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rejester

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  1. What has developed, for my early Spring surprise, is a rattle or faint clunkly feeling and sound from what appears to be front left. This only happens driving slow, like parking lots and so forth. What's odd is it only happens in 55-60 deg F or warmer weather. 70 F it's more pronounced. So right now in the morning when it's cooler I don't hear it, going home tonight when it might get to 70 F I will hear it. Not really a squeak and I ignorantly paid to have a left upper strut bushing/bearing replaced because the dealership though that was it. The dealership also re-lubed all the ball joints with grease, the needle trick since these don't have fittings. Big waste of money. I really think this is a stabilizer end-link that needs to be replaced, I'd do both of them obviously. Has anyone else gone through this? This looks easy enough to do with proper tools. I'm done getting screwed by the dealership.
  2. I have a replacement filter (NAPA has them for around $7.00, they are Wix brand). When I replace it I'll run the A/C with the filter out and the panel off and see if any airflow change when I switch from outside air to recirculate. I should be able to feel the airflow if I stick my hand in where the filter goes. I'll try to remember to post back my results. The main reason I'm curious is that I mainly run recirculate so if the filter is not being used then I really don't need to replace it as often.
  3. I apologize if this was covered, I can't seem to find it. I have a 2011 Fusion. Does the air pass through the filter when the system is on recirculate or only when it's pulling from outside?
  4. The purge valve is 9U5Z-9C915-H (for my car, a 2011 v6 3.0L but may work with others.)
  5. I just replaced my canister purge valve and it has fixed my CEL with code P0456. Here's some details for those coming across this and having the same issue. This is for a 2011 v6 3.0l Ford Fusion with 41300 miles. The purge valve is located on the engine, near the throttle body. It's a tight squeeze an you'll either need a small box wrench or a 1/4" shallow ratchet. The price paid for the part from a dealer is $52. I could have got it cheaper but I didn't want to wait. It takes under ~30 min to replace, if that.
  6. rejester

    Newbe

    I'll give it a go and report back when I'm done. Ignore my post from the other thread asking the same question. Thanks.
  7. Good catch, I read that so many times and I still missed 11-8-8 was only Hybrid. So anyone replace this themselves? I'm trying to get an idea of where to attack and what to start removing.
  8. rejester

    Newbe

    Where exactly? What has to be removed to get at it? Thanks.
  9. con_fusion, did this fix the problem for good? They did not replace the canister purge valve? My car also has P0456 code. 2011 3.0l Fusion with 45k miles. Thanks.
  10. For those who have replaced the purge valve. Where is it located and what do I have to remove to get at it? My 2011 3.0L Fusion is throwing a P0456 code and has the rough engine start right after re-fueling. I have 45K miles. Also, I see two part numbers and I'm not sure which is correct. For the canister purge valve TSB 11-8-8 says 9U5Z-9C915-BE and TSB 11-11-28 says 9U5Z-9C915-H. I'm thinking the "H" one is a newer revision of the valve since TSB 11-11-28 is newer Thanks in advance.
  11. Just a follow-up on the squeak. I needed an emission inspection so I decided to bring it to a dealership and have them do the inspection as well as figure out the squeak. Turned out to be lower ball joints on Right control arm. They said they were dry and re-lubed them. I should of had them do the left ones too. I asked them how they did it since they don't have any grease fittings. The tech said the rubber boots have a snap ring and can be pulled down and the ball joint lubed. I don't remember seeing that when I was spraying silicone but ok, as long as it's fixed now. He checked for play and the joints are still good according to him. I'm a little surprised it's the ball joints, the sound was more of a rubber against metal squeak noise. We'll see how long this lasts.
  12. Well, I tired the silicone spray on the tie rod ends and no luck there. These are sealed with no grease fittings so I kind of had my doubts. Seems to get worse in the cold weather and rain does not seem to stop the squeak. I'm up for more ideas!
  13. I have a 2011 3.0l Fusion with 37k miles. This past weekend I drove in a heavy downpour, even if thats relevant. The next day I noticed a squeaking noise when I turned the streering wheel at very slow speeds. It seems like the squeak is coming from the column but more toward the engine. The squeak is similar to the sound of metal rubbing against rubber or a better description would be if you're parked on very smooth(or sealed) concrete in a garage and turn the wheels and you can hear the rubber from the tries squeak. Unfortunately, I hear the squeak on rough road surfaces. The weather has been dry and in the 50's for 4 days and the squeak persists. I do not hear any knocks or clunk noises, the suspension seems to be fine. Any ideas? Thank you advance.
  14. I'm not so sure the TB has not been redesigned, they changed the part number for it. Through, it does look the same as the old one. I'm keeping my old one and might tear it apart and see if I can see re-lube and clean all the componenets inside the gear box/motor assy. In the event this happens again
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