacking thread!!! My son went through that prototype back around 1981 or 82. Was then assigned to the Andrew Jackson SSBN 619. (I'd still rather be a CT ) Small World indeed.

Off Subject. I see you have a Saratoga location. Are you stationed at the Navy Nuclear Training Facility? I will be visiting friends in Ballston and in Corinth in June. May even hit Americade in Lake George in July.

1. Oil leak. Most likely from the Power Transfer Unit. They Leak. Mine leaks. Dealers keep "fixing it" but still leaks. When it runs out of oil, so be it. Time to trade. (I think there is a TSB out on it, but I now ignore it). 2. Warped Rotors. Many people will tell you that they warp because you go through puddles of water and the rotors get wet when hot. Thats not what I believe. What really happens is that when you come to a fast (hard) stop, the rotors get hot. Then while you are still at a stop, you hold your brake on. The heat from the brake pads, "soak" into the rotors, causing that area of the rotor to get much hotter than the other areas of the rotor. Here is what I do. When I come to a fast stop, I either allow the car to creep forward just a bit, slowly, so the heat soak gets to the whole rotor, OR, I just put the car in neutral, and take my foot off the brake so there is no heat soak. 3. Re-program transmission. I had a problem with my transmission not shifting correctly. Took it to my L/M Dealer and their "Transmission Man" connected a laptop to the car, let the car run for an hour while the laptop loaded new information into the car. When I drove away, I could see that the "update" was not worth a darn. A few months later, I was talking with the Service Manager of my local Ford Dealer, and mentioned to him that I was having this problem. Asked if he could do something for me. He connected a laptop to the car and sat in the car with the laptop in his lap. Then; tap tap tap (in the laptop - taking instructions from laptop), switch the key on; tap tap tap, switch the key off. tap tap tap, switch the key on. tap tap tap, start car. tap tap tap, switch key off Says, ok, all fixed. AND HE WAS RIGHT. The transmission was now working correctly. Took all of five minutes.

OK, I got it. The way I see it is that the Atkinson Cycle engine is the same as an Otto Cycle engine except for very different valve timing, and perhaps an offset crankshaft. Google shows drawings of the Atkinson Cycle as also having an additional shaft to connect the regular connecting rod to an additional connecting rod which is then connected to an offset crankshaft.

Two questions. 1. What does Reconditioning do, and how does it work? 2. How does the Atkinson Cycle ICE on the Fusion work? Does the Crankshaft connect direct to the connecting rods, or is there an additional rod between the two?