cartmanea

The multi-disc players fail more (more mechanically complex) and everyone is going to iPods.

I bought the car with 78k, so they won't cover it for me. I've rebuilt engines, so I'm pretty sure I can install a ground strap, just would like the TSB number to take in so I get the right part.

I'd like to see some proof of that... I know if you change it every 2k the additives are too high, but 5k is not too soon. Considering I do about 2/3 of my miles in short trips to work where it barely gets warmed up, I consider this severe service requiring the shorter interval. The oil in my Powerstroke gets changed every 4k and my '79 F250 with a 400 never goes over 3k.

Can somebody post the TSB or email it to me? Email is my username @gmail.com. I have a 2010 that is out of warranty (91k) so I'd rather not just take it in. Thanks!

Can somebody post the TSB or email it to me? Email is my username @gmail.com. I have a 2010 that is out of warranty (91k) so I'd rather not just take it in. Thanks!

Sounds like nobody there knows how to do updates... pathetic.

I change oil and filter at 5k, and actually did just 4k for the first three changes I owned the car. I was leaning towards rod bearing with the mileage, unknown maintenance history, and the long stroke, but who knows. I'll switch back to Motorcraft filters and try a different oil and see what happens.

You're the second person to ask that, other was on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum. I've been using Amsoil filters, but am switching back to Motorcraft after the next oil change. Shouldn't the anti-drain back valve be in the filter base and not in the filter though?

I have a 2010 Fusion with the 2.5L I-4 with 91k miles. The engine notoriously has a noisy valvetrain, and that is not what I am concerned about. I drove the car only twice in the last two weeks, both times startup was after a week of not running and temps were about 25F. Upon startup, I had a noticeable rod knock until the oil warmed up and circulated a bit. I know what a rod knock sounds like, I replaced rod bearings in my previous car (Dodge Intrepid) because it developed a knock at 150k miles. I'm running Amsoil XL 5w-20, same for about 4 oil changes now. Previous oil changes I was adding one bottle of ZDDP Maxx which quieted down the valve train and I never heard the rod knock on startup (granted it never sat a week before). From UOAs, the ZDDP greatly reduced my wear metal numbers from the previous changes without it. Could this additive have been masking the rod knock, or is it just because it sat a week and all the oil drained out? Should I go back to using the additive? Any other additives recommended? I've been thinking of trying Archoil. Also, with 91k, would it be advisable to switch to a 5w-30 instead of the specified 5w-20? The car was previously a lease and fleet maintained, so I'm wondering if they had run 5-30 a lot and did some bearing damage. The engine was quieter (less valvetrain noise) before I did the first oil change to 5w-20, which is why I'm wondering if they ran something heavier. Thanks for any input!

I think they're intentionally vague with the bar graph, so I end up never using it. I would prefer a real instant mpg readout, but I think they've shown those are too distracting to some drivers. The bars are most likely a ratio of what's attainable at a given speed or operating condition, rather than a specific mpg number representation.

Instant MPG bar graph changes with the instant MPG, not average, hence the name.

Well, sorry, but what you're doing is unnecessarily hard on the vehicle. If you take a video of that to a service tech he's going to think, or maybe even say, "why the @#$% would you do that?" I understand that the hill descent and L have different functions, but L isn't labeled "Race", it stands for "Low". I also am very aware these transmissions have issues, but it's more a programming issue than a hardware issue. My 2010 shifts awesome after I reset the KAM by disconnecting the batteries, but over time it goes through the adaptive learning and gets crappy. Driving erratically like you describe seems to make it learn the poor shifts more quickly because you confuse the relearn procedure. Similarly, people with the selectable shift version notice the shifting degrades more quickly when they shift manually a lot vs. letting the transmission decide when to shift. Again, sorry if I hurt your feelings, but I'm just calling it how it is. They can't make a transmission of this size and complexity bulletproof, so why push the limits?

I have to ask, other than trying to abuse your transmission, why are you driving it like this? L is intended for times when you want to hold low gear, such as driving really slow downhill when you don't want it to shift up. The fact that is will shift into 2nd at WOT is just a safety precaution to make them idiot proof. I guess it's a good thing they do that...

I'll bet the dealership was blowing smoke about you having the latest revision. They probably didn't check using the latest software as the TSB specifies.

Same here, my 2010 shifts great after a KAM reset. Just a few times driving it though and it goes back to its old habits.